See many ghosts and goblins last night, friends?

C'mon now, don't tell us you're not superstitious.

Because we know better - thanks to your delightful response to our invitation to: Tell us your best superstitions. Wow! What a collection. We've got enough fables and foibles here for any witch's brew. So let's just put our best foot forward and awaaaay we go: * FEET: Best foot forward? That would be the right one, says Ann De Zoysa of Willowdale. "When you leave home in the morning, you must always put your right foot out the door first. Then good luck will prevail for the day."

Good health

But when you're dressing, the shoe's on the other foot, says our first $50 winner, the aptly-named Bonnie Barfoot of Sutton West. She warns: "you must dress your left foot first. That means donning sock and shoe and doing everything up before starting on the right foot.

"This is for good health, as the left foot is closer to the heart," explains Bonnie, who admits "it's very awkward with panty hose."

And you wouldn't believe all the shoe-perstitions we got about footwear.

"A man should never have sex with his shoes on or the woman will get pregnant."

That valuable tip comes from Patricia Sessions of Downsview, who also warns: "A child should never be allowed to walk around with only one shoe on, or the mother will die." And, as Patricia and many others told us: "Never put shoes on a table. That is sure death." Ditto for hats on the bed. * OMENS: Life is full of them, folks - good and bad.

Did you know it's very good luck to get "bombed" by a bird. Several of you assured us it is, including $50 winner Betty Campbell of Guelph. Betty has received several direct hits in her day, and friends have always assured her it's a real "blessing."

Two yolks

Last time she got nailed by a pigeon, "I happened to be wearing a hat. So I guess that's lucky. I think I'm also lucky that cows can't fly."

Find two yolks in your egg? That's practically a guarantee of riches and happiness, assures Christa Volling of Downsview.

Did a guest pour the tea at your home? Congratulations! You're going to have a baby, say Dorothy Caravaggie of Peterborough and several others.

Drop the dishcloth? Lori Morton of Newmarket says you'll have a visitor.

Drop a knife? That means a male visitor, says Gus Hendriks of Courtenay, B.C. Fork? Female visitor. Spoon? Child visitor.

Blister on your tongue? You told a lie, says Helen Mowat of Guelph.

Crossed knives on the table? Sure to mean a family fight, says Marg Boyle of London and many others.

Wash blankets in May? "You will wash one of the family away," warns Jean Antcliff of Huntsville. Leave wash on the line after midnight? You're gonna die, days Donald DeToro of Etobicoke.

ANTIDOTES: Of course, you don't have to take all this lying down.

There are many cures out there. Take warts, for instance. Brenda Lawless of Scarborough got rid of hers when "my mother rubbed a piece of raw steak on it, put a cross on it with a knife, and buried the steak."

Carmel Singh of Yonge St. used a similar sure-fire technique, except she fed the meat to the dog.

Sure cure

And Jane Ashwood of London got rid of a cyst on her wrist by heeding her father's tip to sidle up to a coffin in the funeral parlor and rub it on the dead person's hand.

Sure enough, "after a few days, all that was left was a small indent."

Want to cure whooping cough? No problem, says W. Summers of Schomberg. "Catch a mouse. Skin it. Fry it, and give it to your child to eat."

Want to have lots of friends? The secret of popularity, says E. Harrison of Somerville Ave., is "to go outside and bay at the full moon for one full minute."

Break a glass or piece of china? "When that happened in our house," recalls Margaret Wilson of Sundial Cres., "my mother would immediately break two jam jars - thus preventing the superstition that three pieces would be broken."

And woe to you if you happen to drop one glove. Because, explains Ellen Deane of Sherbourne St., "you must wait for someone else to pick it up."

And if no one comes along?

"You can get around this by dropping both gloves," says Ellen. "Then it's okay to pick them up yourself."

Make-safe measure

Good thinking, Ellen. Reminds us of the time our third $50 winner, Sheila Kirkey of Ajax, was warned by her mother: "Three times a bridesmaid, never a bride."

Well, Sheila had already been a bridesmaid twice, and her best friend was getting married.

"To this day," writes Sheila, "I don't think she quite understands why I turned her down. Not wanting to be an old maid, I felt I had no choice."

And, just to prove how well these things work, "I did marry a few years later."

Do you know we've hardly made a dent in this pile of terrific letters? And the mail is still flowing in from all over. Breaks my heart to see so much good stuff go unpublished. So, for the first time, we're carrying the same topic over for a third week.

Until then, we remind you there's often a very good reason for these crazy superstitions.

For instance, our final $50 winner, B.L. Ly of Mississauga, explains: "I come from Viet Nam, where it was considered very bad luck for the husband to walk in front of his wife."

Why?

"It was an ancient tradition. And it was justified by a modern reason. The road could be mined!"

See many ghosts and goblins last night, friends?

C'mon now, don't tell us you're not superstitious.

Because we know better - thanks to your delightful response to our invitation to: Tell us your best superstitions. Wow! What a collection. We've got enough fables and foibles here for any witch's brew. So let's just put our best foot forward and awaaaay we go: * FEET: Best foot forward? That would be the right one, says Ann De Zoysa of Willowdale. "When you leave home in the morning, you must always put your right foot out the door first. Then good luck will prevail for the day."

Good health

But when you're dressing, the shoe's on the other foot, says our first $50 winner, the aptly-named Bonnie Barfoot of Sutton West. She warns: "you must dress your left foot first. That means donning sock and shoe and doing everything up before starting on the right foot.

"This is for good health, as the left foot is closer to the heart," explains Bonnie, who admits "it's very awkward with panty hose."

And you wouldn't believe all the shoe-perstitions we got about footwear.

"A man should never have sex with his shoes on or the woman will get pregnant."

That valuable tip comes from Patricia Sessions of Downsview, who also warns: "A child should never be allowed to walk around with only one shoe on, or the mother will die." And, as Patricia and many others told us: "Never put shoes on a table. That is sure death." Ditto for hats on the bed. * OMENS: Life is full of them, folks - good and bad.

Did you know it's very good luck to get "bombed" by a bird. Several of you assured us it is, including $50 winner Betty Campbell of Guelph. Betty has received several direct hits in her day, and friends have always assured her it's a real "blessing."

Two yolks

Last time she got nailed by a pigeon, "I happened to be wearing a hat. So I guess that's lucky. I think I'm also lucky that cows can't fly."

Find two yolks in your egg? That's practically a guarantee of riches and happiness, assures Christa Volling of Downsview.

Did a guest pour the tea at your home? Congratulations! You're going to have a baby, say Dorothy Caravaggie of Peterborough and several others.

Drop the dishcloth? Lori Morton of Newmarket says you'll have a visitor.

Drop a knife? That means a male visitor, says Gus Hendriks of Courtenay, B.C. Fork? Female visitor. Spoon? Child visitor.

Blister on your tongue? You told a lie, says Helen Mowat of Guelph.

Crossed knives on the table? Sure to mean a family fight, says Marg Boyle of London and many others.

Wash blankets in May? "You will wash one of the family away," warns Jean Antcliff of Huntsville. Leave wash on the line after midnight? You're gonna die, days Donald DeToro of Etobicoke.

ANTIDOTES: Of course, you don't have to take all this lying down.

There are many cures out there. Take warts, for instance. Brenda Lawless of Scarborough got rid of hers when "my mother rubbed a piece of raw steak on it, put a cross on it with a knife, and buried the steak."

Carmel Singh of Yonge St. used a similar sure-fire technique, except she fed the meat to the dog.

Sure cure

And Jane Ashwood of London got rid of a cyst on her wrist by heeding her father's tip to sidle up to a coffin in the funeral parlor and rub it on the dead person's hand.

Sure enough, "after a few days, all that was left was a small indent."

Want to cure whooping cough? No problem, says W. Summers of Schomberg. "Catch a mouse. Skin it. Fry it, and give it to your child to eat."

Want to have lots of friends? The secret of popularity, says E. Harrison of Somerville Ave., is "to go outside and bay at the full moon for one full minute."

Break a glass or piece of china? "When that happened in our house," recalls Margaret Wilson of Sundial Cres., "my mother would immediately break two jam jars - thus preventing the superstition that three pieces would be broken."

And woe to you if you happen to drop one glove. Because, explains Ellen Deane of Sherbourne St., "you must wait for someone else to pick it up."

And if no one comes along?

"You can get around this by dropping both gloves," says Ellen. "Then it's okay to pick them up yourself."

Make-safe measure

Good thinking, Ellen. Reminds us of the time our third $50 winner, Sheila Kirkey of Ajax, was warned by her mother: "Three times a bridesmaid, never a bride."

Well, Sheila had already been a bridesmaid twice, and her best friend was getting married.

"To this day," writes Sheila, "I don't think she quite understands why I turned her down. Not wanting to be an old maid, I felt I had no choice."

And, just to prove how well these things work, "I did marry a few years later."

Do you know we've hardly made a dent in this pile of terrific letters? And the mail is still flowing in from all over. Breaks my heart to see so much good stuff go unpublished. So, for the first time, we're carrying the same topic over for a third week.

Until then, we remind you there's often a very good reason for these crazy superstitions.

For instance, our final $50 winner, B.L. Ly of Mississauga, explains: "I come from Viet Nam, where it was considered very bad luck for the husband to walk in front of his wife."

Why?

"It was an ancient tradition. And it was justified by a modern reason. The road could be mined!"

You can get answers to your questions about cars and solutions to your auto problems by writing to Jim Kenzie. Every Monday, Jim will attempt to answer readers' letters. If he cannot answer your query, he will find an expert who can.

Write to Jim Kenzie, Toronto Star, One Yonge St., Toronto, Ont., M5E 1E6. Please do not phone.

I am driving a Pontiac with 350 cubic inch V-8 engine. I'd like to change to a V-6 gasoline engine with the option of propane or natural gas capability. Could you tell me the advantages and disadvantages of these fuels? T. Stergiady, Toronto

First, unless you have a strong emotional attachment to your current car, I wouldn't recommend switching engines. The myriad of problems involved in an engine swap - including but not limited to connecting the radiator, heater, throttle cable, accessory drives, etc. - seldom make the cost of a transplant worthwhile. If your engine is worn, a straight swap with another 350 V-8, or purchase of another car, would be easier, and you can convert it to propane or natural gas.

Several other readers have also asked about propane, especially dual-fuel applications. Propane is, in many respects, an excellent motor fuel. It burns cleanly, its higher octane rating makes it amenable to higher compression ratios for improved performance - and per mile, it is cheaper than gasoline. Bear in mind, though, that this price advantage is subject to the whims of the government - and that's never a solid base upon which to make an econonic judgment.

With a dual-fuel installation, you cannot modify the engine to take advantage of propane's higher octane rating, and you have the complication and weight penalties of duplicated fuel storage and delivery systems.

Still, dual-fuel makes a lot of sense since propane distribution is still pretty spotty. Having gasoline on board reduces the risk of being stranded in Runny Nose Bend, Manitoba, for the weekend until the local propane distributor opens his shop on Monday morning.

A few car makers - Lada, Ford and Chrysler among them, have offered factory-installed propane systems in recent years. In Lada's case, it is a dual-fuel system. If you are converting an existing car, investigate the credentials of the installation shop carefully. Virtually all of the well-publicized propane fires have been attributed to faulty installation or improper refuelling practices. The Ontario government recently introduced tighter regulations on conversion shops and re-fuelling stations. Inherently, propane is probably safer than gasoline, but there is still a strong unfamiliarity factor.

A conversion will cost about $1,600. Various government grants are offered, including an Ontario sales tax rebate if the vehicle is new. Propane conversion can pay for itself in as little as one year, depending on the mileage you drive and the fuel consumption of your car (the higher each of these factors is, the faster the payback).

Natural gas is even less well-known as a transportation fuel in Canada despite its popularity as a home heating fuel. I am currently driving a natural gas-powered vehicle, and will report on it in the near future.

* * *

I would like your advice as to the auto magazine which would best satisfy my interest in vehicle performance reviews. I have looked at several magazines which attempt to cover all the facets of vehicular travel but found that they provide much more coverage than the average consumer needs on off-road vehicles and the like. Ideally, I would like to find a magazine which reviews new and used cars as well as accessories. D. Sinclair, Scarborough

I presume that the several you have looked at so far include Car and Driver, Road & Track and Motor Trend, the "Big Three" of the American "buff-books."

All three cover much the same ground, and emphasize the enjoyment of cars for their own sake, so there is some coverage of motor sport and exotic cars. But there is still plenty of meat in the consumer areas. Car and Driver is easily the most colorfully-written, Road & Track has traditionally been viewed as the most authoritative, although Car and Driver C is making inroads there as well.

No-one has been able to figure out a reason for Motor Trend yet, except that it makes piles of money for its publisher. I guess that's reason enough.

Consumers' Reports, put out by the U.S. Consumers' Union, projects the attitude that cars should be outlawed, but here's how to avoid getting killed by them. I find the writing style to be very dull - they never seem to be having much fun. Canadian Consumer is a Canadian alternative.

Producing a Canadian car magazine has always been a very tough row to hoe. Carmag, whose subtitle "For The Practical Motorist" shows that it had you in mind exactly, has had difficulty attracting the advertising support needed to become viable.

A fairly recent entry out of Montreal called World of Wheels is a glossy attractive quarterly publication, and is trying to give the kind of coverage you are looking for. Write them at P.O. Box 747, Pointe Claire, Quebec H9R 4S8, for subscription information.

No magazine that I'm aware of does specific tests of used vehicles, although many do "long-term" road tests which attempt to show how a vehicle performs over the long haul.

I'd suggest you try some combination of one of the buff books, one of the consumer books and maybe World of Wheels for a few months and see if that satisfies your need for information.

GRASSY NARROWS - GRASSY NARROWS - Andy Keewatin recalls the days when northern pike and walleye were so large and plentiful here they almost danced into his canoe.

"The young people don't know what it was like," the 68-year-old former fisherman said during an interview at his home on this reserve, north of Kenora. "The fishing used to be so good."

But Keewatin now collects a government pension and tells old angler's tales instead of fishing along the English-Wabigoon River that flows past his Ojibwa reserve, north of Kenora.

It was 15 years ago this month that the Ontario government banned all commercial fishing along the northwestern Ontario river and its many lakes, because of mercury pollution from a Reed Paper plant (owned by Great Lakes Forest Products since 1979) upstream at Dryden. It's estimated more than 20 tons of mercury were dumped into the English-Wabigoon between 1962 and 1970.

Sports fishermen flying into the many remote lodges that dot the northern river found "fish for fun" signs along the river banks in 1970 and ate canned meat at their shore lunches instead of fresh-fried trout.

Government experts said the fish showed "dangerously high" levels of mercury.

At Clay Lake, the first lake downstream from the plant, mercury concentrations in walleye were as high as 24 parts per million (ppm) in 1970. The officially safe level at which fish can be eaten in unlimited amounts, is 0.5 ppm.

Beyond limit

Native fishermen, whose families had been eating fish almost daily for most of their lives, also had high levels of mercury in their bodies. Some showed readings as high as 600 parts per billion of mercury in their blood, more than six times the lowest danger level.

A few fishing lodges closed, ending guide jobs for many Indians at Grassy Narrows and nearby Whitedog reserve, and most fishermen were out of a job for the first time in their lives.

"It makes me feel hopeless," Keewatin said. "It's been so long and we can't even eat the fish."

Many native guides and fishermen are still on welfare, waiting for compensation from the company and the provincial government, which is responsible for pollution control and natural resources.

While negotiations for a financial settlement continue, federal and provincial experts are searching for ways to clean up the river.

The province ordered the pulp and paper mill to reduce the mercury discharges and, by 1975, mercury wasn't used in plant processes.

Government officials who monitor water and air pollution levels in the area say less than 2.6 kilograms (5 pounds) of mercury now filters into the river in a year.

"Dramatic decline'

"There has been a dramatic decline" in mercury levels in fish taken from the English-Wabigoon, says John Ralston, manager of aquatic contaminants at the provincial environment ministry's water resources branch.

Government tests in 1983 showed the highest levels along the system were found in walleye at Clay Lake. Concentrations there averaged 2.5 ppm, with the highest recorded at 3.8 ppm.

Most fish at Clay Lake are still too contaminated to be eaten - the province sets 1.5 ppm as the maximum limit - but whitefish there and in neighboring lakes are considered safe.

The province publishes an annual "guide to eating Ontario sport fish" that details what type of fish, and how much, can be eaten during a year from lakes across the province. With the exception of whitefish, there are restrictions on eating walleye and pickerel at most lakes along the English-Wabigoon.

"The river is improving environmentally on its own, but it's debatable how quickly or far it (mercury levels) will go down," says Wally Vrooman, regional director for the provincial environment ministry in Thunder Bay.

The English-Wabigoon is a "very complicated" river system, where natural levels of mercury in fish are above the acceptable 0.5 ppm level, he said.

"You're in a dilemma. You get the river back to its . . . state (before the mercury dumping) and it's still too high."

Still too high

Government experts have spent more than a decade researching ways of cleaning up the river. A 500-page technical report issued last summer by the provincial and federal governments concluded that without, a cleanup, "mercury levels in fish are expected to remain unacceptably high for many years."

Dredging the river and dumping the contaminated sediment away from its banks would take several years and could cost as much as $20 million, Vrooman said.

Covering polluted sediment in the river bed with uncontaminated soil would cost about $2 million.

Vrooman, co-chairman of a group that represents eight federal and provincial departments studying cleanup methods, said a campaign could be announced this year. His committee expects to make recommendations next month to provincial Environment Minister Susan Fish and federal Environment Minister Suzanne Blais-Grenier.

"This thing has been going on for so many years, we feel we have to draw the curtain on it," Vrooman said.

Last of two parts.

Last of two parts.

An importer of canned meat products and his company, Matthew McAvan Enterprises Ltd., were convicted yesterday of bribing a meat inspector to get preferential treatment.

The company pleaded guilty to giving $7,440 in corrupt benefits to Frederick Strickland between April l, 1982, and Dec. 31, 1983. Matthew McAvan, 49, of Harbor Square, pleaded not guilty to the same charge but was convicted by District Court Judge Ted Wren, who will pass sentence on Aug. 6.

Prosecutor Damien Frost said McAvan had to have the products inspected before he could sell them and this was done by Strickland, at the time an inspector with the federal Department of Agriculture.

Strickland was paid to give McAvan's products priority in the inspection process, Wren was told. McAvan made cheques payable to Strickland's daughter, Sue Rand, and she passed the money to her father.

By Marilyn Dunlop Toronto Star

If you had to decide between spending $l million on a sophisticated scanner so that people in your community with brain tumors and strokes could be better diagnosed and treated or using the money to provide care for sick children, which would you select?

Assume your decision will mean some patients won't get medical care that might be life-saving.

Or what if you had to decide whether your dollars should be spent to make possible liver transplants for small children in Ontario or to create a heart transplant program in Toronto?

Hard choices. Yet today such decisions have become common.

"Hospital boards and district health councils have to make these difficult choices," says George Torrance, professor of management science at McMaster University, Hamilton.

Torrance says agonizing over the best use of health care dollars is a relatively new phenonemon.

"Before the 1960s there was so little could be done by medicine we had no problem affording it all. Now we cannot do everything for everyone. There would never be enough (financial) resources to do all the things that can be done for all people."

Torrance, dean of the faculty of business, is one of four specialists at McMaster pioneering research into cost-effectiveness of different kinds of medical care. They hold dual posts in both business and medical faculties. To many people their studies seem repugnant - putting a dollar value on human life.

But Torrance says that is not what the studies do. "Money is just a measuring rod," he says. It allows health planners to compare the consequences of spending money one way with spending it another.

The methods Torrance's group are developing "are not a decision-making meat grinder but are designed to help people make careful, intelligent choices," he says.

Torrance says comparisons must take into account the value of improved health to individual patients and to society. They must look at the number of lives saved and the quality of those lives.

"There are states worse than death," he adds. Torrance says the value of a given treatment can be plotted on a scale that takes into account quality of life.

A remedy that restores a patient to full health is scored as l and death as 0. In between are therapies, such as kidney dialysis, which saves lives but cannot make people with failing kidneys healthy. It scores as .59.

One of Torrance's first studies involved assessing the cost-effectiveness of the newborn intensive care unit at McMaster medical center.

Costs of health care over the life-time of the babies, he found, would be substantially higher than for normal birth-weight babies. The cost of each baby saved was also high. "In effect we purchased survival at a cost of $59,500. each for the heavier (premature) babies and at a cost of $102,500 for the lighter ones.

Every year of their lives, the heavier babies who had no defects would require an average of $2,900. worth of care more than full-term babies. If they were less than perfect it would cost $3,200. In the tiny group the annual costs for those without handicaps would be $9,300 and for the imperfect $22,400. "By every measure the neonatal ICU was more worthwhile for the heavier weight babies than the light-weight ones," he said.

The study, in 1983, enraged some doctors. One denounced it as unethical at the Ontario Medical Association annual meeting and urged the association to speak out against such studies, but the issue was not debated.

Torrance counters "Is it ethical to ignore the consequences of deploying rescoures in one way if that gives less health improvement to others? It is immoral to be wasteful and let health deteriorate," he says.

And, he adds, it costs just as much to keep one convicted murderer alive for a year as a patient on kidney dialysis.

Furthermore, the study made McMaster doctors keenly aware they needed to do better for the tiniest babies and the way to do that was to prevent them from being born so early.

They've zeroed in on research into prevention of premature births that may mean healthy lives for many babies in future.

How do you put a dollar value on human life? "We don't," says Torrance "What we do is show that program A will cost $20,000. per life saved and program B will cost $100,00. If a district health council has to priorize, it may help it decide which program to do first."

(District Health Councils, which have been established in all regions of the province, advise the health ministry on programs the region needs and which of those should have priority.)

Medical scientists too are learning to make cost comparisons. For example, Dr. Mark Henkelman of the University of Toronto who for two years has been leading research into a new scanner, a $1.5 million nuclear magnetic resonance imager at Princess Margaret Hospital, says studies must include additional costs generated by the imager as well as medical benefits.

"Physicians tend to want to avoid consideration of costs," he says. " But it is better for us to do it scientifically than have others make wild guesses. We are faced with hard choices in Ontario as in the rest of the world. We have to make those choices and they will be made either politically or on valid information."

Statistical lives, says Torrance, are quite a different matter emotionally than identified lives. " Once a particular life at risk is identified -a downed pilot, a particular child who will die without a liver transplant- society will go all out to save that life," he says.

It deludes us into thinking there is rescue for all when it is needed. But, says Torrance, health care is already being rationed. "Athough there is no intention to deceive, it is not being done openly. But it is happening." The unanswered question is whether it is causing the least harm to health and the least loss of life possible.

Toronto - Despite its Cumberland St. location, The Chicken Thief is far removed from the trendy high-priced restaurants of Yorkville. The menu consists of standard Mexican and chicken dishes, with an emphasis on chicken wings. On all-you-can-eat chicken wing night (Wednesday, Friday and Saturday after 5 p.m.), you can gorge yourself on three types of wings - barbecue, honey garlic and hot for $6.95.

Encouraged by the reasonable prices, my companion and I decided to get right into the Mexican mood by starting the evening with margarita cocktails ($2.70 each). They looked gloriously green and decadent but looks were deceiving in this case. The lime juice tasted artifical and the tequila didn't taste at all.

For an appetizer we ordered one of the four nacho dishes that range in price from $2.99 to $4.89. The bean nachos for $3.59 were good; a great plate of corn nachos covered with refried beans, melted cheese and hot peppers on the side. The guacamole for $3.89 was too heavily flavored with mayonnaise and didn't have enough avocado in it.

I ordered the dinner plate of eight chicken wings flavored with all three sauces ($4.39) and served with piping hot fries. I liked the barbecue flavor the best, the hot was a bit too hot for me and the honey garlic was too sweet. I found that what little meat there was on the wings was tough and dry. On a second visit, they were served the same way.

My companion had the burritos, two large soft flour tortillas folded around a chicken filling with refried beans and cheese for $6.99. He said they tasted fresh and authentic, "almost as good as in Mexico."

The $1.99 cheesecake was rich and cheesy. For each visit I made to the Chicken Thief, once for dinner and another time for lunch, each meal cost $33 including tax and tip. - by Trish Irvin

The Star's daily restaurant review

TABLE FOR TWO The Chicken Thief 12 Cumberland St. 920-9464 Chicken wings and Mexican food; wings, $3.29 to $8.49, Mexican entrees average $7; seats 80; open six days a week from 11.30 a.m. to 10 p.m., except Friday when it's open to midnight, closed Sunday; no wheelchair access; no smoking area; no reservations; Visa only.

TORONTO - That old North American standby, the meat pot pie, has a long history. Back in the days of the Roman Empire, these pastries were served at banquets, sometimes with live birds under the crust, which must have startled unwary guests.

In the 16th century, the English gentry revived the ancient custom of meat pies.

The settlers who came to North America took their pot pie recipes with them when they moved westward. By this century, chicken pot pies and meat variations have become as North American as corn on the cob.

The recipes usually called for inexpensive ingredients or leftovers and the pies were popular not only in the family dining room, but in moderate-priced restaurants.

Here's a recipe using leftover chicken. 2 lbs potatoes, peeled and diced 1 cup heavy cream 6 tbsp butter or margarine Freshly ground pepper Salt to taste Pinch ground nutmeg 1 cup chopped scallions, tender parts only

1/2 cup chopped celery 2 tbsp flour 1 cup chicken broth 3 cups cooked, chopped chicken

1/4 teaspoon thyme

4 eggs

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Grease 9-inch pie plate. In saucepan heat potatoes to boiling in enough salted water to cover. Reduce heat to low and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain and mash, adding 1/4 cup cream, 2 tablespoons butter, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, and nutmeg and salt to taste. Cover and set aside.

In large skillet over medium heat, melt remaining butter. Saut

scallions and celery 3 minutes. Whisk in flour and cook 3 minutes. Add broth and rest of cream and heat. Stir in chicken, thyme, salt and pepper to taste.

Spread chicken mixture on bottom of pie plate. Pipe 4 potato rings on top of pie mixture. Bake 15 minutes. Remove from oven and carefully break eggs into the rings. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, if desired, and return to oven another 15 minutes, or until eggs are set to desired doneness. Serves 4.

TORONTO - Regular customers recommend that you make a reservation if you want to dine at Rossini Dining Lounge because this Italian restaurant is usually crowded during supper hour.

My dinner companion and I have both had brief careers as restaurant managers, and we were impressed by the way the staff managed the service (with lineups of up to 20 customers at a time) as we were with the food.

I ordered the spaghetti with meat sauce ($5) and my partner had the rigatoni alla Rossini ($6.50), a tasty mix of meat, sausage and pasta noodles. Both were promptly served, good-sized portions with that zesty Italian flavor, accompanied by terrific garlic bread ($2) and a litre of the house red ($11.50).

Regular customers on both sides of us traded greetings and compliments with the solicitous staff. They run a friendly restaurant here.

Desserts range from $1.95 to $2.50; my partner had a blend of chocolate, vanilla and mint ice cream, while I had the chocolate fudge cake, a rich delight served in just the right portion after so filling a meal.

We were enjoying ourselves so much we decided to linger over our capuccino ($1.75) and brandy ($4) and fell into an animated conversation with diners beside us.

Prices at Rossini are reasonable, with full chicken dishes at $9.75, dinner specials at $14.95 and even frog's legs at $13.95. Wines range from $10.95 for Valpolicella Folonari to $26 for Amarone Recioto 1974. Domestic beer is $1.50 and imported $2.50.

Our dinner for two with wine and drinks came to $45.63 with tax. Rossini 1988 Avenue Rd. (2 blocks south of 401) 481-1188 Italian cuisine; seats 108; entrees $5 to $15; full licence; lunch from 11.30 a.m. until 3 p.m. Monday to Friday; dinner 4 p.m. to midnight Monday to Thursday, 4 p.m. to 1 p.m. Friday and Saturday; closed Sunday; no no-smoking area; easy access for handicapped, washrooms downstairs; reservations generally required; takes most credit cards.

TORONTO - Cooks are taking the challenge of outdoor eating seriously this year. Barbecue classes that help put a little sizzle into supper have never been so popular.

Faith Robinson, who runs a cooking school in Markham, says that all spaces in her five June classes have been booked since last December and there is a waiting list of hopefuls for last-minute cancellations.

Robinson has been operating her school at home in Markham for five years. Before that she taught cooking at evening classes for local boards of education. She learned to cook at home. She says that her father insisted that everyone in the family be able to cook a roast beef dinner and she managed to do it at age 12. Over the years she has taken several formal cooking courses, including a six-week session at La Varenne in France.

Robinson likes to use the full participation approach in classes at her school because she finds that students get more out of the sessions when they are directly involved in everything. Her classes are small, just nine students in each of the five barbecue classes.

Robinson says that student interest in using the barbecue for summer entertaining is way up from other years, so there should be lots of relaxed living and good eating for a lot of us this summer.

If you are one of the unlucky ones who hasn't managed to line up a barbecue cooking class, here are a few of Robinson's recipes to help you get the season off to a fine start. Cooking times given are for a gas barbecue. Marinated Shrimp Appetizer

A few shrimp from the grill go wonderfully with before-dinner vegetable relish trays on warm summer evenings. Watch the shrimp carefully, as overcooking can make them tough. Preparation time: 15 minutes Marinating time: 4 to 6 hours or overnight Cooking time: 3 to 5 minutes 2 lbs ( 1 kg) fresh or frozen large shrimp

1/2 cup vegetable oil

1/2 cup lime or lemon juice 3 tbsp dry white wine 1 tbsp chopped chives or tops of green onions 1 clove garlic, chopped 1 to 1 1/2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp dried dill weed

Hot pepper sauce

Thaw shrimp if frozen, shell and devein. Place in a shallow glass dish. Combine oil, lime juice, wine, chives, garlic, salt and dill weed. Season with several drops of hot pepper sauce. Pour over shrimp. Cover and refrigerate 4 to 6 hours or overnight. Occasionally spoon marinade over shrimp.

Remove shrimp at serving time; reserve marinade. Thread shrimp on skewers or place in a wire grill basket. (Soak wooden skewers in water first.) Grill 4 to 6 inches above hot coals until pink, about 3 to 5 minutes. Turn and brush often with warmed marinade. Serve on small wooden picks. Makes 30 appetizer, about 29 calories each. Stuffed Cornish Hens

A wild rice and sausage stuffing adds stylish substance to Cornish hens. Keep this recipe in mind if you need something extra nice for a summer dinner party. Preparation time: 35 minutes Cooking time: 30 minutes 4 1-lb (454g) Cornish hens, preferably deboned

1/2 cup wild rice 1 1/2 cups long-grain rice

1/2 lb (250g) sausage meat

1/4 cup raisins 2 tbsp butter 2 tbsp toasted slivered almonds

1/2 tsp ground sage Salt

1/4 cup melted butter 1 10-oz bottle sweet and sour sauce 1 cup chopped canned tomatoes 1 tsp soy sauce

1/2 lemon, thinly sliced

Soak wild rice in water for 30 minutes. Cook long-grain rice acccording to package directions or in boiling, salted water until tender. Half way throught cooking, add drained wild rice.

Brown sausage meat in a frying pan. Drain off any fat; add raisins, butter, almonds, sage, salt to taste and cooked drained rice. Stuff hens and tie. (Freeze or refrigerate any leftover stuffing or heat it separately on the barbecue.)

Brush hens lightly with melted butter. Set a foil pan on coals under hens to catch any melted fat. Place on grill 4 to 6 inches above medium-hot coals and cook 30 minutes or until tender. Turn so all sides brown evenly.

To make basting sauce, heat sweet and sour sauce, tomatoes, soy sauce and lemon slices. Baste hens with sauce the last 10 minutes of cooking. Serve hens with any remaining sauce. Makes 4 servings, about 695 calories each. Barbecue Bread

Freshly baked bread is a welcome addition to any outdoor meal and here is one that takes just 15 minutes to put together. Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 30 minutes 2 cups packaged biscuit mix 4 tbsp grated Parmesan cheese 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

cup milk Olive topping (recipe follows)

1/2 cup grated Cheddar cheese

Paprika

Combine biscuit mix, 2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese, parsley and milk. Spread dough evenly over a well-greased, heavy 12-inch frying pan. Spoon olive topping over dough; sprinkle with Cheddar and remaining Parmesan cheese. Sprinkle edges of dough with paprika. Place on warming grill of barbecue; about 10 to 12 inches above coals, lower hood. Grill over medium coals until dough is cooked, about 25 to 30 minutes. Makes 12 servings, about 135 calories each. Olive Topping

1/2 cup pimiento-stuffed green olives 2 tbsp butter, melted 2 tbsp sliced green onion with tops 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce

1/2 tsp garlic powder

1/2 tsp dried oregano, crushed

3 drops hot pepper sauce

Combine all ingredients. Spread over biscuit dough. Buttered Asparagus

Even vegetables can be cooked on the grill and that means no last-minute trips to the kitchen for the cook. Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 5 minutes 1 lb (454 g) fresh asparagus 3 tbsp butter

1 tbsp sherry

Wash asparagus (or any other fresh vegetable), trim off woody ends. Peel stalks. Place on a double thickness of foil; top with butter and sherry. Bring foil up over asparagus mixture; seal completely. Place packet on grill 4 to 6 inches above hot coals; cook 5 minutes. Serve with melted butter and sherry mixture from foil package. Makes 4 servings, about 66 calories each. Barbecued Pineapple

Ice cream is a great finish to any warm-weather meal when it's served with maple-glazed pineapple from the barbecue's rotisserie. Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 30 to 40 minutes 1 whole pineapple with leaves intact 20 whole cloves

1/2 cup maple or corn syrup 1 tbsp rum 1 tsp ground cinnamon Pinch grated nutmeg

Vanilla ice cream

Peel pineapple; leave top leaves intact. Remove eyes and insert whole cloves in openings. Run spit through centre of pineapple. Secure with holding forks; wrap leaves with foil. Place on rotisserie, rotate over medium coals 30 to 40 minutes or until tender, with hood down. Baste often with a mixture of maple syrup, rum, cinnamon and nutmeg. Remove from spit, slice lengthwise through pineaple and leaves; arrange on a platter. Cut crosswise into 1/2-inch slices. Serve with ice cream. Makes 6 servings, about 184 calories each with ice cream.

TORONTO - Crisp, lacy cookies are delicious with everything from a cup of tea to ice cream desserts. Isabella Middleton of Weston sent this recipe when she noticed a request from Mrs. Avery. Isabella Middleton's French Lace Cookies 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 cup finely chopped nuts

1/2 cup corn syrup

1/2 cup butter or margarine or shortening

cup packed brown sugar

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Blend flour and nuts. Bring corn syrup, butter and sugar to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly. Remove from heat. Gradually stir in flour and nuts. Drop by teaspoonfuls about 3 inches apart on to lightly greased baking sheets. Make only 8 or 9 cookies at a time. Bake 5 to 6 minutes. Cool 5 minutes before removing from baking sheet. Makes 4 dozen. Dorothy Goodhand's Frozen Spiced Crab Apples

A reader from Whitby sent this recipe after reading in the April 24 column that Mrs. D. Davidson wanted to pickle crab apples when they come into season this year. Goodhand has tried this recipe several times and says the apples are very nice. 24 small ripe crab apples

cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup honey or corn syrup 1 cup water 2 tbsp lemon juice 1 broken cinnamon stick 1 piece root ginger 6 whole cloves

Few dashes red food coloring

Wash and rub blossom end off apples. Prick apples in several places. Boil remaining ingredients 5 minutes in a frying pan. Add a layer of apples, cover and poach on low heat 8 to 10 minutes or until barely tender. Remove apples, add another layer. When all apples have been poached, strain syrup. Pack apples in small tub-style containers. Pour in syrup, leaving a 1/2-inch headspace; chill. Press crumbled waxed paper on top; freeze. Defrost 1 1/2 hours, serve as a cold meat garnish. Sugar-Coated Peanuts

We had just about given up on Helen Wilson's Jan. 16 request for a recipe called Beer Nuts when this one came along from Marion Kite of St. Catharines. Kite says she buys the raw shelled peanuts at a health food store and that they are delicious with this coating. 1 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup water

2 cups raw shelled peanuts, skins on

Dissolve sugar in water in a saucepan over medium heat. Add peanuts and cook, stirring often until they are completely sugar-coated and no syrup remains in the saucepan, about 30 minutes. Pour on to an ungreased baking sheet; separate peanuts with a fork. Bake in a preheated 300 degrees F oven for 30 minutes. Stir at 10 minute intervals. Makes 1 pound of candy.

If anyone has a special recipe for a ginger cake, Mrs. E. Bell of Toronto would appreciate a copy.

Ann Altpeter of Toronto wants to make a skewered, deep-fried veal and pork dish called City Chicken but doesn't have a recipe.

These recipes are not tested in The Star kitchen. Send requests and recipes to Recipe Exchange, Star Test Kitchen, Toronto Star, One Yonge St., Toronto M5E 1E6. We regret that requests cannot be taken over the phone and that letters cannot receive a personal reply.

TORONTO - Head for good buys on sweet green peppers and spicy sausages this week and give lunch or supper a lift with this hearty sandwich from the barbecue. Dad and the kids will love it served with tossed salad and something on special from the fruit counter for dessert.

The recipe is from Barbecued Ribs And Other Great Feeds (Random House, $15.95). Grilled Sausage And Peppers 2 medium green bell peppers 2 medium red bell peppers 1 medium onion 2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped Salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tbsp olive oil 1 1/2 lb (680 g) sweet or hot Italian sausage

2 long loaves Italian bread, split and toasted

Seed peppers and cut into strips or squares. (Use all green peppers if preferred.) Pile in centre of a large rectangle of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Peel and slice onion, place over peppers. Sprinkle with garlic, salt, pepper and oil. Fold foil over vegetables, allowing space for steam but sealing tightly with a double fold. Place at edges of grill near hot coals.

Grill 3 to 4-inch lengths of sausage over hot coals, browning on all sides. While you turn the meat, squirt any leaping flames with water to prevent burning. This will take about 15 to 18 minutes. When sausages are browned, unwrap vegetables. Place sausages over pepper mixture and seal packet again. Move to a hotter section of the grill and cook until sausages are cooked and peppers are tender, 10 to 15 minutes longer. Spoon peppers and sausages on to split and toasted bread. Cut in large sections. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

OTTAWA - OTTAWA (CP) - Health Minister Jake Epp says Canada is temporarily banning the sale and use of the antibiotic chloramphenicol in the treatment of food animals. A final decision will be made on it later this year. Epp says the ban was imposed because of the hardships Prairie hog producers are suffering. Five Western states have blocked the import of Canadian livestock because chlormaphenicol, which some Americans regard as a health hazard, had been used in Canada. Canadian officials say no detectable levels of the antibiotic have been found in tests of Canadian livestock and meat. Manitoba Premier Howard Pawley quotes Iowa Governor Terry Branstad as saying Manitoba hogs will be allowed back into the state. Canada's trade surplus with U.S. hits record

OTTAWA (CDJ) - Canada's trade surplus with the United States widened to a record $15.43 billion (U.S.) in 1984 from $11.6 billion in 1983, says a Statistics Canada reconciliation of U.S. and Canadian trade statistics. Last year was the ninth consecutive year that Canada's exports to the U.S. exceeded imports. Canadian exports to the U.S. last year rose 22.4 per cent to $67.08 billion from $54.79 billion the previous year. U.S. exports to Canada rose 19.8 per cent to $51.65 billion from $43.13 billion. Saskatchewan extends oil incentive program

WEYBURN, Sask. (CP) - Saskatchewan's oil royalty and tax incentive program, which Premier Grant Devine says has been responsible for the creation of more than 4,000 jobs, is being extended to the end of 1986. The program, introduced as part of an oil industry recovery program in 1982, had been scheduled to expire at the end of the year. The program gives a one-year, royalty free period on most new wells.

NEW YORK - NEW YORK - Buck Martinez balanced himself on the dugout steps, his lower lip protruding under the pressure of the omnipresent chaw of tobacco. As he spoke, the chaw impeded his pronounciation slightly, but not his ernestness.

"We," he said solemnly, speaking for his millionaire and lesser-paid brothers hanging around the batting cage, cavorting in the outfield and going through the same routines on diamonds throughout the land, "have not at any time said we want a strike."

To those affronted at the notion of a group of men earning an average $350,000 annually staging a work stoppage, Martinez's words probably sound as silly as any uttered during sporting labor negotiations of the past decade. Knowing he had just emerged from a 55-minute meeting in which the Blue Jays unanimously by show of hands in favor of a resolution granting the Major League Players' Association executive board the right to set a strike date, that impression would hardly be impaired.

That's what has become so side-achingly funny about the growing shadow the contract dispute is casting over baseball. As the days and weeks drift by, both sides steadfastly reinforce the cocoon they've built about the negotiations and themselves. Spinning their layers of rhetoric and counter-rhetoric, they remove themselves further and further from the real world of the paying public.

Thus can Martinez utter the words he did and expect them to be given credence by some poor guy who's been saving up for six months but can't get his son the bike he wanted for his birthday because he splurged and took the family to Exhibition Stadium one Sunday afternoon in May. Thus can Don Fehr, a sincere man who is the players' association acting director, adopt the drippingly sarcastic tone he did yesterday when discussing the newly submitted owners' proposal.

Drive salaries down

"They've said all along all they wanted to do was slow the rise of salaries," intoned Fehr. "It became clear today that what they really want to do is drive players' salaries down with a meat axe. They know so little about their own proposal, when we asked them today "how much money do you want to save?' and today again they say, to the nearest $100 million, they can't tell us. Where we are is nowhere. We hope the owners understand that, if they want a confrontation, all they have to do is keep this up."

Clearly, the owners, by their previous actions and the inane comprehensive proposal they submitted yesterday, are bent on a confrontation. It's through those actions and the latest proposal that they have built their cocoon of unreality.

It's a popular, if silly, practice to lay the blame for a mess like this at the feet of the players, to refuse any dispassionate discussion, totally ignore the facts as they stand and settle simply for a: "Those greedy bums don't deserve another cent." Normally, a thinking person might counter with a detailed explanation of how it was the owners, through their own greediness and stupidity, who dug their own grave; that the players aren't asking for anything more; that it's the owners who are now trying to take away players' hard-earned rights merely to protect themselves.

Such a person might also support the accuracy of Fehr's statement when he says the combined effect of a) a salary cap in whmch no team over the average payroll could sign free agents, and b) a revised arbitration format under which players would qualify after three years instead of two and couldn't receive more than a 100-per-cent salary increase, would be to decrease salary levels. One might speculate on the fate of the Jimmy Keys and Tony Fernandezes and wonder whether in 1990 they'd be earning as much as the Joey McLaughlins and Roy Lee Jacksons were in 1983.

No sympathy left

One might go through all that and prove that, until the owners come up with some conclusive documentation of financial catastrophe, the players are on the right side of the fence in this one. But in listening to Martinez and Fehr yesterday, another, more vital, realization struck - that neither side here is worthy of sympathy or even empathy.

The fact logic is on the players' side doesn't make them any more noble. The prospect that either side thinks it can win a fight like this makes both the more childish. And the fact neither really gives a hoot in hell about the people who pay the bills, that they've become so shut off in their own little world, makes both faintly despicable.

There are times I think the best thing that could happen would be if the players went on strike, the owners locked them out and nobody budged for a year. Or two. Or three. Or forever.

I know such a view would be as unpopular as it is unrealistic, unlikely to attract even minority support. In Toronto it might even be seen, this summer of summers, as bordering on heresy.

If so, put it down to fatigue: I'm dead tired of the ernestness, the posturing, the pronouncements, the whole labor negotiations scene. Once upon a time, it seemed to matter what the issues were, which side stood on the most solid philosophical ground. At this point, I can't really say I care any more.

Of course, that may put me in the biggest majority of all.

TORONTO - In years of searching that uncovered only a handful of really special Italian restaurants, none has given us a better feeling than Villarosa in Mississauga.

That includes every aspect - food, service, cleanliness, decor, atmosphere, table settings and - every night but Monday - one of the best dinner pianists we've heard in the Metro area (we don't satisfy easily on dinner-pianists - we compare everyone to Gene DiNovi in the Le Serre lounge at the Four Seasons and practically no one comes close).

Dinner started with hot, fluffy-light crusty slices of bread with a tangy tomato and cheese topping (free, of course).

As a starter, my wife had a half-order of the cannelloni ($7.25 as a main course) which is unusually rich with both a meat stuffing and a meat sauce and I tried the Caesar salad ($3) and found it creamy and mild.

Her chicken parmigiana ($9) was a large serving, done to perfection, and the spaghetti that came with it was excellent. My veal scallopine ($9.75) was tender and ample, covered with a dark marsala sauce laced with small mushrooms. I ordered lasagne on the side instead of vegetables and found it moist and rich, although the food combination made the meal extremely filling.

Desserts kept up the standard - zabaglione (light, creamy and sweet at $2) and strawberries with orange brandy ($3.50).

The cheque, including a $6.75 half-litre of the house white wine (Bianco Fiore) and tax, was $42.18. - Jack Miller

The Star's daily restaurant review

TABLE FOR TWO Villarosa, 380 Lakeshore Rd. E. Mississauga. 278-7930 Italian cuisine; seats 100 comfortably; pasta entrees $6 to $11.50, other entrees $9 to $24; open for lunch Monday to Friday, noon to 3 p.m., open for dinner six days from 5 p.m., closing at 11 p.m. Monday to Thursday, at 11.30 p.m. Friday and Saturday, usually closed Sunday (with exceptions for the likes of Father's Day); easy wheelchair access; no no-smoking area (but they'll try to improvise); reservations available; free parking; takes major cards.

TORONTO - The Boulevard Cafe is perhaps one of the most pleasant eating spots I have visited in Toronto.

Extremely helpful staffers will answer all questions or make a suggestion if asked about the menu - but they will also leave you alone to dine in relaxed peace. Several tables on the porch were filled with singles who apparently did not feel out of place or isolated by the warm, friendly atmosphere.

To start the meal, a generous helping of complimentary Brazilian cornbread which was so tasty that my guest and I quickly finished off the basket by the time dinner arrived.

My partner started her dinner with the Empanada, a starter of a delicious spicy chicken pastry accompanied by a side-bowl of Peruvian tomatoes, onions and hot spices ($3.50).

I really enjoyed the camarones al ajillo, a plate of five huge, spiced garlic shrimps lightly covered in a pimento and wine sauce ($5.50).

For the main course, my guest dived into a large portion of Estosado, a veal dish covered in cream sauce and white wine with parmesan chesse ($9.25). The veal was tender and well-prepared, and served over a healthy-sized bed of linguini.

I ordered a plate of Pollo al Vino, Peruvian-styled chicken in a wine sauce that was so tender it fell into my fork as I cut into the meat ($9.50). A serving of rice and crisp broccoli topped off an excellent main course.

For dessert, the strawberry tart was exceptional - no sugar glaze to destroy the tangy taste of the fruit, and the crust was perfect ($3.25).

The cheque, including a $13.50 litre of L'Epayrie French house wine, and tax, came to $45 without tip. - Chris Chenoweth

The Star's daily restaurant review

TABLE FOR TWO Boulevard Cafe 161 Harbord St. 961-7676 Peruvian cuisine; seats 75 comfortably inside and 50 on the patio. Starters between $3.50 and $6.50; Salads $2.50 to $5.75; main courses between $6.75 and $11.50. Fully licensed. Open for lunch at noon to 4 p.m. and for dinner 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. Monday to Saturday; with Sunday brunch between 11-4 p.m. and Sunday dinner until 10 p.m. Easy wheelchair access; no non-smoking area. Reservations required for large parties only. Takes major credit cards.

LONDON - LONDON - Wherever Mexican President Miguel de la Madrid Hurtado goes he is accompanied by a portable telecommunications outfit so he can fight the endless debt war that has become the Mexican government's major preoccupation.

Mexico's foreign debt of $96 billion makes it the world's second biggest debtor, only a whisker behind Brazil, but Mexico has oil. Seventy per cent of its oil earnings of $16 billion this year are going just to pay the interest on its debt, but it has kept the payments up.

President Miguel de la Madrid Hurtado has also imposed a savage austerity program on the 78 million Mexicans, and the international banking community sees him as its star pupil. Three months ago it rewarded him by negotiating an unprecedented agreement that rescheduled over half the debt - $48.5 billion - over a period of 14 years, and significantly cut the interest rate on most of it.

De la Madrid's problem is that all this international good will has been bought by domestic policies that have cut real wages by a third in two years (for the 50 per cent of the population who receive regular wages at all). The hardship for many Mexicans is severe: a recent survey showed that 65 per cent of the population no longer eat meat, and 80 per cent have given up eggs - and Mexico faces mid-term elections on July 7.

All 400 seats in Congress and seven state governorships are at stake, plus thousands of local council seats. In normal times the government would not worry much, for the ruling Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI) has not lost an election at the state or national level since 1929. However, these are not normal times.

Mexico is, in effect, a one-party state, in which all major trends of political opinion are represented within the PRI. All the forms of democracy are observed, including legal opposition parties running in every election, but they never win over 25 per cent of the national vote. The PRI owes its dominance to a vast bureaucratic structure that penetrates into every city street and every village in the country, and purchases the support of the locally influential people by providing them with jobs, privileges or just money.

In Mexico's present circumstances, however, with money so scarce and malnutrition and discontent rampant everywhere, the old methods may be losing their effectiveness. The PRI can afford to lose quite a few seats in Congress and still keep a comfortable majority, but if it loses an entire state - Sonora seems the likeliest - it will mark a revolution in Mexican politics.

It's not that the opposition are revolutionaries, by any means. The parties of the left are hopelessly splintered, and the PRI's main challenger, the National Action Party (PAN), is a conservative party strongly backed by private business. But if the election were to produce a PAN governor in Sonora, it would destroy the most potent myth in Mexican politics: that only the PRI can win elections.

Much of the PRI's strength comes from that self-fulfilling prophecy, and if it were to be shown wrong then Mexico's reputation for political stability and popular submissiveness might begin to slide too. President de la Madrid's ability to "manage" the domestic crisis would be gravely undermined, and the international banks would get very nervous indeed.

Perceptions are very important in politics, especially in a time of crisis. President de la Madrid has three more years in office, and he has done a superb job of keeping the situation under control, but huge numbers of Mexicans are living on the ragged edge of desperation. * Gwynne Dyer is a Newfoundland-born writer who specializes in defence and international affairs.

TORONTO - Sure proof of the legendary canniness of Scots is that they are able to get people to pay to eat haggis. Though there is a tradition of fine Scottish cooking, most people think of haggis, meat pies and broth.

What The Croft owner Alex Findlay does well is make his haggis palatable. The Croft is a comfortable neighborhood spot whose front room is a local pub. There was a party of 40 dart players there the night we visited, many of whom had forgotten what they had ordered in advance, but the staff was unflappable and our orders were taken without delay.

It's the waitresses and not the tartan wallpaper that give this place its heart.

We started with the homemade Scotch broth ($1.25) which was hearty with plenty of lamb. I had the jumbo shrimp cocktail ($5). Four shrimps out on a limb in a glass with seafood sauce. I'd pass on this. We ordered a bottle of Valpolicella at $8.95. For the main course my husband had prime rib of beef, man-size cut rare, at $11.25. The waitress said she'd check to see if the kitchen had a rare piece. It didn't, so he opted for medium-rare, a hefty piece of beef, accompanied by a salad, choice of potatoes and turnips. His verdict: "Very good."

I ordered the haggis with peas, potatoes and a salad ($8). It's not the haggis I remember, but then that was to its advantage. Haggis ranks somewhere between tripe and onions and bread and water for me, but whatever Alex has done to his haggis it sure is tasty. It has more of the texture and taste of blood sausage. The barley is ground and the dish comes in a large slice.

For dessert I had Scottish trifle (at least that's what the menu said it was). It turned out to be Jello, custard, sponge, canned fruit and whipped cream, a poor substitute for the real thing. But at $1.75 I should have known better. The rest of the dessert menu looked equally ordinary.

Total bill for two with wine was $36.20 excluding tax and tip.

On another visit I tried the surf and turf: Lobster tail and filet mignon with a wine and mushroom sauce. Quite disappointing at $16.50. My husband's Scottish steak pie at $8.75 met with his approval. Our two trips suggest that sticking to the beef and Scottish dishes is the best bet. - Joyce McKerrow

The Star's daily restaurant review

TABLE FOR TWO The Croft 1311 Queen St. E. 461-1234 Scottish cuisine; seats 124; entrees $6 to $16; full licence; lunch from 11 a.m. to 2.30 p.m. Tuesday to Friday; dinner 4.30 p.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 4.30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; no-smoking area; easy access for handicapped; reservations recommended Friday and Saturday evenings; takes Visa, MasterCard and Diners Club.

WASHINGTON - WASHINGTON (CP) - Canadian hog and pork producers have wrapped up a lengthy uphill battle to prevent permanent import duties on their products, saying the U.S. industry's woes arise primarily from the powerful American dollar and reduced demand for pork.

Representatives of the Canadian Pork Council and the Canadian Meat Council told the quasi-judicial U.S. International Trade Commission yesterday that hog and pork imports from Canada are not the cause of depressed prices in the United States.

Among other things, they cited figures showing that a five-week-old ban by some U.S. states on imports of Canadian hogs had not led to an increase in U.S. prices, despite the decrease in supply.

The commission is hearing final arguments on a petition filed last year by the U.S. National Pork Producers Council that seeks to have the U.S. government impose permanent penalty duties on imports of Canadian hogs and pork.

This grilled appetizer from Gail Duff's The Barbecue Book (Raincoast Books, $12.95) is easy, quick and superb. Because the kebabs are cooked over really hot coals, you can cook them as the barbecue cools down a bit for other dishes that require only a medium hot grill. The combination of the bananas and bacon, and the flavor of the basting sauce, is Caribbean cuisine at its best and will set you up for anything coming off the grill later. 4 small, firm bananas 4 slices bacon 3 tbsp oil 1 tbsp cider vinegar

1/4 tsp ground cinnamon 2 sage leaves, chopped

Cut each banana into four pieces, crosswise. Cut each slice of bacon into five pieces. Place alternate pieces of bacon and banana on four skewers. Beat together the oil, vinegar, cinnamon and sage leaves. Brush mixture over the bananas and bacon, cook four to five inches over very hot coals for 5 to 7 minutes, turning several times. Serves four, 228 calories per kebab. Spicy Peanut Chicken

This recipe from Diane Rozas's Chicken Breasts ($12.95, distributed by General Publishing) has two ingredients you may never have put together before - peanut butter and chili peppers. It's a common combination in Indonesia, where there is some of the finest cuisine in the world. If you've never tried Indonesian food, you owe it to yourself and whoever you are feeding to try this chicken dish. You won't regret it. Rozas calls for 100 per cent peanut butter, no salt or sugar added. You can get this at health food stores. I used a regular supermarket variety smooth peanut butter and it worked out well.

1/2 cup smooth peanut butter 5 tbsp soya sauce 1 tbsp brown sugar 2 tbsp water 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice 1 tsp dried crushed red chilies (or 1/2 tsp dried chili flakes)

1/2 tsp ground cinnamon 4 tbsp butter 1 onion, chopped 2 whole chicken breasts (about 2 lbs) halved

For the marinade: In a blender or a food processor, combine the first eight ingredients until smooth. Put mixture in a saucepan over low heat. Add butter and stir in as it melts. Let mixture simmer for 5 minutes. (It should look like thick chocolate.) Let cool to room temperature.

Put the onion and chicken breasts in a shallow glass or ceramic dish in one layer. Coat the chicken and onions with the marinade and let stand, covered, for 12 hours at room temperature or 24 hours in the refrigerator.

Prepare the barbecue grill. Cook chicken pieces seven to eight inches above the coals for about 4 or 5 minutes on each side, turning several times during the cooking process. Serves four, 509 calories per serving. Luther's Barbecued Ribs

Jeanne Voltz, author of Barbecued Ribs And Other Great Feeds ($15.95, Random House) got this recipe for ribs from her husband, Luther. It uses a Florida basting sauce that is piquant but not overwhelming. The taste of the pork ribs comes right through. This sauce goes well with chicken, too, according to Voltz, but you should substitute lemons for limes with barbecued poultry. 4 to 5 lbs spareribs Florida Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows)

Brush one side of ribs lightly with sauce and place about six inches above the coals. Turn when that side is slightly brown, about 10 minutes. Brush the upper side and turn over. Brush on the barbecue sauce and turn every 10 minutes for about one hour, or until done. (You can check by cutting near the bone in the centre section of the rib strip. If the juices run clear or golden, the ribs are done. The amount of time depends upon the heat of your coals. Our ribs took only 47 minutes.) Serve with a side bowl of the sauce. Makes four to six servings, 499 calories per 4 ounces of cooked rib meat. Florida Barbecue Sauce: 1 cup butter or margarine

1/2 cup cider vinegar

1/2 cup ketchup 2 1/2 ounces prepared horseradish Juice of 3 limes

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

1/2 tsp hot pepper sauce (Tabasco, red pepper sauce or Bajan sauce)

In a medium-size, stainless steel or enamel saucepan, melt the butter or margarine slowly. Stir in the rest of the ingredients and simmer uncovered for 20 to 25 minutes to blend the flavors. Grilled Corn

Fresh corn on the grill is one of the great wonders of the summer and if you have never tried it, you are missing the ultimate way of munching a cob. You can do it simply by peeling down the leaves of a cob carefully (don't detach them), removing the silk, wrapping the leaves back around the cob, securing it with a string, plunking the cobs in cold water for 30 minutes and then throwing them on the grill until the outer leaves turn dark. But this variation from The Grilling Book by A. Cort Sinnes, Jay Harlow and Earl Thollander ($16.95, disributed by General Publishing), is by far the best I've tried. Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 10 to 15 minutes 4 ears fresh sweet corn

1/4 cup butter, softened Salt and pepper to taste 1 tsp chili powder

Peel back leaves of each corn cob, leaving them attached at the base. Remove silk. Combine the butter, salt and pepper to taste and the chili powder and rub mixture lightly all over the corn. Fold leaves back up, tie with a string at top. Grill over a hot to moderate fire until the outer leaves are charred, about 10 to 15 minutes. Serves four, 170 calories per serving. Turkey With Herbs

The phone rings on a Wednesday. Guess what? The baseball team got together and decided that if they win the championship tomorrow, you're going to have the banquet at your house because, after all, you're the manager.

The team wins. Drat.

But it's no problem if you've got a little lead time to thaw a turkey. And if the team wants to have the banquet Saturday, so much the better, because a turkey can take a long time on the barbecue. But it's worth it.

The easiest way to cook it is with a rotating spit attachment. But you can barbecue a whole turkey right on the grill and have superb results. That's the way we did it for this recipe from The Barbecue Book. You don't cook it directly over the coals. Use a drip pan underneath the bird in a barbecue with a top and arrange the coals all around the outside of the barbecue to prevent flare-ups and burning. This is also a perfect time to use a hardwood "aromatic" chunk - hickory or mesquite, for example - to flavor the smoke. One chunk of mesquite wrapped tightly in foil with fork holes

punched through the foil was tested for this turkey.

To judge how big a bird to buy, figure 3/4 to 1 pound per person if the turkey is less than 14 pounds, and 1/2 to 3/4 pound for each serving if it's larger.

And turkey is appropriate, too, if the ball team loses. Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: We tested a 7 1/4 lb turkey. It took 2 3/4 hours. A 16 to 20 lb turkey takes 4 1/2 to 5 hours, according to The Barbecue Book. Resting time: 20 to 30 minutes 1 16- to 20-lb turkey Freshly ground black pepper 1 lemon, thinly sliced 1 orange, thinly sliced 2 large sprigs each of parlsey, thyme, marjoram, tarragon, sage Basting sauce:

1/2 cup butter Grated rind and juice of 1/2 lemon Grated rind and juice of 1 medium orange

1/4 cup chopped parsley 2 tbsp chopped thyme 2 tbsp chopped marjoram 2 tbsp chopped tarragon

Season the body cavity of the bird with pepper. Fill it with sliced lemon, orange and the herb sprigs. Secure wings under the back. Tie the legs to the body. Insert a meat thermometer into the thickest portion of the thigh with the point away from the bone.

Put turkey directly on the grill over the drip pan. Melt butter, mix basting ingredients into it. Brush turkey with the basting mixture. Cook 4 1/2 to 5 hours or until the internal thermometer reads 180 degrees F (80 C), basting frequently and adding charcoal as necessary to keep the temperature high. You'll probably go through a good sized bag of briquets.

Remove turkey from grill when done, wrap in foil and leave to stand for 20 to 30 minutes before carving. Grill-roasted Potatoes

I love the charred skin of potatoes baked over coals. The trick is to turn them often so the heat gets to all sides. The only ingredient is a baking potato itself. Simply scrub the potatoes clean and plop them on the grill. Large baking potatoes will take between 1 and 1 1/2 hours, smaller ones 45 minutes to an hour. You can also do sweet potatoes, which will take between 45 minutes and an hour. Each potato with 1 tbsp of butter, 179 calories. Tenderloin Steaks With Mozzarella

This recipe from Duff's The Barbecue Book is expensive because it needs the tenderloin to work properly. A rib eye steak - slightly less expensive and a good substitute for filet if you are simply seasoning and grilling - doesn't work as well because it's not solid and the cheese melts through. This recipe is terrific for a dinner party steak when you want to impress your guests with an unusual version al Italia. Preparation time: 15 minutes Marinating time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 10 to 15 minutes 8 filet steaks, 1 inch thick Marinade (recipe follows)

1/4 lb (125 g) Mozzarella cheese 8 black olives

Cut a crossways slit in each filet, 3/4 of the way through to create a pocket. In a large, flat dish, coat the filets with the marinade, making sure you coat the inside pockets as well. Cover and set aside for a minimum 30 minutes at room temperature.

Cut eight small, thin slices of Mozzarella cheese. Halve and pit the black olives. Push a slice of cheese and two olive halves into each steak pocket. Cook four to six inches above hot coals five to eight minutes on each side, or to your liking. Note: Because the steaks are slit, they take less time on the grill to cook than whole, one-inch filets. Serves eight, 393 calories for every 4-ounce serving.

Marinade:

1/2 cup (125 mL) dry red wine

4 tbsp oil ( 1/4 cup) (good olive oil recommended)

2 tbsp chopped thyme

1 garlic clove crushed

Pepper, freshly ground to taste

Simply combine all the marinade ingredients. Recipes tested and adapted by Star food writer David Kingsmill.

TORONTO - Okay, quick: Write down everything you've barbecued so far this summer.

I'll just step out of the room in case you mumble while thinking about the answers. Dum de dum dum. Dum de dee dee. Doodle daddle doo. Bebob shebam. Okay, I'm back.

Now, let's see . . . the overwhelming number of you have barbecued hamburgers, steaks and hot dogs. Close behind are chicken legs and thighs, then chicken breasts. Some of you grilled ribs and pork chops and still others barbecued lamb chops. But not many. A few, only a few, dared a whole chicken and even fewer a roast beef.

And in almost every case, you prepared the meat the same way you did last year. Right? Now I ask you, is this some sort of tradition you're following?

Barbecuing is a very personal thing. We have all barbecued the perfect burger, the perfect steak, and the perfect chicken leg. Friends and families have devoured our food, praised the cook, and demanded to know the secret ingredient. With such accolades, and with the exception of only a few burned mishaps, why should we tinker with success? And that, I submit, is the reason we don't extend ourselves and experiment.

The barbecue can cook hundreds of foods with the same simplicity and ease as it cooks the standards.

Don't believe it? Read on. Recipes from four of the best new barbecue cookbooks have been taken to whip up your imagination. They are all easy because, after all, barbecuing is easy.

Banana and Bacon Kebabs

This grilled appetizer from Gail Duff's The Barbecue Book (Raincoast Books, $12.95) is easy, quick and superb. Because the kebabs are cooked over really hot coals, you can cook them as the barbecue cools down a bit for other dishes that require only a medium hot grill. The combination of the bananas and bacon, and the flavor of the basting sauce, is Caribbean cuisine at its best and will set you up for anything coming off the grill later. 4 small, firm bananas 4 slices bacon 3 tbsp oil 1 tbsp cider vinegar

1/4 tsp ground cinnamon 2 sage leaves, chopped

Cut each banana into four pieces, crosswise. Cut each slice of bacon into five pieces. Place alternate pieces of bacon and banana on four skewers. Beat together the oil, vinegar, cinnamon and sage leaves. Brush mixture over the bananas and bacon, cook four to five inches over very hot coals for 5 to 7 minutes, turning several times. Serves four, 228 calories per kebab. Spicy Peanut Chicken

This recipe from Diane Rozas's Chicken Breasts ($12.95, distributed by General Publishing) has two ingredients you may never have put together before - peanut butter and chili peppers. It's a common combination in Indonesia, where there is some of the finest cuisine in the world. If you've never tried Indonesian food, you owe it to yourself and whoever you are feeding to try this chicken dish. You won't regret it. Rozas calls for 100 per cent peanut butter, no salt or sugar added. You can get this at health food stores. I used a regular supermarket variety smooth peanut butter and it worked out well.

1/2 cup smooth peanut butter 5 tbsp soya sauce 1 tbsp brown sugar 2 tbsp water 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice 1 tsp dried crushed red chilies (or 1/2 tsp dried chili flakes)

1/2 tsp ground cinnamon 4 tbsp butter 1 onion, chopped 2 whole chicken breasts (about 2 lbs) halved

For the marinade: In a blender or a food processor, combine the first eight ingredients until smooth. Put mixture in a saucepan over low heat. Add butter and stir in as it melts. Let mixture simmer for 5 minutes. (It should look like thick chocolate.) Let cool to room temperature.

Put the onion and chicken breasts in a shallow glass or ceramic dish in one layer. Coat the chicken and onions with the marinade and let stand, covered, for 12 hours at room temperature or 24 hours in the refrigerator.

Prepare the barbecue grill. Cook chicken pieces seven to eight inches above the coals for about 4 or 5 minutes on each side, turning several times during the cooking process. Serves four, 509 calories per serving. Luther's Barbecued Ribs

Jeanne Voltz, author of Barbecued Ribs And Other Great Feeds ($15.95, Random House) got this recipe for ribs from her husband, Luther. It uses a Florida basting sauce that is piquant but not overwhelming. The taste of the pork ribs comes right through. This sauce goes well with chicken, too, according to Voltz, but you should substitute lemons for limes with barbecued poultry. 4 to 5 lbs spareribs Florida Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows)

Brush one side of ribs lightly with sauce and place about six inches above the coals. Turn when that side is slightly brown, about 10 minutes. Brush the upper side and turn over. Brush on the barbecue sauce and turn every 10 minutes for about one hour, or until done. (You can check by cutting near the bone in the centre section of the rib strip. If the juices run clear or golden, the ribs are done. The amount of time depends upon the heat of your coals. Our ribs took only 47 minutes.) Serve with a side bowl of the sauce. Makes four to six servings, 499 calories per 4 ounces of cooked rib meat. Florida Barbecue Sauce: 1 cup butter or margarine

1/2 cup cider vinegar

1/2 cup ketchup 2 1/2 ounces prepared horseradish Juice of 3 limes

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

1/2 tsp hot pepper sauce (Tabasco, red pepper sauce or Bajan sauce)

In a medium-size, stainless steel or enamel saucepan, melt the butter or margarine slowly. Stir in the rest of the ingredients and simmer uncovered for 20 to 25 minutes to blend the flavors. Grilled Corn

Fresh corn on the grill is one of the great wonders of the summer and if you have never tried it, you are missing the ultimate way of munching a cob. You can do it simply by peeling down the leaves of a cob carefully (don't detach them), removing the silk, wrapping the leaves back around the cob, securing it with a string, plunking the cobs in cold water for 30 minutes and then throwing them on the grill until the outer leaves turn dark. But this variation from The Grilling Book by A. Cort Sinnes, Jay Harlow and Earl Thollander ($16.95, disributed by General Publishing), is by far the best I've tried. Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 10 to 15 minutes 4 ears fresh sweet corn

1/4 cup butter, softened Salt and pepper to taste 1 tsp chili powder

Peel back leaves of each corn cob, leaving them attached at the base. Remove silk. Combine the butter, salt and pepper to taste and the chili powder and rub mixture lightly all over the corn. Fold leaves back up, tie with a string at top. Grill over a hot to moderate fire until the outer leaves are charred, about 10 to 15 minutes. Serves four, 170 calories per serving. Turkey With Herbs

The phone rings on a Wednesday. Guess what? The baseball team got together and decided that if they win the championship tomorrow, you're going to have the banquet at your house because, after all, you're the manager.

The team wins. Drat.

But it's no problem if you've got a little lead time to thaw a turkey. And if the team wants to have the banquet Saturday, so much the better, because a turkey can take a long time on the barbecue. But it's worth it.

The easiest way to cook it is with a rotating spit attachment. But you can barbecue a whole turkey right on the grill and have superb results. That's the way we did it for this recipe from The Barbecue Book. You don't cook it directly over the coals. Use a drip pan underneath the bird in a barbecue with a top and arrange the coals all around the outside of the barbecue to prevent flare-ups and burning. This is also a perfect time to use a hardwood "aromatic" chunk - hickory or mesquite, for example - to flavor the smoke. One chunk of mesquite wrapped tightly in foil with fork holes

punched through the foil was tested for this turkey.

To judge how big a bird to buy, figure 3/4 to 1 pound per person if the turkey is less than 14 pounds, and 1/2 to 3/4 pound for each serving if it's larger.

And turkey is appropriate, too, if the ball team loses. Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: We tested a 7 1/4 lb turkey. It took 2 3/4 hours. A 16 to 20 lb turkey takes 4 1/2 to 5 hours, according to The Barbecue Book. Resting time: 20 to 30 minutes 1 16- to 20-lb turkey Freshly ground black pepper 1 lemon, thinly sliced 1 orange, thinly sliced 2 large sprigs each of parlsey, thyme, marjoram, tarragon, sage Basting sauce:

1/2 cup butter Grated rind and juice of 1/2 lemon Grated rind and juice of 1 medium orange

1/4 cup chopped parsley 2 tbsp chopped thyme 2 tbsp chopped marjoram 2 tbsp chopped tarragon

Season the body cavity of the bird with pepper. Fill it with sliced lemon, orange and the herb sprigs. Secure wings under the back. Tie the legs to the body. Insert a meat thermometer into the thickest portion of the thigh with the point away from the bone.

Put turkey directly on the grill over the drip pan. Melt butter, mix basting ingredients into it. Brush turkey with the basting mixture. Cook 4 1/2 to 5 hours or until the internal thermometer reads 180 degrees F (80 C), basting frequently and adding charcoal as necessary to keep the temperature high. You'll probably go through a good sized bag of briquets.

Remove turkey from grill when done, wrap in foil and leave to stand for 20 to 30 minutes before carving. Grill-roasted Potatoes

I love the charred skin of potatoes baked over coals. The trick is to turn them often so the heat gets to all sides. The only ingredient is a baking potato itself. Simply scrub the potatoes clean and plop them on the grill. Large baking potatoes will take between 1 and 1 1/2 hours, smaller ones 45 minutes to an hour. You can also do sweet potatoes, which will take between 45 minutes and an hour. Each potato with 1 tbsp of butter, 179 calories. Tenderloin Steaks

This recipe from Duff's The Barbecue Book is expensive because it needs the tenderloin to work properly. A rib eye steak - slightly less expensive and a good substitute for filet if you are simply seasoning and grilling - doesn't work as well because it's not solid and the cheese melts through. This recipe is terrific for a dinner party steak when you want to impress your guests with an unusual version al Italia. Preparation time: 15 minutes Marinating time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 10 to 15 minutes 8 filet steaks, 1 inch thick Marinade (recipe follows)

1/4 lb (125 g) Mozzarella cheese 8 black olives

Cut a crossways slit in each filet, 3/4 of the way through to create a pocket. In a large, flat dish, coat the filets with the marinade, making sure you coat the inside pockets as well. Cover and set aside for a minimum 30 minutes at room temperature.

Cut eight small, thin slices of Mozzarella cheese. Halve and pit the black olives. Push a slice of cheese and two olive halves into each steak pocket. Cook four to six inches above hot coals five to eight minutes on each side, or to your liking. Note: Because the steaks are slit, they take less time on the grill to cook than whole, one-inch filets. Serves eight, 393 calories for every 4-ounce serving.

Marinade:

1/2 cup (125 mL) dry red wine

4 tbsp oil ( 1/4 cup) (good olive oil recommended)

2 tbsp chopped thyme

1 garlic clove crushed

Pepper, freshly ground to taste

Simply combine all the marinade ingredients. Recipes tested and adapted by Star food writer David Kingsmill.

TORONTO - Old-fashioned spice cookies are just the thing to enjoy with frosty lemonade on warm summer days. If the idea sounds good to you, why not try this recipe and fill the kitchen cookie jar before the next heat wave hits? Vera Shaw of Toronto sent it after she noticed Jackie Terry's request for a soft spice cookie made with molasses. Vera Shaw's Soft Molasses Cookies

3/4 cup shortening

1/4 cup brown sugar 1 egg 1 1/2 cups molasses 5 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 cup hot water 4 tsp baking soda 1 tsp salt 2 tsp ginger

1/2 tsp each: cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves

Cream shortening and sugar. Beat in egg, molasses and 2 cups flour. (Use sweet, not bitter molasses.) Stir in hot water, then add remaining flour sifted with soda, salt and spices. Cover and refrigerate until firm. Roll to a 6/8- to 1/4-inch thickness on a floured board. Cut with cookie cutters. Bake in a preheated 350 to 375 degree F oven 10 to 12 minutes or until firm and lightly browned. Mrs. Brown's City Chicken

The only time you come across chicken in this recipe is in the title. This version of the popular dish belongs to Mrs. A. Brown of Fonthill, who tells Ann Altpeter that it is tasty and fairly easy to make.

1/2 lb veal cutlet

1/2 lb pork steak Salt and pepper Bread crumbs Parmesan cheese Parsley 1 egg, slightly beaten Vegetable oil

Season meat with salt and pepper. Cut into small cubes; thread on wooden skewers. Mix bread crumbs with a little cheese and parsley. Roll meat cubes in egg, then in bread crumb mixture. Brown in oil. Cover with foil and place in a preheated 325 degree F oven for 20 minutes. Makes 6 skewers. J. Twomey's Salmon Loaf

Salmon loaf is another summer favorite and this recipe can be adapted to serve two instead of six with good results, says sender J.T. Twomey of St. Catharines. It's another recipe for Mrs. Halsted's collection. 3 7 3/4-oz cans flaked salmon, drained 3 cups bread crumbs

3/4 cup milk 3 eggs, lightly beaten 2 tbsp grated onion

1/2 cup chopped parsley

1/4 cup lemon juice 1 tsp salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Combine all ingredients in a large bowl. Season with pepper. Spoon into a greased loaf pan or ring mold. Bake 40 minutes or until firm. Serve hot with white sauce to which 2 chopped hard-cooked eggs have been added, or cold with relish or cucumber dressing. Makes 6 servings. * If you make rhubarb jam with an orange jelly powder, Elma Fairman of Trenton is interested in trying the recipe. * Ann Robertson says her husband still remembers turkey with oatmeal stuffing that his mother made when he was a child. She would like to make it for him but is having trouble finding the right recipe. Can anyone help? * Alice Kingston of Scarborough says her family was delighted with the taste of a bottle of zucchini relish she brought home from the Fergus market. Turmeric, diced red pepper and celery seeds are some of the ingredients. She would appreciate any help that zucchini relish picklers could give her with a recipe. * Joan Brett of Caledon East says she is at a loss about how to use the horseradish plants in the family garden. She would appreciate any recipes that you might have to share, especially some unusual ones. * Recipes for quiche and salads to serve with them are needed by Miss Nellie Garside of Toronto. * Mrs. J. Bailie of Agincourt wants to try making flour tortillas and hopes that someone has a recipe for her. * The recipe for Huguenot Torte is missing from Mrs. Nora Watts' collection and she hopes that someone else who clipped it has a copy to share. * These recipes are not tested in The Star kitchen. Send requests and recipes to Recipe Exchange, Star Test Kitchen, Toronto Star, One Yonge St., Toronto M5E 1E6. We regret requests cannot be taken over the phone and letters cannot receive a personal reply.

It doesn't matter if you're planning a picnic for five or 50 people, you must go through the same planning stages, a home economist with the Ontario Ministry of Agriculture and Food says.

Nancy Jacky says organization is the key to a successful picnic for a crowd. Factors that must be considered include the type of meal to be served, the location and the number of guests. Lists should be made of all tasks and items to buy.

To ensure food is safe at a picnic, the major thing to consider is the maintaining of proper food temperatures.

"When going on a picnic, the big thing is to keep cold foods cold (below 5 C) and hot foods hot (above 60 C)," Jacky says. "Mayonnaise spoils very rapidly when combined with other things so foods like potato or macaroni salad must be kept very cold.

"They shouldn't be kept at room temperature for longer than two hours, or one hour on an outdoor picnic table because it's generally hotter."

To keep foods cold enough, they should be made a day ahead of the event, refrigerated so they are completely chilled, transported in a cooler and then served on beds of ice or ice packs.

The dishes should not be allowed to warm up because the temperature and moisture of the food provide an ideal breeding ground for food poisoning bacteria.

Dishes containing cream, eggs, cheese and meats are ideal candidates for spoilage.

Other potentially unsafe foods include raw and cooked poultry, fish and fish salad, processed meats such as bologna, wieners and ham, cooked vegetables such as peas and beans, oatmeal, custards, puddings, whipped cream, shellfish, dressings, gravies, sauces and canned meats that have been opened.

Safe foods are nuts and peanut butter, bread products, jam, honey, candy, butter, cooking oils, margarine, raw fruits and vegetables, dried sausages, salami and pepperoni, pickles and relishes, and unopened canned fish and meat.

It is especially important to adhere to safe practices when handling meats, Jacky says, particularly if the meat has been mixed with other foods - for example, when hamburger is made into patties with egg.

Ham is ideal for the microwave cook who wants to produce an appetizing, satisfying entree quickly. Because most hams - boneless and bone-in - are fully cooked, they require only heating to serving temperature.

No matter how it is sliced, cubed, diced, cut into strips or ground, smoked ham responds well to microwave cooking. It is possible to cook a whole or half ham in most microwave ovens, but the results usually are better and faster if hams more than 3 or 4 pounds are sliced or carved before microwaving.

Ham is a compact, dense meat and is more resistant to penetration by microwaves than most meats. When whole hams more than 5 pounds are microwaved, the muscles may separate and the outside portions may become dry before the centre reaches serving temperature.

Slicing or carving a large ham and overlapping or stacking the slices in a microwave-safe dish can speed heating and results in juicy, tender meat.

Here are cooking directions that apply to fully cooked ham:

Ham slices (cut 1/4-inch thick; about 1 1/2 pounds): Place slices of ham in two equal stacks in microwave-safe dish. Add 1/4 cup water; cover with plastic wrap, venting at one corner. Cook at medium power (50 per cent) for 25 to 28 minutes, rotating dish 1/4 turn every 7 minutes. Let stand 3 minutes before serving. Slices can be cooked at higher power in about half the time.

Hams less than 3 pounds can be microwaved whole or sliced. Recommendations and directions vary considerably. Authorities recommend using medium power (50 per cent) for microwaving ham. The ham should be turned over (upside down) midway during microwaving and the dish rotated several times. It is impossible to pinpoint the exact time required because of differences in microwave ovens and in hams. The size and shape of the ham as well as the weight determine cooking time.

Ten to 15 minutes a pound generally are required for hams weighing about 3 pounds, although canned hams may take fewer minutes per pound, as will larger hams. The cut surface should be covered with plastic wrap and the edge of the ham shielded with foil. Ten minutes standing time with ham tented with foil is recommended before carving. The internal temperature usually rises no more than 5 degrees during this time, and the ham should attain a final internal temperature of 140 degrees. A glaze can be applied during the last few minutes of cooking time.

Another satisfying microwave choice is a thick ham slice to cook and carve as a roast. The following directions apply to fully cooked ham:

Ham slice (about 2 inches thick, 3 1/2 to 4 pounds): Place ham in microwave-safe dish; cover with wax paper and cook at medium (50 per cent) power to an internal temperature of 140 degrees, rotating dish every 5 minutes, and turning ham after 15 minutes. Heating will require 35 to 50 minutes, depending on the weight of the ham slice.

Thinner ham slices cut from bone-in or boneless hams are appropriate for microwave cooking. Not a great deal of time is saved by cooking a ham slice in the microwave oven, but it is a convenient way of heating.

Ham slice ( 3/4 to 1 inch thick): Place ham slice in microwave-safe dish; cover with wax paper. Cook at medium (50 per cent) power 8 minutes, rotating dish 1/4 turn after 4 minutes. Turn ham slice over and continue cooking 6 minutes, rotating 1/4 turn after 3 minutes. Let stand before serving.

TORONTO - Helen Lanteigne cultivates a garden with a difference. All the vegetables in her plot outside the kitchen door at North York's Gibson House are 19th century varieties.

There are three kinds of beets; the Early Blood Turnip beet, pre-1840, has a pointed base and a sweet, more intense beet flavor than most 20th century varieties. There are also Hollow Crown parsnips (pre-1850), Purple Top Strap Leaf turnips (pre-1865) to pull at the first frost, Yellow Plum tomatoes, dating from 1865 or earlier, and two kinds of potatoes available a century ago - Red Chieftain and Sebago.

Lanteigne, a member of the interpretive staff at Gibson House, also grows squash, pumpkins, corn, beans and peas.

For its 1984 garden, Gibson House bought seeds from Cornell University's Heirloom Garden program. (The Heirloom Garden, Department of Vegetable Crops, 157 Plant Science Building, Cornell University, Ithaca N.Y., 14853-0327.)

Since much of the crop is used in fall and spring school programs, Gibson interpreters found they did not have much use for the summer radishes and lettuces included in the Cornell kit, and so this year, planted more carrots and turnips, as well as potatoes. The tubers came from the Canadian Organic Growers, Heritage Seed Program, 46 Lorindale Ave., Toronto, M5M 3C2. Although it's too late for gardeners to buy seeds for their 1985 garden, the Gibson House garden gives visitors a chance to see whether they are interested in these 19th century varieties for next year.

Gibson House will show off some of its crop when the North York Horticultural Society has its show in the North York Civic Centre, Sept. 7 and 8. Islington's Montgomery's Inn, which also has heirloom vegetables and herbs, will sponsor a vegetable day on Sept. 8 with a talk on horticulture and displays of its own vegetables and those from other Ontario historic sites with 19th century gardens.

For readers whose major interest in vegetables is how they taste, here are delicious recipes from the past, using summer produce from modern gardens or markets.

New Potatoes And Peas

Combine the tiniest of new potatoes with the youngest, most tender shelled peas in a recipe that dates from Loyalist days in Upper Canada. Serve with a mild flavored meat or fish, barbecued outdoors in the fashion of the '80s. Chicken quarters or slices of the breast cut on the diagonal, pork chops or butterflied tenderloin, veal chops, whole rainbow trout or any fish steaks suit this delicately delectable dish. 1 kg (2 1/4 lb) fresh peas in their pods 750 g (1 1/2 lb) tiny new potatoes Boiling salted water 1 tbsp butter

cup whipping cream

Shell the peas; there should be about 3 cups, but if the cook has nibbled a few along the way it won't spoil this simple dish.

Wash new potatoes, cutting out any blemishes, but on no account should you waste your time scraping off any of the delicious and healthful skin. Cook potatoes in boiling salted water for 8 to 12 minutes or until tender on the outside but with slightly firm centres. Add peas to pan, cover again and cook until peas and potatoes are both tender, about 8 minutes. Drain, reserving water for soups or stocks.

To pan, add the butter and cream, cook uncovered over high heat just long enough to melt the butter and thicken the cream sufficiently to glaze the peas and potatoes, about 3 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve immediately in a warmed bowl.

Makes 6 servings.

Sauted Cucumbers

The subtle taste of the season's first small cucumbers is captured in this recipe, adapted from one in Eliza Leslie's Directions for Cookery, published in 1848 in Philadelphia and in use in many kitchens in old Ontario.

Although you need to cook cucumbers at the last moment, you can prepare the cucumbers and green onions ahead of time and keep them in the refrigerator. Serve with fish, chicken, turkey or lamb. 6 small field cucumbers, each about 4 1/2 inches long and 600 g (1 1/4 lb) total weight 2 green onions 2 tbsp butter 1 tbsp chicken stock Salt and freshly ground pepper

cup finely chopped fresh dill or parsley

Peel cucumbers, leaving on a few strips of skin - if it's tender - for color. Quarter lengthwise and cut on the diagonal, into 1/2 inch slices. Clean and chop green onions finely.

In a large frying pan, melt but-t+0

ter over medium high heat. Add onion and saute for 1 minute to soften. Mix in cucumber, coating all the pieces with butter. Saut for 2 minutes; pour in stock, increase heat to high and cook, uncovered and stirring constantly, until cucumbers are crisp tender and the moisture evaporated, about 3 minutes. Season with salt, pepper and fresh herbs.

Serve immediately in a warmed bowl. Makes enough for 6 for dinner.

Summer Salad Bowl

A summer salad need not be complicated. A choice of fresh greens - frilly leaf lettuce, the heart of Boston or bibb lettuce and watercress are sufficient, especially when coated in this old-fashioned cream dressing. 6 tender leaves frilly leaf lettuce Heart of 1 Boston or bibb lettuce

1/2 bunch watercress or 4 cups sprigs of garden cress Dressing

cup whipping cream 2 tbsp vegetable oil 1 1/2 tbsp white wine vinegar 1 tsp granulated sugar

1/2 tsp dry mustard

1/4 tsp salt

Pinch cayenne

Wash and spin lettuce leaves dry. Remove coarse stems from cress. Wrap lettuce and cress in towels, enclose in a large plastic bag and refrigerate to crisp. Whisk together dressing ingredients, cover and keep chilled.

Tear lettuce leaves into bite-size pieces. Mix together with cress in a large bowl. Stir up dressing, taste and adjust seasoning. Drizzle over greens, toss and serve right away.

Makes 6 generous servings. A few radishes or a small cucumber, finely sliced, make a pleasant addition to the salad.

Carrot Fritters

Here is a savory version of the fritters Gibson House makes from the carrots in its heirloom garden. 500 g (1 lb) carrots (10 medium)

1/4 cup all-purpose flour 1 tbsp butter, melted

1/2 tsp baking powder

1/4 tsp salt Pinch freshly ground pepper 1 egg

Oil for frying

Trim and pare carrots; cut into 1/2-inch slices and boil until tender in salted water, about 15 minutes. Drain, reserving 1 tbsp liquid for the fritters, adding the remainder to a stock pot or soup. Pure carrots in a blender, food processor or through a food mill. Measure - there should be 1 cups.

In a large bowl, combine carrot pure with flour, butter, baking powder, salt, pepper, egg and the 1 tbsp carrot liquid, beating to form a smooth batter.

Heat 2 inches of oil in a straight-sided deep fry pan to 375 degrees F. Scoop out carrot batter, a rounded teaspoon at a time, and drop into the oil. Fry fritters, about 5 at a time, for 2 minutes, turning them once to brown evenly. Drain on paper towels and keep the first ones warm in the oven with the door ajar while frying the remainder. Serve while hot for an appetizer - with a tartar sauce or a squeeze of lemon. The fritters are also good with ham.

Makes about 2 dozen fritters.

It can be a big leap from taking your bathing suit out of storage to being willing to wear it in public. Maybe a 10-pound leap.

This is the moment when all those excuses about needing extra insulation to keep the cold weather from hitting your bones wear thin as you reveal a thickened torso. It is the season of the crash diet.

And much as we and every other reasonable source will tell you that crash diets aren't a good idea, we know that you'll go ahead anyway.

So, in honor of bikini season, here is a collection of diet tips, safe and sound ways to cut calories: * Exercise. Exercise. Exercise.

Eat before dinner * When dining out, eat something small - for instance, a modest salad or half a piece of fruit - a half hour before dinner, either before you leave home or as an appetizer. It cuts your appetite before you face heavy temptation. * Prepare and eat a low-calorie vegetable or salad as soon as you get home from work, and only after that decide what else to have for dinner, after your strongest pangs are appeased. And drink a glass of water before dinner. It, too, makes you feel fuller before you gorge. * Several small meals are easier to control and may make you feel more satisfied than fewer larger ones. * Portion your food before you sit down to eat it, rather than serving it family style. It avoids tempting yourself with larger or second portions. * In a restaurant, set aside what you don't intend to eat, and have plates removed as soon as you are done so you don't continue nibbling. * The prettier the plate, the more satisfying the eating. When cooking for yourself, arrange fruit and vegetable garnishes colorfully, cut meat into small slices or strips. * At a party, decide ahead how many hors d'oeuvres you will eat, and pace them - for instance, one every 45 minutes. In between, station yourself by the crudites, just out of reach of the dips. Drink club soda with a dash of bitters, and don't mention you are on a diet. * Think fats. Look for hidden possibilities: Fat might be incorporated into cream soups (whereas in clear soups it would float and could be removed), or in sauces or in spicy meats. * Blot your soup, if it is greasy, or vegetables if they are buttery, with paper towel, napkin, icy lettuce leaf or ice cube wrapped in napkin. * A baked potato is only 100 to 150 calories. To make it into a fuller meal, split it open while it is still hot, season well and break an egg into it. Wrap in foil and return to the oven until the egg is cooked - 10 to 15 minutes, a filling 250 calories. Skip the butter with a plain baked potato, and instead top it with yogurt or a squeeze of lemon juice. * Share helpings with the dog (worry about the dog's diet later). * If you need a crunchy snack, consider pretzels - big, fat, Pennsylvania Dutch ones made with no shortening cost only 50 calories each. Popcorn cooked without oil is also calorically cheap; to make the salt stick to unoiled popcorn, moisten your hands, pour the salt on your hands and rub it on the popcorn. * Serve yourself rather than letting someone else portion your food. * When cutting down on calories, make sure those calories consumed are nutritionally meaningful and pleasant to eat. * Eat slowly; this is probably the most important physical adjustment in dieting. * In restaurants, order foods that take a lot of time to eat: steamed crabs, artichokes. * Use small utensils - a teaspoon for soup, a demitasse spoon for dessert - to slow down your consumption. * Eat things that are very hot and things that require utensils, particularly that need cutting. This also slows down the pace of eating. * Clear foods off counters and tables; keep them out of sight. * Negotiate with the rest of the family about which foods can be kept in the house and which should be banned. * Make low-calorie foods more available than high-calorie foods. * Don't eat in cars, or standing up, or walking. Eat only in specified places and situations. * Eat only when doing nothing else but savoring every bite; don't eat when reading or watching television.

Eat chicken breasts * Keep skinned, poached chicken breasts on hand for quick sandwiches and snacks. Poach those chicken breasts in water or broth with strong flavorings - curry, bay leaves, cumin, mustard, chilies, chili powder, Caribbean hot sauce or salsa. * Weigh yourself no more than once a week, and take that weight change seriously. * Instead of avoiding your favorite foods, manage them. Have some, but control how much. And if you binge at one meal, don't even think of giving up; just start afresh with the next. * Concentrate on enjoying every bite you eat instead of eating more - for instance, a whole box of cookies - than you actually need for enjoyment. * Plan your eating, even if only five seconds before you start. Don't eat spontaneously.

CHICAGO - CHICAGO (Reuter) - Morning is not a good time for breakfast, a pair of nutritionists warn in a new book on the subject. And, they say, old-fashioned meat and potato meals slow digestion.

The big breakfast and the traditional concept of a "balanced" meal are the quickest ways to get fat, say Harvey and Marilyn Diamond.

The nutritionists say it's fine, even natural, not to feel like eating breakfast because the body at that time of day is still in an "elimination" cycle, processing the thousands of calories taken in the day before.

In fact, they say, morning is the worst time of the day to eat. In their book Fit for Life (Warner, $23.25), they also set out to debunk traditional notions of what constitutes a proper lunch or dinner.

Harvey Diamond, a slim, curly-haired Californian, says he once weighed 202 pounds. His wife says she suffered from chronic stomach pain. Both problems, they said in an interview, were resolved by heeding the body's natural cycles instead of traditional nutritional guidelines.

They wrote their book, which includes recipes, for people trying to lose weight. But they also say that following their method would make for better health all around.

It is based on two theories: * The body from 4 a.m. to roughly noon each day is in an elimination cycle, which can be thwarted by eating heavy food or drinking thick liquid, including coffee.

The only food or liquid that will not upset the process, the Diamonds say, is fresh fruit, which is digested quickly and provides instant energy. * Starches and proteins combined at one meal - steak and potatoes, for example - impede digestion because conflicting stomach acids are needed for absorption.

The proper approach, they say, is to eat either a starch or a protein along with vegetables and fruits.

Quantity, they say, is not as important as timing and quality.

"If during the elimination cycle you put food in the stomach, the digestive energy necessary to break down food is diverted from the elimination cycle, and it stops," Harvey Diamond said.

"Most people . . . have never had the opportunity for their elimination cycle to function properly," he added. "That's why 65 per cent of the (U.S.) population is overweight."

TORONTO - Tortellini salad may have come and gone with trendy eaters but find a good one made with fresh tortellini, crispy vegetables and tasty dressing and I'll happily add it to a buffet table or use it to accompany barbecued meat or chicken.

This recipe for tortellini salad is worth considering, as it resulted from a bit of culinary detective work. Having spotted, but never tasted, a particularly good looking salad selling for $9 per pound at a favorite food store, I decided to invest $2.25 on a quarter pound to see if it could be duplicated.

The result was this recipe, which may even be tastier than the original. And since the dressing contains no mayonnaise, the salad is especially durable in hot weather.

Salad prepared quickly

The food processor makes quick work of salad preparation, a boon on hot summer days. In addition to mixing the dressing and slicing the peppers and broccoli stems, the machine is used to produce carrot matchsticks that add color and a crunchy taste.

Double slicing is the technique used to produce the julienne or matchstick strips. First, the carrots are inserted sideways in the food chute and processed into long slices, then the slices are gathered together in a stack, rotated 45 degrees and loaded into the food chute with the cut edges resting against the slicing disc.

When the carrots are processed again, the disc cuts the carrot slices into matchsticks or julienned pieces.

Load from underneath

Loading the food chute is the only tricky aspect of double slicing. Standard size food chutes should be loaded from underneath the tube, inserting slices snugly.

Large capacity food chutes, which are shorter and stubbier than the standard tube, can be loaded from above, since the tube comes in two parts and the pusher assembly can easily be inserted over the slices.

If carrot slices will not fill the entire expanded food chute, pack them snugly at the end of the chute that is opposite the direction of the oncoming disc so they slice cleanly and are not dislodged by the rotating disc. Tortellini Salad With Buttermilk Dressing Makes 6 to 8 servings Processing time: 7 minutes Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 10 minutes 4 quarts boiling water 1 lb fresh tortellini 4 medium carrots, peeled, cut to fit sideways in food chute 1 red bell pepper, cored

3/4 lb fresh broccoli, stems peeled, rinsed 1 can (5 oz) jumbo pitted olives, drained and halved Buttermilk dressing: 1 medium garlic clove, peeled 4 oz cream cheese, softened 1 cup buttermilk Salt and freshly ground pepper

Several dashes hot pepper sauce

1. Boil tortellini in water until tender, usually 8 minutes. Drain, cool, transfer to a mixing bowl.

2. Cut carrots into julienne strips by placing in food chute sideways and slicing with medium (4mm) disc and a firm push. Then stack slices and insert from underneath food chute with cut edges resting on the disc. Slice into matchsticks with a firm push. Transfer to mixing bowl.

3. Slice bell pepper lengthwise into 1-inch wide strips, insert strips upright in food chute and slice with a gentle push; add to bowl.

4. Cut off broccoli florets and place in vegetable steamer basket. Insert stems upright in food chute and slice into rounds. Add to steamer. Steam broccoli until crisp-tender, usually 2 minutes after water boils. Cool and add to mixing bowl. Pat olives dry and add to bowl.

5. For dressing, insert metal blade in dry food processor container. With machine running, drop garlic through food chute, processing until minced. Add cream cheese and process until smooth. With machine running, pour buttermilk through chute within 20 seconds. Clean container side and process until smooth, 15 seconds longer.

6. Add salt, pepper and hot pepper sauce to taste highly seasoned, as tortellini absorbs flavoring. Toss dressing with salad. Adjust seasoning to taste. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Copyright by Jane Salzfass Freiman. All rights reserved.

Burt Myers' advice to owners of Chesapeake retrievers could well be used to get the fishing conservation message across to some people. The writer/dog trainer says, "You have to whack them over the head with a two-by-four, just to get their attention."

Undoubtedly, you've seen the line-wetters in question. Usually their fish stringers are filled with "hammerhandle" pike, sunfish-size bass and walleyes that wouldn't put a perch to shame.

If they see you toss back a fish, they'll shout: "Jeez Mac, if you don't want it I'll take it."

Such fish hogs are very much in evidence and probably always will be.

However, thanks to education by individuals, the Ministry of Natural Resources, Muskies Canada and the Ontario Federation of Anglers and Hunters (OFAH), their numbers are declining.

It's much easier to teach a neophyte than retrain a lifelong meat hunter to fish for fun, or trophies, or a meal, instead of the freezer.

By presenting certificates and crests to anglers who turn lunge loose to fight another day, Muskies Canada has focused public attention on the fragility of our greatest game fish. Its future is in our hands.

Wall mounts are okay

Members don't fault anyone who keeps a musky for the wall but they almost suffer a seizure at the mere thought of somebody taking one for the table. It's said that some have spread the rumor that passion is poison. To consume is to die.

The principle of letting 'em go has been popularized by the Molson Big Fish Contest, administered by the OFAH. It did so by introducing a live release division, offering the same prizes as awarded in the "catch and keep" category.

For instance, the angler who releases the largest fish of each of nine eligible species wins $150, an Evinrude electric trolling motor and a Mitchell rod and reel. Second- and third-place finishers get cash and tackle, and the next dozen receive Mitchell fishing outfits. In addition, everyone who enters a qualifying catch is given a Michael Dumas wildlife print.

Minimum sizes are: largemouth - 20 inches, smallmouth - 19 inches, pike - 39 inches, muskellunge - 45 inches, walleye - 28 inches, lake trout - 32 inches, rainbow - 24 inches, brook trout - 18 inches and salmon - 29 inches.

A photograph must accompany each entry. The forms are available from taxidermists, tackle shops, lodges, marinas or the OFAH, Box 28, Peterborough K9J 6Y5.

The contest runs to Nov. 30, so it's really too early in the game to predict the outcome. Nevertheless, Dave Newman certainly looks like the man to beat.

So far, the Rexdale sportsman has released the three largest lakers and the leading rainbow trout, plus four others in the top 15.

Muskies Canada president Paul Gasbarino doesn't confine his conservation endeavors to muskellunge. He currently heads the piker parade with a 42 1/2-inch "throwback."

Gasbarino gaffs the fish he intends to release, which sounds like a contradiction. Because handling reduces chances of survival, Gasbarino and his fellow musky men devised a way to set fish free without laying a hand on them or even taking them out of the water.

He explains: "When you work the fish beside the boat, jam the point of the gaff through the tip of the lower jaw, from the inside out. Holding it steady with the gaff, remove the hooks with long-nosed pliers."

If the fish is too spent to take off, Gasbarino revives it by gently cradling it and moving it in the water, forcing oxygen through its gills.

Bass are best handled by grabbing the lower jaw between thumb and forefinger.

Slime repels fungus

If you net fish, try to avoid lifting the net out of the water because the mesh will remove protective slime from a struggling fish, making it vulnerable to fungus attack.

If you have to handle a fish that you plan to release, wear a wet glove. Dry hands remove slime and wet hands mean a harder grip is necessary, which could cause internal injury. By the same token, never grab a fish by the eyes or the gills.

The longer a fish is played, the greater the likelihood of it dying from shock, exhaustion, hemmorhaging or lactic-acid overload. Therefore, it isn't sporting to pursue big fish with ultra-light tackle. Quite the contrary.

It should be noted that a head-first plunge sometimes revives a fish better than more methodical scientific methods.

If a fish is deeply hooked, cut the line. Gastric juices will soon dissolve the metal. Keep fish that are bleeding since the possibility of them recuperating is minuscule.

However, let's not overkill the no-kill concept. A feed of fresh fish following a day on stream or lake is an appetizing aftermath without equal.

Three pickets were charged with mischief and a fourth was injured during a strike at an Etobicoke meat packing plant early today.

The trouble started when trucks tried to get past a picket line, which had been set up in front of Trillium Meats, a division of Steinberg Inc., on Rexdale Rd. at Islington Ave.

Several trucks were damaged and police were called in to restore order as about 70 pickets, members of the United Food and Commercial Workers Local 633, tried to block the road.

One of the trucks hit a striker, but he wasn't seriously hurt.

The pickets, meat cutters and processers, walked off the job about 5 p.m. yesterday. They are seeking a 6.5 per cent increase on an average hourly wage of $11, said union spokesman Joseph Quinn.

He said the company is offering a 3.5 per cent increase.

The workers have been without a contract since June 22 and voted 95-84 to strike yesterday, Quinn said.

Early this morning two cars with workers trying to leave the factory drove at high speeds toward the picket line, but then braked sharply and backed up when pickets grabbed rocks and waved sticks at the motorists.

The motorists then took an alternative route from the factory.

Three pickets were charged with mischief and a fourth was injured during a strike at an Etobicoke meat packing plant early today.

The trouble started when trucks tried to get past a picket line, which had been set up in front of Trillium Meats, a division of Steinberg Inc., on Rexdale Rd. at Islington Ave.

Several trucks were damaged and police were called in to restore order as about 70 pickets, members of the United Food and Commercial Workers Local 633, tried to block the road.

One of the trucks hit a striker, but he wasn't seriously hurt.

The pickets, meat cutters and processers, walked off the job about 5 p.m. yesterday. They are seeking a 6.5 per cent increase on an average hourly wage of $11, said union spokesman Joseph Quinn.

He said the company is offering a 3.5 per cent increase.

The workers have been without a contract since June 22 and voted 95-84 to strike yesterday, Quinn said.

Early this morning two cars with workers trying to leave the factory drove at high speeds toward the picket line, but then braked sharply and backed up when pickets grabbed rocks and waved sticks at the motorists.

The motorists then took an alternative route from the factory.

Grilled ribs in barbecue sauce are one of summer's most memorable meals and thanks to supermarket specials, many families are going to be able to enjoy them for less this week.

Today's recipe for good buys on ribs is adapted from one in The Barbecue Book (Raincoast Ltd., $12.95).

Spit-Roasted Pork Ribs 3 lbs (1.36 kg) pork spareribs

Marinade:

1/2 cup vegetable oil

1/2 cup ketchup

1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce

1/4 cup tomato paste Sauce: 2 tbsp butter 2 medium onions, thinly sliced 1 clove garlic, finely chopped

1/4 lb mushrooms, finely chopped 1 lb (500 g) tomatoes, peeled and chopped

1/4 cup stock or water 2 tsp ketchup 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce 1 tsp prepared English mustard 1 tsp brown sugar

Mix marinade ingredients; pour into a large flat dish. Brush over ribs; leave 4 hours. To make sauce: Cook onions and garlic in butter over medium heat until soft; add mushrooms. Cook 10 minutes; add tomatoes. Cook 5 minutes then add stock, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, mustard and sugar. Simmer uncovered on top of stove or on barbecue until slightly thickened. Set aside and serve with ribs.

Thread spit through meat between ribs. Weave in and out through ribs, if possible, going over and then under two ribs at a time. If this is difficult, do three ribs at a time. Push holding forks well into meat; tighten as much as possible.

Place spit in position so that one flat surface of the meat faces the heat. Leave spit still for 10 to 15 minutes for the meat to brown. Turn other side to heat and brown. Baste well with marinade. Set spit turning and cook 1 hour or until meat is very tender, basting several times. Remove from spit, serve with sauce. Makes 4 servings.

Grilled ribs in barbecue sauce are one of summer's most memorable meals and thanks to supermarket specials, many families are going to be able to enjoy them for less this week.

Today's recipe for good buys on ribs is adapted from one in The Barbecue Book (Raincoast Ltd., $12.95).

Spit-Roasted Pork Ribs 3 lbs (1.36 kg) pork spareribs Marinade:

1/2 cup vegetable oil

1/2 cup ketchup

1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce

1/4 cup tomato paste Sauce: 2 tbsp butter 2 medium onions, thinly sliced 1 clove garlic, finely chopped

1/4 lb mushrooms, finely chopped 1 lb (500 g) tomatoes, peeled and chopped

1/4 cup stock or water 2 tsp ketchup 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce 1 tsp prepared English mustard 1 tsp brown sugar

Mix marinade ingredients; pour into a large flat dish. Brush over ribs; leave 4 hours. To make sauce: Cook onions and garlic in butter over medium heat until soft; add mushrooms. Cook 10 minutes; add tomatoes. Cook 5 minutes then add stock, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, mustard and sugar. Simmer uncovered on top of stove or on barbecue until slightly thickened. Set aside and serve with ribs.

Thread spit through meat between ribs. Weave in and out through ribs, if possible, going over and then under two ribs at a time. If this is difficult, do three ribs at a time. Push holding forks well into meat; tighten as much as possible.

Place spit in position so that one flat surface of the meat faces the heat. Leave spit still for 10 to 15 minutes for the meat to brown. Turn other side to heat and brown. Baste well with marinade. Set spit turning and cook 1 hour or until meat is very tender, basting several times. Remove from spit, serve with sauce. Makes 4 servings.

Grilled ribs in barbecue sauce are one of summer's most memorable meals and thanks to supermarket specials, many families are going to be able to enjoy them for less this week.

Today's recipe for good buys on ribs is adapted from one in The Barbecue Book (Raincoast Ltd., $12.95).

Spit-Roasted Pork Ribs 3 lbs (1.36 kg) pork spareribs Marinade:

1/2 cup vegetable oil

1/2 cup ketchup

1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce

1/4 cup tomato paste Sauce: 2 tbsp butter 2 medium onions, thinly sliced 1 clove garlic, finely chopped

1/4 lb mushrooms, finely chopped 1 lb (500 g) tomatoes, peeled and chopped

1/4 cup stock or water 2 tsp ketchup 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce 1 tsp prepared English mustard 1 tsp brown sugar

Mix marinade ingredients; pour into a large flat dish. Brush over ribs; leave 4 hours. To make sauce: Cook onions and garlic in butter over medium heat until soft; add mushrooms. Cook 10 minutes; add tomatoes. Cook 5 minutes then add stock, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, mustard and sugar. Simmer uncovered on top of stove or on barbecue until slightly thickened. Set aside and serve with ribs.

Thread spit through meat between ribs. Weave in and out through ribs, if possible, going over and then under two ribs at a time. If this is difficult, do three ribs at a time. Push holding forks well into meat; tighten as much as possible.

Place spit in position so that one flat surface of the meat faces the heat. Leave spit still for 10 to 15 minutes for the meat to brown. Turn other side to heat and brown. Baste well with marinade. Set spit turning and cook 1 hour or until meat is very tender, basting several times. Remove from spit, serve with sauce. Makes 4 servings.

Here are the two essential recipes to make a typical Georgian Bay shoreline lunch: The fish batter and Judy Eberspaecher's pork and beans. And Star home economist Mary McGrath has added to the feast by whipping up several alternative dishes to take along in case you 1) don't catch anything or 2) want to make the lunch Georgian Bay Gourmet. Of course, the dishes will be a treat at any casual warm weather meal. Bruno Stella's Fresh Fish Batter

"I learned how to make the batter from an Indian. But the Indians don't use the egg or the sage. The baking powder and beer make it flaky nice," Bruno said. Preparation time: 15 minutes 2 eggs beaten

1/2 cup beer

1/2 tsp vegetable oil 3 sprigs fresh parsley, finely chopped

1/2 tsp garlic power

1/4 tsp baking powder

1/2 tsp onion powder

1/2 tsp sage 3 tbps dried bread crumbs

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

Combine all the ingredients except the flour to form a smooth liquid. Add flour slowly, beating continually. "The batter," according to Bruno, "should not be too thick, nor too liquid. If it's too thick after I put the flour in, I add some Carnation evaporated milk to thin it out a little." It can be made the night before. Makes enough batter for 12 4-ounce pieces of fish, about 62 calories per 1/4 cup. Judy Eberspaecher's Pork And Beans Preparation time: 35 minutes Cooking time: 8 hours 1 lb dried white, Romano, or yellow eye beans Boiling water

1/2 tbsp dry mustard

cup brown sugar

1/4 cup molasses 1 tsp salt

6/8 tsp pepper

1/2 lb salt pork, diced

1 lb spareribs

Soak beans according to package instructions and then parboil them for 1 hour in "plenty of water." Drain and reserve water. Mix beans with the rest of the ingredients except spareribs and put in a 1 1/2 to 2-quart bean crock. Add enough of the reserved water to cover. Bake covered in a 300 degree F oven six hours. Add boiling water when necessary to keep the beans moist.

Uncover the pot and lay spareribs on top of the beans. Cook uncovered for another hour.

For the shoreline lunch, you will have to heat the beans up in a saucepan because the bean crock would probably explode over the hot birch fire.

Will serve six heavy eaters, eight for shoreline lunches with fish. Six servings have 494 calories each and eight have 370. Dilled Artichoke And Rice Salad

Rice or pasta salads with lemon vinaigrette and a touch of dill are crowd pleasers when the catch-of-the-day is on the picnic menu. Preparation time: 45 minutes Chilling time: 2 hours or overnight 1 cup long grain rice Boiling salted water 1 14-oz (398-mL) can artichoke hearts, drained and sliced lengthwise 1 sweet green pepper, seeded and chopped 6 medium-sized mushrooms, sliced, or 1 cup cooked green peas

1/2 to 1 cup pimento-stuffed olives, sliced 3 green onions, chopped

1/4 cup chopped fresh dill Dressing: 1 clove garlic, crushed (optional)

1/4 tsp salt 2 tbsp fresh lemon juice

1/4 tsp Dijon mustard

cup olive or vegetable oil

Freshly ground black pepper

Prepare rice according to package directions. Place cooked rice in a large mixing bowl. Add artichoke hearts, green pepper, mushrooms, olives, onions and dill. Blend garlic and salt, stir in lemon juice and mustard. Gradually beat in oil. Season with pepper. Pour over rice mixture; toss. Chill until serving time. Check seasoning. Makes 8 servings, about 276 calories each. Marinated Vegetable Salad

Give favorite marinated salads a new taste this summer by tossing in a handful of salty olives and pinch of hot pepper. Preparation time: 70 minutes Chilling time: 24 hours 2 to 3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

1/4 to cup white wine vinegar 1 bay leaf 1 tsp dried thyme leaves Pinch hot pepper (optional) 1 cup carrot coins 1 small head cauliflower, broken into florets 1 small bunch broccoli, broken into florets 2 cups thinly sliced mushrooms 1 sweet red pepper, seeded and thinly sliced 1 cup black olives, preferably Kalamata

1 cup oil, preferably olive

Place garlic, vinegar, bay leaf, thyme and hot pepper in a large bowl. Drop carrots in a large pot of boiling water, cook uncovered just until tender, but crisp. Lift from water with a slotted spoon, drain and drop into bowl. Repeat with cauliflower (about 3 cups) and broccoli (about 2 cups). Stir each vegetable into the vinegar mixture while still hot. Then stir in mushrooms, sweet red pepper, olives and oil. Cool to room temperature then refrigerate, covered, for 24 hours. Stir occasionally. Discard bay leaf and adjust seasoning. Remove from marinade with a slotted spoon; serve. Makes 8 servings, about 148 calories each. Picnic Spinach Torte

Tuck a spicy pie like this one in the picnic basket for days when the fish just don't bite. It's also nice as a starter with a variety of mustards and crusty breads. This one has been adapted from a recipe in the Make-Ahead section of America's Best (Saunders, $20.95).

Preparation time: 55 minutes Baking time: 50 minutes

1/2 to 1 lb (250 to 500 g) bulk pork sausage 2 medium onions, chopped 1 slice stale French bread

1/4 cup milk 2 10-oz bags fresh spinach 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 3 eggs, beaten

1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper

1/2 tsp ground sage

1/2 tsp grated nutmeg

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Crumble sausage into a frying pan. Cook, stirring, over medium heat until pink color is gone. Add onion, cook, stirring until soft, about 10 minutes. Set aside to cool in a large bowl. (Force sausage mixture through the medium blade of a food mill or mince in a food processor, if desired). Tear bread into very small pieces. Add crumbs ( 1/2 cup) and milk to meat mixture. Wash spinach and remove stems. Steam until limp, about 3 minutes. Drain well and chop. Add spinach (about 1 cups) and cheese, eggs, pepper, sage and nutmeg to meat mixture. Mix well and spoon mixture into a buttered 9-inch springform pan, pie plate or a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan. Bake uncovered, until set, about 50 minutes. Cool, cover and chill. Bring to room temperature before serving. Makes 10 servings, about 179 calories each when made with a pound of sausage meat. Plum Cake

Pick plums to highlight cake batter for summery desserts instead of gooey icing. Preparation time: 20 minutes Baking time: 35 to 40 minutes Batter:

1/4 cup butter at room temperature

1/4 cup granulated sugar 1 egg 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 1/2 tsp baking powder

1/2 tsp salt

1/4 cup milk 4 to 5 ripe plums, pitted and thinly sliced Topping:

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 tsp ground cinnamon

1/4 tsp grated nutmeg Pinch ground cloves

1/4 cup chilled butter

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Grease and flour an 8-inch square or round cake pan. Cream butter and sugar until light. Beat in egg. Sift dry ingredients together. Beat half into creamed mixture; beat in milk. Beat in remaining flour mixture. Pour batter into pan. Arrange plum slices on top of batter. (Peaches or apples may be used instead of plums.) Bake 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, cut topping ingredients together in a small bowl with a fork. After cake has baked 25 minutes, quickly sprinkle topping mixture over plums. Close oven door, bake for 10 to 15 more minutes or until a cake tester inserted in the centre comes out clean. Makes 12 servings, about 173 calories each. Quick Picnic Pate

This is much more than just a spread or pat to take the edge off appetites at picnics. It's an innovative way to use poultry or ham left over from last night's dinner. Enjoy it with crackers or French bread, hearty mustard and small pickles called cornichons. Preparation time: 15 minutes Chilling time: 2 hours 1 cup shredded or chopped cooked poultry, pork, beef or fish 1 125-g package cream cheese, softened 1 small onion, very finely chopped 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 to 2 tsp chopped anchovy fillets (optional) 1 tsp drained capers (optional) 1 to 2 tsp Worcestershire sauce 1 to 2 tsp dried thyme or dillweed

Freshly ground black pepper

Blend all ingredients, including pepper to taste, just until combined, in a food processor or by hand. Taste and adjust seasoning. Pack into a small crock and refrigerate, covered, at least 2 hours. (Pat in a picnic basket must be kept well-chilled until near serving time.) Makes 1 cups, about 41 calories per tablespoon. Recipes, except those for Bruno Stella's Fresh Fish Batter and Judy Eberspaecher's Pork And Beans, were chosen, adapted and tested by Star home economist Mary McGrath.

Here are the two essential recipes to make a typical Georgian Bay shoreline lunch: The fish batter and Judy Eberspaecher's pork and beans. And Star home economist Mary McGrath has added to the feast by whipping up several alternative dishes to take along in case you 1) don't catch anything or 2) want to make the lunch Georgian Bay Gourmet. Of course, the dishes will be a treat at any casual warm weather meal. Bruno Stella's Fresh Fish Batter

"I learned how to make the batter from an Indian. But the Indians don't use the egg or the sage. The baking powder and beer make it flaky nice," Bruno said. Preparation time: 15 minutes 2 eggs beaten

1/2 cup beer

1/2 tsp vegetable oil 3 sprigs fresh parsley, finely chopped

1/2 tsp garlic power

1/4 tsp baking powder

1/2 tsp onion powder

1/2 tsp sage 3 tbps dried bread crumbs

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

Combine all the ingredients except the flour to form a smooth liquid. Add flour slowly, beating continually. "The batter," according to Bruno, "should not be too thick, nor too liquid. If it's too thick after I put the flour in, I add some Carnation evaporated milk to thin it out a little." It can be made the night before. Makes enough batter for 12 4-ounce pieces of fish, about 62 calories per 1/4 cup. Judy Eberspaecher's Pork And Beans Preparation time: 35 minutes Cooking time: 8 hours 1 lb dried white, Romano, or yellow eye beans Boiling water

1/2 tbsp dry mustard

cup brown sugar

1/4 cup molasses 1 tsp salt

6/8 tsp pepper

1/2 lb salt pork, diced

1 lb spareribs

Soak beans according to package instructions and then parboil them for 1 hour in "plenty of water." Drain and reserve water. Mix beans with the rest of the ingredients except spareribs and put in a 1 1/2 to 2-quart bean crock. Add enough of the reserved water to cover. Bake covered in a 300 degree F oven six hours. Add boiling water when necessary to keep the beans moist.

Uncover the pot and lay spareribs on top of the beans. Cook uncovered for another hour.

For the shoreline lunch, you will have to heat the beans up in a saucepan because the bean crock would probably explode over the hot birch fire.

Will serve six heavy eaters, eight for shoreline lunches with fish. Six servings have 494 calories each and eight have 370. Dilled Artichoke And Rice Salad

Rice or pasta salads with lemon vinaigrette and a touch of dill are crowd pleasers when the catch-of-the-day is on the picnic menu. Preparation time: 45 minutes Chilling time: 2 hours or overnight 1 cup long grain rice Boiling salted water 1 14-oz (398-mL) can artichoke hearts, drained and sliced lengthwise 1 sweet green pepper, seeded and chopped 6 medium-sized mushrooms, sliced, or 1 cup cooked green peas

1/2 to 1 cup pimento-stuffed olives, sliced 3 green onions, chopped

1/4 cup chopped fresh dill Dressing: 1 clove garlic, crushed (optional)

1/4 tsp salt 2 tbsp fresh lemon juice

1/4 tsp Dijon mustard

cup olive or vegetable oil

Freshly ground black pepper

Prepare rice according to package directions. Place cooked rice in a large mixing bowl. Add artichoke hearts, green pepper, mushrooms, olives, onions and dill. Blend garlic and salt, stir in lemon juice and mustard. Gradually beat in oil. Season with pepper. Pour over rice mixture; toss. Chill until serving time. Check seasoning. Makes 8 servings, about 276 calories each. Marinated Vegetable Salad

Give favorite marinated salads a new taste this summer by tossing in a handful of salty olives and pinch of hot pepper. Preparation time: 70 minutes Chilling time: 24 hours 2 to 3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

1/4 to cup white wine vinegar 1 bay leaf 1 tsp dried thyme leaves Pinch hot pepper (optional) 1 cup carrot coins 1 small head cauliflower, broken into florets 1 small bunch broccoli, broken into florets 2 cups thinly sliced mushrooms 1 sweet red pepper, seeded and thinly sliced 1 cup black olives, preferably Kalamata

1 cup oil, preferably olive

Place garlic, vinegar, bay leaf, thyme and hot pepper in a large bowl. Drop carrots in a large pot of boiling water, cook uncovered just until tender, but crisp. Lift from water with a slotted spoon, drain and drop into bowl. Repeat with cauliflower (about 3 cups) and broccoli (about 2 cups). Stir each vegetable into the vinegar mixture while still hot. Then stir in mushrooms, sweet red pepper, olives and oil. Cool to room temperature then refrigerate, covered, for 24 hours. Stir occasionally. Discard bay leaf and adjust seasoning. Remove from marinade with a slotted spoon; serve. Makes 8 servings, about 148 calories each. Picnic Spinach Torte

Tuck a spicy pie like this one in the picnic basket for days when the fish just don't bite. It's also nice as a starter with a variety of mustards and crusty breads. This one has been adapted from a recipe in the Make-Ahead section of America's Best (Saunders, $20.95).

Preparation time: 55 minutes Baking time: 50 minutes

1/2 to 1 lb (250 to 500 g) bulk pork sausage 2 medium onions, chopped 1 slice stale French bread

1/4 cup milk 2 10-oz bags fresh spinach 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 3 eggs, beaten

1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper

1/2 tsp ground sage

1/2 tsp grated nutmeg

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Crumble sausage into a frying pan. Cook, stirring, over medium heat until pink color is gone. Add onion, cook, stirring until soft, about 10 minutes. Set aside to cool in a large bowl. (Force sausage mixture through the medium blade of a food mill or mince in a food processor, if desired). Tear bread into very small pieces. Add crumbs ( 1/2 cup) and milk to meat mixture. Wash spinach and remove stems. Steam until limp, about 3 minutes. Drain well and chop. Add spinach (about 1 cups) and cheese, eggs, pepper, sage and nutmeg to meat mixture. Mix well and spoon mixture into a buttered 9-inch springform pan, pie plate or a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan. Bake uncovered, until set, about 50 minutes. Cool, cover and chill. Bring to room temperature before serving. Makes 10 servings, about 179 calories each when made with a pound of sausage meat. Plum Cake

Pick plums to highlight cake batter for summery desserts instead of gooey icing. Preparation time: 20 minutes Baking time: 35 to 40 minutes Batter:

1/4 cup butter at room temperature

1/4 cup granulated sugar 1 egg 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 1/2 tsp baking powder

1/2 tsp salt

1/4 cup milk 4 to 5 ripe plums, pitted and thinly sliced Topping:

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 tsp ground cinnamon

1/4 tsp grated nutmeg Pinch ground cloves

1/4 cup chilled butter

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Grease and flour an 8-inch square or round cake pan. Cream butter and sugar until light. Beat in egg. Sift dry ingredients together. Beat half into creamed mixture; beat in milk. Beat in remaining flour mixture. Pour batter into pan. Arrange plum slices on top of batter. (Peaches or apples may be used instead of plums.) Bake 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, cut topping ingredients together in a small bowl with a fork. After cake has baked 25 minutes, quickly sprinkle topping mixture over plums. Close oven door, bake for 10 to 15 more minutes or until a cake tester inserted in the centre comes out clean. Makes 12 servings, about 173 calories each. Quick Picnic Pate

This is much more than just a spread or pat to take the edge off appetites at picnics. It's an innovative way to use poultry or ham left over from last night's dinner. Enjoy it with crackers or French bread, hearty mustard and small pickles called cornichons. Preparation time: 15 minutes Chilling time: 2 hours 1 cup shredded or chopped cooked poultry, pork, beef or fish 1 125-g package cream cheese, softened 1 small onion, very finely chopped 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 to 2 tsp chopped anchovy fillets (optional) 1 tsp drained capers (optional) 1 to 2 tsp Worcestershire sauce 1 to 2 tsp dried thyme or dillweed

Freshly ground black pepper

Blend all ingredients, including pepper to taste, just until combined, in a food processor or by hand. Taste and adjust seasoning. Pack into a small crock and refrigerate, covered, at least 2 hours. (Pat in a picnic basket must be kept well-chilled until near serving time.) Makes 1 cups, about 41 calories per tablespoon. Recipes, except those for Bruno Stella's Fresh Fish Batter and Judy Eberspaecher's Pork And Beans, were chosen, adapted and tested by Star home economist Mary McGrath.

Here are the two essential recipes to make a typical Georgian Bay shoreline lunch: The fish batter and Judy Eberspaecher's pork and beans. And Star home economist Mary McGrath has added to the feast by whipping up several alternative dishes to take along in case you 1) don't catch anything or 2) want to make the lunch Georgian Bay Gourmet. Of course, the dishes will be a treat at any casual warm weather meal. Bruno Stella's Fresh Fish Batter

"I learned how to make the batter from an Indian. But the Indians don't use the egg or the sage. The baking powder and beer make it flaky nice," Bruno said. Preparation time: 15 minutes 2 eggs beaten

1/2 cup beer

1/2 tsp vegetable oil 3 sprigs fresh parsley, finely chopped

1/2 tsp garlic power

1/4 tsp baking powder

1/2 tsp onion powder

1/2 tsp sage 3 tbps dried bread crumbs

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

Combine all the ingredients except the flour to form a smooth liquid. Add flour slowly, beating continually. "The batter," according to Bruno, "should not be too thick, nor too liquid. If it's too thick after I put the flour in, I add some Carnation evaporated milk to thin it out a little." It can be made the night before. Makes enough batter for 12 4-ounce pieces of fish, about 62 calories per 1/4 cup. Judy Eberspaecher's Pork And Beans Preparation time: 35 minutes Cooking time: 8 hours 1 lb dried white, Romano, or yellow eye beans Boiling water

1/2 tbsp dry mustard

cup brown sugar

1/4 cup molasses 1 tsp salt

6/8 tsp pepper

1/2 lb salt pork, diced

1 lb spareribs

Soak beans according to package instructions and then parboil them for 1 hour in "plenty of water." Drain and reserve water. Mix beans with the rest of the ingredients except spareribs and put in a 1 1/2 to 2-quart bean crock. Add enough of the reserved water to cover. Bake covered in a 300 degree F oven six hours. Add boiling water when necessary to keep the beans moist.

Uncover the pot and lay spareribs on top of the beans. Cook uncovered for another hour.

For the shoreline lunch, you will have to heat the beans up in a saucepan because the bean crock would probably explode over the hot birch fire.

Will serve six heavy eaters, eight for shoreline lunches with fish. Six servings have 494 calories each and eight have 370. Dilled Artichoke And Rice Salad

Rice or pasta salads with lemon vinaigrette and a touch of dill are crowd pleasers when the catch-of-the-day is on the picnic menu. Preparation time: 45 minutes Chilling time: 2 hours or overnight 1 cup long grain rice Boiling salted water 1 14-oz (398-mL) can artichoke hearts, drained and sliced lengthwise 1 sweet green pepper, seeded and chopped 6 medium-sized mushrooms, sliced, or 1 cup cooked green peas

1/2 to 1 cup pimento-stuffed olives, sliced 3 green onions, chopped

1/4 cup chopped fresh dill Dressing: 1 clove garlic, crushed (optional)

1/4 tsp salt 2 tbsp fresh lemon juice

1/4 tsp Dijon mustard

cup olive or vegetable oil

Freshly ground black pepper

Prepare rice according to package directions. Place cooked rice in a large mixing bowl. Add artichoke hearts, green pepper, mushrooms, olives, onions and dill. Blend garlic and salt, stir in lemon juice and mustard. Gradually beat in oil. Season with pepper. Pour over rice mixture; toss. Chill until serving time. Check seasoning. Makes 8 servings, about 276 calories each. Marinated Vegetable Salad

Give favorite marinated salads a new taste this summer by tossing in a handful of salty olives and pinch of hot pepper. Preparation time: 70 minutes Chilling time: 24 hours 2 to 3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

1/4 to cup white wine vinegar 1 bay leaf 1 tsp dried thyme leaves Pinch hot pepper (optional) 1 cup carrot coins 1 small head cauliflower, broken into florets 1 small bunch broccoli, broken into florets 2 cups thinly sliced mushrooms 1 sweet red pepper, seeded and thinly sliced 1 cup black olives, preferably Kalamata

1 cup oil, preferably olive

Place garlic, vinegar, bay leaf, thyme and hot pepper in a large bowl. Drop carrots in a large pot of boiling water, cook uncovered just until tender, but crisp. Lift from water with a slotted spoon, drain and drop into bowl. Repeat with cauliflower (about 3 cups) and broccoli (about 2 cups). Stir each vegetable into the vinegar mixture while still hot. Then stir in mushrooms, sweet red pepper, olives and oil. Cool to room temperature then refrigerate, covered, for 24 hours. Stir occasionally. Discard bay leaf and adjust seasoning. Remove from marinade with a slotted spoon; serve. Makes 8 servings, about 148 calories each. Picnic Spinach Torte

Tuck a spicy pie like this one in the picnic basket for days when the fish just don't bite. It's also nice as a starter with a variety of mustards and crusty breads. This one has been adapted from a recipe in the Make-Ahead section of America's Best (Saunders, $20.95).

Preparation time: 55 minutes Baking time: 50 minutes

1/2 to 1 lb (250 to 500 g) bulk pork sausage 2 medium onions, chopped 1 slice stale French bread

1/4 cup milk 2 10-oz bags fresh spinach 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 3 eggs, beaten

1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper

1/2 tsp ground sage

1/2 tsp grated nutmeg

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Crumble sausage into a frying pan. Cook, stirring, over medium heat until pink color is gone. Add onion, cook, stirring until soft, about 10 minutes. Set aside to cool in a large bowl. (Force sausage mixture through the medium blade of a food mill or mince in a food processor, if desired). Tear bread into very small pieces. Add crumbs ( 1/2 cup) and milk to meat mixture. Wash spinach and remove stems. Steam until limp, about 3 minutes. Drain well and chop. Add spinach (about 1 cups) and cheese, eggs, pepper, sage and nutmeg to meat mixture. Mix well and spoon mixture into a buttered 9-inch springform pan, pie plate or a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan. Bake uncovered, until set, about 50 minutes. Cool, cover and chill. Bring to room temperature before serving. Makes 10 servings, about 179 calories each when made with a pound of sausage meat. Plum Cake

Pick plums to highlight cake batter for summery desserts instead of gooey icing. Preparation time: 20 minutes Baking time: 35 to 40 minutes Batter:

1/4 cup butter at room temperature

1/4 cup granulated sugar 1 egg 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 1/2 tsp baking powder

1/2 tsp salt

1/4 cup milk 4 to 5 ripe plums, pitted and thinly sliced Topping:

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 tsp ground cinnamon

1/4 tsp grated nutmeg Pinch ground cloves

1/4 cup chilled butter

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Grease and flour an 8-inch square or round cake pan. Cream butter and sugar until light. Beat in egg. Sift dry ingredients together. Beat half into creamed mixture; beat in milk. Beat in remaining flour mixture. Pour batter into pan. Arrange plum slices on top of batter. (Peaches or apples may be used instead of plums.) Bake 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, cut topping ingredients together in a small bowl with a fork. After cake has baked 25 minutes, quickly sprinkle topping mixture over plums. Close oven door, bake for 10 to 15 more minutes or until a cake tester inserted in the centre comes out clean. Makes 12 servings, about 173 calories each. Quick Picnic Pate

This is much more than just a spread or pat to take the edge off appetites at picnics. It's an innovative way to use poultry or ham left over from last night's dinner. Enjoy it with crackers or French bread, hearty mustard and small pickles called cornichons. Preparation time: 15 minutes Chilling time: 2 hours 1 cup shredded or chopped cooked poultry, pork, beef or fish 1 125-g package cream cheese, softened 1 small onion, very finely chopped 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 to 2 tsp chopped anchovy fillets (optional) 1 tsp drained capers (optional) 1 to 2 tsp Worcestershire sauce 1 to 2 tsp dried thyme or dillweed

Freshly ground black pepper

Blend all ingredients, including pepper to taste, just until combined, in a food processor or by hand. Taste and adjust seasoning. Pack into a small crock and refrigerate, covered, at least 2 hours. (Pat in a picnic basket must be kept well-chilled until near serving time.) Makes 1 cups, about 41 calories per tablespoon. Recipes, except those for Bruno Stella's Fresh Fish Batter and Judy Eberspaecher's Pork And Beans, were chosen, adapted and tested by Star home economist Mary McGrath.

Bruno Stella emptied the contents of a plastic bowl into a 20-inch fry pan radiating heat on a northern rocky finger of land. Within seconds, white smoke saturated with the scent of sizzling onions and crackling birch swirled around in the shifting wind and hit you in the face no matter where you stood.

Dja vu.

A smell like that seeps to the back of your brain where memories of campfires lie dormant. The smell never changes: It's a sweet smell, a smell that signals the start of a shoreline lunch of fish dragged up from the weeds of an inlet minutes before under the heat of a cloudless Georgian Bay noon.

Bruno Stella loves water. Born and raised on Italy's Adriatic coast, he eats "anything that swims . . . . And if I don't see water every day, something's the matter." He's a fisherman - a pleasure fisherman now, but once he did it for a living.

Through the intervention of outdoors writer and wine columnist Alex Eberspaecher, he agreed to act as a guide one more time. (After the experience with me, however, he may never do it again. See the Between Bites column, page D2.)

But there's more to Stella. He is, you see, a master shoreline cook. I heard about him from Eberspaecher, who had tasted the results of Stella's talent years before in the same area near Pointe Au Baril north of Parry Sound. It was the best, said Eberspaecher, a man not given to superlatives.

I confronted Stella with his reputation several weeks ago. "Ah, well, you know it's nothing special," he said, "It's just the outdoors. It does something for the food."

Stella moved to Pointe Au Baril from Toronto 12 years ago. He ran a bait shop at one time and a marina at another but "I didn't have enough time to go fishing." He guided for four years but gave that up, too. Now he drives a school bus during the winter and runs a taxidermy business out of his home. He fishes for pleasure.

Now, having a shoreline lunch isn't as easy as it sounds. First you have to catch something and fishing in the Georgian Bay area isn't what it used to be. The area has been over-fished, both commercially and for sport, says Stella. The decline has prompted the Pointe Au Baril community to start a hatchery with the help of the natural resources ministry. But although you can no longer dip in your line anywhere and pull out a good sized bass, the area is still prime water. And with the exception of the biggest fish, published ministry tests indicate they are safe to eat.

It helps to have Stella along when you go fishing, although the day before the wind shifted from the west to the north and Stella was skunked. "When a cold front comes in, the fish don't bite. They won't bite for a day, a day and a half."

At 10.30 a.m. I fell into Stella's 16-foot aluminum boat, and along with two of his sons, 12-year-old Bernie and 23-year-old photography student Steve, we headed out of Pointe au Baril to the open water and back down into a channel Stella was convinced would produce lunch.

It did.

Experts estimate the northern pike is between 10 million and 120 million years old and probably came to North America via Russia during a glacial period. It's long, speckled on the top of its body, and creamy white underneath. Its snout is ugly, its teeth razor sharp. And it's strong. The largest one caught in Ontario was slightly more than 40 pounds but the average pike runs between five and 10 pounds.

When a pike hits a lure in its muddy, weedy home, you don't have to set the hook with a jerk of the line. It bites down and then fights like hell.

Bernie's rod took a sudden lunge toward the water at 11.30 that morning. His Twin Dragon Kung Fu Club hat stayed on as he reeled in the first pike of the day like a pro. It took Steve three minutes to get the hooks out with a pair of pliers before his father put it on a stringer over the side of the boat. Only then did Bernie shoot a smile at us.

Twelve minutes passed before Bruno Stella's line squealed. The pike took the Rapella to the murky bottom and thrashed in and out of the weeds. "Most people get too excited," said Stella. "You've got to play with the fish . . . You can't try and get it into the boat too quickly."

He handed me the rod and told me to keep the line taut. "Reel in." I did. A larger pike than Bernie's came over the side of the boat secured in the net held by Bruno. No sooner was it on the bottom of the aluminum boat than it spit the hooks out. Ugly fish. Almost got away. Steve put his foot on it.

A little while later, Steve hooked a smallmouth bass. We had more than enough for lunch.

Most people I know say pike is too bony to eat. I've said it myself. Friends of mine, the Armstrongs, take pike meat, mince it, mix it with tapioca and seasonings, roll spoonfuls up in bread crumbs and call them pike balls. Deep fried, they are amazing. But it takes Heather Armstrong hours to sift out all the bones.

It took Bruno Stella 2 minutes and 51 seconds to fillet the smaller pike and cut it into six pieces. "Too slow," he said. "I cut the (back) bone." He did the larger pike in 1 minute and 18 seconds. I couldn't reset the stop watch fast enough to time the bass. The pike had very few bones left in.

To fillet the fish, Stella makes a diagonal cut just under the pectoral fin (where the arms would be) at a 45 degree angle towards the head to the backbone, but does not sever it. Then he cuts towards the tail with the sharp knife blade flat to the backbone. Meat comes away intact. With fillet skin side down, holding the tail, Stella cuts between the flesh and the skin and discards skin. He then cuts out the rib cage and bones.

After filleting the fish, he piled rocks into a horsehoe shape on the bald top of the point near the end of the channel. He brought a large heavy grill and put it on top of the rocks, then made a fire of birch bark and kindling, to which he added larger pieces of birch when the fire was roaring. His fry pan looked like it came from the Friendly Giant's kitchen - 20 inches across, two inches deep. Two pounds of lard melted quickly; when it was hot, in went one large chopped Spanish onion and the smells started wafting.

Stella put an open can of beans, still in the can, beside the fire where sticks of birch were added periodically to keep the flames hot. In about 10 minutes, the beans were bubbling.

Once the onions were golden brown in the lard, Stella added two pounds of parboiled and sliced new potatoes with the skins on. "You've got to have a hot fire or the potatoes get greasy," he said. "It's got to sizzle."

One of the rocks forming the fire sides cracked in the heat, sending a silver-dollar sized piece flying out. The lard was hot enough.

About 20 minutes later, when the potatoes were brown and crispy on the outside, Steve spooned them into a smaller cast iron frying pan on the side of the grill to keep warm. Stella sprinkled a little salt over them and then picked up the bowl in which the fish fillets had been wallowing in his special seasoned beer and egg batter made the night before. Stella slipped each fillet into the hot lard. The coating browned beautifully.

Ten minutes later we were sitting around a plastic coated ground sheet eating one of the most satisfying lunches imaginable.

"This," said Stella, "is a typical Georgian Bay shoreline lunch - the beans, the potatoes, the fish."

Typical, perhaps. Simple, yes. But boring it wasn't. The fish batter was light and delicious and the fish inside each packet can only be described as heaven. Eberspaecher was right. It was the best.

PIX 1

Catching the fish: Star food writer David Kingsmill didn't really catch this pike. Bruno Stella did, and then handed Kingsmill the fishing rod while he snagged the catch in his net.

Pic 2:

Filleting the fish: Bruno Stella makes a diagonal cut just under the pectoral fin at a 45 degree angle towards the head to the backbone, then he cuts towards the tail, above, with the sharp knife blade flat to the backbone.

Pic 3:

Preparing to cook: Stella cut each pike into six pieces for the shoreline lunch. He then dunked all the pieces into his unbeatable beer/egg batter leaving them in the bowl until the potatoes were done and the lard hot.

Pic 4:

Cooking the catch: In a matter of minutes, the batter puffs up slightly and turns a golden brown in the hot lard. The fire has to be kept hot, says Stella, or the lard will make the food greasy.

Bruno Stella emptied the contents of a plastic bowl into a 20-inch fry pan radiating heat on a northern rocky finger of land. Within seconds, white smoke saturated with the scent of sizzling onions and crackling birch swirled around in the shifting wind and hit you in the face no matter where you stood.

Dja vu.

A smell like that seeps to the back of your brain where memories of campfires lie dormant. The smell never changes: It's a sweet smell, a smell that signals the start of a shoreline lunch of fish dragged up from the weeds of an inlet minutes before under the heat of a cloudless Georgian Bay noon.

Bruno Stella loves water. Born and raised on Italy's Adriatic coast, he eats "anything that swims . . . . And if I don't see water every day, something's the matter." He's a fisherman - a pleasure fisherman now, but once he did it for a living.

Through the intervention of outdoors writer and wine columnist Alex Eberspaecher, he agreed to act as a guide one more time. (After the experience with me, however, he may never do it again. See the Between Bites column, page D2.)

But there's more to Stella. He is, you see, a master shoreline cook. I heard about him from Eberspaecher, who had tasted the results of Stella's talent years before in the same area near Pointe Au Baril north of Parry Sound. It was the best, said Eberspaecher, a man not given to superlatives.

I confronted Stella with his reputation several weeks ago. "Ah, well, you know it's nothing special," he said, "It's just the outdoors. It does something for the food."

Stella moved to Pointe Au Baril from Toronto 12 years ago. He ran a bait shop at one time and a marina at another but "I didn't have enough time to go fishing." He guided for four years but gave that up, too. Now he drives a school bus during the winter and runs a taxidermy business out of his home. He fishes for pleasure.

Now, having a shoreline lunch isn't as easy as it sounds. First you have to catch something and fishing in the Georgian Bay area isn't what it used to be. The area has been over-fished, both commercially and for sport, says Stella. The decline has prompted the Pointe Au Baril community to start a hatchery with the help of the natural resources ministry. But although you can no longer dip in your line anywhere and pull out a good sized bass, the area is still prime water. And with the exception of the biggest fish, published ministry tests indicate they are safe to eat.

It helps to have Stella along when you go fishing, although the day before the wind shifted from the west to the north and Stella was skunked. "When a cold front comes in, the fish don't bite. They won't bite for a day, a day and a half."

At 10.30 a.m. I fell into Stella's 16-foot aluminum boat, and along with two of his sons, 12-year-old Bernie and 23-year-old photography student Steve, we headed out of Pointe au Baril to the open water and back down into a channel Stella was convinced would produce lunch.

It did.

Experts estimate the northern pike is between 10 million and 120 million years old and probably came to North America via Russia during a glacial period. It's long, speckled on the top of its body, and creamy white underneath. Its snout is ugly, its teeth razor sharp. And it's strong. The largest one caught in Ontario was slightly more than 40 pounds but the average pike runs between five and 10 pounds.

When a pike hits a lure in its muddy, weedy home, you don't have to set the hook with a jerk of the line. It bites down and then fights like hell.

Bernie's rod took a sudden lunge toward the water at 11.30 that morning. His Twin Dragon Kung Fu Club hat stayed on as he reeled in the first pike of the day like a pro. It took Steve three minutes to get the hooks out with a pair of pliers before his father put it on a stringer over the side of the boat. Only then did Bernie shoot a smile at us.

Twelve minutes passed before Bruno Stella's line squealed. The pike took the Rapella to the murky bottom and thrashed in and out of the weeds. "Most people get too excited," said Stella. "You've got to play with the fish . . . You can't try and get it into the boat too quickly."

He handed me the rod and told me to keep the line taut. "Reel in." I did. A larger pike than Bernie's came over the side of the boat secured in the net held by Bruno. No sooner was it on the bottom of the aluminum boat than it spit the hooks out. Ugly fish. Almost got away. Steve put his foot on it.

A little while later, Steve hooked a smallmouth bass. We had more than enough for lunch.

Most people I know say pike is too bony to eat. I've said it myself. Friends of mine, the Armstrongs, take pike meat, mince it, mix it with tapioca and seasonings, roll spoonfuls up in bread crumbs and call them pike balls. Deep fried, they are amazing. But it takes Heather Armstrong hours to sift out all the bones.

It took Bruno Stella 2 minutes and 51 seconds to fillet the smaller pike and cut it into six pieces. "Too slow," he said. "I cut the (back) bone." He did the larger pike in 1 minute and 18 seconds. I couldn't reset the stop watch fast enough to time the bass. The pike had very few bones left in.

To fillet the fish, Stella makes a diagonal cut just under the pectoral fin (where the arms would be) at a 45 degree angle towards the head to the backbone, but does not sever it. Then he cuts towards the tail with the sharp knife blade flat to the backbone. Meat comes away intact. With fillet skin side down, holding the tail, Stella cuts between the flesh and the skin and discards skin. He then cuts out the rib cage and bones.

After filleting the fish, he piled rocks into a horsehoe shape on the bald top of the point near the end of the channel. He brought a large heavy grill and put it on top of the rocks, then made a fire of birch bark and kindling, to which he added larger pieces of birch when the fire was roaring. His fry pan looked like it came from the Friendly Giant's kitchen - 20 inches across, two inches deep. Two pounds of lard melted quickly; when it was hot, in went one large chopped Spanish onion and the smells started wafting.

Stella put an open can of beans, still in the can, beside the fire where sticks of birch were added periodically to keep the flames hot. In about 10 minutes, the beans were bubbling.

Once the onions were golden brown in the lard, Stella added two pounds of parboiled and sliced new potatoes with the skins on. "You've got to have a hot fire or the potatoes get greasy," he said. "It's got to sizzle."

One of the rocks forming the fire sides cracked in the heat, sending a silver-dollar sized piece flying out. The lard was hot enough.

About 20 minutes later, when the potatoes were brown and crispy on the outside, Steve spooned them into a smaller cast iron frying pan on the side of the grill to keep warm. Stella sprinkled a little salt over them and then picked up the bowl in which the fish fillets had been wallowing in his special seasoned beer and egg batter made the night before. Stella slipped each fillet into the hot lard. The coating browned beautifully.

Ten minutes later we were sitting around a plastic coated ground sheet eating one of the most satisfying lunches imaginable.

"This," said Stella, "is a typical Georgian Bay shoreline lunch - the beans, the potatoes, the fish."

Typical, perhaps. Simple, yes. But boring it wasn't. The fish batter was light and delicious and the fish inside each packet can only be described as heaven. Eberspaecher was right. It was the best.

PIX 1

Catching the fish: Star food writer David Kingsmill didn't really catch this pike. Bruno Stella did, and then handed Kingsmill the fishing rod while he snagged the catch in his net.

Pic 2:

Filleting the fish: Bruno Stella makes a diagonal cut just under the pectoral fin at a 45 degree angle towards the head to the backbone, then he cuts towards the tail, above, with the sharp knife blade flat to the backbone.

Pic 3:

Preparing to cook: Stella cut each pike into six pieces for the shoreline lunch. He then dunked all the pieces into his unbeatable beer/egg batter leaving them in the bowl until the potatoes were done and the lard hot.

Pic 4:

Cooking the catch: In a matter of minutes, the batter puffs up slightly and turns a golden brown in the hot lard. The fire has to be kept hot, says Stella, or the lard will make the food greasy.

Every day, people in cars and delivery trucks do battle in Metro for a prize more elusive than gold: a parking spot in bustling Kensington Market.

"Driving is a nightmare here," Eddie Severiano said as he watched two trucks compete for a spot in front of European Quality Meats on Baldwin St.

Businesses in Kensington thrive on selling fresh meat, cheese and produce, but because there are no delivery lanes behind the stores, a day-long parade of trucks and vans must unload goods on crowded streets.

But relief is on the way.

Alderman Jack Layton, who represents the area, said merchants are caught in a "catch-22" of wanting the customers but not wanting their cars in the area.

"The only solution that will work is to provide new parking spaces around Kensington," he said.

"Dramatic improvement'

With two floors being added to the Baldwin St. lot in the spring and two new lots in the works at the corner of Spadina Ave. and Dundas St., Layton said things will get better. Those additions, combined with the 350-space garage that is soon to open at nearby Toronto Western Hospital, will add about 800 new spots to the area.

"We're going from an existing 180 parking spaces to 1,000 in 18 months. That's a pretty dramatic improvement and is going to make a tremendous difference," he said.

A 1974 traffic flow survey done by the city shows that almost 1,000 trucks - 18 per cent of all vehicles using the area - drive into Kensington each day. It's considered excessive when more than 5 per cent of traffic in any one area is made up of commercial vehicles, says Jim Pryer, transportation co-ordinator for Toronto's public works department.

"That survey was a few years ago but I don't think the situation has changed. It might even be worse," he said.

"I've been delivering in the area for 13 years," said meat truck driver Nick Novak. "It was bad when I started but it's worse now. I wouldn't come down here unless I had to."

"Happy balance'

Cars, vans and trucks park beside fire hydrants, on corners and even on sidewalks. On a recent day, although parking is forbidden on the south side of Baldwin St. and the west side of Kensington Ave., both were lined with vehicles.

"We do issue tags in there, but we don't do it fanatically," said Metro police Staff Sergeant Grenville Dawkins of 14 Division.

"If we tag cars, merchants complain that we're chasing away their customers. If we don't, they complain that they can't get their deliveries. We try to strike a happy balance while keeping the intersections clear for emergency vehicles," he said.

Many of the truck drivers interviewed by The Star said they had friends or store owners park cars in spots early in the morning and hold them until the time of their delivery.

Every day, people in cars and delivery trucks do battle in Metro for a prize more elusive than gold: a parking spot in bustling Kensington Market.

"Driving is a nightmare here," Eddie Severiano said as he watched two trucks compete for a spot in front of European Quality Meats on Baldwin St.

Businesses in Kensington thrive on selling fresh meat, cheese and produce, but because there are no delivery lanes behind the stores, a day-long parade of trucks and vans must unload goods on crowded streets.

But relief is on the way.

Alderman Jack Layton, who represents the area, said merchants are caught in a "catch-22" of wanting the customers but not wanting their cars in the area.

"The only solution that will work is to provide new parking spaces around Kensington," he said.

"Dramatic improvement'

With two floors being added to the Baldwin St. lot in the spring and two new lots in the works at the corner of Spadina Ave. and Dundas St., Layton said things will get better. Those additions, combined with the 350-space garage that is soon to open at nearby Toronto Western Hospital, will add about 800 new spots to the area.

"We're going from an existing 180 parking spaces to 1,000 in 18 months. That's a pretty dramatic improvement and is going to make a tremendous difference," he said.

A 1974 traffic flow survey done by the city shows that almost 1,000 trucks - 18 per cent of all vehicles using the area - drive into Kensington each day. It's considered excessive when more than 5 per cent of traffic in any one area is made up of commercial vehicles, says Jim Pryer, transportation co-ordinator for Toronto's public works department.

"That survey was a few years ago but I don't think the situation has changed. It might even be worse," he said.

"I've been delivering in the area for 13 years," said meat truck driver Nick Novak. "It was bad when I started but it's worse now. I wouldn't come down here unless I had to."

"Happy balance'

Cars, vans and trucks park beside fire hydrants, on corners and even on sidewalks. On a recent day, although parking is forbidden on the south side of Baldwin St. and the west side of Kensington Ave., both were lined with vehicles.

"We do issue tags in there, but we don't do it fanatically," said Metro police Staff Sergeant Grenville Dawkins of 14 Division.

"If we tag cars, merchants complain that we're chasing away their customers. If we don't, they complain that they can't get their deliveries. We try to strike a happy balance while keeping the intersections clear for emergency vehicles," he said.

Many of the truck drivers interviewed by The Star said they had friends or store owners park cars in spots early in the morning and hold them until the time of their delivery.

Bruno Stella emptied the contents of a plastic bowl into a 20-inch fry pan radiating heat on a northern rocky finger of land. Within seconds, white smoke saturated with the scent of sizzling onions and crackling birch swirled around in the shifting wind and hit you in the face no matter where you stood.

Dja vu.

A smell like that seeps to the back of your brain where memories of campfires lie dormant. The smell never changes: It's a sweet smell, a smell that signals the start of a shoreline lunch of fish dragged up from the weeds of an inlet minutes before under the heat of a cloudless Georgian Bay noon.

Bruno Stella loves water. Born and raised on Italy's Adriatic coast, he eats "anything that swims . . . . And if I don't see water every day, something's the matter." He's a fisherman - a pleasure fisherman now, but once he did it for a living.

Through the intervention of outdoors writer and wine columnist Alex Eberspaecher, he agreed to act as a guide one more time. (After the experience with me, however, he may never do it again. See the Between Bites column, page D2.)

But there's more to Stella. He is, you see, a master shoreline cook. I heard about him from Eberspaecher, who had tasted the results of Stella's talent years before in the same area near Pointe Au Baril north of Parry Sound. It was the best, said Eberspaecher, a man not given to superlatives.

I confronted Stella with his reputation several weeks ago. "Ah, well, you know it's nothing special," he said, "It's just the outdoors. It does something for the food."

Stella moved to Pointe Au Baril from Toronto 12 years ago. He ran a bait shop at one time and a marina at another but "I didn't have enough time to go fishing." He guided for four years but gave that up, too. Now he drives a school bus during the winter and runs a taxidermy business out of his home. He fishes for pleasure.

Now, having a shoreline lunch isn't as easy as it sounds. First you have to catch something and fishing in the Georgian Bay area isn't what it used to be. The area has been over-fished, both commercially and for sport, says Stella. The decline has prompted the Pointe Au Baril community to start a hatchery with the help of the natural resources ministry. But although you can no longer dip in your line anywhere and pull out a good sized bass, the area is still prime water. And with the exception of the biggest fish, published ministry tests indicate they are safe to eat.

It helps to have Stella along when you go fishing, although the day before the wind shifted from the west to the north and Stella was skunked. "When a cold front comes in, the fish don't bite. They won't bite for a day, a day and a half."

At 10.30 a.m. I fell into Stella's 16-foot aluminum boat, and along with two of his sons, 12-year-old Bernie and 23-year-old photography student Steve, we headed out of Pointe au Baril to the open water and back down into a channel Stella was convinced would produce lunch.

It did.

Experts estimate the northern pike is between 10 million and 120 million years old and probably came to North America via Russia during a glacial period. It's long, speckled on the top of its body, and creamy white underneath. Its snout is ugly, its teeth razor sharp. And it's strong. The largest one caught in Ontario was slightly more than 40 pounds but the average pike runs between five and 10 pounds.

When a pike hits a lure in its muddy, weedy home, you don't have to set the hook with a jerk of the line. It bites down and then fights like hell.

Bernie's rod took a sudden lunge toward the water at 11.30 that morning. His Twin Dragon Kung Fu Club hat stayed on as he reeled in the first pike of the day like a pro. It took Steve three minutes to get the hooks out with a pair of pliers before his father put it on a stringer over the side of the boat. Only then did Bernie shoot a smile at us.

Twelve minutes passed before Bruno Stella's line squealed. The pike took the Rapella to the murky bottom and thrashed in and out of the weeds. "Most people get too excited," said Stella. "You've got to play with the fish . . . You can't try and get it into the boat too quickly."

He handed me the rod and told me to keep the line taut. "Reel in." I did. A larger pike than Bernie's came over the side of the boat secured in the net held by Bruno. No sooner was it on the bottom of the aluminum boat than it spit the hooks out. Ugly fish. Almost got away. Steve put his foot on it.

A little while later, Steve hooked a smallmouth bass. We had more than enough for lunch.

Most people I know say pike is too bony to eat. I've said it myself. Friends of mine, the Armstrongs, take pike meat, mince it, mix it with tapioca and seasonings, roll spoonfuls up in bread crumbs and call them pike balls. Deep fried, they are amazing. But it takes Heather Armstrong hours to sift out all the bones.

It took Bruno Stella 2 minutes and 51 seconds to fillet the smaller pike and cut it into six pieces. "Too slow," he said. "I cut the (back) bone." He did the larger pike in 1 minute and 18 seconds. I couldn't reset the stop watch fast enough to time the bass. The pike had very few bones left in.

To fillet the fish, Stella makes a diagonal cut just under the pectoral fin (where the arms would be) at a 45 degree angle towards the head to the backbone, but does not sever it. Then he cuts towards the tail with the sharp knife blade flat to the backbone. Meat comes away intact. With fillet skin side down, holding the tail, Stella cuts between the flesh and the skin and discards skin. He then cuts out the rib cage and bones.

After filleting the fish, he piled rocks into a horsehoe shape on the bald top of the point near the end of the channel. He brought a large heavy grill and put it on top of the rocks, then made a fire of birch bark and kindling, to which he added larger pieces of birch when the fire was roaring. His fry pan looked like it came from the Friendly Giant's kitchen - 20 inches across, two inches deep. Two pounds of lard melted quickly; when it was hot, in went one large chopped Spanish onion and the smells started wafting.

Stella put an open can of beans, still in the can, beside the fire where sticks of birch were added periodically to keep the flames hot. In about 10 minutes, the beans were bubbling.

Once the onions were golden brown in the lard, Stella added two pounds of parboiled and sliced new potatoes with the skins on. "You've got to have a hot fire or the potatoes get greasy," he said. "It's got to sizzle."

One of the rocks forming the fire sides cracked in the heat, sending a silver-dollar sized piece flying out. The lard was hot enough.

About 20 minutes later, when the potatoes were brown and crispy on the outside, Steve spooned them into a smaller cast iron frying pan on the side of the grill to keep warm. Stella sprinkled a little salt over them and then picked up the bowl in which the fish fillets had been wallowing in his special seasoned beer and egg batter made the night before. Stella slipped each fillet into the hot lard. The coating browned beautifully.

Ten minutes later we were sitting around a plastic coated ground sheet eating one of the most satisfying lunches imaginable.

"This," said Stella, "is a typical Georgian Bay shoreline lunch - the beans, the potatoes, the fish."

Typical, perhaps. Simple, yes. But boring it wasn't. The fish batter was light and delicious and the fish inside each packet can only be described as heaven. Eberspaecher was right. It was the best.

PIX 1

Catching the fish: Star food writer David Kingsmill didn't really catch this pike. Bruno Stella did, and then handed Kingsmill the fishing rod while he snagged the catch in his net.

Pic 2:

Filleting the fish: Bruno Stella makes a diagonal cut just under the pectoral fin at a 45 degree angle towards the head to the backbone, then he cuts towards the tail, above, with the sharp knife blade flat to the backbone.

Pic 3:

Preparing to cook: Stella cut each pike into six pieces for the shoreline lunch. He then dunked all the pieces into his unbeatable beer/egg batter leaving them in the bowl until the potatoes were done and the lard hot.

Pic 4:

Cooking the catch: In a matter of minutes, the batter puffs up slightly and turns a golden brown in the hot lard. The fire has to be kept hot, says Stella, or the lard will make the food greasy.

Provincial trade wars are hurting Canada's farmers and must be stopped, says Ontario Agriculture Minister Jack Riddell.

Riddell said in a telephone interview yesterday from Exeter he is upset over recent amendments to the new federal-provincial red meat stabilization program.

He said they will permit the provinces to continue the unfair practice of giving additional subsidies to their producers.

The straight-talking Liberal MPP for Huron-Middlesex is preparing for next week's federal-provincial agriculture ministers' conference in St. John's, Nfld.

Although he'll be the only Liberal among the 11 ministers sitting at the table, Riddell said he is confident he can persuade the other members to stop piling on agricultural subsidies.

He wants his fellow ministers to return to the tougher measures included in the original tripartite stabilization program proposed by Ontario, the three Prairie provinces and the federal government almost two years ago.

"I'm going to tell (federal minister) John Wise and the other ministers if we don't get rid of these provincial programs, we can look forward to more and heavier countervailing duties on our exports to the United States," he said.

Riddell said duties on Canadian agricultural goods, such as the recent International Trade Commission tariff on hogs and pork entering the U.S., hit Ontario's farmers hardest because they are so dependent on exports.

He suggested some provinces are loathe to give up the right to subsidize their own producers and therby boost production because they fear they will be left with small quotas if federal supply management legislation is introduced.

Riddell said subsidies now in place in other provinces give their producers an unfair advantage over Ontario's livestock farmers.

"Farmers in this country are in trouble. It's time we stopped these inter-provincial trade wars, put politics and provincial loyalties aside and tried to do something for the good of Canada's agriculture industry."

Whether he succeeds in getting the changes he wants to the federal program, Riddell hopes to see tripartite stabilization of some kind in place by this fall.

ATLANTIC, PA. - ATLANTIC, Pa. - Standing by the twisted, shattered stump of what used to be a large shade tree, Opal Baird wiped a tear from her eye.

"I've lived here all my life," she said. "I was born in that tiny house over there."

She pointed across a field strewn with litter, to a pile of rubble and bent metal.

Concrete pads stuck in the ground showed where Baird's bungalow used to be.

"Everything was destroyed," Baird said. "Everything we had disappeared in just three minutes."

Atlantic, the small rural Pennsylvania town Baird always called home, was wiped off the map seven weeks ago in the same series of storms that flattened Barrie May 31.

The 20 tornados in Pennsylvania killed 64 people, injured 700 and destroyed 1,658 homes.

Five people in Atlantic died. Every home in town was destroyed. Only the local Congregational Church was left standing.

Shattered lives

Now, residents are busily rebuilding their shattered lives. The buzz of chain saws can be heard everywhere as homeowners chop up fallen trees. Red and black "No Trespassing" signs dot the countryside and spirals of blue smoke streak the skyline where the storm's wreckage is being burned.

New aluminum roofs twinkle in the sunlight on more than a dozen barns that have sprung up almost overnight - almost all the work done by volunteers.

Forty-five families in Atlantic are members of the Amish religious sect, an offshoot of the Mennonite Church, which shuns government assistance, mechanization and modernization.

The Amish shrugged off the tornados as an Act of God and immediately began to rebuild their dairy farms. Mennonites from as far away as Ontario, Wisconsin and Indiana came to help in the mammoth rebuilding task.

Amish farmers from neighboring communities slept in tents and storm-damaged barns, scoured the countryside salvaging their friends' belongings and, in less than four weeks, rebuilt nearly all of the Amish farms.

Last week, 1,000 Amish and Mennonite volunteers fanned out across Pennsylvania, offering to rebuild the homes and farm buildings of storm victims whose losses aren't covered by insurance.

"We just do it for the glory of God," said Sanford Yoder, a co-ordinator for the Mennonite Disaster Service, the group directing much of the private clean-up effort in Atlantic.

"We're not here to take jobs away from private contractors. We won't help someone who is covered by insurance and we won't buy building materials for anyone. We're just here to offer our labor, to offer ourselves."

In Atlantic's Congregational Church a banner hanging next to the altar reads: "By Giving To Others We Are Strengthened."

Every corner of the building is crammed with used clothing and emergency food supplies donated by families state-wide.

Women have produced more than 100,000 meals in the church kitchen for homeless tornado victims and volunteers.

The church hall has been converted into a disaster co-ordination centre where Amish men in straw hats, beards and bib overalls plot to rebuild their town with area farmers.

Outside the church, a lawn has been ploughed into a "victory garden" to supply fresh vegetables. And in the church parking lot, camouflaged army water tanks provided by the National Guard give residents fresh water.

At night, the church becomes a meeting place where officials from the U. S. Small Business Agency explain government disaster assistance programs.

The federal government has already pumped more than $9 million into Pennsylvania to help residents recover from the tornados, supplying needy victims with free accommodation and low-interest loans to rebuild their homes, farms and businesses.

More than 200 Red Cross volunteers in the state are providing additional emergency assistance and local county mental health agencies are offering group therapy sessions to help people deal with the stress of disaster.

"We have to have a vision," said Rev. Charles Polley, pastor of the Atlantic church. "We have to look ahead. We have to rebuild. We have to face it. So many lives were spared here, because God has a future purpose for us."

Still, the scars of the tornados remain.

Bloated bodies of dead deer can be found lying in the tall grass of roadside ditches outside town.

Fallen debris

And some rural residents, such as Doris Young, say the stench of death lingers on farms where chunks of cow flesh are still buried under fallen debris.

"When those twisters came through here they sucked up just about everything," Young said. "Whole dairy herds just disappeared. Houses were turned to dust and crops were ripped right out of the ground."

Some scars are just memories and stories that will be told to disbelieving strangers for years.

Baird talks of hiding behind a rocking chair in her kitchen and regaining consciousness ten minutes later, with four broken ribs, 100 feet from what used to be her home.

She talks of finding a meat cleaver buried to its hilt in a tree stump, a neighbor who found her purse nearly a mile away from her home and of a friend whose garage was blown to bits even though his new car was left untouched.

Others talk of homes where a second-floor toilet was ripped from the floor and thrown 300 metres (300 yards) in the air, but a wallet sitting on a piano in the same building was left untouched, or of a china cabinet full of dishes in perfect shape in a house that no longer had a roof or walls.

In the nearby town of Albion, businesses sport handwritten signs in their windows that declare "Albion Will Rise Again" and some houses have messages painted on their ruined walls.

"The Steffs are alive and well and Here To Stay!! We are rebuilding", declares a sign scrawled in red paint on the front wall of one home.

Twelve people died in Albion; 215 homes were destroyed or damaged.

But like Atlantic, neighbors have banded together at a local church, Grace United Methodist, to put their lives back together.

When John Noerr, a retired truck driver who lost everything he owned in the tornados, came to the church last week to be interviewed by government disaster officials, he still seemed shocked by the kindness strangers are showing him.

"I've got a lot more friends in this town than I ever knew I had before," he said.

And over his shoulder sunshine streamed through a large stained glass window depicting the Resurrection of Christ.

ATLANTIC, PA. - ATLANTIC, Pa. - Standing by the twisted, shattered stump of what used to be a large shade tree, Opal Baird wiped a tear from her eye.

"I've lived here all my life," she said. "I was born in that tiny house over there."

She pointed across a field strewn with litter, to a pile of rubble and bent metal.

Concrete pads stuck in the ground showed where Baird's bungalow used to be.

"Everything was destroyed," Baird said. "Everything we had disappeared in just three minutes."

Atlantic, the small rural Pennsylvania town Baird always called home, was wiped off the map seven weeks ago in the same series of storms that flattened Barrie May 31.

The 20 tornados in Pennsylvania killed 64 people, injured 700 and destroyed 1,658 homes.

Five people in Atlantic died. Every home in town was destroyed. Only the local Congregational Church was left standing.

Shattered lives

Now, residents are busily rebuilding their shattered lives. The buzz of chain saws can be heard everywhere as homeowners chop up fallen trees. Red and black "No Trespassing" signs dot the countryside and spirals of blue smoke streak the skyline where the storm's wreckage is being burned.

New aluminum roofs twinkle in the sunlight on more than a dozen barns that have sprung up almost overnight - almost all the work done by volunteers.

Forty-five families in Atlantic are members of the Amish religious sect, an offshoot of the Mennonite Church, which shuns government assistance, mechanization and modernization.

The Amish shrugged off the tornados as an Act of God and immediately began to rebuild their dairy farms. Mennonites from as far away as Ontario, Wisconsin and Indiana came to help in the mammoth rebuilding task.

Amish farmers from neighboring communities slept in tents and storm-damaged barns, scoured the countryside salvaging their friends' belongings and, in less than four weeks, rebuilt nearly all of the Amish farms.

Last week, 1,000 Amish and Mennonite volunteers fanned out across Pennsylvania, offering to rebuild the homes and farm buildings of storm victims whose losses aren't covered by insurance.

"We just do it for the glory of God," said Sanford Yoder, a co-ordinator for the Mennonite Disaster Service, the group directing much of the private clean-up effort in Atlantic.

"We're not here to take jobs away from private contractors. We won't help someone who is covered by insurance and we won't buy building materials for anyone. We're just here to offer our labor, to offer ourselves."

In Atlantic's Congregational Church a banner hanging next to the altar reads: "By Giving To Others We Are Strengthened."

Every corner of the building is crammed with used clothing and emergency food supplies donated by families state-wide.

Women have produced more than 100,000 meals in the church kitchen for homeless tornado victims and volunteers.

The church hall has been converted into a disaster co-ordination centre where Amish men in straw hats, beards and bib overalls plot to rebuild their town with area farmers.

Outside the church, a lawn has been ploughed into a "victory garden" to supply fresh vegetables. And in the church parking lot, camouflaged army water tanks provided by the National Guard give residents fresh water.

At night, the church becomes a meeting place where officials from the U. S. Small Business Agency explain government disaster assistance programs.

The federal government has already pumped more than $9 million into Pennsylvania to help residents recover from the tornados, supplying needy victims with free accommodation and low-interest loans to rebuild their homes, farms and businesses.

More than 200 Red Cross volunteers in the state are providing additional emergency assistance and local county mental health agencies are offering group therapy sessions to help people deal with the stress of disaster.

"We have to have a vision," said Rev. Charles Polley, pastor of the Atlantic church. "We have to look ahead. We have to rebuild. We have to face it. So many lives were spared here, because God has a future purpose for us."

Still, the scars of the tornados remain.

Bloated bodies of dead deer can be found lying in the tall grass of roadside ditches outside town.

Fallen debris

And some rural residents, such as Doris Young, say the stench of death lingers on farms where chunks of cow flesh are still buried under fallen debris.

"When those twisters came through here they sucked up just about everything," Young said. "Whole dairy herds just disappeared. Houses were turned to dust and crops were ripped right out of the ground."

Some scars are just memories and stories that will be told to disbelieving strangers for years.

Baird talks of hiding behind a rocking chair in her kitchen and regaining consciousness ten minutes later, with four broken ribs, 100 feet from what used to be her home.

She talks of finding a meat cleaver buried to its hilt in a tree stump, a neighbor who found her purse nearly a mile away from her home and of a friend whose garage was blown to bits even though his new car was left untouched.

Others talk of homes where a second-floor toilet was ripped from the floor and thrown 300 metres (300 yards) in the air, but a wallet sitting on a piano in the same building was left untouched, or of a china cabinet full of dishes in perfect shape in a house that no longer had a roof or walls.

In the nearby town of Albion, businesses sport handwritten signs in their windows that declare "Albion Will Rise Again" and some houses have messages painted on their ruined walls.

"The Steffs are alive and well and Here To Stay!! We are rebuilding", declares a sign scrawled in red paint on the front wall of one home.

Twelve people died in Albion; 215 homes were destroyed or damaged.

But like Atlantic, neighbors have banded together at a local church, Grace United Methodist, to put their lives back together.

When John Noerr, a retired truck driver who lost everything he owned in the tornados, came to the church last week to be interviewed by government disaster officials, he still seemed shocked by the kindness strangers are showing him.

"I've got a lot more friends in this town than I ever knew I had before," he said.

And over his shoulder sunshine streamed through a large stained glass window depicting the Resurrection of Christ.

Finance Minister Michael Wilson acknowledges that his May budget contributed to higher inflation last month, but says it was just a temporary blip.

"I think this is a short-term response and I think in time things will be back to where we were," he said yesterday.

The inflation rate, measured by the consumer price index, was 4.1 per cent in the year through June, up from 3.9 per cent in May, Statistics Canada reported.

The increase ended a six-month stretch in which inflation had run at less than 4 per cent.

Wilson told reporters after a speech to the Toronto chapter of the Institute of Chartered Life Underwriters that the higher inflation rate was caused in part by budgetary moves, but "you can't attribute it to any one thing."

Unpopular measures

He also stuck by budget moves criticized by various social policy groups, including the de-indexing of family allowance payments and the imposition of federal tax on non-prescription medication.

"I'm not happy at increasing those taxes or making those changes," Wilson said.

"But it's very important to remind ourselves what the cause of those actions is and I discussed those at length here today."

During his speech, Wilson reviewed moves taken in the May budget to cut the deficit and encourage investment and economic growth.

Economists, meanwhile, said most of the June inflation rise can be attributed to tax changes in the federal budget, but they are not worried that a trend is developing toward significantly higher inflation, Canadian Press reports.

Higher costs

George Saba, chief economist for Montreal Trust, said the budget was probably the largest factor in the June rise, "but I haven't seen anything that indicates there is a general firming of prices in the near term."

Sharply higher costs for tobacco and alcohol and an increase in food prices led the general increase last month. Statistics Canada's tobacco products and smokers' supplies index rose 12.5 per cent in June after budget tax increases.

The food index rose 0.6 per cent, after a 1.1 per cent decline in May. Meat prices rose by 0.6 per cent in June, following May's drop of 1.7 per cent. Higher prices were also recorded for fresh fruit, up 4.6 per cent, and for fresh vegetables, up 5.9 per cent.

Partly offsetting the increases were lower prices for dairy products and eggs, down 0.7 per cent; bakery products, down 1.2 per cent; sugar, down 6.4 per cent.

SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA - SYDNEY, Australia - This whole country seems to be filled with good-natured people anxious that you share their good life, laid-back ways, fine food, considerable cultural attractions.

And, most of all, they want you to have a smashing good time with them along the way.

Sydney rolls much of it up into one neat ball for you, a perfect gateway city for sampling Aussie delights before heading into the Outback or sneaking off to Perth for a peek at the America's Cup.

And believe it when they say, "You're gonna get wet." Sydney is a latticework of 34 bays and coves, with one convenient spot for dunking being Seven Shilling Beach right on the harbor, named for the original land cost.

In 1788 England dumped a boatload of convicts on The Rocks area of Sydney Cove. Their strong backs began to hammer and carve out a city that has become one of the Southern Hemisphere's most exciting.

From the moment you see the blinding white "sails" of the Opera House, surrounded by blue water as if bunched for a regatta beneath soaring Sydney Harbor Bridge, you know this city is something special.

Here to there: CP Air will get you there with a change in Honolulu, Air Canada, American and US Air to Los Angeles for changes to Qantas, Air New Zealand, Pan Am or Continental. An airport limo stops at major hotels for $2.40, cab fare about $11 to the mid-city.

Getting around town: An Explorer Bus makes 20 stops at city attractions for $6.50 adults, $3 kids, get off and on at will. Cabs are very moderate.

How long/how much? We'd have to say two or three days minimum to really enjoy the place, more if you get hooked on the 30 beaches within 12 miles of the city. Lodging and dining prices are as cozy as you could wish.

A few fast facts: The Australian dollar was recently valued at about three cents less than ours. June through August, mid-winter down here, is a perfect time to visit, balmy, little rain, a light jacket or wrap in the evening.Highs range in the 60s and 70s year-round.

Moderate-cost hotels: Although practically new as a hotel, Telford Old Sydney Inn (55 George St.; $85 double) is every inch a delight. It was once a bonded warehouse for goods coming into Sydney's port, now converted into a spanking place with huge, four-storey central atrium vaguely reminiscent of a Spanish convent. Dead centre of historic The Rocks area, fine views of bay and Opera House, loads of great restaurants nearby, heated pool.

Cambridge Inn (212 Riley St.; $78 is a highrise that still maintains a warm and comfortable feel in its furnishings and public rooms. The Cyrano's dining room was just selected as one of Sydney's 10 best, a study in subdued elegance with handsome brown velvet chairs, a copper-hooded fireplace, beautiful settings and crystal. Clairmont Village Inn (5 Ward Ave.; $63) is modern and crams a lot into small space: neat rooms, heated indoor pool, the Billboard Restaurant with pictures of Gable, Lombard and other old timers on wall murals.

Regional food and drink: With all this water, seafood is obviously the big thing here, although lamb and good beef make their inroads. Sydney's rock oysters are superb, and there's a monstrous game fish called barramundi that is heavenly in a number of ways. The prawns are enormous, lobsters toothsome, and every menu has its quota of John Dory, snapper, flounder, whiting, smoked salmon and on into the deep.

Wherever you find an Australian you find a thirst, and down here they satisfy it with remarkably good wines, having won their first international gold medal in 1822.

Moderate-cost dining: Don't take our word for it, head straight for Phillip's Foote Restaurant (101 George St., The Rocks), then select from T-bones the size of baseball gloves, filets like flatirons, four or so lamb chops cut half way, equally huge chunks of meat we couldn't identify, or lemon sole and other fish. Put it on your plate raw, then hit the 15-foot salad bar, now repair to one of several roaring barbecues in patios or on the porches and cook it to your taste. The waitress will bring you your choice of red or white wine, beer, coffee, tea or whatever. Total cost $7 Australian.

Nearby Rocks Push (109 George St.) was named for the Rocks Push Gang, a gaggle of ne'er-do-wells who frequented the place during days of the 19th-century tall ships. Now it's a colorful, Paris-type bistro with a set, three-course menu for $16, some of Sydney's best live jazz in the evening. The Waterfront (27 Circular Quay, The Rocks) gets a big play with seafood addicts sitting beneath the terrace awning right on Sydney Harbor.

But for a sturdy meal and humorous look at Australia's past, have a go at the Jolly Swagman Show at Argyle Tavern (12 Argyle St.) The "main tucker" offers a good selection of Aussie staples, 37 wines to choose from, rustic decor, songs and humor a bit earthy at times.

Going first-class: Regent International (199 George St.; $100 up) has everything going for it: great location, stunning views of city or harbor, Kable's dining room the best in Australia. The fixed lunch is an unbelievable $20, and we had glazed oysters with tomato and leek mousseline, roast guinea hen with leeks, but stared longingly at our friend's shell oysters and venison medallions on braised leeks. Beaujolais nouveau at $2.50 a glass, $13 the bottle.

Hyatt Kingsgate (Top of William St.: $110 up) crowns Sydney's other lively area, the Kings Cross section. It's just finished a major facelift and sits in a hotbed of good restaurants and nightlife, all you could want in a luxury hotel.

On your own: First off is a cruise of Sydney Harbor for a spectacular look at the Opera House, bridge and regal homes rimming the water.

Sydney has a full complement of museums, parks, churches and historic sites. But the fun side calls for just clumping around The Rocks, following the bright lights to Kings Cross along William St. and Darlinghurst Rd., hopping a hydrofoil across the harbor to Manly and its lively Corso or just exploring on your own in a city that continues to grow vigorously.

For more information: Call the Australian Tourist Commission office at (416) 487-2126, or write them (120 Eglinton Ave. E., Toronto, Ont. M4P 1E2) for a 120-page booklet, Destination Australia, with maps and hotel prices throughout country, plus other brochures on Sydney.

SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA - SYDNEY, Australia - This whole country seems to be filled with good-natured people anxious that you share their good life, laid-back ways, fine food, considerable cultural attractions.

And, most of all, they want you to have a smashing good time with them along the way.

Sydney rolls much of it up into one neat ball for you, a perfect gateway city for sampling Aussie delights before heading into the Outback or sneaking off to Perth for a peek at the America's Cup.

And believe it when they say, "You're gonna get wet." Sydney is a latticework of 34 bays and coves, with one convenient spot for dunking being Seven Shilling Beach right on the harbor, named for the original land cost.

In 1788 England dumped a boatload of convicts on The Rocks area of Sydney Cove. Their strong backs began to hammer and carve out a city that has become one of the Southern Hemisphere's most exciting.

From the moment you see the blinding white "sails" of the Opera House, surrounded by blue water as if bunched for a regatta beneath soaring Sydney Harbor Bridge, you know this city is something special.

Here to there: CP Air will get you there with a change in Honolulu, Air Canada, American and US Air to Los Angeles for changes to Qantas, Air New Zealand, Pan Am or Continental. An airport limo stops at major hotels for $2.40, cab fare about $11 to the mid-city.

Getting around town: An Explorer Bus makes 20 stops at city attractions for $6.50 adults, $3 kids, get off and on at will. Cabs are very moderate.

How long/how much? We'd have to say two or three days minimum to really enjoy the place, more if you get hooked on the 30 beaches within 12 miles of the city. Lodging and dining prices are as cozy as you could wish.

A few fast facts: The Australian dollar was recently valued at about three cents less than ours. June through August, mid-winter down here, is a perfect time to visit, balmy, little rain, a light jacket or wrap in the evening.Highs range in the 60s and 70s year-round.

Moderate-cost hotels: Although practically new as a hotel, Telford Old Sydney Inn (55 George St.; $85 double) is every inch a delight. It was once a bonded warehouse for goods coming into Sydney's port, now converted into a spanking place with huge, four-storey central atrium vaguely reminiscent of a Spanish convent. Dead centre of historic The Rocks area, fine views of bay and Opera House, loads of great restaurants nearby, heated pool.

Cambridge Inn (212 Riley St.; $78 is a highrise that still maintains a warm and comfortable feel in its furnishings and public rooms. The Cyrano's dining room was just selected as one of Sydney's 10 best, a study in subdued elegance with handsome brown velvet chairs, a copper-hooded fireplace, beautiful settings and crystal. Clairmont Village Inn (5 Ward Ave.; $63) is modern and crams a lot into small space: neat rooms, heated indoor pool, the Billboard Restaurant with pictures of Gable, Lombard and other old timers on wall murals.

Regional food and drink: With all this water, seafood is obviously the big thing here, although lamb and good beef make their inroads. Sydney's rock oysters are superb, and there's a monstrous game fish called barramundi that is heavenly in a number of ways. The prawns are enormous, lobsters toothsome, and every menu has its quota of John Dory, snapper, flounder, whiting, smoked salmon and on into the deep.

Wherever you find an Australian you find a thirst, and down here they satisfy it with remarkably good wines, having won their first international gold medal in 1822.

Moderate-cost dining: Don't take our word for it, head straight for Phillip's Foote Restaurant (101 George St., The Rocks), then select from T-bones the size of baseball gloves, filets like flatirons, four or so lamb chops cut half way, equally huge chunks of meat we couldn't identify, or lemon sole and other fish. Put it on your plate raw, then hit the 15-foot salad bar, now repair to one of several roaring barbecues in patios or on the porches and cook it to your taste. The waitress will bring you your choice of red or white wine, beer, coffee, tea or whatever. Total cost $7 Australian.

Nearby Rocks Push (109 George St.) was named for the Rocks Push Gang, a gaggle of ne'er-do-wells who frequented the place during days of the 19th-century tall ships. Now it's a colorful, Paris-type bistro with a set, three-course menu for $16, some of Sydney's best live jazz in the evening. The Waterfront (27 Circular Quay, The Rocks) gets a big play with seafood addicts sitting beneath the terrace awning right on Sydney Harbor.

But for a sturdy meal and humorous look at Australia's past, have a go at the Jolly Swagman Show at Argyle Tavern (12 Argyle St.) The "main tucker" offers a good selection of Aussie staples, 37 wines to choose from, rustic decor, songs and humor a bit earthy at times.

Going first-class: Regent International (199 George St.; $100 up) has everything going for it: great location, stunning views of city or harbor, Kable's dining room the best in Australia. The fixed lunch is an unbelievable $20, and we had glazed oysters with tomato and leek mousseline, roast guinea hen with leeks, but stared longingly at our friend's shell oysters and venison medallions on braised leeks. Beaujolais nouveau at $2.50 a glass, $13 the bottle.

Hyatt Kingsgate (Top of William St.: $110 up) crowns Sydney's other lively area, the Kings Cross section. It's just finished a major facelift and sits in a hotbed of good restaurants and nightlife, all you could want in a luxury hotel.

On your own: First off is a cruise of Sydney Harbor for a spectacular look at the Opera House, bridge and regal homes rimming the water.

Sydney has a full complement of museums, parks, churches and historic sites. But the fun side calls for just clumping around The Rocks, following the bright lights to Kings Cross along William St. and Darlinghurst Rd., hopping a hydrofoil across the harbor to Manly and its lively Corso or just exploring on your own in a city that continues to grow vigorously.

For more information: Call the Australian Tourist Commission office at (416) 487-2126, or write them (120 Eglinton Ave. E., Toronto, Ont. M4P 1E2) for a 120-page booklet, Destination Australia, with maps and hotel prices throughout country, plus other brochures on Sydney.

SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA - SYDNEY, Australia - This whole country seems to be filled with good-natured people anxious that you share their good life, laid-back ways, fine food, considerable cultural attractions.

And, most of all, they want you to have a smashing good time with them along the way.

Sydney rolls much of it up into one neat ball for you, a perfect gateway city for sampling Aussie delights before heading into the Outback or sneaking off to Perth for a peek at the America's Cup.

And believe it when they say, "You're gonna get wet." Sydney is a latticework of 34 bays and coves, with one convenient spot for dunking being Seven Shilling Beach right on the harbor, named for the original land cost.

In 1788 England dumped a boatload of convicts on The Rocks area of Sydney Cove. Their strong backs began to hammer and carve out a city that has become one of the Southern Hemisphere's most exciting.

From the moment you see the blinding white "sails" of the Opera House, surrounded by blue water as if bunched for a regatta beneath soaring Sydney Harbor Bridge, you know this city is something special.

Here to there: CP Air will get you there with a change in Honolulu, Air Canada, American and US Air to Los Angeles for changes to Qantas, Air New Zealand, Pan Am or Continental. An airport limo stops at major hotels for $2.40, cab fare about $11 to the mid-city.

Getting around town: An Explorer Bus makes 20 stops at city attractions for $6.50 adults, $3 kids, get off and on at will. Cabs are very moderate.

How long/how much? We'd have to say two or three days minimum to really enjoy the place, more if you get hooked on the 30 beaches within 12 miles of the city. Lodging and dining prices are as cozy as you could wish.

A few fast facts: The Australian dollar was recently valued at about three cents less than ours. June through August, mid-winter down here, is a perfect time to visit, balmy, little rain, a light jacket or wrap in the evening.Highs range in the 60s and 70s year-round.

Moderate-cost hotels: Although practically new as a hotel, Telford Old Sydney Inn (55 George St.; $85 double) is every inch a delight. It was once a bonded warehouse for goods coming into Sydney's port, now converted into a spanking place with huge, four-storey central atrium vaguely reminiscent of a Spanish convent. Dead centre of historic The Rocks area, fine views of bay and Opera House, loads of great restaurants nearby, heated pool.

Cambridge Inn (212 Riley St.; $78 is a highrise that still maintains a warm and comfortable feel in its furnishings and public rooms. The Cyrano's dining room was just selected as one of Sydney's 10 best, a study in subdued elegance with handsome brown velvet chairs, a copper-hooded fireplace, beautiful settings and crystal. Clairmont Village Inn (5 Ward Ave.; $63) is modern and crams a lot into small space: neat rooms, heated indoor pool, the Billboard Restaurant with pictures of Gable, Lombard and other old timers on wall murals.

Regional food and drink: With all this water, seafood is obviously the big thing here, although lamb and good beef make their inroads. Sydney's rock oysters are superb, and there's a monstrous game fish called barramundi that is heavenly in a number of ways. The prawns are enormous, lobsters toothsome, and every menu has its quota of John Dory, snapper, flounder, whiting, smoked salmon and on into the deep.

Wherever you find an Australian you find a thirst, and down here they satisfy it with remarkably good wines, having won their first international gold medal in 1822.

Moderate-cost dining: Don't take our word for it, head straight for Phillip's Foote Restaurant (101 George St., The Rocks), then select from T-bones the size of baseball gloves, filets like flatirons, four or so lamb chops cut half way, equally huge chunks of meat we couldn't identify, or lemon sole and other fish. Put it on your plate raw, then hit the 15-foot salad bar, now repair to one of several roaring barbecues in patios or on the porches and cook it to your taste. The waitress will bring you your choice of red or white wine, beer, coffee, tea or whatever. Total cost $7 Australian.

Nearby Rocks Push (109 George St.) was named for the Rocks Push Gang, a gaggle of ne'er-do-wells who frequented the place during days of the 19th-century tall ships. Now it's a colorful, Paris-type bistro with a set, three-course menu for $16, some of Sydney's best live jazz in the evening. The Waterfront (27 Circular Quay, The Rocks) gets a big play with seafood addicts sitting beneath the terrace awning right on Sydney Harbor.

But for a sturdy meal and humorous look at Australia's past, have a go at the Jolly Swagman Show at Argyle Tavern (12 Argyle St.) The "main tucker" offers a good selection of Aussie staples, 37 wines to choose from, rustic decor, songs and humor a bit earthy at times.

Going first-class: Regent International (199 George St.; $100 up) has everything going for it: great location, stunning views of city or harbor, Kable's dining room the best in Australia. The fixed lunch is an unbelievable $20, and we had glazed oysters with tomato and leek mousseline, roast guinea hen with leeks, but stared longingly at our friend's shell oysters and venison medallions on braised leeks. Beaujolais nouveau at $2.50 a glass, $13 the bottle.

Hyatt Kingsgate (Top of William St.: $110 up) crowns Sydney's other lively area, the Kings Cross section. It's just finished a major facelift and sits in a hotbed of good restaurants and nightlife, all you could want in a luxury hotel.

On your own: First off is a cruise of Sydney Harbor for a spectacular look at the Opera House, bridge and regal homes rimming the water.

Sydney has a full complement of museums, parks, churches and historic sites. But the fun side calls for just clumping around The Rocks, following the bright lights to Kings Cross along William St. and Darlinghurst Rd., hopping a hydrofoil across the harbor to Manly and its lively Corso or just exploring on your own in a city that continues to grow vigorously.

For more information: Call the Australian Tourist Commission office at (416) 487-2126, or write them (120 Eglinton Ave. E., Toronto, Ont. M4P 1E2) for a 120-page booklet, Destination Australia, with maps and hotel prices throughout country, plus other brochures on Sydney.

ATLANTIC, PA. - ATLANTIC, Pa. - Standing by the twisted, shattered stump of what used to be a large shade tree, Opal Baird wiped a tear from her eye.

"I've lived here all my life," she said. "I was born in that tiny house over there."

She pointed across a field strewn with litter, to a pile of rubble and bent metal.

Concrete pads stuck in the ground showed where Baird's bungalow used to be.

"Everything was destroyed," Baird said. "Everything we had disappeared in just three minutes."

Atlantic, the small rural Pennsylvania town Baird always called home, was wiped off the map seven weeks ago in the same series of storms that flattened Barrie May 31.

The 20 tornados in Pennsylvania killed 64 people, injured 700 and destroyed 1,658 homes.

Five people in Atlantic died. Every home in town was destroyed. Only the local Congregational Church was left standing.

Shattered lives

Now, residents are busily rebuilding their shattered lives. The buzz of chain saws can be heard everywhere as homeowners chop up fallen trees. Red and black "No Trespassing" signs dot the countryside and spirals of blue smoke streak the skyline where the storm's wreckage is being burned.

New aluminum roofs twinkle in the sunlight on more than a dozen barns that have sprung up almost overnight - almost all the work done by volunteers.

Forty-five families in Atlantic are members of the Amish religious sect, an offshoot of the Mennonite Church, which shuns government assistance, mechanization and modernization.

The Amish shrugged off the tornados as an Act of God and immediately began to rebuild their dairy farms. Mennonites from as far away as Ontario, Wisconsin and Indiana came to help in the mammoth rebuilding task.

Amish farmers from neighboring communities slept in tents and storm-damaged barns, scoured the countryside salvaging their friends' belongings and, in less than four weeks, rebuilt nearly all of the Amish farms.

Last week, 1,000 Amish and Mennonite volunteers fanned out across Pennsylvania, offering to rebuild the homes and farm buildings of storm victims whose losses aren't covered by insurance.

"We just do it for the glory of God," said Sanford Yoder, a co-ordinator for the Mennonite Disaster Service, the group directing much of the private clean-up effort in Atlantic.

"We're not here to take jobs away from private contractors. We won't help someone who is covered by insurance and we won't buy building materials for anyone. We're just here to offer our labor, to offer ourselves."

In Atlantic's Congregational Church a banner hanging next to the altar reads: "By Giving To Others We Are Strengthened."

Every corner of the building is crammed with used clothing and emergency food supplies donated by families state-wide.

Women have produced more than 100,000 meals in the church kitchen for homeless tornado victims and volunteers.

The church hall has been converted into a disaster co-ordination centre where Amish men in straw hats, beards and bib overalls plot to rebuild their town with area farmers.

Outside the church, a lawn has been ploughed into a "victory garden" to supply fresh vegetables. And in the church parking lot, camouflaged army water tanks provided by the National Guard give residents fresh water.

At night, the church becomes a meeting place where officials from the U. S. Small Business Agency explain government disaster assistance programs.

The federal government has already pumped more than $9 million into Pennsylvania to help residents recover from the tornados, supplying needy victims with free accommodation and low-interest loans to rebuild their homes, farms and businesses.

More than 200 Red Cross volunteers in the state are providing additional emergency assistance and local county mental health agencies are offering group therapy sessions to help people deal with the stress of disaster.

"We have to have a vision," said Rev. Charles Polley, pastor of the Atlantic church. "We have to look ahead. We have to rebuild. We have to face it. So many lives were spared here, because God has a future purpose for us."

Still, the scars of the tornados remain.

Bloated bodies of dead deer can be found lying in the tall grass of roadside ditches outside town.

Fallen debris

And some rural residents, such as Doris Young, say the stench of death lingers on farms where chunks of cow flesh are still buried under fallen debris.

"When those twisters came through here they sucked up just about everything," Young said. "Whole dairy herds just disappeared. Houses were turned to dust and crops were ripped right out of the ground."

Some scars are just memories and stories that will be told to disbelieving strangers for years.

Baird talks of hiding behind a rocking chair in her kitchen and regaining consciousness ten minutes later, with four broken ribs, 100 feet from what used to be her home.

She talks of finding a meat cleaver buried to its hilt in a tree stump, a neighbor who found her purse nearly a mile away from her home and of a friend whose garage was blown to bits even though his new car was left untouched.

Others talk of homes where a second-floor toilet was ripped from the floor and thrown 300 metres (300 yards) in the air, but a wallet sitting on a piano in the same building was left untouched, or of a china cabinet full of dishes in perfect shape in a house that no longer had a roof or walls.

In the nearby town of Albion, businesses sport handwritten signs in their windows that declare "Albion Will Rise Again" and some houses have messages painted on their ruined walls.

"The Steffs are alive and well and Here To Stay!! We are rebuilding", declares a sign scrawled in red paint on the front wall of one home.

Twelve people died in Albion; 215 homes were destroyed or damaged.

But like Atlantic, neighbors have banded together at a local church, Grace United Methodist, to put their lives back together.

When John Noerr, a retired truck driver who lost everything he owned in the tornados, came to the church last week to be interviewed by government disaster officials, he still seemed shocked by the kindness strangers are showing him.

"I've got a lot more friends in this town than I ever knew I had before," he said.

And over his shoulder sunshine streamed through a large stained glass window depicting the Resurrection of Christ.

OTTAWA - OTTAWA (CP) - Although the House of Commons spent $1.5 million or more on a new cafeteria, some diners may be hungering for the old one.

And while the new one is fancier, with a salad bar, deli service and other touches, it isn't fast and there can be lineups from the soup section to the cashiers.

Then, the new place ran out of food the other day. Late-comers scramblerd for a few packaged sandwiches but there were no more hot main courses, salads or even smoked meat. There were some loud complaints being directed to Commons administrator Arthur Silverman the man responsible for services.

A man received minor head injuries when a stolen car slammed into a tree after being chased by police along Sheppard Ave. from Kennedy Rd. to Agincourt Drive.

The driver was trapped in the crash on Saturday and had to be pried from the vehicle. He was taken to Scarborough General Hospital.

Christopher Anthony Sowden, 24, of no fixed address, was charged with theft, criminal negligence in the operation of a vehicle, failing to stop for police, possession of stolen property and attempting to obstruct justice. Dash 8 plane to fly from Islands Airport

De Havilland Dash 8's will soon be taking off from the Toronto Islands Airport.

The Toronto Harbor Commission has approved an amendment to the airport lease agreement enabling Toronto-based City Express airlines to immediately use the two-engine 37-seat plane for its Toronto Island-Montreal route. Both Transport Canada and Toronto City Council, the other two parties to the lease agreement, have already approved the plane's use. Posing as policemen, pair rob meat store

Two bandits posing as policemen robbed a North York meat store after getting the owner to tell them about the night deposit arrangements. The men pulled guns and demanded the cash after Helmut Kellen, 45, owner of Kellen's Meats on Lawrence Ave. E., had counted the money and put it into deposit bags. Man dies in fire in Bancroft cabin

A Toronto man is believed to have died in a fire on a Bancroft property he tried to give away last spring.

Kurt Hiestand, 72, of Sherbourne St., sent his land deed to the council of Monteagle Township, saying he was tired of paying taxes on the old cabin. But he changed his mind and returned to the property for the first time in several years on Friday. The cabin burned to the ground overnight.

A body has been sent to Toronto for identification. Litter on Metro roads upsets North York

Litter dumped on Metro-owned property is hampering the cleanup of a North York neighborhood, Alderman Howard Moscoe says.

Moscoe says private property owners in the Wilson Ave. and Dufferin St. area, ordered to clean up their homes, offices and stores, are questioning why they must comply when it appears Metro is ignoring property standards bylaws.

But Tom Johnston, chief maintenance engineer for the Metro roads department, says he doesn't have the budget to increase cleanups.

OTTAWA - OTTAWA (CP) - Revenue Canada has suspended an anti-dumping investigation into imports of prepared dinners because the company involved agreed to revise its export prices to eliminate the dumping, the department said yesterday.

The investigation into imports of prepared dinners made by or for Banquet Foods Corp., of Ballwin, Mo., was launched in April after complaints from Morrison-Lamothe Inc. of Ottawa and Campbell Soup Co. of Toronto that the American products were being sold in Canada below their value.

Under investigation were pot pies or dinners containing meat, poultry or other ingredients. Pot pies, sold under the Banquet name, account for 3.4 per cent of the Canadian market while so-called two-compartment dinners, also sold under the Banquet brand, account for 4.4 per cent of the Canadian market.

The investigation did not include Banquet's single entree dinners.

If the world unfolds as it should - or as it always seems to - Toronto will eventually pick up the latest American food trends. What the supermarkets are doing in the U.S., then, might be of interest.

About half the supermarkets in the U.S. have gone down the tubes in recent years. But the amount of square footage, the actual amount of space given to food shopping, has increased. Put another way, the U.S. is going the way of superstores, where shoppers can not only get food for the table but oil for the car, cosmetics for the face, and prescription pills for the body.

According to Robert E. Wunderle of Supermarket General Corp., one of the largest supermarket chains in the States, 86 per cent of all American supermarkets have diet food sections, 55 per cent have in-store bakeries, 42 per cent have nutrition and health sections, 50 per cent have delis, 34 per cent service meat counters, and 28 per cent service fish counters. In fact, 12 per cent of all the fish sold in the United States is now bought in supermarkets.

So far, that's not all surprising. But the American supermarkets are also realizing that time and convenience are the most important considerations for supermarkets. For that reason, 87 per cent of all U.S. groceries sell motor oil, 81 per cent sell magazines, 67 per cent greeting cards, 43 per cent have floral shops, and 33 per cent have photo finishing outlets. The U.S. supermarkets are Number 1 in light bulb sales, 13 per cent of all greeting cards sold are purchased in supermarkets, 12 per cent of all cosmetics and 10 per cent of all prescription drugs.

Also big: beer departments, gourmet sections, store-made pizzas, store-made pasta and pasta bars, salad bars, hot take-out food and cheese shops.

Last week, Wunderle was speaking at a Buffalo press conference set up by the Food Marketing Institute, a non-profit organization representing half the food stores in America and many in Canada. Also at the conference was the institute's senior vice-president, Timothy Hammonds, who said the next U.S. trend will be customizing grocery stores to local communities. Translated to Canada, that would mean a Loblaws store in Oakville would not stock the same items as a Loblaws store at Spadina and King. Nor would the stores necessarily even look alike.

The customizing aspect has already begun south of the border. In five years, says Hammonds, Hispanics will outnumber blacks in America as the largest ethnic group, and supermarkets are already catering to their tastes. Water update

Some weeks ago, we ran a section on bottled waters because sales have been going through the roof in recent years. Here's another twist to the story:

Vince DeBartolo of Massimo Pizza and Pasta (302 College St., west of Spadina Ave.) is making his pizza dough with spring water, "because I feel the (city's) water is not as good as it should be." He says the dough is lighter but not enough to be noticeable to the average pizza eater. But "people appreciate it," he says. Video revolution

We also did a section on video cookbooks a while back. Now the grand lady herself has put out a video show. You can have Julia Child teach you The Way To Cook poultry, meat, veggies, soups, salads and breads, fish and eggs, first courses and desserts - six different courses, each one costing $49.95. If you're interested, the distributor is Random House of Canada Ltd., 1265 Aerowood Drive, Mississauga, 624-0672. Good deal

Thank Goodness It's Friday, 204 Eglinton Ave. E. (485-1222), has a good deal on a food and movie package on Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays until the end of July, perhaps longer if it pans out. For $18.95 a couple, you get a choice of three entres in the restaurant and two Odeon/Cineplex theatre passes worth $11 that can be used Monday to Thursday in any of the company's theatres.

The entres are Fettuccine Alfredo with a Caesar salad, garlic bread, and ice cream; veal cutlet with a green salad, potato of your choice, veggies, and chocolate mousse; or filet of sole with potatoes, veggies, green salad and chocolate mousse. All three come with coffee and tea.

I have only eaten brunch at this restaurant, and that was years ago, but it sounds like a good deal to me. You should make reservations.

NEW DELHI, INDIA - NEW DELHI, India - One of the hotels here held a mango festival recently. As it turned out, it was more of a mango orgy; a truly magnificent excess in the name of India's favorite fruit, Mangifera indica.

June and July are the peak mango months in north India, the time when the fabled Lucknow varieties, the dusehri and the chowsa, ripen with a rosy blush and make their way to market in Delhi.

The fruit sellers arrange elaborate displays in their stalls, and the fruit is fondled, sniffed, compared, criticized, tasted and bought. Prices, by Indian standards, can be high; up to 50 cents a pound.

At this time of year - it is the hottest season here, when temperatures commonly exceed 110 degrees F - many middle-class families serve mangoes at every meal. The mango is often the only solace against the heat.

Long, detailed feature articles about mangoes appear in the newspapers here in June and July, along with color photographs.

A recent issue of the Patriot carried an article headlined "Sweetest Mango Rediscovered." Under a Bombay dateline, it said: "The wild mango of Borneo, described as the sweetest of all varieties in the tropics, has been rediscovered after 85 years of apparent extinction." The information was attributed to a group identified as the World Wildlife Fund International Union for Conservation of Nature, Wild Mango Project.

Scientific texts on mangoes make no mention of the "wild mango of Borneo . . . twice as big as the Indian one." This was clearly a bit of mango humor.

But the mango festival was no joke. It was serious mango time at the tables set up around the hotel's pool. Participants in the two-week festival were handed a mango-shaped menu offering mango cocktail, mango panna (green mango pulp mixed with water and salt that is reputed to be a cure for the effects of the hot afternoon wind, the loo) and chaat (mango with hot peppers and potatoes).

Diners had a choice of three main courses - chicken mango, mutton mango and vegetarian mixed mango chutney. Side dishes included Bombay red mango and curds, mango rice, mango salad and green mango bread, aam ka paratha. To wash it all down, there was mango punch, and for dessert there was sliced mango with cream, mango jam and a mango souffle.

There are reasons for this seemingly obsessive mania for mangoes, not the least of which is the excellent quality of India's mangoes. They have been perfected by more than 4,000 years of cultivation in soil and climate (mangoes need very high temperatures to ripen properly) ideally suited for the mango tree, which is native to the Indian subcontinent and the Indo-Malaysian archipelago.

There are more than 1,000 varieties of mango in India. About 65 per cent of the world's mangoes are grown here, although the fruit is also grown in 85 other countries, including the United States. Most American mangoes are grown in Florida, and Florida's mangoes can be traced to 35 trees shipped there from Calcutta in 1888.

It is difficult to describe the special taste of the Indian mango, possibly because there are so many varieties. The yellow langra mango and the safeda malihabad might be said by a novice to taste like an apple. Others taste like pears and still others like strawberries or peaches.

Yet many Indians can tell by simply smelling the fruit, or even the leaf from the tree, what variety of mango they are dealing with, and even the state and city where it was grown.

The Indians' love of mangoes is reflected in the names they give their fruits. Some have as many as 20 names. Some are named for kings (Himayuddin, Jehangir). Others bear the names of top administrative titles from the days of British rule (Jailor, Collector). One is simply called "the Fruit of Heaven."

Along with their love for the mango, Indians have a disdain for the ability of any non-Indian, particularly any Westerner, to appreciate its subtleties.

The greatest single obstacle challenging Westerners who want to affect some expertise in mangoes is the mango itself: How to eat it. Those who have confronted the fruit know the problem: The slipperiness of the fruit and the huge central seed that clings to the fruit.

Neophytes may approach the mango in the most disciplined manner, but even if the fruit is of the largest type - a wild mango of Borneo, perhaps - they are likely to end up covered with slime and with only a few shreds of meat to show for their hacking.

Indians, of course, have their own ways of getting around the problem; any youngster can expertly separate seed from fruit. But the most popular method requires no skill with a knife, as Louis Fischer reported in his biography of Mahatma Gandhi.

On being handed a mango, he said: "I began to peel it, and several people, Gandhi too, laughed. He explained that they usually turned it in their hands and squeezed it to make it soft and then sucked on one end . . . .'

Is it the gooseberry's thorny bush that makes picking a prickly chore? Or the topping and tailing - the time-consuming task of snipping off each berry's stem and blossom ends? Is it the berry's seediness? Or is it for all these reasons gooseberries have been kept out of the limelight?

Whatever the reason, gooseberries are one of the summer's under-appreciated tastes. Since July is the season for gooseberries, there is no time like this week to catch them before they're well and truly gone for another year.

Markets and greengrocers are the places to look, and you will usually find them in 1-pint containers. The berries vary - some are round, others slightly elongated and pointed. Smaller blueberry-sized berries are often cheaper than the cherry-sized specimens. But it takes more time to clean small berries.

For preserves, any one of these berries does very nicely. For desserts, since sweetness varies slightly, taste, and add more sugar if desired.

Old-Fashioned Gooseberry Jam

Either make the jam now, or top and tail the berries, freeze them and make the jam in the fall. Aside from preparing the berries, gooseberry jam is easy and quick to make, and mighty good on hot croissants. 6 cups gooseberries (1 1/2 quarts or 1 kg/2 lb) 1 1/2 cups water Granulated sugar

Wash 4 (250 mL/8 oz) and 1 (125 mL/4 oz) jars; place on a metal tray with a metal funnel, 1/2 cup (125 mL) measuring cup for pouring and a skewer. Sterilize in the oven for 15 minutes at 225 degrees F., timing the sterilization to finish at the same time as the jam. If the jam takes longer, turn off the heat in the oven and leave the jars until needed. Set 2 plates in the freezer for testing the jam.

Rinse the berries; top and tail. Place gooseberries and water in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan or jam pan and bring to a simmer over high heat. Reduce heat and continue simmering for 15 minutes, uncovered, until gooseberries are tender. Stir from time to time.

Measure gooseberries and liquid; combine with an equal quantity of granulated sugar in the same pan and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Boil vigorously, uncovered, for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring often, until the jam sets. To test for setting point, remove pan from heat, dribble a small spoonful on one of the cold plates. Let cool for a minute and run your finger through the jam. If the surface wrinkles, the jam is set. If not, return pan to heat and plate to freezer and continue cooking until a satisfactory test is achieved.

Skim off any foam. Using sterilized cup and funnel, pour jam into hot sterilized jars, leaving 1/2 inch headspace. Let stand for 10 minutes; cover with a thin layer of melted paraffin wax, tilting and rotating each jar while the wax is still liquid to extend the seal right to the rim. Prick any air holes with the skewer and let cool completely. Cover with a second layer of wax, similarly applied. Cover jars with clean lids, wipe and store away from heat, light and damp.

Makes about 4 (250 mL/8 oz.) jars plus a taster for the cook's best friend's breakfast. Gooseberry and Golden Sultana Chutney

Follow the instructions for sterilizing and filling jars in the Old-Fashioned Gooseberry Jam when preparing this deep golden, slightly nippy and spicy relish. Serve with Jamaican patties, mushroom or meat turnovers, or tourtiere pies in the winter. Or blend with nuts into cream cheese for a quick spread for crackers or filling for celery sticks. 4 cups gooseberries (1 quart or 625 g/1 lb 6 oz) 1 1/2 cups chopped onions 1 cup firmly packed brown sugar 1 cup cider vinegar

cup golden sultana raisins

1/4 cup chopped sweet red bell pepper 1 tsp ground ginger 1 tsp whole mustard seed

3/4 tsp salt

1/4 tsp tumeric

1/4 tsp cayenne pepper

Sterilize 3 (250 mL/8 oz) and 1 (125 mL/4 oz) jars according to instructions with Old-Fashioned Gooseberry Jam.

Rinse, top and tail gooseberries. Combine with onions, sugar, vinegar, raisins, chopped red pepper, ginger, mustard seed, salt, tumeric and cayenne pepper in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan. Bring to a boil, uncovered and stirring frequently. Reduce heat and simmer until chutney thickens and turns a rich golden brown, about 20 to 30 minutes. Stir often, especially near the end of the cooking time.

Pour into prepared jars and seal with melted wax.

Makes 3 (250 mL/8 oz) jars and a smaller taster. For a large quantity, double all ingredients except salt. Increase salt to 1 tsp and cook for 30 to 45 minutes.

Gooseberry Cream Fool

The word fool, as has been incorrectly reported, has nothing to do with the French word "fouler" to crush. Fools, like trifles, are lighthearted, foolishly good desserts.

2 cups gooseberries (1 pint 350 g/t+0 12 oz) 1 tbsp water

1/2 cup granulated sugar 2 tsp cornstarch

1/2 cup cream cheese (4 oz/125 g)

1/4 cup icing sugar 1 tsp vanilla 1 cup whipping cream 1 tsp coarsely grated orange rind Fresh mint sprigs

Rinse, top and tail gooseberries. Combine in a heavy-bottomed saucepan with the water. In a small measuring cup, stir together the granulated sugar and cornstarch. Sprinkle over the berries, stir well and bring to a simmer, stirring frequently. Cover and cook over low heat, stirring from time to time, until the berries pop and the juices thicken evenly, about 5 to 10 minutes. Let cool, stirring a few times. Cover and keep cold if making in advance.

In a bowl and using an electric beater, or in a workbowl fitted with the metal blade, beat cream cheese until soft and smooth. Beat in icing sugar, vanilla, whipping cream a quarter of a cup at a time and the grated orange rind.

Spoon layers of berry compote and cream mixture into 6 glass wine glasses, beginning with berries. Keep chilled for up to a day. Garnish with mint sprigs.

Makes 6 servings.

FERGUS FALLS, Minn. - FERGUS FALLS, Minn. (AP) - When Ethel Barker and Debbie Emery prepare a meal, nobody walks away from the table - at least they don't walk far.

The mother and daughter serve their fare on gleaming silver trays, and one might even refer to the delivery of their cuisine as "room service."

They are cooking and serving meals to a captive audience - inmates at the Otter Tail County Jail.

Barker and Emery, who work along with Alice Beske, say cooking for the prisoners is no different than cooking for anybody else.

Although the meals are served through a window with metal bars, the three say they've never had a problem with the inmates.

"Most of the prisoners are considerate," Barker said. "Some say thanks, some say it was good and some look at you like you're trying to poison them."

Even though the prisoners are friendly, the cooks have to keep a close count of the silverware. All the kitchen utensils are counted every night, Barker said, "and if there's one missing they go looking for it."

The women don't have any contact with dangerous criminals, who are kept in isolation. The jailers take the food to those inmates.

Mother and daughter begin work at 6 a.m. weekdays, preparing breakfast, lunch and dinner for the jail residents. Beske serves the evening meal, and the three rotate solo shifts on the weekend.

Pizza and hamburgers are some of the prisoners' favorites, the cooks said. Emery's french toast is also a big hit, with some of the inmates eating six or seven slices.

"When you multiply that by 28 prisoners, that's a lot of bread," Emery said.

Cereal, pancakes or eggs are on the breakfast menu. On Sunday morning, each prisoner gets two sweet rolls.

Dinner is everyday fare such as roast, meat loaf, turkey or fish, Barker said, "but no steak."

The jail is usually filled to capacity, with 28 mouths to feed in addition to the jailers and the dispatcher, who cannot leave his post.

Barker began cooking for the prisoners part-time in 1975 with Esther Mortensen, wife of former sheriff Carlton Mortensen. Barker says Mortensen told her to keep the prisoners well-fed.

"He told me to keep them full, and they'd be less apt to argue or fight," Barker says. "I believe that. I really do."

Barker formerly cooked at the Fergus Falls Senior High School, Emery previously cooked at a local restaurant and Beske picked up her culinary experience cooking for her five children.

Barker plans the menus and does the grocery shopping for the jail, buying some of the food from sales representatives and some from local grocery stores. Milk is delivered, and the bakery is just across the street.

"I clip coupons and buy on special, just like I do at home," Barker says.

The cooks occasionally try out new recipes on the prisoners.

"If they don't like (a new recipe) here, I don't try it when I get home," Emery said.

Of the countless meals we experience in the course of a lifetime, memories of summer picnics are among those that linger longest.

Who cares about ants, occasional damp days, warm and flat ginger ale, and sandwiches dropped in the sand? It's the sun-warmed rocks or cool moss or walks in the woods that stick.

Picnics are the height of informal entertaining no matter what you serve, or how elegantly they are served. It just isn't possible to be formal sitting on a rock, a log, or sprawled across a blanket. Picnics are for relaxing. Food preparation, it is hoped, has been taken care of earlier.

It's a holiday for children, too. Parents don't mind where the watermelon seeds fly, or how, or who propels the slippery black projectiles. Finger licking, if not encouraged, is at least tolerated for the day.

Day or night

Although artists and poets portray picnics in the most bucolic of settings, not all picnics need be crowned by a ring of wild daisies. Some memorable ones can take place in the very heart of a busy city, above the noisy traffic on top of a high-rise apartment, under the stars as well as the sun.

Fried chicken, lemonade, brownies, potato salad, and the like have become all too ordinary picnic fare. As good as they are, you're not breaking any law by not including any one of them.

Picnic food does not have to be traditional, expected, ordinary, or dull. A spread on a blanket should be no more limiting than one served at a dining-room table.

It was the British who raised the picnic to an event of glorious abundance during the Victorian era. It's obvious from her Book of Household Management of the period that Mrs. Isabella Beeton really knew how to fill a picnic hamper. Her picnic menu for 40 included: "A joint of cold roast beef, a joint of cold boiled beef, 2 ribs of lamb, 2 shoulders of lamb, 4 roast fowls, 2 roast ducks, 1 ham, 1 tongue, 2 veal and ham pies, 2 pigeon pies, 6 medium lobsters, 1 piece of collard calveshead, 18 lettuces, 6 baskets of salad, 6 cucumbers." Of course, she had to save room for dessert!

Cold meals

The point here - something the British have known for quite a while - is that most any cooked meat, fish, or vegetable is just as delicious served cold. A good Dijon mustard or mayonnaise whipped up with an appropriate herb of your choice makes an added "frosting."

You may want to give your picnic a theme. Perhaps an ethnic picnic based on your own family roots. Or you might find out what those strange-looking exotic fruits you've seen at the supermarket are and bring some along.

Artichokes, cooked earlier in the day and served cold at a picnic with an herb mayonnaise, add a touch of elegance to a picnic. Other possibilities might be a cold fruit dessert soup, a new kind of bread, and an interesting salad.

If it's a picnic for adults who may appreciate a little unexpected elegance, bring along some good china, silverware, and linen napkins. A fine damask tablecloth instead of a blanket, or even an old worn Oriental rug, topped off with a glittering silver candelabrum? If you're serving cold bottled drinks, polish the old family ice bucket as well. Why not?

If it's a paper-plate affair, try to find some of those wicker holders that prevent the plates from folding in half and emptying their contents on the nearest guest. For kids, take plastic forks - the sturdy kind, not those cheap ones - paper cups, and simple, manageable food. And a picnic is no place to ruin Johnny's day by making him finish a tongue and horseradish sandwich. He can clean up his plate at home.

Remember Mrs. Beeton, and don't skimp. Be sure to bring plenty of food and drink. And running out of ice is a minor disaster.

Relief may be on the way for Ontario's red meat producers.

Federal and provincial agriculture ministers, with the exception of Quebec's Jean Garon, have agreed to have representatives of their governments meet in Ottawa next Wednesday or Thursday to hammer out the specifics of a national red meat stabilization plan.

The 10-government consensus announced in St. John's yesterday at the conclusion of the federal-provincial agriculture minister's conference is a "move towards useful discussion" on how to provide fair support and competition between Canada's beef, pork and lamb producers, federal minister John Wise said in a telephone interview from Newfoundland.

The move comes on the eve of an expected ruling by the United States International Trade Commission on whether the temporary tariff on Canadian hog and pork imports should be made permanent because of unfair edge given to provincially subsidized Canadian producers.

Some of the provinces, including Ontario, believe the countervail duties, which affect 30 per cent of Ontario's pork production, could be avoided if Canada had one national program.

Legislation allowing a national subsidy program between producers, the provinces and the federal government was passed in the last session of Parliament, but Wise said he can't impose an agreement on the provinces to drop their existing subsidy programs in favor of a national plan.

Arriving at Anarkali on the second floor of a theatre, you almost expect to smell fresh paint.

Its only decorations consist of a few plastic flowers perched high on one wall and a stack of beer cases in the corner of the open room, which give it an unsettled look that might explain the kinks in the kitchen. But the restaurant, open for two years next month, should have had time to iron them out.

Our meal started promising enough with Dhal Bhajia ($2), appetizing deep-fried balls of mashed lentils served with a fiery green chili and coconut relish. The Vegetable Samosa appetizer ($2.25), a flavorful grouping of peas, carrots and corn in a light deep-fried crust, with a tart but sweet tamarind sauce, proved to be the highlight of the evening.

The East African style menu, the Indian owner who hails from that region says, features fresh (rather than powder) spices and ingredients. But the tomatoes, onions and chili peppers in the house specialty, Ginger Butter Chicken ($5.95), were barely discernible and the shredded ginger tasted only sweet.

The sauce, spooned over a tender leg and half breast, could have been less oily and hotter - in spiciness and temperature.

The freshness of the potatoes, peas and eggplant of the Royal Dinner's vegetable curry was lost in the cooking. Salvation was not to be found in the sauce, which, although mild and palatable, arrived barely warm and slicked with oil.

The stewing beef of the meat curry floated in a similar sauce, but of middling spiciness. The $9.95 dinner also included appetizer, fluffy white rice, roti (tortilla), papadum (a condiment that never arrived, with the server's polite apology), dessert and coffee.

With a half bottle of wine ($9.50) and tip, dinner was $34. - Susie Lazaruk

The Star's daily restaurant review

TABLE FOR TWO Anarkali Restaurant 1430 Gerrard St. E. 469-0000 East African style Indian cuisine; seats 36; entrees $5.95 to $9.95; full licence; open 1 p.m. to 10 p.m. Monday to Friday, noon to midnight Saturday and Sunday; no facilities for handicapped; no no-smoking area; reservations recommended on weekends; takes most cards.

Judy Landers' love affair with fitness plays a strong role in shaping her sense of style. The Los Angeles actress, who acted in the TV series Vegas with Robert Urich and learned to operate an 18-wheel rig truck for her co-starring role in the series B. J. And The Bear, was in Toronto recently to guest-star in an episode of CTV's The Comedy Factory.

Landers made her acting debut at 16 in the TV movie Whatever Happened To The Class Of '65? Her sister, Audrey, plays a regular role on Dallas.

At home Landers relaxes in exercise clothes and doesn't bother about her hair and makeup. "But when I go out, I like all-out glamour."

Here are her fashion and beauty philosophies.

Skin care: "I'm crazy about the beach," says Landers, who tans her body but uses a sun block to protect her face. She heals a sunburn with Aloe Vera cream.

Landers washes her face twice a day with Noxema cold cream and puts on a moisturizer with collagen content. On days when her skin seems oily, she uses Sea Breeze astringent with extra alcohol.

Makeup: "I probably have one makeup product from every company," says Landers, who loves experimenting with different makeup shades. She gives her face a year-round golden glow with Max Factor's Suntone makeup base, peach powder blush and light lip gloss.

Hair: Landers had eight inches trimmed from her curly blonde hair for a recent role on Love Boat. "Before that, I didn't get my hair cut for two years." She washes her hair daily with Johnson's Baby Shampoo and follows with Flex conditioner.

Since Landers uses hot rollers regularly, she applies Vidal Sassoon's protein pack every week to combat dryness.

Fashion: Landers' predominantly pink wardrobe includes 80 bikinis from around the world, 40 angora sweaters and several bold-shouldered shirts. "I like to buy comfortable clothes." She often wears roomy jogging suits to rehearsals.

Comfort isn't as important as glamour when it comes to formal occasions. For cocktail parties and awards dinners, Landers dresses up in beaded and sequin-studded gowns by designer Jeran. She might finish off her outfit with an ermine fur coat handed down from her great-grandmother.

Fitness: A former competitive gymnast, Landers has been exercising since age 5. She became the New York State gymnastics champion at age 16. "I still work out at least three times a week. I make it a priority." Landers demonstrated her athletic abilities on several appearances on the TV show Circus Of The Stars, on which she did a series of aerial stunts wearing roller skates.

Diet: Wholewheat bread, oranges, melon and shrimp help the 5-foot, 3 1/2-inch actress control her weight at 107 pounds. Landers hasn't eaten meat or poultry since she was 14 years old. "They don't appeal to me." She occasionally snacks on honey vanilla ice cream.

The patient was a 30-year-old male with a seven-year history of passing excessive gas. Extensive testing, including multiple x-rays and direct looks at his gut with a scope, were normal.

Treatment with simethicone, charcoal, neomycin, antispasmotics and even bacterial culture failed. The patient kept meticulous records of rectal gas passage. Over two years, he averaged 34 flati per day. A group of age-matched control men averaged 14 flati per day.

Part of the problem was milk sugar. After a test meal containing two glasses of milk, he produced about 800 mL of rectal gas over four hours compared to less than 100 mL by normal males. When a test meal without milk was ingested, he produced the same quantity of gas as those in the control group. His deficiency of the enzyme lactase caused milk sugars to pass unabsorbed into his colon, where they were fermented by bacteria.

But lactose or milk sugar wasn't the entire answer. On a lactose-free diet, gas passage was reduced to an average 25 flati per day. So, he began an elimination diet. In the end, he was able to reduce flatus production to an average of 16.8 per day. When his diet was tried on three other excessive gas passers, it proved successful with two. If you're interested in giving it a try, here is what he found.

Normal levels of gas production occurred with meat, fowl, fish, lettuce, cucumber, broccoli, peppers, avocado, cauliflower, tomato, asparagus, zucchini, okra, olives, cantaloupe, grapes, berries, rice, corn chips, potato chips, popcorn, graham crackers, nuts, eggs, non-milk chocolates, Jello, fruit ice and water.

Gas production rose from 19 or fewer passages per day to a maximum of 40 per day with pastries, potatoes, eggplant, citrus fruit, apples and bread - and to more than 40 passages per day with milk and milk products, onions, beans, celery, carrots, raisins, bananas, apricots, prune juice, pretzels, bagels, wheat germ, and Brussels sprouts.

Now, for insurance, I'll share some of the other advice gleaned from the medical literature. First, if you can find someone to perform a gas analysis and it's determined that your flati contain a high percentage of nitrogen, then it's likely that much of your gas is swallowed. If the analysis shows high quantities of hydrogen and carbon dioxide, dietary manipulation is worthwhile as gut production is the problem.

Some patients have been treated with antibiotics to rid them of gas-producing bacteria. Unless bacterial overgrowth in the small bowel is proven, the risks of experimenting with antibiotics likely outweigh the potential benefits. Some studies have shown that they may actually increase gas production. As well, they may cause antibiotic-associated colitis. In general, antibiotics are a no-no for run-of-the-mill gas producers.

Simethicone, found in some antacids and available as Oval drops, makes tiny gas bubbles coalesce into big ones. Some studies have shown it beneficial in both burpers and flatus passers. Others haven't. Since the drug doesn't have any serious side effects, a trial is worthwhile.

Antispasmotics, or so called intestinal relaxant drugs, may or may not help. They do have side effects, one of the more common being dry mouth, which might result in increased air swallowing. Antacids, in theory, should neutralize acids in the stomach, hence, reducing gas production in the small intestine. Whether or not they produce any practical benefit is debatable. While worth a try, remember that magnesium-containing ones tend to produce loose stools while aluminum hydroxide tends to constipate. Metoclopramide (Maxeran) speeds up stomach emptying and may be worth a try if you suffer from post-meal fullness and bloating.

Kaolin and pectin (Kaopectate), chalk and charcoal have all been recommended. Activated charcoal may be worth a try. It's non-toxic and a number of studies have found it effective. One study that I read found that bismuth subsalicylate (Pepto-Bismol) was better than placebo in reducing a sense of fullness, abdominal distension and flatulence. And finally, on the subject of drugs, stay away from tranquillizers. Without doubt, excess gas production can result from anxiety and stress; however, learning to relax and deal with your problems is the answer here.

Back to diet. Yogurt has been shown to be okay for some people suffering from lactase deficiency. Lactobacillus acidophilus culture doesn't seem to be of much benefit. Lactaid, a commercially available enzyme that you can put in milk, may be helpful. Peppermint, cloves, cinnamon and ginger all may help you burp. And then there's fibre. While it may make your gut healthier, most people will find that it increases gas production.

Finally, your doctor should help you rule out malabsorption syndromes, peptic ulcer disease, gallstones or stool infestation with giardia as well as other causes of gas production before you start experimenting. And good luck, I hope today's column results in more than hot air!

The views expressed are those of the author, a practising physician. While Dr. Seiden welcomes suggestions for future columns, he cannot treat medical problems by mail. Readers should consult their own doctors.

WARSAW - WARSAW - As the fifth anniversary of the turbulent August that spawned the Solidarity trade union revolt nears, the Polish government is confidently pursuing harsher, more restrictive policies.

The crackdown is rooted in the belief that the political opposition has been divided, Western diplomats and Polish analysts say.

Since Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev's visit to Warsaw in April, Gen. Wojciech Jaruzelski's government has carried out several stern actions, including food price increases, longer prison terms for dissidents and new curbs on academic freedoms.

On Thursday, for instance, the parliament overwhelmingly approved changes in the 1982 Education Act that will ban political activity in universities and make it easier for the government to dismiss teachers.

The coincidence does not surprise Soviet bloc analysts who believe Gorbachev insisted on a crackdown.

While disdain for the Communist authorities seems as profound as ever, the harsh measures have provoked few signs of unrest. The public mood seems more sullen than angry.

Slice of power

The subdued response has stemmed in part from continuing disarray within the leadership of the banned Solidarity movement over which strategy to follow in challenging official policies.

While some opposition spokesmen believe it is inevitable that economic troubles and public disgust with communism will erode the government's authority, pragmatic leaders such as Lech Walesa believe Solidarity must stop being solely a protest movement and come forward with practical social and economic proposals of its own.

Last week the Solidarity underground called upon supporters to boycott elections to the Polish legislature Oct. 13. But opposition figures have argued in favor of participation, if only to test the government's offer to permit the fair election of some non-Communist independents to the 460-seat assembly.

"Part of Solidarity wants to grab whatever slice of power it can get right now, while another part says it is only a matter of time before the government can be brought to its knees," a Western diplomat said. "As a result, you have something close to paralysis."

The debate, however polarizing, demonstrates the extraordinarily vibrant life within Poland's political underground. Even if the government maintains the upper hand in enforcing policy, the opposition continues to stimulate and set the pace for political thought.

The election will be a central test in a revived propaganda battle between Solidarity and the government. It is expected to intensify in August with the commemoration of the dramatic events five years ago that gave birth to the anti-Communist trade union movement.

Jaruzelski

Walesa, now vacationing with relatives outside Warsaw, has promised in recent interviews to announce ideas for specific reforms next month so that Solidarity supporters can demonstrate in favor of something instead of just against government proposals.

Walesa's emphasis on the need to propose reforms has emerged out of concern that Solidarity has concentrated too much on street and factory protests that have proved largely ineffective, while the government has been pushing through tough new measures.

The government won a major gamble this month when it completed a three-stage plan raising food and meat prices 10 to 15 per cent without inciting significant protests. In 1980, an attempt to increase meat prices triggered the rebellion that led to Solidarity's creation.

This time, the Communist government was so confident the new price increases would not cause trouble that it did not bother to summon extra security forces to critical street and factory sites in Gdansk and Warsaw.

The Solidarity leadership had called for a one-hour work stoppage, but Western diplomats said the protests had little impact because they were largely invisible to the public.

Monument unveiled

Unlike last year, when the authorities released more than 600 political prisoners as a conciliatory gesture, this year has given the government no cause to solicit co-operation from its political opponents.

It also unveiled a big bronze monument last weekend to honor the 22,000 members of the internal security forces who died putting down anti-Communist resistance fighters after World War II.

Last October, several security policemen were tried and convicted of the grisly slaying of the pro-Solidarity priest Jerzy Popieluszko.

Paying homage to the security police so soon after the trial was "like pouring salt into the wounds of the political opposition," a Western diplomat said.

Seated in a decorously popular Japanese restaurant, handling chopsticks with practised dexterity, discussing her work and her social concerns, Marilyn Walker appears to be a typical, attractive, young, upwardly mobile, fashionably professional person.

Then she discusses having eaten lichens scooped from the steaming stomach of a freshly killed caribou. "Lichens aren't easy for humans to digest directly," she explains. "Native people eat the contents of caribou stomachs to supplement a primarily meat and fish diet."

Thinking her interviewer might be a little squeamish about the thought of dining upon the partly digested contents of a caribou's stomach, Walker shifts verbal gears and talks about the importance of wild plants to the northerner's diet. "Wild growing plants are free, sometimes even more nutritious than farm grown varieties and often they are ready for harvesting before fresh farm produce is available in the supermarket."

Marilyn Walker is assistant head of exhibit design services at the Royal Ontario Museum. She holds a master's degree in anthropology and is working toward a PhD. She is the author of a new, authoritative book that fits well into any trend-conscious urbanite's Canadiana library but also could save lives and already is helping to protect a cultural heritage.

Harvesting The Northern Wild is a compact book which, like its author, is more than first appearances might suggest. Ostensibly this is a field guide to wild, edible plants, complete with recipes. It belongs in backpacks and beside campfires and in wilderness areas where the information it contains could mean survival.

The book can also be used by any southern city dweller who might want to surprise the family with a "wild pizza" or serve guests a helping of buttered chickweed.

Most of the plant species featured are common in southern Canada. The excellent line drawings by Winnipeg artist Linda Fairfield make it easy for non-botanists to find and identify taste treats disguised as common weeds.

But the book is not only another guide to edible plants. Marilyn Walker has lived with the native peoples of the north. She respects them and appreciates their concerns. "It's easier to do things to people up there than down here," she says of the north. "Industry and government can get away with more up there."

Northern people have been forced into a regionalized version of the 20th century. "Their lifestyles are varied. Most are not obtaining subsistence from the land anymore. Some spend part of the year in the wilderness, living off the land, but come into towns and settlements to give their children a different type of education."

As a student Walker became interested in northern peoples when she travelled and studied in the Northwest Territories.

She discovered that while much had been written about the history of the Cree, there was very little known about the Dene.

She became fascinated by written accounts of northern explorers, naturalists and other observers. Harvesting The Northern Wild contains writings of Franklin, Mackenzie, Richardson, Hearne, Ross, Whitney and other names from Canada's history, placing the use of wild, northern plants into an historical and social context.

Marilyn Walker is deeply concerned about industrial megaprojects whose implementation can alter vast areas of northland the southern decision makers do not understand, and can damage the lives and destroy the traditions of people the decision makers do not know.

"When I first heard of plans to change the drainage of James Bay to provide water for the south I thought it was a joke," says Walker. "The north isn't an empty, barren wilderness. It contains complex and variable societies and ecosystems."

Harvesting The Northern Wild helps northerners to appreciate their own histories and traditional abilities and brings a greater understanding of the north to others.

The book is popular in downtown Toronto and in the land of the Hare, the Dogrib, the Chipewyan and the Slavey peoples of the Northwest Territories.

They, too, are described in a book that is a functional tribute to the north and its people.

Gold stocks were again the story on the Toronto market today, although the numerous gains were not enough to pull the over-all market higher.

The 300-price composite index was down 13.71 points to 2791.0 at noon, with transportation, communications and industrial products stocks showing the greatest weakness.

But numerous winning mine stocks pushed the number of advancing issues ahead of the declines - 217 to 182 - as excitement over gold stocks continued in the wake of the unrest in South Africa, a major gold producer.

The price of gold bullion closed in London this afternoon at $325.85 (U.S.) an ounce, up from $318.50 Friday.

Among the Lac group of companies, whose shareholders were meeting today to approve an amalgamation plan, Little Long Lac was up $1.88 to $80.75, Lake Shore $2 to $97.50 and Lac Minerals remained unchanged at $34.50.

Giant Yellowknife was up $2.50 to $19.38, Campbell Red Lake 88 cents to $33.25 and Galactic Resources rose 38 cents to $13.25.

Earnings report

Stelco, reporting better earnings Friday, was down $1.13 cents to $22.25. Blue chip forms maker Moore Corp., which was down last week, lost another 50 cents to $26.75.

Bank stocks were also lower, with Bank of Montreal off 75 cents to $29.88 and Royal Bank losing 25 cents to $31.

Kitchener meat packer Heritage Group A was up $1.50 to $20 in the wake of a favorable trade ruling affecting exports of processed pork to the United States.

Retailer Dylex A was down $2.25 to $20.75 on a small trade, Northern Telecom 75 cents to $52 and Canadian Pacific Enterprises 63 cents to $28.25.

Among major miners, Inco was down 25 cents to $20.25, Noranda unchanged at $17.25 and Alcan unchanged at $37.75.

Computer Innovations, which gained 27 per cent last week after it was announced Bell Cnaada Enterprises wants to acquire control, was up another 5 cents to $3.35.

Being told by Canadian culturecrats that his movies are detrimental to humanity hasn't kept Demetrios Estdelacropolis down.

After the quasi-international success of his flagrantly aggravating movie Mother's Meat And Freud's Flesh, the 23-year-old Montreal film-maker is shooting his second feature, Shirley Pimple.

Mother's Meat, not to be confused with the Vancouver cult flick Big Meat Eater, grabbed the spotlight when it appeared as the lone Canadian feature movie invited to last year's Berlin Film Festival.

A comedy of the grotesque about a young Greek porn actor's obsession with his blowsy, bleached-blonde mother (New York housewife Esther Vargas), the movie's indulgent repetitiveness seems like a fiendish plot by the film-maker to create a huge headache.

"Structurally retarded with a snail's pace," is how Estdelacropolis describes the $15,000 movie, in which he stars as the sickly looking porn actor Demira.

When Mother's Meat was shown at the U.S. Independent Film Festival in Utah, a Mormon gentleman disliked it so much that he presented the film-maker with a dried-up llama fetus.

"On awards night," recalls Estdelacropolis, "the winner, Joel Cohen, director of Blood Simple, wanted to trade me his plaque for the llama fetus."

Mother's Meat has been shown at 15 international film festivals, as far away as Australia and New Zealand, but has yet to find theatrical distribution. Estdelacropolis says the movie

got its warmest reception in Toronto and Turin, Italy, but he

has no idea why. Subversive take-off

Shirley Pimple, as the title hints, will be a subversive take-off of the 1930s Hollywood child star Shirley Temple. Its budget could hit the dizzying figure of $60,000.

In the plot, Shirley Pimple is the star of movies made by a right-wing propaganda organization called the John Wayne Tap Dancing Institute for the Preservation of American Ideals.

Because ringleted Shirley is deaf, she is immune to the institute's indoctrination, and when her movie career begins to wane she plans a takeover coup. She also becomes obsessed with killing the legend of John Wayne.

"The movie will have a para-military undertone," says the director, who is trying for permission to shoot Shirley Pimple at the U.S Air Force Base in Plattsburg, N.Y., at various Canadian air force bases and aboard the Intrepid, an American destroyer.

A film-school dropout, Estdelacropolis started shooting the movie in 1981 when its Montreal star Chelsea McIsaac was seven. Alas, Chelsea is now 11 and looks less like Shirley Temple than she once did - but the show must go on.

Vargas, whom the director discovered when she was having an asthma attack in the lobby of Montreal's YWCA, will play Shirley's possessive stage mother.

Shirley Pimple is being produced by the director's film company, East of the Acropolis Films, and financed through tax write offs from small investors.

Government film-funding bodies have refused to invest.

Council not impressed

The director says he has been told by the Canada Council that his ideas reflect "a certain dislike of humanity." He neither confirms nor denies this.

Back in 1982 the council, under its Explorations Program, gave Estdelacropolis $8,205 for a movie that would show the teaching of creative arts to deaf children.

But the project (it had the working title Deafness and the Fine Art of Tap Dancing) didn't get very far because he couldn't find a school for the deaf that would co-operate.

And teachers responded to him, he says, as if he were a child molester.

HE looked to the horizon where the mountains stood, shimmering and purple in the dead heat. The plain stretched out before him like a parched yellow tongue. Here and there smooth stones protruded from the cracked earth like wandering nomads lying down to die. The wind sang in a low mournful tone and brushed its gritty cloak against the boy's smooth, dark skin.

Behind him he could hear sandals shuffling in the sand as two men lifted his father's body. He turned around and joined his waiting mother and sister. They made their way up the hill together in silence.

The small procession reached the top of the hill and the men gingerly set down their burden. They stood outside the Zawya and waited. A sweet smell emanated from the small wooden hut: a sickly smell. It was the smell of death. It penetrated the boy's nostrils and lodged itself in his mind. He could not ignore it.

The Jenaza-atabi appeared from behind the hut carrying a large clay bowl. He dropped to his knees and bent over the withered body. Then he grasped a handful of wet leaves and began bathing it with tepid water.

The boy wondered why this precious moisture was being wasted on the dead when it could be used to preserve the living. But he did not voice his thoughts, for he knew that tradition must be upheld even under the most dire circumstances. It was the only constant in a changing world and his people clung to it; even in death.

He looked to his mother and sister and saw what this latest change had wreaked in them. They returned his stare with sharp, dark eyes. He saw the fear and confusion twitch in every muscle of their faces. They searched his mind and soul with feverish gazes. He could feel their overwhelming need rush in upon him. For 14 years they had lived in want - never enough food, never enough water. Now the one who had supported them was gone and they were alone. His mother and sister looked to him for survival. He was their last hope. He saw it in their eyes and it made him afraid.

* * *

He had heard rumors of villages on the southern edge of the Danakil Desert where great flying machines brought in food day after day. Someone said they came from the white men across the sea.

He had never been to the sea and he had only seen one white man in his life. The man had driven in on a machine that roared like a lion and ran faster than a bushbuck. He jumped out of his machine and began clicking a little box and writing things down. He clicked at the living, the dying and the dead. He clicked at the huts made out of wood, mud and reeds. He even clicked at the barren fields, now windswept by dust, and the rotting carcasses of dead goats.

Soon after he left, the last trickle of water in the river bed had dried up. The wells had to be dug even deeper. Many people blamed it on the white man. Now the white men were their only hope.

The sun beat down on the boy's shoulders as he stood outside his home. The Kheat was searing. He walked into the coolness of the mud hut and waited for his eyes to adjust to the darkness. He saw his mother seated in the corner. She cradled her frail daughter in her arms. She started and looked up when he came in. A tattered cloth was draped over her thin shoulders and tied about her waist. It was stained with tears and dust.

"Your sister is sick," she said to the boy.

"What's wrong with her?"

"She's going to die."

"No, she's not."

"Yes, she is," said the mother. She started to cry. "I can't go through this again," she said between sobs, choking on her own words. She was trying to hold back the tears, but it was no use. The boy knelt before her and grasped her shoulders. He could feel the sharp bones through the tattered cloth. He shook her gently.

"We'll go south," he assured her. "There's food and doctors there. Real doctors that can help her."

"It's too far. We'll never make it."

"We have to try."

She looked at his face and saw the determination there.

"All right, we'll try," she said.

"Good. We'd better start getting ready. I'll see if I can find any water to take with us." He got to his feet and helped his mother carry his sister to the mat of reeds.

"She's going to be fine," he said. His mother nodded. He walked out of the darkened hut and into the blazing sun. It did not feel so hot any more.

* * *

They left at dawn. The sun was just below the horizon and a few red rays pushed back the night. It was as if the desert were submerged in a pool of blood. The air was cold and it stole warmth from the flesh. The boy shivered and thought about the heat that was only a few hours away. And when it came he would think about the coolness of a few hours ago. At first he had trouble deciding which was worse. Then he settled on the heat. The cold only made you uncomfortable; the heat killed.

HIS mother walked beside him and stared at the ground. She was carrying her daughter in a basket on her back. Intermittently the small girl would rise to consciousness and mumble or cry out. The mother reached back and stroked the child's hair while speaking in the low soothing tones which served to comfort herself as well as her daughter.

As the day wore on the sun grew hotter and higher in the sky. Miles of fractured earth passed beneath their feet. The air in the distance danced and quivered restlessly. The heat was reflected

by the flat plain and it left behind shimmering puddles.

The boy's throat grew dryer and he thought more and more about the skin full of muddy water at his side. But he would have to do without it. His sister, in her feverish state, needed it more than he did.

He took the waterskin from his shoulder and passed it to his mother. She opened it and dribbled some water into her daughter's mouth. Then she poured some into her hand and put it on the child's face in a vain attempt to break the fever. She passed the skin back to him without taking any herself.

"You've got to drink something," he said.

"No, I don't need it."

"Yes, you do."

"I don't want any," she said in a severe tone.

He sighed and let his hands drop to his sides. He worried about her. She had not taken any water since they left and it was growing late. Neither had he, but he felt he did not need it. She did.

Slowly the sky turned blood red once more. Cool tendrils of darkness crept through the air until the plain was awash in eerie light. The boy began gathering firewood. By the time darkness fell he had collected a large pile of brush, twigs, a few logs and some dried droppings for kindling.

They stopped and sat down. The mother gently laid the girl's head in her lap and wiped her forehead with a damp corner of her torn clothing. The child opened her eyes and tried to say something. But the mother laid her finger across her lips.

"Hush," she whispered. "You go to sleep now. Everything will be fine in the morning." The mother began singing a lullaby older than the wind brushing past them. The little girl smiled, closed her eyes and went to sleep. Then the mother lay down alongside her child and shut her eyes.

The boy finished making the fire and struck the flint to it. The dry brush caught immediately. The darkness leapt back from the crackling flame and formed a close circle around the three people. He stretched out on the cool desert floor and gazed upward. A hundred million watch fires winked back at him. He listened to the shallow, erratic breathing of his sister. He listened for the sound of his mother's breathing.

It was not there.

He wrenched himself on to his side and searched the night for her silhouette. Her chest was still. He leapt to his feet and ran over to her. He grabbed her shoulders and shook her body. She did not move. She was gone.

Tears of precious water streamed down his cheeks.

Crying, he put his ear to her chest. All he heard was the wind.

* * *

By the end of the morning he had finished building his mother's burial mound. The desert took life away and gave stones in return.

He did not have time for mourning, so he gently lifted his sleeping sister and continued his journey. She mumbled, then opened her eyes and blinked against the sun's small, bright disk.

"Mama?" she said.

"Mother's sleeping."

"No, she isn't. It's daytime," the small girl said. There was a frantic edge to her voice. "Where's mama?" she said, trying to break loose from her brother's arms.

"I told you. She's very tired and she's getting some rest," the boy said. He was struggling to keep his voice level.

"No, no, I don't believe you . . . " But she was still in the clutches of a fever. Her voice faded away and she passed out again. He rubbed some more water on her forehead and body. He tried to ignore the aching in his parched throat.

His thoughts moved from the aching in his throat to the aching in his stomach. He felt the pangs in his abdomen and realized how hungry his sister must be. He squinted and looked into the distance for any sign of life.

There was a small group of trees off to the left. The leaves were wilted and the dry branches creaked in the wind. He made his way to the clump of dying vegetation and carefully set the small girl in the shade of one of the larger trees.

His keen eye picked out one entrance to a burrow in the sand. There were empty nut shells scattered around the opening. Another entrance lay about 10 feet away. He wondered how such a small animal could be so resourceful. While his mother and father had starved to death, this animal had been surviving. It must die. He could not let his sister go, too.

He picked up a stone in his left hand and another one in his right. He felt the weight of the left stone. Then, with a quick flick of his thin wrist, sent it down the hole. He listened to the faint scuffling in the ground and watched the other hole

through the trembling air. A small, furry rodent poked his head into the heat. The boy mustered all his strength and tossed the rock. It glanced off the rat's head and fell to the ground. The small animal collapsed, senseless. The boy smiled, picked up another stone and went over to finish the job.

He skinned and gutted the small carcass with a sharp rock and brought the thin strips of red meat to his sleeping sister. He squeezed her arm and said in a voice hoarse from thirst, "You must eat."

The small girl stirred and opened her eyelids. She studied her brother's face, but the light of recognition was gone from her eyes. She opened her mouth and he fed her a morsel of meat. She closed her mouth, chewed and swallowed. Open, close, chew, swallow. She went through the motions of eating without tasting or feeling the texture of the food on her tongue. When she slipped back into unconsciousness he had one strip of meat left in his hand. He put it away.

* * *

THE sun was sinking in the west again when he first caught a glimpse of the village. The image danced in the liquid air and faded in and out of sight until a glint off a tin roof would bring it back into focus. It should have caused an upwelling of joy and relief in him, but his body was filled with exhaustion, pain and hunger; nothing else could enter. He lifted his feet and let them fall again. He could not feel them. His arms had gone numb long ago under the weight of his sister's body. He walked on.

The village loomed larger and details began to resolve themselves. Hundreds of people scurried back and forth like frightened rats. He looked upward and saw what was causing all of the commotion. A great, dark machine was descending from the redness of the sky. It hung from thin blades which throbbed and quivered as they cut the hot, dry air. The noise was like the beat of a frightened animal's heart.

The people gathered around and some held their arms outstretched. He could see the faces of white men before a blast of wind from the machine obscured the crowd with sheets of dust.

It was on the ground by the time he wearily plodded into the village. One of the white men saw him and shouted to another, then pointed in his direction. They both ran over to him. One of the men took the small girl from his arms and called for a doctor. The boy let go and collapsed. The second man dropped to his knees and laid two fingers on the boy's neck. All he felt was the footsteps of the people passing by.

The drug is banned but the border's still blocked.

Last week's decision by the federal government to permanently ban the sale of the controversial drug chloramphenicol for use on livestock won't make it any easier for Manitoba farmers to get their hogs to slaughter houses south of the border, according to the general manager of the Manitoba hog producers marketing board.

In announcing the permanent ban, Health Minister Jake Epp said both health and trade were factors in the government's decision.

Five states in the U.S. Midwest blocked imports of Canadian hogs on May 14 - supposedly because of the potential health hazards that might arise from residues of the drug in the meat.

"That was just an excuse to keep our hogs out, said the W.B. Munro of the board. "Regardless of whether there's a ban or the import block is lifted, the packers in the states aren't going to start taking our hogs until the governor says it's okay."

Although Munro believes some packers south of the border are genuinely concerned about the health risks attributed to the use of the antibiotic on livestock, he said most packers are refusing to buy Canadian hogs because they are afraid of adverse publicity they might receive from U.S. producers who believe Canadian hogs are driving down U.S. prices.

Manitoba exported almost 19 per cent of its hogs to the United States last year, when the buoyant American dollar made the superior, barley-fed Canadian product, attractive to packers south of the border.

Even with the U.S. import tariff on Canadian live hogs, it still makes sense for packers in the U.S. Midwest to buy Manitoba hogs, Munro said.

In lieu of the Canadian ban of the antibiotic, Iowa has officially opened its border. North Dakota, South Dakota, Minnesota and Nebraska say they will wait another five months until any hogs that could have been treated with the drug have gone to market here in Canada.

Before the block, almost 4,000 Manitoba hogs a week were loaded on trucks bound for slaughter houses south of the border. Now all of the board's weekly production of 31,000 hogs is being handled by Canadian packers.

The price of beef cattle has plummeted during the past month to its lowest level in seven years, but so far retail prices haven't followed suit.

And a spokesman for Canada's cattle industry says thousands of jobs are being lost in farming, packing plants and transportation companies as the price massacre contributes to a drastic reduction in Canada's cattle herd.

The price of good quality live steers in Toronto crashed about 12 per cent during July - to roughly 70 cents a pound yesterday from 80 cents at the beginning of the month.

Those prices are the lowest since 1978, said Charlie Gracey, executive vice-president of the Canadian Cattlemen's Association. And in real terms, allowing for the inflated 1985 dollar, he said they're the lowest in a quarter of a century.

"It's pretty devastating," Gracey said yesterday.

"It's driving a lot of producers into insolvency. Many are simply giving up. It's a total wreck."

Despite the low live cattle price, retail beef prices haven't dropped during the past month, according to supermarket surveys conducted for Ontario's Ministry of Consumer and Commercial Relations.

Regular prices for half a dozen different beef cuts were the same in a July 24 survey as they had been on June 26, according to the ministry's survey.

Gracey said he hopes retailers will drop their prices to help move the glut of beef on the North American market that's driving prices down.

But Alasdair McKichan, president of the Retail Council of Canada, said in an interview that supermarkets simply don't make money on their meat counters and that there's not much room to reduce prices.

There are already frequent beef specials, and slashing beef prices won't necessarily boost sales significantly in any case, he added.

The retail council has forecast that retail beef prices will drop 2 to 4 per cent during the summer.

Why the far more drastic drop in the price of beef cattle?

Simply put, it's a matter of supply and demand.

"We have saturated the North American meat market," Gracey said.

Michael C. Smith, assistant manager of the cattlemen's association, cited a cluster of factors that have produced the glut.

In the U.S., and to a lesser extent in Canada, there has been an unexpected number of overweight cattle being marketed.

This happened when farmers saw low prices and held their animals off the market, hoping for higher prices. But the higher prices never materialized. The animals gained weight and carried even more beef on their carcasses when finally dumped on the market, sending prices into a tailspin.

Unfortunately for cattle producers, many of those big, beefy cattle still haven't found their way to market.

Two consecutive years of drought in parts of Western Canada have cut supplies of hay and feed grains.

Finding it too expensive to maintain their herds, many farmers have sent unusually large numbers of female animals to slaughter, instead of breeding them.

This has increased short-term supplies, but it also means a long-term reduction in the country's beef cattle herd. It will take several years to replace the female animals, and several more years before they are bred and their offspring reach the market.

Gracey estimated that 12 breeding cows create the equivalent of one job (in farming, transportation and processing) - and Canada has slaughtered 200,000 cows this year.

The final factor is high imports of beef.

Canadian farmers were outraged this year when the federal government agreed to boost the European Community's beef import quota to 23.5 million pounds from 5.9 million pounds.

U.S. cattle import quotas were also increased, and Australia and New Zealand are expected to ship large quantities of beef to Canada during the final six months of the year.

Gracey said he hopes to see lower retail prices for beef to help clear the glut.

In one corner, the reds. For years they have been the champs, the leaders, the favorite in Canada.

In the other, the whites. Cocky and moving up fast, they are favored by a growing number of Canadians each year.

The competition between the reds - the red meat industry - and the whites - the poultry industry - is intense. Similar skirmishes are taking place throughout the food production business as butter tries to make a comeback over margarine, as milk struggles against soft drinks, and as the vegetarians wage a steady campaign to increase their numbers.

Canada's food habits have changed markedly in the last 20 years. Never before have Canadians eaten more poultry, chicken in particular, than at this time. The average Canadian eats about 24 kilograms (carcass weight) of poultry each year - compared to 15 kilos 20 years ago. Beef is by far the front runner on Canadian tables, averaging 38 kilos (carcass weight) per person - up from 34 kilos 20 years ago, but down from a peak of 51 kilos in 1976, according to Agriculture Canada.

But Mary Eadie of the Canadian Meat Council, which represents processors and packers, says red meat consumption has fallen to a "more realistic" level. Luring consumers back to the old favorite is a challenge, she says, so don't think for a moment that reds are about to give up and wave the white flag.

To reverse the trend, the Beef Information Council has launched a persuasive campaign and spends about $3 million each year in promotional and educational material. Its target is mainly health professionals. Beef, the council figures, has been given a raw deal.

People have been told for years that beef is too fatty, too high in cholesterol and contains too many calories for the health and diet-conscious consumer of the '80s. The thrust of the Beef Information Council's latest campaign is new research that shows Canadian beef is considerably - 35 per cent - leaner than today's nutrition tables show.

The study by Professor Steve Jones of the University of Guelph showed that beef is substantially lower in fat and calories than was traditionally believed and that lean beef compares favorably with chicken and fish. Making use of Jones's data, the Beef Information Centre makes this comparison for 90-gram (3-ounce) servings: Calories: Lean eye of round, 133, lean sirloin steak, 196, compared with 171 for the same size serving of roast chicken without skin. Fat content: Lean eye of round, 4 grams, lean sirloin steak, 9 grams, compared with 7 grams in roast chicken.

Cholesterol: Beef, 82 milligrams, compared with 80 milligrams for chicken and 73 for cod.

(But Health and Welfare figures from the Canadian Nutrient File are somewhat different: It says 90 grams of roasted dark chicken meat contain 161 calories, while white meat has 138 calories.)

Economy plays a great role in consumer tastes. Chicken is cheaper. An average broiler sold in Toronto costs $3.59 per kilogram, while a kilogram of sirloin steak costs $10.52, ground beef, $3.05, and round steak, $8.70.

All this gives the chicken people something to crow about. "We don't have to convince people to eat chicken, they are eating it," says Carolyn McDougall of the Ontario Chicken Producers' Marketing Board.

Pork follows beef as the second most popular meat in Canada. We each eat about 28 kilograms a year, but if U.S. trends are any indication, it's possible that poultry may soon overtake pork, as it has to the south, says Alan Boswell, chief of the livestock and meat division of Agriculture Canada. "That's the key thing. It tells you what could happen here."

At the opposite end of the dinner table are the vegetarians. Their numbers are unknown, but it is known that consumption of beans, peas and nuts has increased slowly but steadily to current levels of 4 kilograms per person each year and fresh fruit and vegetable consumption has increased to 265 kilograms per year.

There are, however, other indicators. In the past two years, membership in the Toronto Vegetarian Association has doubled to more than 400.

The association has plans to go national and consolidate the half dozen or so vegetarian societies across Canada. The goal is to form a national lobby group, says president Matthew Bates, a computer technologist at the Ontario Science Centre.

"We want to present alternatives to what is being taught in schools. We don't want to convert but to make sure information is available."

(In Britain, a battle is brewing between the meat industry and the Vegetarian Society after a Gallup poll revealed this year that nearly 3 million people are complete vegetarians or have eliminated red meat from their diets. The fight is moving into the schools, where the meat promoters are determined to influence the eating habits of children. One aspect of the campaign is to urge schools to "adopt" a local butcher. The Vegetarian Society is countering with its own "eat green" campaign.)

Locally, the Toronto Vegetarian Association offers a 12-page guide to restaurants that are completely or partially vegetarian. It urges members to patronize the 10 or so exclusively vegetarian restaurants in Metro. Those that are not completely vegetarian, "easily could be if they removed one or two offending meals (usually containing fish) from their menus," the guide reads.

Increased vegetable consumption may also be tied to greater variety, says John van der Zalm, executive secretary of the Ontario Fruit and Vegetable Growers' Association. In the last 20 years, about 40 new fruits and vegetables have made their way to the Canadian market, so that now 100 are available. They include the exotics (mangoes and kiwifruit) and the unusual (savoy cabbage, bok choy, and fennell). It's especially remarkable that "you can walk into a supermarket from mid-December to April and find the same choice of products as in July, August and September," van der Zalm says.

In Canada, the most popular drink is coffee, followed by milk, soft drinks and beer. Coffee was also the most popular drink in the United States until 10 years ago, when soft drinks sales passed coffee sales - a trend that could follow in Canada.

Canadians drink 98 litres of milk each year - a level that has remained relatively constant the last five years. Recently, the Milk Marketing Board has directed its advertising campaign at young people in the 12-to-29 age group - hoping to lure them back to the milk drinking habit. This group consumes an average of 1.3 glasses of soft drink a day. People in their 20s drink an average of 1.6 glasses of milk a day, while teenagers drink 2.2 glasses.

The board's $6.5 million promotional campaign - a small part of the $76 million spent annually by the beverage industry in Ontario - appears to work. Milk drinking among teenagers has increased 4 per cent and 12 per cent among young adults, says Nicholas Price-Owen, the board's advertising and sales promotion manager.

When butter consumption in Canada plunged to a low of 4.3 kilograms per person per year in 1978, the Dairy Bureau of Canada struck back. It, too, mounted a persuasive campaign to lure Canadians away from margarine and back to butter.

The bureau acknowledged that Canadians should reduce their fat intake, but butter fat, its literature reminded consumers, comes from "fresh, clean milk."

Since everyone knows butter contains fat, the issue is no longer health, but taste and quality, says Murray Dodd, vice-president of marketing services for the dairy bureau.

Butter consumption has started to rise again to about 4.8 kilograms per person per year.

Two on Layton: Two accounts of Irving Layton's life are being published this fall. It is not certain which book will be more popular. Indeed, they promise to be such different books that some readers will buy both.

One is a critical biography, Irving Layton: A Portrait (Stoddart), by Elspeth Cameron who previously wrote Hugh MacLennan: A Writer's Life. She spent four years, with Layton's co-operation, going through his papers and interviewing friends, family, ex-wives, students and associates. The other book is volume one of Layton's own memoirs, Waiting For The Messiah: Recollections Of My Early Days (McClelland & Stewart).

"People who think Canadian literature is dull should have been at my side for the last four years," says Cameron. Of Layton, she adds, "His public persona is outrageous - deliberately calculated and later promoted by Jack McClelland. But the real person behind the persona is even more outrageous. We don't need Dylan Thomas or Ernest Hemingway. We've got our own."

Cameron's biography obviously touches on the women in Layton's life. His first wife, Faye Lynch, had died before Cameron began work, but she interviewed people who knew her. She also interviewed Layton's second wife, Betty Sutherland, before her death, and spent time with Aviva Layton who lived with Layton for many years. Layton's subsequent marriage to Harriet Bernstein and their stormy divorce was widely publicized. Now Layton, who was born in 1912, lives in Montreal with Anna Pottier, a woman in her twenties.

According to Layton's editor at McClelland & Stewart, Ellen Seligman, Layton began work on his memoirs about two years ago, feeling it was time to set down his own views. Jack McClelland had been urging him to write his autobiography for years.

"The book is amazingly good and important," says Seligman. "All the fire, rage, passion and intelligence are there. There is no evidence of whitewashing. It is not a glowing self-portrait but it is an interesting one."

Layton's memoir begins with his earliest memories and ends in 1945. It explores in great depth his first marriage to Faye Lynch which, by several accounts, was macabre. It also recaptures the literary life of Montreal in the '30s and '40s. But above all, it is the story of the making of an artist, particularly Layton's commitment to poetry.

Cameron is not dismayed by Layton's entry, believing there is room for several views. For her, the exhilarating aspect of Layton's life was reflected by the incredibly diverse group of people she met. "I couldn't believe they could all be connected to one person," she says.

*

Preparing For the Movie: The release this December of the film version of Out Of Africa by Isak Dinesen (born Karen Blixen) is creating a new life for works by and about the famous Danish author.

Everyone is advertising film "tie-ins." Even the staid University of Chicago Press is issuing Silence Will Speak by Errol Trzebinski, a biography of Dinesen's lover, Denys Finch Hatton, and illustrating its ads with photos of Robert Redford who portrays the dashing big-game hunter in the movie. Isak Dinesen: Letters From Africa: 1914-1931 is advertised with photos of Meryl Streep as Blixen. And another dozen titles are being swept along on the coat-tails of the Sydney Pollock film.

CBC Radio has not been left out. It has been broadcasting readings of Out Of Africa on "Booktime" and referring to the forthcoming film in its promotion material.

*

Satire on Politics: Donald Gordon, a former Royal Commissioner who is well acquainted with the games, treacheries and frustrations of the Ottawa bureaucracy, has chosen it as the target of his satirical novel, S.P.E.E.D.

In his comedy, an Ottawa mandarin in the Department of Communications attempts to blackmail seven vice-presidents at the telecommunications conglomerate, Phone Canada.

S.P.E.E.D. is published by a new company, McBain Publications in Kitchener. The firm, founded by a former McGill University professor, also issued Gordon's first novel, Fineswine, a satire set in an Ontario meat-packing plant. * Beverley Slopen is a Toronto free-lance writer and literary agent.

By Chris Chenoweth Toronto Star

Fast food doesn't mean fat food

any more.

"Foods that appeal to the body-conscious person - and specifically women - are the new trend in the restaurant business," says David Harris, director of the Canadian Restaurant Association.

"Restaurants are now trying to market and provide specific foods to those who want a better figure. This approach has been driven by health club advertisements, glamorous thin models and leisure time sports."

Fast-food companies in Toronto say they have been changing their menus to try to attract women to their cash registers.

"Women have hit the work force in a big way, and that means restaurant and fast-food chains have begun marketing their menu to the health-conscious woman consumer," says Harris.

"This has had a very positive effect on the food industry. Two working partners are less inclined to want to cook at home."

The restaurant association estimates that total sales of food and beverages in Canada's 50,000 food service businesses will be $17.9 billion in 1985, an increase of 6.4 per cent from 1984.

Harris says the sales increase is mainly because new customers are coming into restaurants, particularly working women who wish to spend their dollars at fast-food spots at lunch or after a hard day at the office.

Light nutrition

These women want different kinds of food than just the burger and fries that men have lived on.

"People today are not looking to consume a tremendous volume of food; they are looking to consume light, nutritious, healthy foods," says Harris.

"Consumers are working out and jogging, and they are very concerned about how they look.

"As a result, nutrition and healthy foods are definitely a vital part of any restaurant business's menu today, and the entrepreneurs are marketing to meet this new food appeal."

The growth of Cultures Fresh Food restaurants is a reflection of this trend, says company president Hal Gould.

Cultures has gone from one store in

Toronto eight years ago to a chain of 23 Canadian outlets, with nine stores in Toronto alone employing 200 people and earning an estimated $6 million in annual sales.

"We present an image consistent with the good, healthy type food we offer," says Gould, 35.

"Our restaurants use a lot of rough pine, bright, cheery plants and soft colors, especially the dark green colors in our logo, to suggest good foods like salads to our health-conscious clientele."

Gould agrees the eating habits of Toronto's fast food consumers are changing.

"When we started eight years ago, salad was considered very much a side dish, not a meal in itself.

"But the restaurant business has evolved, and we're convinced the consumer market has moved in our direction."

Gould says Cultures' total Canadian sales should grow to $15 million within a year as the chain expands to 30 outlets, with four to five new stores expected to open in Metro alone.

"Our menu specializes in soups, salads, sandwiches, soft frozen yogurt and baked goods prepared fresh each day on the premises," adds Gould, who estimates an average Cultures meal would cost $5.00.

Seventy-five per cent of Cultures' customers are women.

"But more men are coming into our restaurants because they, too, are becoming concerned about health and what they eat," says Gould.

Lick's Ice Cream and Burger Shops is a three-store gourmet hamburger chain with young people as its target market.

At the Lick's store at Yonge and Eglinton, the staff sing out a customer's order - "Cheeseburger and mushrooms, with fries!" - with gusto.

Lick's owner Denise Meehan, 34, says the outlets try to offer a burger that is "as home-cooked and nurturing as possible, served by an enthusiastic, young, friendly staff."

There's a second Lick's store in the Beaches, while a third at Kingston Rd. in Scarborough is a franchised operation. A

fourth Lick's store should open in Metro before the end of the year in an undetermined place.

Meehan says Lick's stores should gross in excess of $2 million in sales this year.

Lick's standard meal is a six-ounce home burger for $2.35, topped with whatever condiments the consumer wants.

"In our menu, everything is fresh, with no preservatives," says Meehan, who has been in the business of feeding hungry Metro patrons for the past eight years.

"We offer fresh salads, fresh fruit on our ice cream, and a balanced type meal because the public wants a chance to eat something quickly without suffering in nutrition."

The Canadian Restaurant Association estimates there are 5,000 restaurants in Toronto, and fast-food outlets account for 25 per cent of total sales.

Even big chains such as Wendy's and Mr. Submarine have to take the trend toward the new, health-conscious consumer into account when planning a menu and offering new products.

Wendy's Restaurants of Canada operates 12 outlets in Toronto and 76 in Canada. Its primary target is adults from ages 18 to 34, says Jay Peters, marketing vice-president.

"The decision was made by Wendy's years ago that we want to go after adults, instead of being like competitors who want to go after kids who would bring the adults into the restaurant."

Although Wendy's is sticking to that market plan, there are subtle changes going on in its menu, too.

"We came out with a light menu re

cently," says Peters. "We expanded the salad bar, added whole wheat buns, offered a taco salad, plain baked potatoes and diet soft drinks.

"We want to also appeal to the woman consumer and the growing number of people who are now health conscious, because it was felt that was the untapped market segment.

"Before we first introduced the salad bar in 1979, 30 per cent of our business was from a female clientele, and 70 per cent male. Now the ratio is 58 per cent male and 42 per cent female."

Other menu changes include the boneless breast of chicken sandwich at $2.69, hot stuffed baked potatoes ($1.39 to $2.29), and a breakfast menu being offered in one downtown Metro restaurant as a marketing experiment.

New producst

"We're expanding the breakfast to more stores in the next 12 months because it has been extremely well received," says Peters.

Mr. Submarine Ltd. operates 233 stores in Canada, with 71 in Metro alone and four more outlets due to open before year-end.

Although 75 per cent of Mr. Submarine's customers are men, new products are being offered to capture the new woman consumer, says Michael Staseff, operations manager.

"In the past two years, our new products have included the club sub ($3.10) and the rib sub ($3.20)," says Staseff.

"And we have also introduced a small, assorted sub ($1.85) using an 8-inch bun instead of the traditional 12-inch sandwich size. Now we are testing sea food subs in kitchens, which should be introduced at the store level very shortly.

"Traditionally, we have catered to the male population, and our clientele was the hockey fan or the late night male," adds Staseff.

"The reason we've brought in the smaller sub, and we're thinking of introducing the seafood line, is to attract women into our store. A female can't usually pack back the bigger sized sub, See WOMEN/page B5 Continued from page B1

and seafood is popular with the health-conscious woman consumer."

The sub chain is also changing store designs from the traditional red and white coloring to brown interior with wood grain booths to try to give the stores a warmer atmosphere.

Swiss Chalet, a division of Cara Operations Ltd. which also operates the Harvey's burger chain, has been serving chicken in Metro since 1954.

There are now 71 restaurants across Canada, and Swiss Chalet's 20 stores in Metro position themselves as full-service restaurants that provide table and bar service.

"The two mainstays of our menu selection are chicken and ribs," says Michael Maguire, Cara's executive vice-president.

"Our business is growing because consumers are displaying a tendency away from red meat, and have been for some time," says Maguire.

"And we feel nothing other than chicken is taking the place of burgers in people's diets, because Canadians are not big fish eaters in terms of the fast-food business."

Maguire says he has noticed changes in the type of customer coming to Swiss Chalet, which has caused the emergence of new eating trends.

"More and more families with both parents earning an income are coming here, since neither parent wishes to stay home and cook as much any more.

"The wife feels just as tired as the husband is after a long working day. Hence we're getting more women coming into our outlets, because chicken is a very popular item with women.

"Chicken is tremendous diet food. You don't get big hips from chicken, and women particularly ask for white chicken, which is a high-protien, low-calorie product," adds Maguire.

Swiss Chalet says its annual sales exceed $60 million from its Toronto stores alone, and there are expansion plans to build another 10 Swiss Chalets this year, with one or two more opening in Metro.

One of summer's most memorable dishes begins in the garden with garlic, fresh herbs, zucchini, onions and tomatoes. The appealing mixture can be the mainstay of a summer meal and it also goes well with new potatoes and meat, poultry or fish from the grill. Zucchini Provencal is even delicious served cold as salad. The recipe is from Nancy Enright's Canadian Herb Cookbook (Lorimer, $12.95).

Zucchini Provencal 1 lb (500g) small zucchini, unpeeled Salt 2 to 3 tbsp olive oil 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped 1 large clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped 3 medium ripe tomatoes, peeled and quartered or tinned plum tomatoes 1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley 1 tsp each chopped fresh thyme and oregano

1/4 tsp finely chopped fresh rosemary 2 tbsp dry white wine Salt and freshly ground pepper

Scrub zucchini well under cold running water. Cut off ends and slice into 1/4-inch rounds. Sprinkle with salt, toss to coat and let stand in a colander 30 minutes. Rinse well in cold water, then place on a cloth towel and squeeze out bitter juices. Dry well.

Heat half the oil in a large heavy frying pan and lightly cook zucchini. Remove zucchini from pan and set aside. Discard used oil. Add remaining oil and heat. Add onions and gently cook, covered, over low heat (sweat the onions just to soften). Remove lid, turn heat to medium and add garlic. Cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add tomatoes, herbs, wine and zucchini. Cook 5 to 10 minutes stirring often. Season with salt and pepper. Zucchini should have some crunch to it. To vary, add sliced, seeded green or red pepper with the onions to soften and proceed as above. Serve hot or use as a salad and serve cold. Makes 4 servings.

At the Paramount Tavern that summer, pulling draft, my shift was six to one with no breaks. Mornings, I slept late. When I came into the Crest Grill around 11, semi-conscious, and ordered the breakfast special, Beans and Double-Double were already settled in one of the window booths. Beans was figuring odds on the harness races. It didn't take him long.

"6 to 5 or nothing doing."

His odds were always 6 to 5. It wasn't much of a system, but according to Beans it paid off, most of the time. Leaning back in his seat, Beans winked at Steve, the counterman. When Steve brought fresh coffee to the table, Beans rubbed his fingers on the leatherette upholstery of the booth. It made a nasty, squeaking sound. The counterman twitched.

"Angel farts," said Beans, with an irritating smile.

Beans drank his coffee black, but Double-Double liked two creams and two sugars. He stirred slowly, careful not to spill into the saucer, then drained the cup in three or four gulps. Beans twisted his lips in the familiar pattern of a sneer.

"That's it, little girl, drink it all up, before it gets cold."

He turned away from Double-Double and addressed the other regulars.

"Keeps his strength up."

The men along the counter were unimpressed. Few even bothered to look up from their food or newspapers. Scarred by the hacksaw wit of Beans on previous occasions, I changed position on my stool and got interested in the menu, unwilling to listen to another of Beans's pointless recitations. Goaded by lack of reaction, Beans forced a laugh and picked on one of the taxi drivers in the next booth.

"Lennie, you seen Max? I seen him, last night, 'round 1.30. Looked Godawful. Said he got beat up by some punk he was takin' down to the Sheraton Hotel. Lost 285 bucks. Whatta mark! Gimme a piece a lead pipe and it woulda bin a different story. Goddamn right! Eh, Lennie, eh?"

He blared on 'til Lennie reluctantly nodded agreement. Still gloating, Beans finished his coffee and hoisted his large, awkward bulk, poking Double-Double in the arm. Double-Double was staring vacantly at the half-dead rubber tree in the window of the diner.

"C'mon, dummy, we're goin' down the pool hall."

Double-Double yawned, paid the cashier and trailed after Beans.

* * *

For six years I'd lived around Kensington Market. Beans and Double-Double were always there, subsisting on pensions, probably. In the spring, I'd rented a cheap flat over a store on Spadina Avenue. Double-Double's room was on the floor above mine. Beans lived somewhere on the same block. They passed their time together. I assumed a sympathy between them.

Around 10 they'd appear at the Crest. Beans would chew the ears off anyone available, and Double-Double daydreamed. Beans loved the cabbies who ate at the Crest. He fed on their gossip, and never seemed aware that most had little time for him. When he could find one gullible enough to give him the attention, Beans practised his invariable political commentary.

"Give me Diefenbaker any day. He knew what he was doin'. That friggin' Trudeau screwed up the whole Goddamn country - the whole Goddamn country!"

Close to noon, Beans and Double-Double would be hanging around the pool room, watching the hustlers, betting on a few games, until they got hungry; then they headed back to the Crest.

In summer they walked to Alexander Park after lunch and sat on the bench closest to the water fountain, always the same bench. Lugging home groceries one time, I passed them while they lounged in the sun, airing their gray undershirts and their white, flabby shoulders. Beans was staring straight at me, so I called out, "Got your regular spot again, huh?" Beans scowled and spat on the dusty grass.

"I like ta hear the sound of the water. It's okay by you? What's the problem?"

Right, you surly old bugger, I thought, last time I'm going to bother being friendly.

Soon as the weather turned cold, the two of them would turn up at the blackjack game that ran all afternoon and evening over top of Klein's wholesale fabrics. They never played a hand, just took side bets and hovered over the table.

Sooner or later Beans would start yapping, and one of the boys would tell him to shut up and go away, so they'd both go round the corner to the Bagel. Beans liked the food at the Bagel: smoked brisket, lung and liver, cabbage borscht.

"Only decent kosher cooking in town."

Whenever the ponies were running, they'd stop in at the Paramount for a fast jug, then ride the Queen streetcar over to the racetrack. By 11 they'd be back in the men's saloon, sucking down at least a dozen drafts before last call. Beans was a sloppy drunk. After beer seven, he'd dissolve into a mess of tears and slobber and incoherent whimpers.

Even when he was tanked, Double-Double seemed inert. As I cleared empty glasses from the table, he'd be leaning forward on his elbows, listening to Beans' endless babble, or looking past him at nothing in particular.

I don't know where they went when the tavern closed, but by the time I'd cleaned up and clocked out, they'd find their way to Double-Double's room. Sometimes they'd climb the stairs behind me, and wait below the narrow landing while I unlocked my door. With a gut full of beer, Beans never bothered to speak to me. Controlled by signals from his bladder, he'd nudge past and continue unsteadily up the stairs. Double-Double followed, with a mild shrug that was almost an apology. I wondered if they ever slept. Lying in bed, I could hear the low mutter of Beans' nocturnal monologue, sound without words, rumbling overhead through all the early hours of morning, and I carried it with me as I drifted off into the vague and shadowed complications of a dream.

To me, Beans and Double-Double were like the Crest: fixtures of the neighborhood. They weren't the only weird old guys. They'd just been there the longest.

* * *

One sweaty Thursday in August, I met Double-Double wandering down Spadina. He was moving his mouth and shaking his head, glancing behind him. His face, normally expressionless, was puckered by the effort of intense but silent conversation.

"Hey, Double-Double. Where's Beans?"

"Not out today."

He kept walking. I didn't see him again until Friday afternoon, when I went to the Bagel for an early supper. Double-Double, alone at the counter, was shovelling barley-vegetable soup into his face. In between spoonfuls, he was still talking, but not to me.

On Saturday, Molly, the fat cashier at the Ace Smoke Shop, ran out as I was passing.

"Did you hear about Beans?"

"No. What happened?"

Her round face was blotched and swollen.

"He passed away."

"When?"

"Couple of days, I think. Someone phoned the cops and they brought an ambulance and took him. They're bringing me the keys Monday. Asked me to get his stuff together, you know, pack it up."

"Who found him?"

"Dunno. They didn't say." She snuffled and wiped her eyes. Beans was a good customer at the Ace: cheap cigars mostly. He was one of Molly's favorites. He called her Dumpling and grabbed a handful whenever she was bending over the magazine stands: a handful of Molly.

"Anyway, I gotta get his stuff. Poor old guy."

I met Double-Double outside our building a week after Beans died. I was surprised. He spoke to me. He said hello before I did. He looked different, but I couldn't pin it down to any single detail.

"Doing okay, Double-Double?"

"Yeah, okay. Hey, you hear Beans kicked off?"

"Yes, Molly told me. I'm really sorry. I guess you must miss him."

"Yeah, good old Beans. Boy, did he stink!"

"What?"

"When they took him away. They put him in a plastic bag. He smelled like a piece of meat you forgot to put in the fridge."

"That's too bad." I couldn't think of anything else to say.

"Yeah, too bad for old Beans. They found stuff, too."

"What kind of stuff?"

"Molly, you know, when she cleaned out his junk, out of the room, there was piles of crap in there, stuff from the store."

"What do you mean?"

"He took it all, from the smoke shop. I know he did. He kept it up there. Piles of junk, tied up. He put string on it. Rubber bands. Boy, did he ever stink!"

Feeling awkward yet fascinated, I told him again that I was sorry, but he only grinned and snorted, as though Beans had pulled off a sick joke.

* * *

I was looking through the magazines when Double-Double stolled into the Ace and picked up some cigarettes and the Racing Form. He took a ballpoint from the rack by the cash register, dropped a five on the counter and left without his change. Molly stared after him, open-mouthed.

"What the hell's got into him, eh?"

At the Crest, Double-Double was suddenly visible. The counterman slapped him on the shoulder and gave him a free coffee. The taxi drivers invited themselves over to his booth. Eagerly they waited while he stirred, drank and scribbled on the form.

"It's a shame what happened to Porkchop," said Lennie at last.

"Who?"

"Porkchop - Pork n' Beans - Beans, your buddy."

They weren't expecting Double-Double's willingness to satisfy their morbid interest. He delivered a repeat of his story, adding a lot that I'd missed.

"So what about the funeral? asked Max.

"What funeral?" Double-Double replied.

"Well, they gotta bury the guy, don't they?"

"Nah, they burned him already."

Prepared to support and console, and then cheated of misery, the cabbies grew uncomfortable. Somewhow Double-Double had discarded the necessity of grief. He didn't need them. With nothing to offer, they squirmed in embarrassment, and gradually drew away from him, until he reached into this pants pocket and tossed the money on the table, very casual, the biggest wad of bills I'd ever seen.

"For my dearest friend," he quoted proudly, "the sum total of my estate."

Oblivious to the jealousy on almost every face, Double-Double demanded loudly, "Well, who's makin' it ta the track?"

I skipped work and went with him. We bet every horse running at 6 to 5, win, place or show. Quite a system, Beans. We walked away with zip.

Dining at King Fook Chinese Restaurant is best reserved for those evenings when you have time to savor each morsel.

The menu offers dozens of Cantonese specialities. There are soups, appetizers, fish, fowl, beef, pork and rice dishes. The food is not so much served as presented. Dishes are adorned with tiny animal sculptures carved out of vegetables.

Waiters in tuxedos serve each dish separately. And with each selection you get clean plates hot off the steamer.

I started my cantonese feast with a shrimp roll ($2.50) while my husband had the spring rolls ($1.50). Both had light, flaky pastry that almost crumbled at the touch. My shrimp roll was bursting with a plump jumbo shrimp. The spring rolls were stuffed with crunchy bits of vegetables and meat.

The diced chicken with sauteed cashews ($7.25) was easily our favorite dish. It had tender morsels of chicken mixed with fresh carrots and peas and topped with loads of lightly toasted cashews.

Next came the lemon sesame prawns ($9.25) - lightly breaded and deep-fried prawns topped with a piquant lemon sauce and rolled in sesame seeds.

We should probably have opted for a beef of pork dish here but the fresh asparagus with crabmeat ($6.25) sounded too good to resist. It was. Braised fresh asparagus was topped with flakes of crab in a light sauce.

A word of warning. The menu descriptions of King Fook's specialities sound so tantalizing you'll be tempted to over-order. We had chosen another dish, but our waiter advised us we would have too much food for two.

Desserts were somewhat disappointing. My almond pudding ($2) was a bland mixture topped with canned fruit cocktail. My husband said his toffee banana (also $2) was a bit heavy.

The bill, including two icy bottles of domestic beer and two glasses of a dry house white wine, came to $53.11 including tax and tip. - Kathy English

The Star's daily restaurant review

TABLE FOR TWO King Fook 581-583 Markham St. 532-9111 Cantonese; seats 150, also private dining facilities; full licence, open for lunch Tuesday to Friday 11.30 a.m. to 2.30 p.m., dinner 5.30 p.m. to midnight, open Sundays 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.; no-smoking section, no wheelchair access, parking available, takes all major cards.

A Toronto-based animal rights group has condemned the Metro Toronto and Region Conservation Authority's first "moose workshop" near Bolton, Sept. 14, as a "waste of time and money."

At the day-long workshop, to be held at the Cold Creek and Kortright conservation areas, 100 hunters will take three rifle shots each at a plywood life-size moose silhouette and do "field dressing and meat handling."

"We oppose hunting for the purpose of entertainment," said Dan McDonald, president of the Peoples Animal Welfare Society, an organization of volunteers.

"Hunters who drive hundreds of miles or hire helicopters or aircraft to go into Northern Ontario to hunt moose aren't going there for the meat.

"They call it sport, but we don't see it that way. Using powerful rifles, the hunter isn't taking any risk. It's not a contest."

Don Simkin, director of the wildlife branch of the Ministry of Natural Resources, said animal rights groups haven't protested directly to his department about the annual moose hunt.

"Selective harvest'

By controlling the number of permits to hunt adult moose issued in defined areas across the province each year, the ministry controls the moose population through "selective harvest."

"It's a well-managed activity," said Simkin. "Every year we count the animals from the air and during the hunt our conservation officers examine the animals that are shot to determine their age and condition.

"Other factors, such as predators, weather and habitat conditions also affect moose population."

Simkin endorses moose workshops because they educate hunters on how to identify the age and sex of moose and "efficiently take a moose . . . where to place a bullet to make the fastest and cleanest kill.

"No one feels worse about wounded moose than the hunter who didn't make the clean kill," he said.

Kortright spokesman Lou Romhanyi, who organized the workshop, said animal rights organizations don't understand that "selective harvesting," particularly killing young moose, could increase the size of Ontario's herd.

Moose biology

Besides teaching how to aim for the vital heart and lung areas, the workshop will give hunters a crash course on moose biology. Hunters will learn that few of the many parasites and diseases that affect moose will harm the people who eat them, said Romhanyi.

It's a violation of the Fish and Game Act to allow meat to spoil. Hunters must take what they shoot.

Ontario's moose population is now about 90,000 to 100,000, down from 150,000 in the late 1950s.

Fewer than half of Ontario's 72,000 licensed moose hunters have a special tag permitting them to hunt adult moose. The rest are confined to killing calves that are more difficult targets.

Licences for Canadians cost $25 and for U.S. hunters $200.

Romhanyi wants the moose workshop to be an annual event. He hopes other workshops on hunting deer and bear can also be started.

Beginner cooks are often very surprised to discover that whipping up delicious meals that use just a few pans and fit the budget is not always easy.

That is unless you have a how-to-cope manual with everything from laundry tips to quick recipes, like the one Jennifer Scace's mother Susan put together when she went off to university.

Susan Scace's material is now in a book called Take Me With You . . . Please ($8.95, Eagle's Publications). The recipes are well-indexed for easy use. Here is a sample from the meat section. Quick Curry 1 medium onion, chopped 1 clove garlic, finely chopped (optional) 2 tbsp butter or margarine 1 1/2 tsp curry powder 1 tbsp all-purpose flour 1 1/2 cups milk or broth

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp pepper

1/2 tsp cayenne pepper 1 1/2 lbs boneless cooked pork or lamb, beef, chicken or turkey in 1-inch cubes 2 medium tomatoes, chopped

1/2 cup cashews (optional)

Cook onion and garlic in butter over medium-low heat, until soft, about 10 or 15 minutes. Blend in curry powder to taste, and flour. Slowly stir in milk; add salt, pepper and cayenne. Stir until mixture thickens and is smooth. Add meat, tomatoes and cashews. (You may want to use apples instead of tomatoes when the curry is made with lamb or pork). Cook 10 minutes or until meat is heated through. Serve on rice or noodles with a green salad or a green vegetable. Makes 4 servings.

"As pure as mother's milk," goes the old saying. And we believe it. If there is one thing we should all be able to count on, it's mother's milk. The image of the mother nursing her contented, trusting child has been used by artists all through history as the ultimate expression of innocence and goodness.

But according to an article in Healthsharing, a magazine published in Toronto and devoted to women's health, women could be transmitting toxic chemicals, particularly PCBs, as they lovingly nurse their babies.

The article, written by Jeanne Jabanoski, director of communications for Environment Canada, points out that we have known about toxic chemicals such as DDT, dioxin and PCBs for years - long enough to rack up a sizeable library of information.

PCBs - polychlorinated biphenyls - were the wonder chemical of the late 1920s. They were used in all kinds of plastic, adhesives, paints and electrical products. But in the 1960s, when scientists were investigating DDT and its deadly effects on birds, animals and humans, they stumbled across PCBs. They discovered that PCBs caused tumors, liver damage and impotence in lab animals.

Restricted use

The use of PCBs has been restricted since 1977. They are still used for electrical equipment but they must be transported in steel drums. Recently, PCBs were back in the headlines when there were two serious spills in Canada.

The first stories that PCBs could affect babies came from Japan. The disease was called the Yusho (rice oil) disease, since mothers had eaten contaminated rice while pregnant. The babies were often premature, had low IQs and were apathetic in their activities.

In North America, high levels of PCBs were found around the Great Lakes and the Niagara River because of the big concentration of industry pouring wastes into the environment. But just how dangerous all of this is to human beings has been hard to measure. We just know it can't be good. Exposure is slow and continuous.

A study at Wayne State University in Michigan showed that mothers who ate fish from the Great Lakes could have small babies, born prematurely, with slow motor development and weak reflexes. The state advised women to stop eating fish from the lakes.

As far back as 1975, our own Health and Welfare in Ottawa warned everyone that there was a high concentration of PCBs, particularly in Ontario and B.C. It cautioned that mother's milk was particularly concentrated. Even more alarming is the fact that the concentration of PCBs in mother's milk drops when they are nursing. This means they may be passing on more of the harmful chemicals to their babies. As A. A. Jensen, a PCB specialist from Denmark, bluntly states: "Lactation is simply a period of maternal detoxification."

I phoned Pollution Probe in Toronto and talked to Kai Millyard, a researcher there. "Sure there is PCBs in mother's milk, and Ontario has some of the highest levels in the country," he said.

"Health and Welfare have set what they consider safe levels for food. But what may be safe for adults is not safe for babies. What is particularly disturbing is the fact that babies are so susceptible to genetic damage."

Just how dangerous is nursing a baby? Even scientists don't agree. Every one of us is bombarded by chemicals from all kinds of different sources. What effect a particular chemicals might have is pretty hard to pin down. All we know is that we are playing dangerously with our health - and the longer we let the situation go on, the worse it will be to clean up, and the more costly.

Fifty-five per cent of Canadians said, in a recent poll, that they would be willing to pay out of their own pockets to clean up the environment. The Ontario government has already said it intends to levy stiffer fines for polluters.

Deadly chemicals

"But what can I do about it right now?" asks the young mother. More than 60 per cent of women nurse their young. They've been encouraged to do it. It gives the baby a good start in life. It protects the baby from diseases. Nursing babies and mothers bond better, we are told. Now, they learn, they may be transmitting deadly chemicals as they nurse.

Pollution Probe advises eating less red meat, particularly in the oil and fat glands, where PCBs build up. If you are really worried, you can get your milk tested through your doctor.

If you want to learn more about this and other subjects that effect all of our lives, you should attend a conference called Workplace Reproductive Hazardson the evening of Friday, Sept. 6 and all day Saturday, Sept. 7 at the Ontario Institute for Studies in Education on Bloor St. W. Call 484-8232 for more information.

There is no place today where we can be completely safe. Even in the country, harmful chemicals are showing up. In almost anything that can be analyzed we find traces. It's not just young mothers who should be worrying. It's everyone's responsibility to clean up the mess, and not leave it for future generations of innocents - the very babies we may be contaminating today.

This week's Crime Stoppers concerns two men who posed as police officers and robbed Kellen's Meat Market in the Don Mills Centre on Don Mills Rd. at Lawrence Ave.

On Saturday, July 20, at about 5.30 p.m., two men walked into the store and approached the owner and the manager, who were in the rear preparing cash for the night deposit.

One man produced a badge and stated they were police officers.

The owner, Helmut Kellen, was told police had received information that a robbery was going to take place as the money was being taken to the bank for deposit.

The phony policemen said they'd accompany the owner to the bank, but suggested they take a different route to foil any robbery attempt.

Pulled guns

The owner and manager then accompanied the two men through a rear door and into a corridor toward the back of the mall.

The men suddenly pulled guns and ordered the victims to hand over the deposit bags. They also forced the victims to stay face-down on the floor until they'd had a chance to escape.

After the men fled, Kellen and his manager went back to the store and called police.

A re-enactment of this robbery along with a police appeal for help to arrest the men will be broadcast on CITY-TV newscasts tomorrow as part of Metro's Crime Stoppers program. Appeals will also be made on radio stations CKO, CFRB, CKEY, CFTR and CFNY.

The first man is white, 48 to 50, about 5 feet, 7 inches, 170 pounds with a medium build. He had a round face, blue eyes, and short black hair flecked with gray.

Well tanned

He wore a light-blue two-piece suit, a light shirt with a striped tie and was armed with a short-barrelled revolver.

The other man is white, in his mid 40s, about 6 feet, 2 inches and 180 pounds, with a long thin face. He was well-tanned with dark brown hair, a moustache and brown eyes.

He was wearing a tan two-piece suit, with a shirt and tie and was carrying a long-barrelled handgun.

The two men are believed responsible for a major robbery earlier this month at a bank branch in Tamworth, a village northwest of Kingston.

Ontario Provincial Police said the bank staff was herded into a vault after two men posing as policemen came into the branch before opening. The men told employees they'd learned of a robbery plot and were going to protect them.

However, the men locked the staff members in the vault and then ransacked the branch before fleeing.

Crime Stoppers is offering $1,000 for information leading to the arrest of the two men. Additional amounts of up to $1,000 is also available for tips in any other serious crime.

The Crime Stoppers number is 222-8477 or 222-TIPS. Callers do not have to give their names or testify in court. * Police Sergeant Gary Grant, co-ordinator of Metro's Crime Stoppers, writes this column to help combat crime. A citizen board administers the local program, one of more than 600 Crime Stoppers in North America. Reward money is raised through tax-deductible donations and cheques may be sent to Crime Stoppers, 1300 Yonge St., Toronto, M4T 1X3.

VANCOUVER - VANCOUVER - Jane Ushida's hair is close-cropped, her wrists thin, and her hands are a bit too large. The edge of a stainless steel counter running down the middle of the 6 by 12 metre (20 by 40 foot) room in the Department of Fisheries and Oceans building comes just above her waist. It allows her to lean over it as she works.

At the far end of the counter, a gray-haired man opens can after can of salmon, placing each one on a tray, upside down to drain. Eight trays are lined up and pushed towards Ushida. Another woman sits beside her with a clipboard in hand raised at the ready. She slides a tray in front of Ushida and the work begins.

It looks like an ancient ritual. Ushida pulls away the cans, leaving the salmon intact on the tray. She tosses the cans one by one into a garbage pail and then reaches for the salmon meat.

Recites numbers

With both hands, she picks it up, breaks it open and appears to shove it into her face. Quietly, she takes the meat, discards it into another tray beside the constantly running water tap, and recites numbers to the woman with the clipboard.

Ushida is a "sniffer." She uses her highly trained nose to grade canned salmon, both domestic and foreign. In five seconds, Ushida judges the color, texture, smell and general appearance of the fish. She looks for rancidity, off-odors and discoloration. Her nose has been trained for years. And when she discards the cans, she has already noted the condition of each, determining whether the seams are broken or damaged.

If Ushida's nose, hands and eyes find fault, thousands of cans in some warehouse on the Fraser River will not leave the Vancouver area. No canner can even put a label on a can without her approval - and the approval of other ministry managers.

In another part of the building, scientists are spot checking for salmonella, fecal coliform, staphilococcae, moisture, fat and salt content. As a routine, the scientists test for heavy metals, but most of these chemical and biological examinations are done on imported canned food, simply because the rigid handling, packing and canning regulations all but eliminate problems in Canadian fish products. In short, everyone involved says, Canadian fish are the safest in the world. The same people will tell you candidly that they can't say the same for American fish products. It's a matter of considerable pride with them.

Man died

The inspection process starts on board with the domestic fleet. Ministry officials spot check the vessels to make sure the fish are handled properly. The canning factories, the fresh and frozen processors and the smoke houses are all inspected constantly. And the processors themselves have rigid quality control guidelines and inspections. The cost of all this is high but the consequences of damaged goods are enough to make any fisherman or processor cringe. Three years ago, a man in Holland died after eating canned salmon. Never mind that the can came from the U.S., the salmon industry worldwide took such a nose dive that several B.C. canners either went out of business shortly after, or went into a slump from which they never recovered. - David Kingsmill

Barbecuing is not only simple, but it is also a healthy way to prepare food.

The main dish can vary from a handful of frankfurters browned in the backyard to a pig cooked over a pit. But all forms have one thing in common: There are no fancy frills. In fact, the only feature that puts an accent on seasoning is the sauce used for basting the meat.

Barbecuing is actually an outdoor method of broiling, a favorite form of cookery for those trying to watch their calories.

For the light-style cookout popular in most homes, one usually features lean meat, poultry or fish, cooked after all visible fat has been trimmed off.

The main dish is dipped into a tasty marinade that goes well with beef, pork, lamb, chicken or fish.

It is a good idea to steep small cuts of chicken and fish, or hamburger, in the marinade for about an hour. But if you are preparing large parts of chicken, beef, lamb or pork, keep them marinating in the refrigerator for 12 hours or more.

Be sure to cover the food while it is marinating, preferably in glass, enamel or stainless steel containers. Aluminum can cause discoloration.

Vegetables are also tasty cooked on the grill. Potatoes, white or sweet, can be placed directly on the coals. Zucchini and tomatoes should be cut in half and placed on the grill. Corn, which takes longer to cook, should be wrapped in foil. Brush all these foods with marinade while they are cooking to keep them from becoming dry. Here's a sauce that's good with chicken. 1 cup red wine 2 tbsp olive oil 1 garlic clove, crushed

1/2 tsp thyme

1/2 tsp salt

1/4 tsp black pepper 4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, in small chunks 4 red or green peppers, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces 4 small onions, quartered

16 cherry tomatoes

In glass, stainless steel or enamel bowl combine wine, olive oil, garlic, thyme, salt and pepper. Add chicken chunks. Cover and refrigerate 1 hour, turning chicken pieces occasionally. Preheat grill or set broiler to 550 degrees F. Place alternating pieces of chicken, peppers, onion and cherry tomatoes on to 8 flame-proof skewers. Set aside remaining marinade. Grill or broil brochettes 4 inches from heat source, turning once every 6 to 8 minutes until chicken is cooked through. Brush frequently with marinade as brochettes are cooking. Serves 8.

OTTAWA - OTTAWA (CP) - When it comes to the food of Thailand, expect this: speechless, gasping, wide-eyed, dive-for-the beer hot.

Imagine 15 hot red chilies and a half-cup of curry in one dish for four, and a half-cup of minced garlic in another.

No, says Mantana Xuto, wife of Thai Ambassador Manaspas Zuto, it's not a mistake in the Thai cookbook.

"It might be very hot for you, but for us it isn't hot at all," she says.

Yet Thai cuisine also includes some of the most subtle soups of lemony shrimp and chicken with coconut and cooling desserts of fresh fruit mixed with ice slivers, followed with more fruit carved into intricate designs.

For every scorching dish, a gentle counterpoint is served.

The Southeast Asian country has curries reminiscent of India, small kebab-like barbecues called satays and various cooking techniques from the Chinese, who first settled the country 600 years ago when they were driven south in Mongol raids.

Yet the country, formerly known as Siam, has developed a cuisine quite unlike any of its neighbors.

Like China and southern India, it serves steamed rice with its curries and serves all the dishes at once. But its curries are only loosely related to the Indian mixture of spices.

Many purely native Thai curries, also known as kaeng, rely solely on herbs and chilies prepared in a paste rather than dried spices. They may include garlic and coriander with such other ingredients as lemongrass, cinnamon, sesame and mint added.

The further a Thai cook gets from the Indian curry formula, the hotter the recipe becomes. Also unlike the Indian chefs, most Thai cooks boil the meat or fish first in coconut milk and then add it to the curry to give a final dish a smooth creamy base that blends the flavors and mutes the harshness of the peppers.

Coconuts and the milk made from the flesh is as fundamental to Thai cuisine as cow's milk is to North American food. The flesh is scraped out with a grater and steeped in hot water, then squeezed out to produce a thick rich coconut cream. More hot water is added and subsequent pressings are called coconut milk.

Throughout Thailand, produce such as the coconuts and at least 25 varieties of chilies are sold in the floating markets in the cities' canals. Customers paddle by the grocer's boats, making their purchases for the day.

Tucked away at the foot of Kensington market, everything in The Boat is done to remind the visitor of the sea.

While the menu is varied with plenty of seafood and meat dishes to choose from, my guest and I found most of the meal bland and unexciting.

My friend tried the shell-less half dozen escargots bourguignonne ($4.15), and their tender, full flavor was the one pleasant surprise of the evening.

My selection of the casserole of shrimps sauteed in garlic butter ($5.25) was a disappointment, because the eight shrimp tasted hard and rubbery, although their spicy seasoning was good.

The Portuguese Gazpacho ($2) was packed full of healthy vegetables, but spoiled by a spice in the broth that tasted like black olives and masked the cold soup's rich, full flavor.

The house salad ($1.50) was also bland with a dressing that seemed like a bottled version of creamy oil and vinegar.

For an entree, my guest experimented with the Grouper Marinheira ($9.35), which she found tender, but still gave the fish a mediocre rating for flavor.

Normally I would never order the surf and turf (lobster tail and fillet of beef - $16.50) because it is such a standard plate.

Here too the dish was unexciting. The lobster tail was tough, and the beef was undercooked.

For dessert, I tried the house specialty of custard flan ($2.25), and it was light and excellent.

Our waiter was also outstanding, as he looked after our every need with charm and humor. Before the tip, the bill came to $58.50, which included sales tax, coffee and soft drinks, and a pleasant half-litre of Portuguese Duque house white wine ($7.50). - Chris Chenoweth

The Star's daily restaurant review

TABLE FOR TWO The Boat 158 Augusta Ave. 593-9218 Portuguese cuisine; seats 150 in brightly lit atmosphere; entrees from $7.75 to $16.95; full licence; open for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Saturday between noon and 1 a.m.; open Sunday from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m.; no access for the handicapped; no no-smoking area; takes major credit cards.

Hey, we know life is full of little surprises.

But we never realized there were so many big ones out there - until we read your response to our question: "What's the best (or worst) surprise you ever had?" Whew! Talk about shocks! A sampling: * It happened 35 years ago, but $50 winner Connie Costanzo of Niagara-on-the-Lake says her cheeks still burn when she recalls the night she babysat her professor's kids in Kingston.

Connie, a student at Queen's University, figured she was doing a great job keeping the children (aged 5, 4 and 1) amused that mid-December evening.

Fetched toys

It was a cinch, really. Connie just sat there, while the kids and a neighbor friend played gleefully on the living room floor with dolls, a little smoking engine, games and other goodies they'd fetched from an upstairs cupboard.

But when the mother got home, her reaction to this happy scene was a surprise.

"Where," she shrieked, "did they find their Christmas toys!"

"The kids got spanked," recalls Connie, "and I was never asked back."

Ouch! Then there was the time Evelyn Woods of Mississauga ordered a special "Bald is Beautiful" T-shirt as a gag gift for her husband's 60th birthday.

The whole family and guests were assembled for the presentation when Evelyn unwrapped and presented to dad a shirt boldly emblazoned: BALLED IS BEAUTIFUL.

"We certainly were surprised," writes Evelyn. And, after the shock wore off, "everybody had a good laugh."

Distress call

June Haskill of Gair Drive certainly wasn't laughing that day in the 1930s when her father was out back chopping wood for the furnace.

You see, 5-year-old June had more important things in mind - like getting dad to thread a needle for her.

"I called and called, but he said he was too busy. So finally I yelled: "Dad, come quick! The house is on fire!'

"I was so pleased with the immediate result: The axe went flying and dad came charging. I still remember standing in the doorway, holding up my thread and needle and asking, "Daddy, will you thread my needle?' "Much to my surprise, he didn't. Instead, he took me over his knee and gave me a few whacks, the first and only time that sweet and gentle man ever spanked me." * Not all surprises are bad, of course.

Lily Zaragoza of East York found a forgotten year-old lottery ticket tucked into the plastic cover of her prayer book. Took it to the bank and - Bingo! - a $10,000 winner.

Mystery trip

Theresa LoPatriello of Downsview agreed to go on an overnight mystery excursion with her daughter on Mother's Day. Imagine her surprise when they took a plane to Chicago - for a joyous reunion with family from all over North America whom she hadn't seen for years.

And $50 winner Gabrielle Rennie of Chiltren Hill Rd. had a romantic surprise. "When I arrived at my hotel in Amsterdam for a holiday, I discovered my suitcase was unlocked. And when I opened it, it contained a man's clothing!

"I had picked up the wrong bag at the airport. The same make, color and model as mine, with no name tag."

"When I phoned the airport, I learned my suitcase was there, and that the man whose suitcase I had was staying at the same hotel as me. Minutes later, there was a knock at the door and there stood the owner. A smiling young man. Dashing and friendly. "We saw Amsterdam together and six months later we were married. That was 20 years ago, and we still have the suitcases." * Shocks? We got 'em.

Like the time Kim McRoberts of Aurora met an old school friend she hadn't seen for years, pointed to her protruding tummy and remarked: "I didn't know you were pregnant!"

"I'm not," was the reply.

Double shock

Or the time newlywed Carol McGloughlin of Thornhill had a visit from her mother.

"During the night my husband was awakened by noises in the basement. Forgetting mother was in the guest room, he grabbed his baseball bat and headed downstairs. Imagine his surprise when mom came out the bathroom door.

"Imagine her surprise when she found him towering over her in the dark with a raised basball bat."

Or this $50 winner from John Ferguson of Markham: "I was exchange teaching in Australia. On my birthday, I entered the staff room at recess and the staff began to sing Happy Birthday and wheeled out a birthday cake.

"I made a thank you speech and asked how they'd found out, as I'd only been there a month.

"Turned out the celebration was for the vice-principal, whose birthday was the same as mine!"

Good soup

As usual, our biggest surpise is how fast we run out of space for your terrific letters. So we'll have to end with this delicious $50 winner from Margaret Anderson of Etobicoke:

When Margaret and the family were up at their Pefferlaw cottage two summers ago, she put a big pot of her homemade soup on the stove one morning and spent the day at the beach.

Well, everybody was hungry that night, and they really tucked into that soup. Margaret in particular was gobbling up the little bits of meat, even sucking the bones, while "my sister-in-law and husband were politely dropping them on their plate."

Then Margaret remembered. This was vegetable soup. What she'd been eating was a bat that had landed in the pot while she was out. Bat soup! Yeccch!

How does bat taste, Margaret?

"Like cottage roll - which I will never cook again!"

EDA arrived at the library that afternoon later than usual. Her normal routine had been delayed by the late arrival of Mrs. Benedict, who came every Thursday to do Eda's mother's hair and gossip with her while Eda had a few hours to herself. On this particular day, however, Mrs. Benedict was late, so by the time Eda reached the library her chair had been taken by an old man, someone Eda had never seen before.

The chair didn't really belong to Eda, but several years of Thursday afternoons had found her sitting in it and she had come to think of it as her own. It was a wingback made of red leather, not a cheap red but a deep luxurious red rather the color of wine and it was studded with brass nails. It was the kind of chair to be found in the private libraries of wealthy men and, because it was large and comfortable and angled in the corner where Eda could watch the flow of library traffic, it had been her habit to sit there.

Over the years the town came to realize that Eda preferred that chair over any other and, without giving it a moment's thought, anyone using it when Eda arrived gave up the chair to her. No one begrudged this concession; it seemed the natural thing to do.

The town was small and its residents knew one another by sight if not by name and reputation. There wasn't a single person who didn't feel sorry for Eda and wish her the happiness that she had never had and probably would never have as long as her mother lived. Eda had been born in that town, had never been away from it. Any child could have told you her story, how her mother ruled home and marriage like a malevolent dictator and how close Eda had been to her father. Everyone knew the tragedy Eda had suffered as a young girl.

Eda's mother ran the household on a strict, precise schedule. Lunch was served at 12.00 exactly. There was no excuse for being late. When Eda's father had not returned from the garage by 12.05, Eda's mother had sent her to fetch him. Eda found him but he wasn't coming for lunch at 12.00 or any other time. He had hanged himself from the rafters with a black and yellow tie.

The town wasn't surprised. They all agreed that he had done it out of self-defence and if they had been married to Eda's mother, they would have done the same thing.

So, with this in mind, everyone set about, though not perhaps consciously, to make life easier for Eda in public than it could ever be at home.

The grocer always set aside the specials for her, the butcher saved the choicest cuts of meat, the milkman made a point of bringing fresh brown eggs and butter. Eda's mother had a way of taking it out on Eda if things were not up to her standards and everybody knew it. Eda was a solitary person and couldn't have been aware of that extra attention she was given by the tradespeople. But if she had known, she would have been grateful. Eda's mother had spent the last 20 years in bed, with what she described, to anyone who would listen, as a heart condition, though she certainly looked robust enough. Surrounded by frilly pillows and wearing lacy bedjackets, she directed every facet of her own life and Eda's from a comfortable vantage point.

LIKENED to bees, she was the queen, and Eda the worker and, while Eda developed into a thin, nervous, highly strung introvert, Eda's mother grew fat and lazy and more shrill and demanding. Any ambitions that Eda might have had, any hope of a life of her own, had been intentionally and systematically discouraged and eventually destroyed. Eda's mother needed her. Eda's only outlet was the library and the Thursday afternoons she could spend there. She loved the smell of the books, the quiet voices, the atmosphere. She particularly loved the red leather chair. Curled up in it like a child, she had come to know Elizabeth I, Catherine the Great and Queen Victoria. She had followed the Lewis and Clark expedition, accompanied Peary to the North Pole and dug in the Oldvai Gorge with Louis Leakey. She had watched Michelangelo paint the Sistine Chapel and Rodin sculpt The Thinker. She had been everywhere and done everything. The library was her passport and transportation to other worlds and other times. It was her escape, her refuge, her sanctu-t+0

ary. She waited for a new shipment of books as a jeweller awaits a shipment of gems.

So when Eda saw the old man in her chair, making no attempt to vacate it, she was bewildered. This situation had never occurred before. She felt uncertain. She wanted him to move, but she feared a confrontation. She stood directly in front of him for several moments, staring down at him, hoping this would prompt him. He glanced up at her, smiled briefly and continued to read his newspaper. What should she do? She considered complaining to the librarian but dismissed this idea. She would never have the courage to actually complain.

She decided to look for a book. She moved slowly up and down the aisles trying to take her time, certain that at any moment he would be gone. But as she rounded the end of each row of shelves, she could see that he was still there. She would try to make the best of it, she had always made the best of it, and sit somewhere else. It seemed so unfair, though, that the few hours she had should be spoiled by someone she didn't even know.

She found a book and took a place on the bench. It was most uncomfortable but it was across the room where she had a clear view of the red leather chair and the old man who sat in it. As soon as he got up she would go there at once. She checked her watch. An hour had passed already. The bench was near the door and people kept getting between her and the old man so that she had to crane her neck to see if he was still there. And it was drafty. Eda had always hated the cold and drafts could be dangerous. Already she could feel a headache coming on.

She flipped through the pages of the book, skipping the text, glancing only at the pictures. It was hard to concentrate. She had been looking forward to reading this book. It was about country houses in England, but it was impossible to do it justice. It was the kind of book that should be read in a leisurely way, but Eda didn't feel in a leisurely mood. She felt tense and there was a hard knot in her stomach. Her headache had gotten worse, too. It had started at the base of her neck and had crept slowly and excruciatingly up the back of her head and was now behind her eyes.

She remembered a headache like this when her father had died. The doctor had given her medicine and she had slept for two days. Shock, he said.

The old man was still there. Eda decided to concentrate very hard and will him out of the chair. She had read about things like that and thought it might be possible. Her headache was unbearable, but she took a deep breath and focused her whole attention on him.

It was then that she noticed his clothes. How strange that he should be wearing a black and yellow tie. It was very like the one her own father had worn that day. Her father. If only he hadn't done that, left her alone. She was sure he had loved her, but if he had, why had he left her? She tried to reason it out, but could find no answer. Eda had always thought of him fondly, but now she was beginning to see him in a different light. It gradually came to her that everything had been his fault. He wasn't perfect at all. He was responsible for all of it. He ought not to have let happen that which had happened. He should have stood up to her mother, not left Eda in this position. He must have known how it would be for her. She continued staring at the old man, thinking now how much like her own fa-t+0

ther he was. He even sat like her father. She remembered how he had looked when he read his newspaper. And that black and yellow tie. Why, it could be her own father sitting there. Her father, who didn't care enough to protect her, stand up for her.

And she was just like him. Not once had she ever said no to her mother. Not once had she ever done what she herself wanted to do. That tie. She couldn't take her eyes off it. She could see her father hanging there, his face black, his body swaying ever so slightly, the black and yellow tie dug into the flesh of his neck. It would happen to her someday. She would walk calmly away from her mother's voice and go to the garage and hang herself. Sometimes, not often but sometimes, she had thought of doing just that. She pictured herself hanging from the rafters in the garage and shuddered.

HER whole body suddenly straightened, her muscles strained. She would never do that. She would never let that happen. She would take her life into her own hands, right now, beginning with that old man in her chair. She would get him out of that chair and then she would sit in it herself. She stood up with great purpose and took long strides toward him.

She had done it. The chair was empty and she settled into it as she had always done. She closed her eyes and allowed herself to rest a moment. She could feel her body sinking comfortably down, her muscles relaxing. Strangely, her headache had disappeared and the knot in her stomach was gone. She opened her book and began to read. Faintly, from a great distance, she could hear someone scream. She blocked it from her mind and continued to read for she had lost enough time and was already several chapters behind.

On the floor at her feet lay the body of the old man, his black and yellow tie knotted tightly against his throat.

* A queen size mattress and box spring that I bought in 1977 for a special wholesale price was very comfortable until 1984 when the mattress became lumpy.

As the set was guaranteed for 15 years, I called the president of Bedford Bedding and Upholstery Ltd., the manufacturer, who offered to repair the mattress at a discount or sell me a new one at a dealer wholesale price.

I decided on a new one and bought, on May 15, 1984, a supposedly top of the line mattress that had been used for display in a furniture show. It also came with a 15-year warranty and cost $181.94 which is $150 plus federal and provincial sales taxes.

The mattress must have been damaged in the show because it was never comfortable. Coils could be felt through the padding.

Bedford asked us to take the mattress to its plant for inspection and repair which I did three times in the next 11 months with the mattress tied to the roof of my car. I had to pay to have it lifted on and off because of health problems.

By this time, the mattress was so uncomfortable that my wife and I couldn't sleep on it. Instead we slept on a pullout bed-sofa, the living room sofa or the floor.

A spokesman for the company said he would try to get a new replacement mattress for me and have it delivered, but no mattress came.

When my wife called on June 10, she was promised a refund cheque for the full purchase price because the company refused to pick up the old mattress and I refused to take it back on the car.

It is now mid-July and despite numerous phone calls I have not received the cheque.

I am tired of the runaround. I hope you can help. Don Eisen, Thornhill

A spokesman for Bedford Bedding and Upholstery Ltd. told Star Probe in mid-August that the company had forwarded a cheque for $150 to our reader "in order to settle this matter." Free portrait offered in place of missing photo * I took an old photograph showing my grandparents and their four children - one of whom was my mother - to F-Stop Camera Shops Ltd. in Orangeville to have a negative and, in turn, a print made.

Somehow, the original photograph has been lost either by the store, a courier service or Colortron Photo Services in Hamilton which was to do the processing.

No one takes the blame for losing it. It cannot be replaced because it is one of a kind.

I am in the process of preparing a family album for our family reunion and want to include this photograph which was taken between 1900 and 1905. Can you please help? Mrs. Lyla Brocklebank Orangeville

There appears to be a difference of opinion between the store and the processing laboratory as to which one misplaced the photograph.

A representative in the customer service department of Colortron Photo Services told Star Probe early in July that the envelope which should have contained the photograph was empty when it was received May 13.

She said a call was made immediately to the store to enquire about what should have been in the envelope.

"We sincerely feel the original was not received," she said. "At the same time, F-Stop are reasonably sure that they did forward it."

Meanwhile, the search will continue and if the photograph is found, "we would be pleased to accept it for copying at no charge," she said.

Late in July, the lab manager for F-Stop Camera Shops Ltd. told us that the picture was carefully enclosed between two pieces of cardboard as is always done for work larger than its standard envelope.

"The outlab envelope was then attached to the work in the presence of Mrs. Brocklebank," he said.

Then it was recorded in the store's outlab file and kept with other orders in a courier bag to be shipped to Colortron Photo Services.

This, he said, was explained to the lab when it called to say the envelope was empty.

"Colortron then assured us that they would search through all their orders and help us in any way to locate the original order," he said.

The search continues. Meanwhile, our reader has accepted F-Stop's offer for a free family portrait sitting. And if the lost picture turns up, it will be processed at no charge. Office move blamed for misplaced records * I took the Young Drivers of Canada course last October, passing my driver's examination in November.

Despite three phone calls, I have yet to receive my certificate which insures me a reduction in my car insurance premium.

I would greatly appreciate your help. Alan R. Hewitt, Drayton Ave.

The assistant general manager of Young Drivers of Canada at its Don Mills Rd. office told us that our reader's records "apparently were misplaced in our office possibly while we were preparing to move to a new location, which we did during this past winter."

After Star Probe brought the matter to his attention, he was able to locate the records necessary to have Hewitt certified in order to receive his insurance premium reduction.

"While we could arrange to have certification done on a student's word that he or she has completed all the necessary phases of the Young Drivers of Canada program," he said, "we prefer to do so only with the proper records at hand to ensure that only properly qualified and successfully completed students are in fact certified." Wins on invoice error loses on lost converter * Late last October, I used Hartleib The Mover Ltd. of Kitchener to move my household effects from Waterloo to Mississauga.

When I unpacked, I discovered that my television converter was missing. And the company had neglected to subtract the $50 deposit from the $623.60 cost of the move.

I called the company three times and finally wrote a letter claiming $100 for the lost converter and $50 for the invoice error.

It is now the end of July and I have heard nothing from the company. Marianna Godin, Mississauga

The president of Hartleib The Mover Ltd., Kitchener, told Star Probe in early August that a check of company files indicated that at no time did it receive a letter from Godin.

"We do acknowledge that Mrs. Godin called our office in regard to a missing converter that had been packed by herself," he said.

"We explained to Mrs. Godin that since we had not packed any items for her we could not accept any liability for the converter. At no time did Mrs. Godin mention anything regarding the deposit."

If she had, he said, it would have been corrected at once.

He admitted an error had been made by the driver when he calculated the charges and said he was sending her a $50 refund. But he said the company stood by its decision to deny any liability for the loss of the converter. Company replaces pot as "goodwill" gesture * I bought a commercial grade heavy duty cooking pot, made of stainless steel by Vollrath of Canada Ltd., about two years ago.

It provided good service until this spring when the bottom of the pot suddenly went red hot while I was searing meat in it.

I quickly shut off the burner but the pot had already started to melt and stick to the burner. The bottom of the pot, while not burned through, is damaged enough to affect its future durability and service.

My son had several telephone conversations with a Vollrath spokesman who at first seemed very co-operative, giving the impression the pot would be replaced.

However, after he saw the pot, he changed his mind. The pot was damaged, he said, because it was empty while sitting on the burner. This was simply not the case.

In addition, the pot is stamped stainless steel which has a much higher melting point than the maximum temperature of the burner. Stella Kruk, Hamilton

A spokesman for Vollrath of Canada Ltd. told Star Probe in mid-August that a new pot would be sent to our reader simply as a goodwill gesture because in his opinion the pot had been abused.

OTTAWA - OTTAWA (CP) - The Canadian Labor Congress is hoping to rally public opinion against free trade with the United States with a Labor Day message warning of dire economic consequences for Canada. "There is nothing free to free trade," congress president Dennis McDermott said in the message, released a week in advance of the national holiday.

"If we blunder into it, it may cost us what's left of our economic, social, cultural and national sovereignty," the leader of the 2-million-member labor body said.

Wipe out jobs

Reiterating congress calculations released earlier, McDermott said free trade could affect 1 million jobs. Whole industries would be "threatened, including clothing and textiles, brewing, meat packing and processing, electrical goods, machinery and equipment, furniture, footwear, high-tech goods and others.

"They are faced with much larger industries in the U.S., whose excess capacity could easily be used to satisfy the Canadian market."

Free trade also could threaten a wide range of services, grants and subsidies now aiding domestic industries because they would constitute "unfair" subsidization of Canadian exports, he said.

Social programs

"On the social front, a free-trade agreement would probably affect most of the social programs, services and legislation Canadians rely on, including medicare, public old-age pensions and security, unemployment insurance, health and safety legislation, job-training programs and workers compensation.

"Moreover, pressures to follow U.S. patterns of taxation, regulation and the like would have a serious impact on the size and structure of the public sector, with resulting adverse effects on public employees."

Free trade would also mean an even stronger American cultural influence on Canada than exists already and put added pressure on Ottawa to go along with U.S. foreign policy.

Canada risks destroying the family farm and turning food production over to enormous corporations if we agree to free trade in farm products with the U.S., says Ontario's biggest farm lobby group.

Agriculture shouldn't be part of any free trade package negotiated between Canada and the U.S., an Ontario Federation of Agriculture delegation told a Legislature committee yesterday.

The federation brief argued that the U.S. would want to dismantle many Canadian farm programs such as marketing boards and price stabilization programs.

In return, federation president Harry Pelissero said, Canada would probably get very little.

Not encouraging

He said farmers are worried that Canada would bargain away farm programs in exchange for U.S. concessions in unrelated industries.

Canada's track record in bargaining at the General Agreement on Trade and Tariffs (GATT) is not encouraging, Pelissero said: "From the farmer's point of view, we've lost out on every negotiation" at GATT.

The federation fears that Canada would do no better in two-way talks with the U.S., he said.

Brigid Pyke, vice-president of the federation, said marketing boards and price stabilization programs have helped to preserve family farms.

The U.S. - which doesn't have the same structures, and has sharply criticized some Canadian programs - is tending to concentrate food production in the hands of enormous farming and food processing corporations, she said.

"You have to look at the social costs of replacing the family farm structure," she said, adding there's no guarantee of lower food prices for consumers if production is taken over by big corporations.

Canada now permits limited imports of eggs, dairy and poultry products, and controls domestic production of them through marketing boards.

Trade in grains and red meat is relatively free, while fruit and vegetable crops get tariff protection during the Canadian harvest season.

In Ottawa yesterday, Liberal agriculture critic Maurice Foster called on the federal government to exempt farmers from a fuel tax of 9 cents a gallon and a federal sales tax increase of 1 percentage point coming into effect this fall, Canadian Press reports.

First a salmon story that may or may not be true:

Depending upon the species of salmon and the time of the year it is caught, the meat can be anything from white to bright red. But we don't see much white salmon meat, although there's nothing wrong with it, any more than we see brown beef in supermarkets. The manufacturers know we just won't buy it for pyschological reasons.

Imagine the problem, then, for the wholesaler who had a few thousand cans of white salmon and couldn't push any of it. Facing financial ruin over the deal, he placed an ad in the newspaper for a super salesman to move the product. He got dozens of replies and tried them all. But no one could push the white salmon.

One day an out-of-work advertising and marketing man came into his office and asked for a job. The wholesaler said he couldn't afford to hire him. What he needed was a super salesman, not an ad man, and he told the guy his conundrum. The ad and marketing man said, "No problem. Don't pay me, just give me a percentage of the profit on each can sold." And with nothing to lose, the wholesaler hired him.

Two weeks later, every can was sold, astounding the wholesaler. He had to know how the man had done it.

Simple, the ad and marketing man said. "I simply had a sticker printed up, which I attached to each and every can. The sticker read: "White salmon: Guaranteed not to go pink in the can.' " And that's the power of advertising. Spago-mania The guy's name is Wolfgang Puck and he owns a restaurant called Spago in Los Angeles. If you haven't heard about him or the restaurant, you're not a Californian, you're not a star and you've probably never eaten a duck liver pizza from a wood-burning oven. But Wolfgang Puck is one of the hottest chefs in the United States, a French-trained Austrian who some claim invented Californian cuisine. And during the Festival of Festivals, Puck is going to recreate his Spago menu at Sanssouci, the main room of the Sutton Place Hotel, from Sept. 5 to 14. Stay tuned for more on Puck. It will be interesting to see how many of Toronto's chefs troop down for a bite. Disguised blessing?

Air Canada flight attendants are on strike and passengers aren't being served full meals on board. It's a blessing in disguise.

Two weeks ago I flew the people's airline to Vancouver. It was supposed to be a breakfast flight but, naturally, it was delayed; I haven't been on a flight in years that hasn't been delayed. Anyway, instead of breakfast, we were served lunch. I knew we were being served lunch when the two flight attendants walked up and down the cheap-seat aisles announcing the choice: "Meat or chicken? Meat or chicken? Meat or chicken?" Since even the flight attendants couldn't tell what kind of meat it was, I took the chicken.

Now, I can eat almost anything. But I couldn't eat this rolled piece of finely chopped cardboard with glop on top. And that's a first, because no matter how mundane airline food is - and it always is - I usually eat at least the main portion. And kick myself every time I do.

The point is this: Why don't we do as European train passengers do and bring our own? I know, it's easier said than done because as many times as I've thought of it, I've never remembered to do it. A first-rate homemade sandwich would be better than airline food. Better still, why doesn't some inventive entrepreneur start selling good meals directly to the passengers? Wouldn't it be great to phone up a place like Arlequin or Fenton's or a dozen other good places and tell them you're on flight 49-V tomorrow at 9.30 a.m. from Terminal One? And then, as you go through the boarding gate, someone passes you a gourmet lunch box? Or breakfast? Or dinner? You could eat better than the first class passengers even if you, like me, sit in the cheap seats because first class doesn't get you there any faster. And if enough people did, the airlines might have to start looking at food as a high-volume, low-grade, high-profit substance pushed by flight attendants as meat or chicken. Herbs again

In the spring I wrote an article about planting an herb garden. I was fully convinced I'd never be able to do it but despite my incompetence at these things, the damn thing won't die. It's a success. It's very boring. And that's why I haven't written about it much. Less boring, but on the same subject, is the annual Herb And Spice Festival at Dundurn Castle in Hamilton from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sept. 7 and 8. You can troop down to the castle and see dozens of ways to use herbs in everything from herbal baking to bath and beauty herbs. Lectures, entertainment, demonstrations, herb and flower gardens are all there. Dundurn Castle is on York Blvd. in Hamilton. Just head out that way in the car and watch for the signs. If you want more information, call 522-5313. Veggies, anyone? The Toronto Vegetarian Association has just published a Guide To Vegetarian Restaurants In Toronto. It's a 12-page listing that includes those restaurants that are strictly vegetarian and those that offer vegetarian dishes. It's available for $1 postpaid by writing The Toronto Vegetarian Association, 28 Walker Ave., Toronto, M4V 1G2.

Who says that brown bag lunches have to be boring? Or that sandwich fillings like peanut butter, cheese and cold meat are the only choices? And what's that about lunches having to rely on high-calorie, low-nutrient foods and drinks to make the grade with students?

All of these things may have been true a few years ago, but according to an informal poll of parents, students and others who follow food trends, lunches carried by today's students are getting almost as much scrutiny as the outfits they wear to class.

The word is that this season students will be enjoying filled breads like piroshki and calzone more and regular sandwiches less. Pita bread pocket sandwiches will still be popular as will leftover pizza, egg rolls, knishes and tacos. Breads like pumpernickel, honey bran, challah, raisin, date and rye will be used more often to add new tastes and textures to fillings for sandwiches. And we will be seeing a lot more fillings on bagels and a wide array of buns from specialty bake shops.

Blenders and food processors will still be called on to turn leftover meats, vegetables, fruits and yogurt into tasty sandwich spreads. Seasoned mixtures like curried egg and tuna salad will be catching on now that students' tastebuds are becoming more sophisticated.

Also popular will be bread and buns with the layered look. Submarine-type sandwiches will show up in a lot of lunch bags.

Vegetable sticks and salads with low-fat dips and dressings will still be around to add color and crunch to lunch. Fruit, particularly Ontario apples, will be the "in" dessert and there may be some cheese or a cookie to go with it sometimes. Tiny tubs of yogurt and packages of dried fruit or Trail Mix will be back again this year.

Small tins of fruit and vegetable juice from the family freezer will still help today's nutrition-conscious kids meet vitamin C needs and stay refreshed. Helping to pack your lunch for school will be more in vogue, too. So this week our recipes come with metric measurements for students as well as the usual imperial ones for moms and dads. Sausage-Stuffed Whole Wheat Buns Tired of the same old sandwiches? Well, try wrapping bread dough or pastry around fillings? This recipe uses sausage meat, but ground beef or ham with relish or chopped hard-cooked eggs are other good choices. Cooked vegetables or spiced pork with chopped apple are other good ones to try. These buns taste great at room temperature and they freeze well, too. Preparation time: 35 minutes Rising time: 1 1/2 hours Baking time: 25 to 30 minutes Dough: 1 envelope active dry yeast 1 1/4 cups water 2 tbsp (25mL) honey 2 tbsp (25mL) butter or margarine 1 1/4 cups (300mL) whole-wheat flour 1 3/4 cups (425mL) all-purpose flour Filling: 1 lb (500g) bulk sweet or hot sausage 1 large onion, chopped 1 10-oz (300g) package frozen chopped spinach 1 cup (250mL) ricotta or mashed cottage cheese 2 eggs

Worcestershire sauce to taste

Combine yeast, water and honey in a large bowl; proof 5 minutes. Add butter and half the flours. Beat with a heavy-duty mixer or food processor. Add remaining flour, beat until smooth or knead in by hand. Place in a greased bowl and let rise in a warm place away from drafts, until doubled in bulk, about 50 minutes. Meanwhile, cook sausage meat and onion in a large frying pan until sausage is browned and onion is soft. Drain off grease. Cook spinach according to package directions. Squeeze any excess water from spinach, add to sausage mixture. Mix 1 egg with ricotta cheese and Worcestershire sauce. Add to sausage mixture. Punch down dough, knead on a floured surface until smooth. Add more all-purpose flour until dough ceases to be sticky. Roll out a 1/4-inch thickness. Cut into 4-inch circles. Place 1/4 cup filling in centre of each circle; bring edges up to the centre and pinch together. Place on lightly greased baking sheets, allowing room for rising. Cover and let rise in a warm place away from draughts until almost doubled in bulk, about 40 minutes. Beat remaining egg, and brush over buns. Bake in a preheated 375 degree F (190 degrees C) oven 25 minutes or until golden. Cool 15 minutes then refrigerate. Makes 15 buns, about 197 calories each. Cheese And Pineapple Sandwich Spread When everyday fillings like peanut butter and cold meat sound overdone, take a break and use this smooth spread made from cream cheese and some leftover canned pineapple. Preparation time: 15 minutes 1 4-oz (125g) package cream cheese

1/4 cup (50mL) well-drained crushed pineapple

Pinch ground cinnamon Beat cream cheese, pineapple and cinnamon. Thin with a little pineapple juice if necessary. Spread on half of the bread slices or buns. Top with second slice. Makes 3/4 cup (175mL) sandwich spread, about 40 calories per tablespoon (15mL). Peanut Butter Bars Here is a version of the popular cereal bars for peanut butter fans. The recipe is from The Boots Bryzoniak Cookbook (Ronald McDonald House, Winnipeg; $12.95). Preparation time: 30 minutes 1 cup (250mL) corn syrup cup (150mL) granulated sugar 1 1/2 cups (375mL) peanut butter 6 cups (1 1/2 L) Rice Crispies or Special K cereal

1 (250mL) cup chocolate chips Combine syrup and sugar in a saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stir in peanut butter. Pour over cereal in a large bowl, mix well. (Other dry cereal, including bran flakes, may be used in this recipe). Press into a buttered 13- by 9-inch (32 by 22cm) pan. Melt chocolate chips over low heat or in top of double boiler over simmering water. Spread evenly over top of bars. Cool and cut in bars. Makes 48 small bars, about 103 calories each. 8c,20 Slushes And Slurps Here is a milk drink for after-school sipping that offers creamy smoothness without all the fat and calories that come with regular milk shakes. The recipe is from Sticky Fingers (Firefly Cookbooks, $7.50). Preparation time: 5 minutes 1 cup of 1 to 2-inch (2.5 to 5 cm) pieces frozen fruit (banana, peaches, berries)

1/2 to 1 cup (125 to 250mL) skim or 2% milk Sugar or honey (optional)

1 tsp (5mL) vanilla Grind fruit in blender a few pieces at a time. Gradually add milk as you keep blending, 1/2 cup (125mL) for a "slush" to eat with a spoon and 1 cup (250mL) for a "slurp" to drink with a straw. Add honey or sugar to taste and vanilla. Blend some more. A drink made with 1/2 cup (125mL) unsweetened strawberries and 1 cup (250mL) of skim milk has 115 calories. Oatmeal Bars Don't let the ingredients in this recipe fool you. Yes, it does have wholesome things like oats, milk powder and wheat germ but there is chocolate, butter and a lot of sugar, too. These bars don't belong in any of the basic four food groups but are nice at treat time. Preparation time: 25 minutes Baking time: 20 to 25 minutes 1 cup (250mL) chocolate chips 5 tbsp (75mL) butter or margarine

3/4 cup (175mL) quick-cooking oats cup (75mL) skim milk powder

1/4 cup (50mL) wheat germ

1/2 tsp (3mL) baking powder

1/2 tsp (3mL) salt

1/2 cup (125mL) chopped walnuts 2 eggs

1/4 cup (50mL) firmly packed brown sugar

1/4 cup (50mL) granulated sugar

1 tsp (5mL) vanilla Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. (180 degrees C). Grease an 8-inch (20cm) square baking pan. Melt butter and chocolate over very low heat or in the top of a double boiler over simmering water. Remove from heat, blend and reserve. Combine oats, milk powder, wheat germ, baking powder, salt and walnuts; mix well. Beat eggs until light and fluffy. Gradually beat in sugars. Add vanilla and continue beating until mixture is thick. Stir in chocolate and oat mixtures. Spoon batter into pan, bake 20 to 25 minutes or until a wooden pick inserted in the centre comes out barley moist. Cool in pan then cover with aluminum foil and refrigerate overnight. Cut into squares. Makes 24 servings, about 58 calories each.

Diabetics' Coconut Orange Hermits Here's a tasty cookie for students who are following a diabetic diet. The recipe is from a cookbook published in co-operation with the Canadian Diabetes Association and the Juvenile Diabetes Foundation. It's called Light And Easy Choices (Grosvenor House, $12.95). Preparation time: 25 minutes Baking time: 10 to 12 minutes cup (175mL) all-purpose flour cup (175mL) whole-wheat flour 1 1/2 tsp (7mL) baking powder

1/4 cup (50ML) margarine or butter 1 tbsp (15mL) grated orange rind

1/4 cup (50mL) shredded unsweetened coconut 2 tbsp (25mL) currants or chopped raisins 2 tbsp (25mL) lightly-packed brown sugar 1 egg

1/4 cup (50mL) orange juice

Artificial sweetener equivalent to 6 tsp (30mL) sugar Preparation time: 5 minutes

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F (190 degrees C). In a mixing bowl combine flours and baking powder. With a pastry blender or two knives, cut in margarine to form a crumbly mixture. Stir in orange rind, coconut, raisins and brown sugar. Whisk egg with orange juice and sweetener. Stir into flour mixture; mix until all ingredients are just moistened. Drop 1 tablespoon (15mL) of batter at a time on to lightly greased or non-stick baking sheets about 1 1/2 inches (4cm) apart. Bake 12 to 15 minutes or until lightly browned. Makes 24 Hermits. Each serving: 2 Hermits: 1 Starchy Choice, 1 Fats And Oils Choice. (14 g carbohydrate, 2 g protein, 5 g fat and 109 calories).

These recipes were adapted and tested in Star test kitchen by Star home economist Mary McGrath.

WASHINGTON - WASHINGTON, Reuter - Many busy Americans have given up family meals and risk losing the art of serious cooking. They're too busy "grazing."

Soon, experts say only half in jest, the kitchen could become just a recreational area in the affluent home - if it doesn't go the way of the hearth and disappear.

"The (sit-down) meal itself has already disappeared in some families," says Mary Powers, a director of the Good Housekeeping Institute and chronicler of "grazing", an eating revolution said to be sweeping the professional classes.

She calls it "a non-meal phenomenon where you don't have scheduled mealtimes," eating on the move in a busy life.

"People don't eat three square meals a day," says Graham Molitor, a Washington-based food specialist. "They snack, hummingbird-style - a little bit here, a little bit there."

Not fast enough

Even fast food isn't fast enough for the new generation of eat-and-run practitioners for whom even the task of heating a can of soup often is just too much, the experts say.

Campbell Soup spokesman Jim Moran says his firm was considering making vegetable soup solidified like a candy bar.

"People tend to eat on the run, to nibble 10 or 15 times a day," he says. "We have tried to respond. Hopefully we are going to simplify soup."

Convenience meals such as "TV dinners" have been popular for years in the United States, where more than half of all married women work outside the home and have little time or inclination to prepare traditional meat-and-vegetable repasts.

Food industry estimates say a mere 30 per cent of meals now are the old-fashioned, home-cooked kind.

"You simply have food of certain types in your larder or refrigerator and family members go in and snack," says Powers.

"There is no such thing in some families as a standardized meal" as husband and wife frantically pursue their different careers and hobbies and children are preoccupied with school and their own leisure activities, she says.

Good Housekeeping says most working women object to spending more than half an hour preparing a meal.

The experts say typical grazer foods included "super nachos," a Mexican-style corn crisp filled with beef, beans and cheese, croissants stuffed with vegetables, oriental foods like egg rolls and canned mixes that look like baby formula.

Molitor, who heads a private research firm, says no accurate statistics on grazing are available because the trend was so new. But he says practitioners seemed to be professional people aged 28 to 50, with husband and wife making more than $25,000 a year each, and prepared to pay for freedom from kitchen work.

"Time is money'

Traditionalists say several home-cooked dinners could be made from fresh meat and vegetables for the cost of one frozen cordon bleu meal - but grazers retort that time is money, too.

They prefer to pay half a dollar extra for ready-to-drink orange juice than use frozen juice needing mixing with water.

A New York Times report on grazing quoted an investment banker as saying he never ate breakfast and existed on nibbles "of this and that" throughout his 12-hour day.

Moran says Campbell's goal was to tailor all its foods for use in the microwave ovens used by 40 per cent of American homes.

Traditionalists worry that meal preparation is becoming so simple that Americans in life's fast lane may be losing yet another old skill. When Pillsbury took the directions off its cans of corn - "put the corn in a pan on a heated burner" - it was besieged with complaints and had to put them back.

The Washington Post lamented that basic kitchen skills were not being passed on any more and printed, with tongue in cheek, directions on how to open a can and heat its contents.

Professor Sidney Mintz, an anthropologist at Johns Hopkins University in Baltimore, worries about the social impact of grazing.

"Eating together is an important way of learning who we are," he says. "As children we became socialized at table."

But Powers says many grazers spend weekends in the kitchen, cooking for the fun of it. "It's very much a freedom thing," she says. "Things to be done in the kitchen should be done as a choice, just like every other room in the house."

There is an Ontario planning and architectural tradition of situating the farmers' market near the city hall - commerce and government side by side.

The shift to shopping in the suburbs and modernization of city cores have changed this convenient arrangement in many cities. But it still exists in certain centres, notably Napanee and Brockville in eastern Ontario, and Cambridge in the southwest of the province.

In the heart of the architecturally beautiful old mill town of Cambridge stands the classically styled stone city hall. It's separated from the tall, rather austere red brick Victorian market building that comes alive with vendors and crowds, Saturdays year round from 5.30 a.m. to 1 p.m. and also on Wednesdays from June to September, from 6 a.m. to 1 p.m. It's a small city market worth a visit, especially if you're in the vicinity.

In summer, the quantity of produce and number of vendors naturally increases and shoppers will find farmers and market gardeners arranging baskets and unloading trailers on to the sidewalks around city hall. In a pattern that makes a lot of sense, butchers, bakers, and cheese and egg vendors are located inside the market building, and while they're all there on Saturday mornings, only a few attend on Wednesday.

Red awnings

The produce vendors on the outside are there in force both days. The prize spots right along the market building are shaded by red awnings in the summer, and occupied even in the winter by hardy apple and vegetable vendors.

The produce at the Cambridge market is at its most splendid right now. You'll find glorious peaches, heaped up in their six-quart baskets, trucked up from Niagara. There's golden corn with deep kernels for freezing, and two-tone peaches-and-cream corn, exquisite for eating right now.

Vendors sell new potatoes graded by size, early Melba apples for eating, and sour red Duchess apples for pies. There are plenty of tomatoes, garlic, eggplants, peppers, both green and red, ranging from sweet to blazingly hot, reflecting the cooking of Cambridge's numerous residents of Portuguese ancestry.

Vendors cater to picklers at this time of the year. The Nubin stall offers a selection of ripe yellow and bargain relish cucumbers along with lovely slim specimens for slicing or dills. Peter Van Brugge has an impressive array of freshly picked pickling cucumbers, too. If you want any of his prized and more expensive 1 1/2- to 2-inch cucumbers, you had better be there early. He arrives at 5 a.m. Flowers are there in abundance. Cambridge market, like all other Ontario markets in August, would not be complete without the sight of shoppers struggling to their cars balancing baskets of yellow pears, bags of corn and tomatoes, a roast under the arm, a flat of newly laid eggs, and somehow, somewhere, a dozen "glads," all scarlet, mauve, yellow, white and orange. Colorful and fresh, just like an August market. Honey-Garlic Barbecued Ribs

Look into the refrigerated cases lining the inside of the market and let your nose twitch in anticipation of the lusty aroma that will rise off your barbecue if you buy a coil of farmer's sausage, a boneless loin of pork called pork sirloin in these parts, or a few strips of ribs.

Here, in the southern part of Waterloo County, you can't forget that only the finest quality pork is raised and sold in the region. Treat yourself to some of the meaty ribs and coat them with this aromatic honey, garlic, ginger and black bean sauce before sizzling them crisp and succulent on the grill. Black beans are fermented soy beans, an inexpensive item in Chinese grocery stores. 1.3 kg (3 lb) meaty back or side ribs 1 lemon or lime Boiling water 3 cloves garlic finely minced 1 tbsp finely chopped fresh ginger 1 tbsp black beans 2 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp each vegetable oil, dry sherry, ketchup and honey

1/2 tsp salt

Generous pinch of each of cinnamon, cloves, anise seeds and freshly ground pepper

Wipe ribs; trim off excess fat and place in a medium saucepan. Halve lemon, squeeze out juice and add to pan with boiling water to cover the ribs by about 1/2 inch. Cover and simmer until ribs are tender, between 30 to 45 minutes, depending on their thickness. Remove and drain. Cut into 2-rib easy-eating portions.

Meanwhile mash together the garlic, ginger and black beans, using a food processor if desired. Mix with the soy sauce, oil, sherry, ketchup, honey, salt, cinnamon, cloves, anise seeds and pepper. Spread evenly over ribs and let marinate, if time allows, for 1 to 2 hours, covered, in the refrigerator.

Grill or broil in the oven about 4 inches from the heat for about 5 minutes on each side, or until crisp and beautifully browned. Serve immediately. There's enough here for 4 to 6, the number depending on whether the eaters are real rib lovers or just normal people. Herbed Spanish Onions

I asked Clifton Felix, who trucks his produce in from Brantford, what his customers do with the giant Spanish onions he sells. "Hamburgers," he replied. As simple as that, and what a quantity of hamburgers these 700 g (1 1/2 lb) specimens would dress. Felix sells his big beauties for 50 cents each; elsewhere in the market smaller ones are going three for a dollar. Take Felix's suggestion, but dress the slices up with fresh herbs and serve a bowlful with your next patio burgers. 1 large Spanish onion, about 450 g (1 lb) cup white distilled or wine vinegar 2 tbsp water 2 tbsp granulated sugar 1 tbsp chopped fresh basil or oregano or thyme or dill

1/2 tsp salt

Pinch each freshly ground pepper and cayenne

Peel and slice onion thinly. Place slices in a medium bowl. Add vinegar, water, sugar, basil, salt, pepper and cayenne. Toss well together, separating the rings as you toss, and chill, covered, for an hour or two if possible before serving.

This little salad goes very nicely on any summer buffet, and the mild onions do not offend. However, if you want an even milder onion taste, soak the slices in ice water for 20 minutes before dressing with other ingredients. Makes enough for 12 good burgers, and an onion sandwich or two for the cook. Peachy Orange Muffins Authors Jo Marie Powers and Anita Stewart so enjoyed going to farmers' markets that they wrote The Farmers' Market Cookbook (Stoddart Publishing, $12.95), with recipes collected from vendors all over the province. Included also are a few of their own recipes. A suitable tribute to the red haven peaches now beguiling buyers is their Peachy Orange Muffins, slightly adapted below. 1 medium orange, 175 g/6 oz 1 cup milk 3 tbsp water

1/2 cup shortening 1 cup granulated sugar 1 egg 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 tsp baking powder

1/2 tsp baking soda

1/2 tsp salt

1 cup chopped fresh peaches

Grease or line with paper 12 large muffin cups. Set aside.

Wash orange; cut into 8 pieces. Chop pieces finely in a food grinder or food processor. There should be cup; too much orange pulp will make the muffin batter too runny. Combine pulp with milk and water.

In a large bowl cream together shortening and sugar. Beat in the egg. Stir together the flour, baking powder, soda and salt.

Into creamed mixture stir in a third of the dry ingredients, then half the liquid. Continue using as few strokes as possible to add another third of the dry and all the remaining wet ingredients. Over the surface sprinkle on the remaining dry ingredients and all the peaches. Mix together into the batter just until ingredients blend.

Spoon into prepared muffin tins, filling them to the top.

Bake at 375 degrees F for 20 to 25 minutes or until the muffins are springy to the touch and golden brown. They should give off a wonderful fragrance of oranges and peaches. Makes 12 large muffins. Serve for breakfast or snack with cream cheese. Paprika New Potatoes On the curve of Cambridge St., leading into the busiest area of vendors and shoppers, John Durham sets out six-quart baskets of clean, smooth honey-colored potatoes. The variety is Cherokee, a little waxier than the other two prominent new potatoes, the round red-skinned Chieftain and the buff Superior. But then, all new potatoes are moister and waxier than potatoes coming out of storage, and it's this waxiness that makes them so good for dishes where you want the potatoes to stay firm, as in potato salads, or this simple potato, onion and paprika dish. 2 tbsp butter 1 cup chopped onions 1 tsp paprika 6 medium new potatoes, 650 g/1 1/2 lb

1/2 cup water

1/2 tsp salt Pinch freshly ground pepper

2 tbsp cream or sour cream

In a medium-sized heavy bottomed saucepan melt butter over medium heat. Add onions; fry until translucent, about 4 minutes. Mix in paprika and continue cooking for 1 to 2 minutes.

Meanwhile scrub, but do not peel, potatoes. Cut lengthwise into 1/2 inch slices; add to onions and stir gently to coat slices with onions and paprika. Pour on water, season with salt and pepper, cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are tender, about 25 to 30 minutes. By this time the water will have evaporated and the sauce will coat the slices. Gently mix in cream and taste to see if you want more salt or pepper.

Serve immediately, or keep warm for a few minutes. Good with any grilled fish or meat, roast chicken and chops. Makes enough for 3 to 4.

The Cafe Mediterranee is a cozy place, just a step off Yonge St. near Lawrence. The small stucco-covered room has a casual air, but the nondescript decor hardly suggests the vivid Armenian fare served there.

The cafe is family-owned and operated, and this even extends to the music. A sound system is set up for the owner or friends to sing and play guitar and organ when the mood strikes.

On the night we were there, the owner's mother, a smiling hospitable woman, said she had "escaped the kitchen" to wait on tables. She brought us warm pita bread and suggested we were ordering too much. Piyaz Salad ($3.25) was tender white beans with lettuce and tomato dotted with a subtle vinaigrette. Fried eggplant ($4.25) won top honors from a Star reviewer a few years ago, and we couldn't recall a better version of the dish. The eggplant came lightly fried with a tang of lemon, and was served with tomato and green pepper.

Lamb Shish Kebab with yogurt consisted of small, dry pieces of meat, smothered in yogurt and served with rice pilaff and broiled green pepper, onion and tomato ($8.95).

King Fish Steak ($9.95) was well barbecued and accompanied by rice pilaf and the vegetable of the day (tomato). Most of the desserts were not in stock, so we tried the homemade baklava ($1.75). This version was superb; flaky and not too sweet. With a half-litre of Italian white wine ($8), the bill came to $48.28 with tax and tip. It would be even less if you took our advice and visited the cafe for its appetizers and dessert. - Jacqueline Swartz

The Star's daily restaurant review

TABLE FOR TWO Cafe Mediterranee 2655 Yonge St. 488-3976 Eastern Mediterranean food; seats 30; full licence; takes major cards; wheelchair access, no no-smoking area; hours: Monday-Thursday noon to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, noon to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 5-10 p.m.; no reservations.

WASHINGTON - WASHINGTON (AP) - Non-farm business productivity rose at an annual rate of 1 per cent in the second quarter of 1985, the U.S. labor department says, with especially strong gains in the manufacturing sector due to competitive pressure from imports. Meanwhile, there's good news on the inflation front because unit labor costs moderated, says the department's labor statistics bureau, which has issued final figures revised from preliminary data released a month ago. Output in non-farm business rose at an annual 2.2 per cent rate compared with the first quarter while hours worked rose 1.2 per cent. The second-quarter increase in productivity is an upward revision from the 0.5 per cent preliminary figure issued last month. Manufacturing productivity rose at an annual rate of 7.5 per cent, due to intense competitive pressure on U.S. industry from imports. Unit labor costs in manufacturing fell 2.5 per cent and in non-farm business they rose 2.3 per cent from April to June. The figures are an improvement from first-quarter performance, when productivity declined 3.1 per cent and unit labor costs rose 8.4 per cent, raising some fears about the possibility of renewed inflation. Record fine levied on American bank WASHINGTON (AP) - A U.S. government agency has imposed a record $2.25 million (U.S.) in penalties against Crocker National Bank of San Francisco for failing to report almost $4 billion in cash transactions. U.S. treasury department officials say the bank, the country's 11th-largest, committed 7,877 reporting violations from 1980 through 1984. Banks are required to report all cash transactions above $10,000. Taiwan to cut tariffs on American products TAIPEI (Reuter) - Taiwan is preparing to lower tariffs and offer greater access to American products to help ease a $9.8-billion (U.S.) trade imbalance with the United States, Economics Minister Lee Ta-hai says. Lee says several government agencies had discussed ways to encourage U.S. imports. The agencies also discussed cracking down on the widespread counterfeiting of U.S. computers and books, he said. Taiwan agreed during a recent visit by a Congressional delegation headed by Senate Republican Leader Robert Dole to cut tariffs on 174 U.S. products, including meat, cosmetics and precision tools. Lee said Taiwan and the United States will meet next month to discuss trade problems.

Now that flavored popcorn is, thankfully, over the hill, and croissants have been filled with everything short of the Eiffel Tower, it's time to infiltrate the egg roll.

After all, if wonton wrappers can be stuffed with goat and St. Andre cheeses and served as ravioli, then egg rolls can broaden their ethnic affiliation.

In fact, the precedent has already been set; the Soul Roll, a soul-food version of the Chinese staple, was invented in the kitchen of a Wheaton, Md., couple a few years ago and has been served in the District of Columbia's school lunch program.

Every culture has its filled-dough food: India has samosas and pakoras, Mexico its burritos; Jews have blintzes; Greeks phyllo; the French have crepes; the English have pasties.

Why not experiment with the fillings in egg-roll wrappers, now readily available in supermarket produce cases?

For a Mexican egg roll, saut some ground beef and add chopped jalapenos. Drain the fat, and mix the meat with grated cheddar or Monterey Jack cheeses. Roll into an egg roll wrapper with chopped lettuce and tomatoes, and deep fry. Serve with sliced oranges sprinkled with cinnamon.

Stuff an Italian egg roll with ricotta cheese spiked with nutmeg, sauted spinach and chopped walnuts. Serve the deep-fried rolls with a chunky tomato sauce made by simply sauteing fresh chopped tomatoes and basil in olive oil.

Chopped ham, grated gruyere cheese, mushrooms and bean sprouts can occupy the All-American roll; for a blintz version, stuff cottage and-or farmer cheeses, eggs and cinnamon into an egg roll and top with fresh fruit or a fresh peach sauce. This egg roll is really an adaptation of Indian samosas, those triangular-shaped pies filled with ground lamb or peas and potatoes. All you'll need is oil on your shelf before making your cross-cultural purchases at the store. Egg-roll Samosas (Makes 6 to 8 egg rolls) 2 tbsp vegetable oil plus extra for frying 1 small onion, chopped 1 tsp cumin

1/2 tsp turmeric 1 tsp grated fresh ginger, or more to taste 3 small new potatoes, cooked, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes

3/4 cup cooked green peas 6 to 8 egg-roll wrappers

Yogurt for serving

In a large skillet, heat the 2 tablespoons of oil. Add the onion and saut until soft. Stir in the cumin, turmeric and ginger, then add cubed potatoes and peas. Stir to coat vegetables with spices.

Take one egg roll wrapper and place on counter with point facing you. Place one-sixth or one-eighth of the filling in the centre of one wrapper. Fold bottom point up over filling. Fold in sides, then roll up jelly-roll fashion. Seal the edges with water. Repeat with remaining filling and wrappers, using up all the ingredients.

Heat 3 inches of oil in a heavy pot. Cut a small square of bread to test for readiness. The oil should bubble quickly over it and turn it toasty brown, but it should not be so hot that the bread turns black or chars. (Oil should be 350 degrees F on a deep-frying thermometer.)

Add rolls in a single layer. Cook about 1 1/2 to 2 minutes on one side (just until browned). Flip and repeat on other side. Remove and drain on paper towels. Repeat, cooking all the rolls. Serve with yogurt.

Ontario peaches are a good buy this week and if you can find time for pickling over the holiday weekend, here's a recipe from The Laura Secord Cookbook (McClelland, $12.95). The pickled peaches will give a lift to winter meals of turkey, pork, duck or veal. They also make welcome hostess gifts. Pickled Peaches 6 lb (2.72 kg) peaches (about 25 medium) Whole cloves 12 1/2 cups water 3 tbsp vinegar 9 cups granulated sugar 5 cups white vinegar 1 1/2 cups water 1 piece whole dried ginger

1 3-inch cinnamon stick

Dip peaches in boiling water and then in cold water to loosen skins. Stick 2 whole cloves in each peach. Cover peaches with a mixture of 12 1/2 cups of water and 3 tablespoons vinegar. In a large preserving kettle, combine 9 cups sugar, 5 cups vinegar and 1 1/2 cups water. Add ginger and cinnamon tied together in cheesecloth. Bring to a boil; add drained peaches. Cover and boil about 10 minutes or until peaches are tender. Let stand overnight with a plate on top to keep peaches under surface of liquid. Next day, pack peaches in hot, sterilized jars. Bring syrup to a boil, simmer uncovered 5 minutes. Remove spice bag, pour over peaches, filling each jar to overflowing. Secure lid. Makes 6 to 7 pints.

Without gasoline for the bus, little Joey and Susie and scores of others wouldn't have been able to escape from the summer heat of their Metro homes to go fishing in the Caledon Hills.

That's one of the phases of summer camping Rev. Alex Zeidman, director of the Spadina Ave. Scott Mission, calls "the meat and potatoes" of the camping business.

The Star Fresh Air Fund, which has helped to send nearly 20,000 needy and handicapped children from every corner of Metro to 80 day and country camps since last June, is currently short of its $275,000 goal.

It needs $25,562.89 to help pay off the camps' "meat and potatoes" items and it needs that amount within the next three days.

Record number

Zeidman sent a record 617 needy children to the mission's camp in the Caledon Hills this summer and yesterday called it "a step in faith."

He said no thought of the cost came up when the buses were rolling north every 10 days in July and August with happy, singing youngsters from one of the most cosmopolitan areas in Toronto.

"We are a member of The Star Fresh Air Fund and we sent the children, knowing that somehow all the bills would be paid at the end of the season," Zeidman said. "Now it's bill-paying time and our benefactor, The Star Fresh Air Fund, is short. But I have no doubt that before the end of the week the fund's total of $275,000 will be reached."

Zeidman said most camps are now facing bills for the items that must be paid for long before another season starts.

"As well as transportation, we're talking now about food for the camp's dining room tables, the maintenance of the swimming pools and the cooks and other staff to supervise the whole affair," Zeidman said.

Lots of bills

"I realize that gasoline, without which the buses will not move, and these other items do not have the same human interest appeal that the original personal stories of Joey and Susie had. Nevertheless, these things must be paid for and the bills are now coming in thick and fast."

What would Joey and Susie have done had they not had the opportunity to attend the Scott Mission camp?

"Like so many others, they would probably have wound up in some sort of trouble," Zeidman said. "Instead of nature trails, they might have gone down dangerous back lanes and alleys almost looking for trouble. With all the temptations of a modern city like ours, it would be easy for them to make mistakes. Happily, 617 Joeys and Susies came with us and now we need help, through The Star Fresh Air Fund, to pay their way."

You are invited to rush a gift today to The Star Fresh Air Fund, One Yonge St., Toronto, Ont., M5E 1E6.

All contributions are deductible for income tax purposes and will be acknowledged in The Star.

Now that Ottawa and the provinces have licked the simple stuff like oil pricing and tax sharing, they're getting down to the difficult issue of farm support policies.

It's not much noticed by city folk, but the problem of who should pay how much to keep farm incomes up is probably the most divisive issue in federal-provincial relations today.

And the problem in Canada is a microcosm of what's going on internationally: Farm subsidies have sparked tension between Canada and the U.S., and between North America and Western Europe, as farmers glare at each other from over-stuffed grain bins and threaten to beat ploughshares into swords in an all-out trade war.

The flashpoint in Canada has been a four-year struggle to get a national scheme in place to prop up the incomes of pork and beef producers.

It sounds simple, but it has all the potential of provoking long-lasting bitterness between Ontario and the Prairie provinces on one hand, and Quebec and B.C. on the other.

Caught in the middle is federal Agriculture Minister John Wise. He's been trying to use the Brian Mulroney tactics of consulting, lobbying and negotiating to get everyone agreeing before he takes action.

But determined beef and pork producers pressured him last week into making a decison, but it looks as if it will be impossible to bring everyone into the fold.

The price of failure, according to the central provinces, is an all-out subsidy war within Canada, with each province outbidding the next in farm supports to give its own farmers an edge over its neighbors.

That will drain provincial treasuries, they warn. And it would probably trigger retaliatory tariffs on Canadian livestock and meat from the U.S. - which has already slapped tariffs on Canadian hogs.

The scheme at the bottom of the dispute is relatively simple in broad terms.

It would act more or less like a price insurance scheme for farmers, heavily subsidized by both provincial and federal governments.

Farmers, participating provinces and Ottawa would each pay into a fund, and farmers would get payments back if prices dipped significantly below the average for the previous five years.

Because farmers and politicians dislike the word subsidy, they call it a "stabilization" plan - although two-thirds of the money in the insurance fund would be contributed by taxpayers.

The problem comes here: The plan supported by Ontario and the Prairies would eliminate all provincial subsidies. They blame provnicial subsidy schemes for provoking U.S. hog farmers into launching a successful bid to get import duties levied on Canadian hogs.

National scheme

Provinces would be free to stay out of the national scheme proposed by Ontario and the Prairie provinces. But if other provinces wanted in, and wanted the federal government's money, they'd have to drop their own farm supports.

That's anathema to Quebec, which has rich price supports for both hogs and beef cattle.

The 58 Quebec Conservative MPs have been putting the heat on Wise not to endorse any such deal. Quebec farm leaders have also been making their anger known that Wise could even be thinking of a plan that would threaten their provincial price supports.

But Ontario, the prairies and the Maritimes are growing impatient.

The Canadian Cattlemen's Association says it has the agreement of seven provinces, representing 90 per cent of the beef industry, on the national scheme.

When they met Wise this week, they demanded some leadership.

"That leadership should come from the federal government," said the Cattlemen's executive vice-president Charlie Gracey. "Instead, it's coming from us."

And some of the farm leaders who met Wise this week say they want to take the proposal straight to the Prime Minister.

In an interview with The Star last Thursday, Wise said it's not that simple.

"I personally am totally committed to bringing about rationalization and stabilization programs," Wise said.

"(But) there's a difference between sitting around a table and talking in general terms, and sitting down at a table with a pen in hand to sign an agreement."

Cattlemen's association

"It's not my intent to delay," Wise insisted. "It's not my intent to sidetrack or anything of that nature . . . (but) their provincial backyards, even their combined provincial backyards, do not represent the whole of Canada."

And at this point, Wise doesn't even agree on basic facts with the cattlemen's association.

Riddell

Wise, for instance, claims that the cattlemen don't have the complete backing of the Maritime provinces; the cattlemen say otherwise.

While both cattle and pork producers say they've been working on the proposed plan anywhere from four to seven years, Wise characterized most of that as "soft" work, and said the "hard" work has just begun within the past year.

And he says Ontario and the Prairies are leaving little room for the provinces who don't want to go along.

"There is still a fair amount of rigidity expressed by producers and provinces which are onside (in favor of the proposed plan). And so that road to accommodate is a very, very narrow road to manoeuvre on."

Wise is making no promises except that a decision will come by the end of September.

"We have to have a positive or negative reaction," is all he'll say.

Ontario, led by Agriculture Minister Jack Riddell, and Alberta both are primed and ready to go with their beef and pork support schemes if the national plan is turned down.

Wise has the choice of facing a showdown with the Quebec caucus, or losing face with a majority of hog and beef cattle farmers in Canada.

It's a tough decision. The federal Conservatives achieved harmony among the provinces during their first year in office; this choice will be an indication of whether they're willing to put that harmony to the test in the face of a decision that's unlikely to satisfy everyone.

The three witches in Shakespeare's Macbeth whipped up a stew of sorts by adding to their cauldron such things as "eye of newt and toe of frog, wool of bat and tongue of dog." Then they metaphorically served it up to Macbeth, who promptly hallucinated and saw three apparitions.

Now, you don't want to do that to your family or guests, do you?

So take a cooking course.

The number of courses offered by both the privately run cooking schools and the cooking institutions in and around Metro is staggering. You can learn anything from how to boil water to how to stuff milkweed pods. And today The Star gives you a comprehensive guide to the schools, starting below.

The list of private cooking schools has 52 categories covering everything from appetizers to wine. As well, there is a separate list of courses offered by institutions, school boards and parks and recreation departments this fall and winter.

The variety is staggering, too. George Brown College has a course called The Edible Wild, which proves that goldenrod pancakes are nothing to sneeze at. Pierre de Serre, the inventor of the incredible Smart Pot controlled cooker, will teach you not only how to make use of the ingenious device but also the science of controlling textures in meat (447-7878). David Brown of Meat Consultants International will show you how to buy, prepare and save money on meat purchases at both the North York (229-5507)

and East York (425-9435) boards of education. And, if you hurry, you may get the chance to see how the famous Madeleine Kamman prepares meat when she comes to Bonnie Stern's School of Cooking in November. You can choose courses held during the day or at night, or which last one day or 20 weeks. Gunther Schubert, a chef who has presided over such restaurants as Glossops, La Bodega and 21 McGill, has a cooking course at which you and several others spend a weekend at his country home, cooking up a storm with the master (489-6908). Seneca College will teach you how to avoid the most painful of all possible strikes with its homebrew instruction. And there's even a cooking course for new Canadians called Cook, Talk And Eat at Central Technical School, introducing immigrants to the food and customs of Canada in the best possible way - through the stomach. Adder's fork and blind woman's sting Lizard's leg and howlet's wing If you take a course below A better cook you'll surely grow. (With apologies to W. Shakespeare) Courses abound for aspiring cooks The following is a list, by category, of privately run cooking classes in and around Metro: Appetizers/hors d'oeuvres

Academy of Culinary Arts, 1703 Bayview Ave. 486-1859.

Birthe Maries Cooking School, 88 Hillside Dr., Bramalea. 453-6647.

Bonnie Stern School of Cooking, 6 Erskine Ave. 484-4810.

Calories Fine Food, 177 Glencairn Ave. 484-0667.

Faith Robinson's School of Cooking, 38 Senator Reesor's Dr., Markham. 294-0056.

Jan Main's Kitchen, 295 Kingswood Rd. 691-1325.

Margie's School of Cooking, 210 Gloucester Ave., Oakville. 845-2302.

The Farmhouse Kitchen, RR4, Tottenham. 936-2660. The School of Classic Cooking, 21 Mercer St., Dundas. 1-627-4933. Baking

Bosch Baking School, 400 Matheson Blvd., Unit 22, Mississauga. 890-2900.

Calories Fine Food, 177 Glencairn Ave. 484-0667.

Jan Main's Kitchen, 295 Kingswood Rd. 691-1325.

McCall's School of Cake Decoration, 3810 Bloor St. W. 231-8040.

Simpson's Creative Touch Cooking School, Fairview Park Mall, Kitchener. 1-519-894-1111. Temi's School of Cooking, 17 Humewood Gardens. 651-8868. Barbecue

Faith Robinson's School of Cooking, 38 Senator Reesor's Dr., Markham. 294-0056. Kitchen Capers, 5 Tate Court, Sharon. 1-478-2409. Basics

Academy of Culinary Arts, 1703 Bayview Ave. 486-1859.

Centennial College, Warden Woods Campus (Warden and St. Clair). 299-1700.

Gunther Schubert, chef de cuisine. 489-6908. The School of Classic Cooking, 21 Mercer St., Dundas. 627-4933. Breadmaking

Academy of Culinary Arts, 1703 Bayview Ave. 486-1859.

City of North York, Parks and Recreation Dept., 1700 Finch Ave. E. 224-6269.

Kitchen Capers, 5 Tate Court, Sharon. 1-478-2409.

Nutcracker Sweet, 3015 Winston Churchill Blvd., Mississauga. 828-1143. The Farmhouse Kitchen, RR4, Tottenham. 1-936-2660. Brunch

Bonnie Stern School of Cooking, 6 Erskine Ave. 484-4810. Jo Cackers Cooking School, 573 Eglinton Ave. W. 485-2110. Cajun/Creole cooking

Nutcracker Sweet, 3015 Winston Churchill Blvd., Mississauga. 828-1143.

The Pampered Palate, 38 Metcalfe St. 928-9248. The Southern & Cajun Kitchen, 524 Bathurst St. 781-2564 or 961-2260. Cake decorating

Kitchen Capers, 5 Tate Court, Sharon. 1-478-2409.

McCall's School of Cake Decoration, 3810 Bloor St. W. 231-8040.

Nutcracker Sweet, 3015 Winston Churchill Blvd., Mississauga. 828-1143.

Susie Cotton, 66 Babcombe Dr., Thornhill. 881-0538.

The Farmhouse Kitchen, RR4, Tottenham. 1-936-2660.

The Kitchen Door Ltd., 69 Main St., Markham. 294-0676. Trim A Cake, 2692 Danforth Ave. 690-7653. Californian cuisine Bonnie Stern School of Cooking, 6 Erskine Ave. 484-4810. Candy making The Kitchen Door Ltd., 69 Main St., Markham. 294-0676. Chicken Birthe Maries Cooking School, 88 Hillside Dr., Bramalea. 453-6647. Chinese

Birthe Maries Cooking School, 88 Hillside Dr., Bramalea. 453-6647.

Bonnie Stern School of Cooking, 6 Erskine Ave. 484-4810.

City of North York, Parks and Recreation Dept., 1700 Finch Ave. E. 224-6249.

Faith Robinson's School of Cooking, 38 Senator Reesor's Dr., Markham. 294-0056.

Mary's Delight, 2094 Brimley Rd., Unit 4. 299-8889.

Syl's International Cooking, 128 Albany Ave. 532-8167. The Chinese Cookery Ltd. (Marina Loo), 332 McKee Ave. 223-1708. Chocolate

Bonnie Stern School of Cooking, 6 Erskine Ave. 484-4810.

Calories Fine Food, 177 Glencairn Ave. 484-0667.

McCall's School of Cake Decoration, 3810 Bloor St. W. 231-8040. Trim A Cake, 2692 Danforth Ave. 690-7653. Christmas and Holiday Cooking

Academy of Culinary Arts, 1703 Bayview Ave. 486-1859.

Birthe Maries Cooking School, 88 Hillside Dr., Bramalea. 453-6647.

Faith Robinson's School of Cooking, 38 Senator Reesor's Dr., Markham. 294-0056.

Grace Meyers Cooking School, 220 Cornwallis Court, Oshawa. 1-723-8046.

Kitchen Capers, 5 Tate Court, Sharon. 1-478-2409.

Simpson's Creative Touch Cooking School, Fairview Park Mall, Kitchener. 1-519-894-1111.

The Farmhouse Kitchen, RR4, Tottenham. 1-936-2660.

The Kitchen Door Ltd., 69 Main St., Markham. 294-0676. The School of Classic Cooking, 21 Mercer St., Dundas. 1-627-4933. Cooking techniques Smart Pot Cookery (Pierre de Serre), Bob Rumball School for the Deaf, 2395 Bayview Ave. 447-7878. Croissant

Faith Robinson's School of Cooking, 38 Senator Reesor's Dr., Markham. 294-0056. McCall's School of Cake Decoration, 3810 Bloor St. W. 231-8040. Desserts

Bosch Baking and Dehydration School, 400 Matheson Blvd., Unit 22, Mississauga. 273-9600.

Calories Fine Food, 177 Glencairn Ave. 484-0667.

Jan Main's Kitchen, 295 Kingswood Rd. 691-1325.

Margie's School of Cooking, 210 Gloucester Ave., Oakville. 845-2302. Simpson's Creative Touch Cooking School, Fairview Park Mall, Kitchener. 1-519-894-1111. Diabetic meals Canadian Diabetes Association, 562 Eglinton Ave. E., Suite 313. 488-8871. Diet and nutrition Kathleen's Cooking and Nutrition Centre, several Metro locations. 925-2474. Dim Sum Mary's Delight, 2094 Brimley Rd., Unit 4. 299-8889. East Indian Syl's International Cooking, 128 Albany Ave. 532-8167. Entertainment menus

Janet Cornwall School of Cooking, 340 Carey Court, Oakville. 842-0178.

Jan Main's Kitchen, 295 Kingswood Rd. 691-1325.

Kitchen Capers, 5 Tate Court, Sharon. 1-478-2409.

Nutcracker Sweet, 3015 Winston Churchill Blvd., Mississauga. 828-1143.

Party Perfect, 313 Glenayr Rd. and 30 Dunlace Dr., Willowdale. 485-9768 or 449-7717.

Simpson's Creative Touch Cooking School, Fairview Park Mall, Kitchener. 1-519-894-1111.

The Blue Danube Cooking School, 1340 Oak Lane, Mississauga. 274-5521.

The Kitchen Door Ltd., 69 Main St., Markham. 294-0676. The School of Classic Cooking, 21 Mercer St., Dundas. 1-627-4933. Fall entertaining menus Jan Main's Kitchen, 295 Kingswood Rd. 691-1325. Fish cookery

Academy of Culinary Arts, 1703 Bayview Ave. 486-1859. Bonnie Stern School of Cooking, 6 Erskine Ave. 484-4810. Food processor

Birthe Maries Cooking School, 88 Hillside Dr., Bramalea. 453-6647.

Bonnie Stern School of Cooking, 6 Erskine Ave. 484-4810.

City of North York, Parks and Recreation Dept., 1700 Finch Ave. E., and at 7 Edithvale Dr. 224-6269.

Empire Cooking School, 29 Division St., Colborne. 1-355-2389.

Faith Robinson's School of Cooking, 38 Senator Reesor's Dr., Markham. 294-0056.

Nutcracker Sweet, 3015 Winston Churchill Blvd., Mississauga. 828-1143.

The Farmhouse Kitchen, RR4, Tottenham, 1-936-2660. The School of Classic Cooking, 21 Mercer St., Dundas. 1-627-4933. French

Faith Robinson's School of Cooking, 38 Senator Reesor's Dr., Markham. 294-0056.

Margie's School of Cooking, 210 Gloucester Ave., Oakville. 845-2302.

The Courthouse School of French Cooking, Hwy. 93, 1 mile north of Hwy 400, Hillsdale. 1-705-835-3815. The School of Classic Cooking, 21 Mercer St., Dundas. 1-627-4933. Garnishing Kitchen Capers, 5 Tate Court, Sharon. 1-478-2409. Gifts from the kitchen

Birthe Maries Cooking School, 88 Hillside Dr., Bramalea. 453-6647. The Pampered Palate, 38 Metcalfe St. 928-9248. Gourmet

Centennial College, Warden Woods Campus (Warden and St. Clair). 299-1700.

Cooking Courses With Maria Pace, 247 Niagara St. 861-1679.

City of North York, Parks and Recreation Dept., Bayview Arena, 3230 Bayview Ave. 224-6269.

Faith Robinson's School of Cooking, 38 Senator Reesor's Dr., Markham. 294-0056.

Gunther Shubert, chef de cuisine. 489-6908.

Jo Cackers Cooking School, 573 Eglinton Ave. W. 485-2110.

Temi's School of Cooking, 17 Humewood Gardens. 651-8868. The Kitchen Door Ltd., 69 Main St., Markham. 294-0676. Herb cookery Nutcracker Sweet, 3015 Winston Churchill Blvd., Mississauga. 828-1143. Hors d'oeuvres Birthe Maries Cooking School, 88 Hillside Dr., Bramalea. 453-6647. International

Academy of Culinary Arts, 1703 Bayview Ave. 486-1859.

Jan Main's Kitchen, 295 Kingswood Rd. 691-1325. The School of Classic Cooking, 21 Mercer St., Dundas. 1-627-4933. Italian cuisine

Bonnie Stern School of Cooking, 6 Erskine Ave. 484-4810.

Cooking Courses With Maria Pace, 247 Niagara St. 861-1679.

Faith Robinson's School of Cooking, 38 Senator Reesor's Dr., Markham. 294-0056.

Janet Cornwall School of Cooking, 340 Carey Court, Oakville. 842-0178. The School of Classic Cooking, 21 Mercer St., Dundas. 1-627-4933. Preserves Simpson's Creative Touch Cooking School, Fairview Park Mall, Kitchener. 1-519-894-1111. Japanese cooking The Bento Box, 217 Beverley St., Unit 2. 532-6306. Kids only Simpson's Creative Touch Cooking School, Fairview Park Mall, Kitchener. 1-519-894-1111. Light cooking

Bonnie Stern School of Cooking, 6 Erskine Ave. 484-4810. Margie's School of Cooking, 210 Gloucester Ave., Oakville. 845-2302. Meatless meals

City of North York, Parks and Recreation Dept., 1700 Finch Ave. E.; 7 Edithvale Dr. and 1700 Finch Ave. E. 224-6269. Simpson's Creative Touch Cooking School, Fairview Park Mall, Kitchener. 1-519-894-1111. Mediterranean cuisine Nutcracker Sweet, 3015 Winston Churchill Blvd., Mississauga. 828-1143. Men only Simpson's Creative Touch Cooking School, Fairview Park Mall, Kitchener. 1-519-894-1111. Microwave cooking

Academy of Culinary Arts, 1703 Bayview Ave. 486-1859.

Birthe Maries Cooking School, 88 Hillside Dr., Bramalea. 453-6647.

City of North York, Parks and Recreation Dept., Edithvale Community Centre, 7 Edithvale Dr. 224-6269.

Empire Cooking School, 29 Division St., Colborne. 1-355-2389.

Faith Robinson's School of Cooking, 38 Senator Reesor's Dr., Markham. 294-0056.

Fran's Microwave, 273 Weldrick Rd., Richmond Hill. 883-5406.

Grace Meyers Cooking School, 220 Cornwallis Court, Oshawa. 1-723-8046.

Kitchen Capers, 5 Tate Court, Sharon. 1-478-2409.

Nutcracker Sweet, 3015 Winston Churchill Blvd., Mississauga. 828-1143.

Simpson's Creative Touch Cooking School, Fairview Park Mall, Kitchener. 1-519-894-1111.

The Farmhouse Kitchen, RR4, Tottenham. 1-936-2660.

The Kitchen Door Ltd., 69 Main St., Markham. 294-0676. The Microwave Place, Cloverdale Mall, Islington and Store Rd. Mall, Guelph. 1-519-793-8918. Pasta making

Bosch Baking School, 400 Matheson Blvd., Unit 22, Mississauga. 890-2900.

Cooking Courses With Maria Pace, 247 Niagara St. 861-1679. The School of Classic Cooking, 21 Mercer St., Dundas. 1-627-4933. Pastry

Cooking Courses With Maria Pace, 247 Niagara St. 861-1679.

Kitchen Capers, 5 Tate Court, Sharon. 1-478-2409.

Simpson's Creative Touch Cooking School, Fairview Park Mall, Kitchener. 1-519-894-1111. The Farmhouse Kitchen, RR4, Tottenham. 1-936-2660. Quick meals

Jo Cackers Cooking School, 573 Eglinton Ave. W. 485-2110. The Farmhouse Kitchen, RR4, Tottenham. 1-936-2660. Sausage making Bosch Baking School, 400 Matheson Blvd., Unit 22, Mississauga. 890-2900. Seafood Academy of Culinary Arts, 1703 Bayview Ave. 486-1859. Souffles Cooking Courses With Maria Pace, 247 Niagara St. 861-1679. Soup and sandwiches

Birthe Maries Cooking School, 88 Hillside Dr., Bramalea. 453-6647.

Jo Cackers Cooking School, 573 Eglinton Ave. W. 485-2110. The Farmhouse Kitchen, RR4, Tottenham. 1-936-2660. Spring entertaining menus Jan Main's Kitchen, 295 Kingswood Rd. 691-1325. Summer entertaining menus

Jan Main's Kitchen, 295 Kingswood Rd. 691-1325. The School of Classic Cooking, 21 Mercer St., Dundas. 1-627-4933. Teenagers' cooking courses

Faith Robinson's School of Cooking, 38 Senator Reesor's Dr., Markham. 294-0056. Jan Main's Kitchen, 295 Kingswood Rd. 691-1325. Vegetarian cooking Simpson's Creative Touch Cooking School, Fairview Park Mall, Kitchener. 1-519-894-1111. West Indian Syl's International Cooking, 128 Albany Ave. 532-8167. Wine Bonnie Stern School of Cooking, 6 Erskine Ave. 484-4810. Vintage House, Raclette's Wine Bar (Andrew Sharp), 361 Queen St. W. 429-6523. Public cooking courses range all the way from soup to nuts

School boards, parks and recreation departments, community colleges and technical schools all have cooking courses in the Metro area. The sheer number makes it impossible to list by category, but below is a quick breakdown of the various courses offered by each. Call the appropriate telephone numbers for more information.

Toronto high schools: Many Toronto high schools offer night courses in cooking. To find out which courses the high school nearest your home is offering, simply drop into the school and pick up a brochure. As an example, here is what Central Tech is offering this fall, beginning Sept. 30 (the winter courses start Jan. 6):

Baking, basics, cake decorating, Caribbean cooking, Chinese cuisine, food processor, gourmet cooking, international cuisine, jams, jellies, pickles and preserves, nutritional meals, pasta, vegetarian cooking.

Etobicoke Board of Education, Continuing Education Division (626-4360): Most courses begin the week of Sept. 30. Chinese, company casseroles, food processor, for guests, for Christmas, French, gour-met, hors d'oeuvres, international, luncheon club, microwave, no-bake sweets, pasta making, plain and simple, soups and stews, vegetables, West Indian.

Etobicoke Parks and Recreation Services (626-4557): Barbecues, breadmaking, brunches, cake decorating, candy making, canning, cheesecakes, children's classes, Chinese cookery, Christmas treats, coffee tasting and blending, crepes, desserts, finger food, fish sauces and dishes, food processor, food sculpturing, fun with food, gingerbread house, gourmet-on-the-go), hors d'oeuvres, Italian, Japanese, leftovers (turkey), liqueur making, microwave, muffins, pasta, pastries, pickling, pressure cooking, quiches, souffls and omelettes, soups and casseroles, stews, tea, tots' tidbits, Ukrainian cooking.

George Brown College, Kensington Campus (967-1212, ext. 4290): Baking (basic, advanced, junior gourmet), bartending, breadmaking (with advanced professional courses), cake decoration, Chinese cuisine (Cantonese and dim sum), edible wild plants, meat cutting (and a professional meat-cutting course), pastry, vegetarian cooking, wines and spirits.

Humber College, Continuing Education Division (675-3111): Fall courses start in October. Included are garnishes (the art of vegetable carving), hors d'oeuvres ("It doesn't have to be caviar"), pat making, souffls made easy.

Network For Living (967-7640, ext. 29): This organization was established in 1977 and claims to be the largest independent educational institution in Canada. It offers courses in home beer making, basic cooking, cake decorating, chocolate, food processor, home bartending, an international winetasting tour, Japanese cooking, Northern Italian cooking, party foods, pasta, sushi, vegetarian cooking, wok cooking.

Scarborough Board of Education (439-9782): Register before Sept. 20. All courses can be classified under the gourmet heading but they are broken down into subsections, such as beginners' course, party sandwiches and finger foods, back to granny's kitchen and French classical. Three courses called simply Gourmet Cooking range in length from 10 to 20 weeks. Seneca College, 1750 Finch Ave. E. (491-5050): Bartending workshop, Chinese gourmet cooking for beginners, homebrew, introduction to good cooking, nouvelle cuisine, vegetarian cooking, wines of the world.

Cooking schools deserve a good share of the credit for the impressive way we cope in the kitchen these days.

They are helping us serve with flair everything from leftovers to pheasant. The kitchen tips they pass on at lessons are a welcome bonus. But best of all, we are able to upgrade meals quickly and easily with the recipes they pass on. The Star recently talked to seven teachers in and around Metro and asked them to share a favorite quick-and-easy recipe to help busy cooks ease back into the fall food scene. Helaine Cook's Grapefruit And Avocado Salad Helaine Cook thinks sitting and talking about food is almost as important as cooking. So she decided Hillsdale, north of Barrie, was a perfect setting for this leisurely approach to food and opened a school there after earning Le Grand Diplome at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris. There is always a three or four-course meal for the students to enjoy at the end of each class at The Courthouse School of French Cooking and this recipe is a favorite. Preparation time: 25 minutes 1 1/2 cups cooked rice 2 green onions with tops, thinly sliced 2 tsp chopped fresh parsley 2 to 3 sprigs of fresh thyme or a pinch of dried thyme 3 to 5 tbsp fresh lime juice 2 to 3 tbsp vinaigrette 1 large avocado, peeled and sliced 1 to 2 pink grapefruits, peeled and segmented

1/2 cup mayonnaise or yogurt

Shelled cooked shrimp Mix rice with onions, herbs, 2 to 3 tablespoons lime juice and vinaigrette made with 2 tablespoons oil, 1 tablespoon vinegar plus Dijon mustard, salt and pepper to taste. Spoon rice mixture on salad plates. Place alternate slices of avocado and grapefruit on rice. Thin mayonnaise or yogurt with 1 to 2 tablespoons lime juice. (The mixture should be thin enough to coat the fruit.) Spoon over sliced fruit; sprinkle each serving with a few shrimp. Makes 4 main-course salads (422 calories each) or 6 appetizer (281 calories each) servings. Birthe MacDonald's Chicken In Barbecue Sauce Birthe Marie MacDonald studied finer cooking at home in Copenhagen, Denmark. She also worked as a nurse in Denmark, Sweden, Scotland and France before opening Birthe Marie's Cooking School in Brampton. She chose this recipe because everyone loves chicken in barbecue sauce and this one is made with everyday ingredients. Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 50 to 60 minutes 1 3-lb/1.36-kg chicken cut into serving-size pieces 1 tsp salt 1 tsp granulated sugar 1 tsp ground ginger 2 tbsp vegetable oil 2 tbsp unsalted butter Sauce: 2 tbsp cider vinegar 2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 2 tbsp light soy sauce 8 tbsp tomato ketchup 1 large clove garlic, crushed 2 tsp granulated sugar 1 bay leaf

2 tsp cornstarch Preheat oven to 325 degrees F. Dry chicken on paper towel. Mix salt, sugar and ginger; sprinkle over chicken pieces. Heat oil and butter in a medium large skillet. Place chicken skin side down; brown. Turn and complete browning. Place in an oven-proof casserole large enough to hold chicken in a single layer. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the skillet. Add vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, ketchup, garlic, sugar and bay leaf. Whisk cornstarch into mixture. Bring to a boil; pour over chicken pieces. Cover and bake 50 to 60 minutes. Pour off any fat that accumulates during cooking. Serve over cooked rice or noodles with a green salad and crusty bread. Makes 6 servings, about 306 calories each with sauce. Pat Wilson's Creole Steamed Okra

Southern and creole cookery is Pat Wilson's specialty and this recipe is a family favorite. Her son and biggest fan says it is simple, delicious and can be expanded with fresh corn and chopped tomatoes. Wilson grew up in a family of talented southern-style cooks and had a catering business in New York city before opening her cooking school, The Southern And Cajun Kitchen on Bathurst St. Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes 1 1-lb (454-g) okra 2 slices chopped hickory-smoked side bacon 1 tsp butter 2 to 3 green onions or 1 small onion, chopped

1/2 to 1 clove garlic, finely chopped

3/4 to 1 cup water or chicken stock

1/2 tsp apple cider vinegar or lemon juice (optional) Pinch granulated sugar Salt and black pepper

Crushed dried red pepper Wash okra (small or medium is preferable, if large cut in half crosswise). Trim ends, drain and set aside. Heat skillet over medium heat. Add bacon and fry until crisp. Remove bacon, add 1 teaspoon butter to the bacon fat. (One tablespoon each of olive oil and butter may be used instead of bacon and butter.) Add onions and garlic; cook until soft but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add okra, water or stock and vinegar. Season with sugar, salt, pepper and red pepper. Cook covered, 10 minutes or until tender. Remove from heat; sprinkle with bacon and serve with rice and meat or fish. Makes 4 servings, about 105 calories each. Jan Main's Gingered Pears Home economist Jan Main said, "I'll give you something seasonal," when we asked her to share a recipe. Anyone who has ever wondered how to highlight pears will be delighted to see her easy solution. Main has taught hands-on seasonal menu courses to a maximum of six students per class in her own kitchen for the past seven years. She also has a personalized catering service that operates out of Jan Main's Kitchen. Preparation time: 25 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes 1 19-oz (540-mL) tin crushed or pineapple tidbits in their own juice Zest and juice from 1 orange Zest and juice from 1 lemon 6 whole cloves 1 cinnamon stick

1/4 to 1/2 cup finely diced crystallized ginger

1/4 to 1/2 cup honey or marmalade

6 pears, peeled, cored and cut in half lengthwise Combine in a stainless steel saucepan, pineapple and juice, zests, orange and lemon juice, cloves, cinnamon, ginger and honey. Bring to a boil; simmer 10 minutes. Add more honey if necessary; add pears. Simmer until tender, about 10 minutes. Baste pears often with sauce. Cool pear mixture, remove cloves and cinnamon before serving. Serve cold as a compote or fill pears with cream cheese combined with some of the pineapple-ginger mixture. Makes 6 servings, about 262 calories each. Veal Scallopini Chasseur Classes at Deborah Bond's school, Creative Food Designs, centre around entertaining. She feels no cook should be so busy that she misses out the main point of the evening, visiting with friends. So most of the recipes can be made ahead and here's a sample. Preparation time: 35 minutes Cooking time: 12 minutes 1 1/2 lb (750 g) veal scallopini All-purpose flour

1/4 cup plus 2 tbsp butter 1 large onion, finely chopped

1/4 lb (125 g) mushrooms, thinly sliced 4 to 5 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped Salt and pepper

1/4 cup finely chopped parsley Basil, rosemary, tarragon (optional) 2 tbsp vegetable oil 5 oz (141 g) Gruyere cheese, grated

1/4 cup dry white wine or dry white vermouth Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Line a shallow baking pan with a large piece of aluminum foil. Pound veal until it is very thin, coat lightly with flour. Melt 1/4 cup butter in a large saucepan. Add onion; cook until limp, about 5 minutes. Add mushrooms, cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add tomatoes and season with salt and pepper. Cook until tomatoes are soft, about 5 minutes. (A 28-oz can of plum tomatoes may replace the fresh kind.) Stir in parsley and season with other herbs if desired. Heat 2 tablespoons butter and oil in a frying pan. Cook veal 30 seconds to 1 minutes per side, or until the meat springs back when lightly touched. Transfer to baking dish, top with tomato sauce then sprinkle with Gruyere cheese. Pour wine into baking dish. Seal meat mixture with foil. Bake in the upper part of the oven for 12 minutes or until cheese has melted. Transfer to a serving platter, garnish with additional parsley. (This recipe may be prepared in the morning and held in the refrigerator until cooking time.) Serve with pasta. Makes 6 servings, about 429 calories each. Selina Valentine's Coconut Bread Selina Valentine studied Domestic Science in Trinidad and worked there for several years before coming to Toronto. Besides running Syl's International Cooking School, she decorates cakes and does some catering. This bread, made with fresh coconut, is one of her favorites. Preparation time: 35 minutes Baking time: 50 to 55 minutes 1 small coconut 1 1/2 cups water 1 1/2 cups granulated sugar 2 eggs 1 tsp vanilla 1 tsp Angostura bitters (optional) 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tbsp shortening 1 tbsp margarine or butter 4 cups all-purpose flour 4 tbsp baking powder Pinch salt

1/4 cup chopped mixed peel

1/4 cup chopped glace cherries 1 cup raisins

1 tbsp granulated sugar mixed with 1 tbsp water (glaze) Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Break coconut; remove meat from shell and cut into small pieces. Blend in a food processor or blender with 1 1/2 cups water until smooth, about 3 minutes. This should yield about 3 cups of coconut mixture. Put mixture in a large mixing bowl and add sugar, eggs, vanilla, bitters, cinnamon, shortening and butter. Beat mixture until smooth. Blend flour, baking powder and salt. Add to coconut mixture with fruit. Mix well as the dough should be soft. Pour batter into 2 greased 8 by 4-inch loaf pans. Bake 40 minutes or until loaves are almost ready. Remove from oven and brush with glaze made from sugar and water. Return to oven for 10 minutes. Cool before slicing. This bread also freezes well for up to 6 months. Makes 2 loaves, about 172 calories per 1/2-inch slice. Mary March's Mexican Salad Burlington home economist Mary March offers this recipe to all those busy cooks who need a main-course salad with a new look. The Mary March School's emphasis is on simplifying gourmet recipes, using natural and wholesome foods and making recipes more nutritious. Preparation time: 30 minutes 1 bunch romaine lettuce, shredded 2 medium tomatoes, sliced 1 small red onion, thinly sliced 1 19-oz (540-mL) can chick peas or kidney beans, drained and rinsed 6 oz (170 g) old Cheddar cheese, grated 2 cups cooked, cubed chicken or turkey (optional) 2 medium or 1 large avocado, peeled and sliced Dressing:

1/2 cup mayonnaise

3/4 cup taco sauce* 3 tbsp vegetable oil 2 tbsp lemon juice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Arrange lettuce, tomatoes, onion, chick peas, cheese and chicken on a chilled serving plate. (Layer the ingredients in a glass bowl if you prefer.) Add avocado just before serving to prevent browning. Combine ingredients for dressing. (Go easy on the taco sauce unless you like hot food.) Drizzle over salad just before servings. Makes 6 main-course servings, about 581 calories each. * Sold in Mexican food section at supermarkets. These recipes were tested in the Star test kitchen by Star home economist Mary McGrath.

PEKING - PEKING (Reuter) - One of the best parts of a meal at Peking's new Longevity Restaurant is looking for the fried ants among the seasame seeds.

The crunchy little beasts, highly recommended by the management for preventing arthritis, are just one of the attractions at the restaurant which proclaims that "medicine is food and food is medicine."

"The main difference between this restaurant and other restaurants is that every one of our dishes has medicine in it," says manager Lu Dexin. "Even the drinks and the cigarettes are medicinal."

But she admits that business is suffering because many people think the food will have the bitter taste associated with most Chinese medicines.

"We don't put much medicine in. Not enough to make the taste obvious, but enough to have a very beneficial effect."

The ants, a special large breed native to northeastern China, are jet black and prized for their medicinal qualities.

The company that runs the restaurant, the Peking Number Six Medicine Factory, ships them fried in oil and mixed with black sesame seeds. They are used to coat a walnut delicacy served toward the beginning of a meal.

The restaurant, which opened early last month, is expensive: An ordinary meal for local people costs about $3.50 a head, the equivalent of a week's salary for many workers.

But they get what are billed as dishes prepared from medicinal recipes created for the emperors of the Mongol dynasty, founded in 1271 by Kublai Khan.

Such dishes were popular with China's emperors, many of whom were obsessed with the idea of longevity and immortality, although at least one Son of Heaven died of poisoning from the very potions he hoped would prolong his life.

The Longevity Restaurant does not serve pork, the staple Chinese meat, because it is considered too fatty. It generally substitutes deer meat.

A typical meal also includes quail (good for lung complaints and shortness of breath), black chicken (improves blood circulation) and a stone-cold mixture of rice and barley, which the waitresses swore was good for the complexion.

All this is washed down with a ginseng drink and a special medicinal wine.

Got a surplus of tomatoes? Not sure what to make out of those baskets of peaches you bought for such a good price?

You can always freeze them or make relish or jam; but making a batch or two of juice is an attractive way to profit from plenty. Homemade juice is a good eye opener at breakfast and an agreeable and economical alternative to soft drinks. Try it as a base for punch or mixed drinks.

And there's an added benefit: Producing homemade juice allows you to control the amount of sugar and salt.

To preserve fruit and tomato juice you need a boiling water bath canner. Department and hardware stores are well-stocked with the navy blue granite canners at this time of year. For most household canning, the smaller canner with a rack that holds seven (500 mL/16 oz) jars is convenient, and sits comfortably on stoves.

You must also use canning jars. These are reusable, but they must not have any nicks or cracks.

The 500 mL/16 oz size is handy for juice; but, as the canning season nears the end, this size is often hard to find. Stock up now if you want to make juices later in the month. As well, check your supply of the two-piece lids. Every time you use one of these jars for canning you must use a new disc. The band can be used again and again, as long as it's not bent or rusted.

To prepare jars and lids for canning, first wash in hot soapy water, then rinse. Because the jars and contents are going to be processed in the boiling water bath, the jars do not need to be sterilized. They should, however, be warmed briefly with boiling water or in the oven. Washing and keeping warm can be done in a dishwasher. The disc part of the lid must be boiled for five minutes immediately before putting on the jars.

Fill the boiling water bath canner about half full with hot water and set over low heat to keep warm while preparing the juices. Fill jars, using a funnel, and leaving 1/2-inch headspace. Wipe off any juice that may have dribbled on to the rim, then centre the disc on the jar and screw on the band. Set each filled jar on canner rack, lower rack and add more hot water to the side of the canner until there is one inch of water over the top of the jars. Cover, bring to a full rolling boil, timing from this moment. Keep the canner boiling as hard as possible.

At the end of the processing time, raise the rack, and with tongs transfer jars to cool on a rack out of a draft. Do not turn jars upside down or tighten the bands. Let cool for 10 to 12 hours; check that the convex disc has snapped down into a concave position. Refrigerate and use the contents of any jars that have not sealed properly within a day or two. Note: A boiling water bath canner can be used to can only fruits and tomatoes. All other vegetable, seafoods and meat can be safely preserved only by freezing or using a pressure canner. Homemade Tomato Juice Juice is one of the very best ways to use up that glut of beefsteak tomatoes. Use the juice for quick healthful snacks or drinks with meals, or fancy up with lemon juice, Tabasco, freshly ground pepper and vodka, if desired, for pre-dinner cocktails. 1 4-litre basket ripe red tomatoes, about 3.2 kg/7 lb 1 1/4 tsp salt (approximate)

1 1/4 tsp citric acid (available in drug stores) or 5 tbsp reconstituted lemon juice

Prepare 5 (500 mL/16 oz) canning jars and lids according to instructions above.

Wash tomatoes thoroughly, remove cores and any blemishes. Cut tomatoes into quarters; there should be about 18 cups.

Place tomatoes in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan; crush lightly with a potato masher to create juice and set over high heat. Bring to a boil, crushing and stirring almost constantly to extract the juice, prevent burning, and to break down the tomatoes as quickly as possible. Reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Press juice through a food mill equipped with a fine disc, a sieve or a conical ricer. Wash saucepan. Return juice to pan and heat to boiling.

Pour into prepared jars, leaving 1/2-inch headspace. To each jar add 1/4 tsp salt and either 1/4 tsp citric acid or 1 tbsp reconstituted lemon juice. Seal and process in a boiling water bath for 35 minutes. Remove jars and allow to cool on a rack before testing for seals, labeling and storing away from heat, light and damp. Serve cold; shake before using. Makes 5 (500 mL/16 oz) jars, plus enough unprocessed juice to chill in the refrigerator for the cook and a friend. Peach Nectar Before peaches slip away for another year, you might like to try something new - a thick peach nectar. Serve chilled over ice with a slice of orange. Choose fragrantly ripe, juicy peaches for making into nectar. 1 4-litre basket peaches, about 2.6 kg/5 3/4 lb 4 cups water 1 tsp ascorbic acid, available in drug stores 2 tbsp lemon juice 1 1/2 cups granulated sugar

1/2 cup orange juice

Prepare 7 (500 mL/16 oz) canning jars and lids according to instructions above.

Wash peaches, pit and cut into slices about 1/2-inch thick. There should be about 20 cups of slices. In a large heavy-bottomed saucepan combine peach slices with 1 cup of water, ascorbic acid and lemon juice. Cover, bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring frequently. Reduce heat to simmer the peaches until they're tender, about 30 minutes. Pure through the fine disk of a food mill, a sieve or best of all, a conical ricer. For a smooth nectar, whirl the liquid, in two batches, in a blender.

Meanwhile, wash pan; combine sugar and remaining water in pan and bring to a boil, stirring. Add orange juice and peach pure; bring just to a simmer.

Fill jars, leaving 1/2 inch headspace. Seal and process in a boiling water bath for 15 minutes.

Let cool, check seals and label; store away from heat, light and damp.

Makes 7 (500 mL/16 oz) jars, plus enough for a frosty glass to enjoy with the last sunny rays of the season. Shake before using. Concentrated Grape Juice

Ontario blue grapes, of which the Concord is the best-known variety, make a rich-flavored deep purple juice. It's sensible to make a slightly concentrated version - fewer jars to process - and at serving time mix with sparkling or plain cold water and ice cubes. For an unsweetened juice, simply leave out the sugar. Then, when serving, add sugar, honey or a sugar substitute along with the water. 1 4-litre basket blue grapes, about 2.1 kg/4 1/2 lb 5 cups water cups granulated sugar, approximate

Prepare 5 (500 mL/16 oz) canning jars and lids according to instructions above.

Rinse grapes, remove from stems, and measure. There should be about 12 cups. Place in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan with the water. Cover, bring to a gentle boil and immediately reduce heat to simmer until grapes are very tender, about 30 minutes. Strain through a colander lined with a double thickness of rinsed fine cheesecloth, or through a dampened jelly bag. Press grapes to extract all the juice possible. Wash saucepan; measure juice.

Return grapes to saucepan, adding 1 tablespoon sugar per cup juice. Bring to a simmer; taste and add more sugar if desired. Immediately pour into prepared jars, leaving 1/2 inch headspace. Seal and process in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Remove and cool before checking seals, labeling and setting in a cool, dark and dry place for storage.

Good buys on peppers and tomatoes at the supermarket will come in handy for giving ground beef a boost this week. And here's a recipe from The Victory Garden Cookbook (Random House, $25.95) to help. Chili-Stuffed Peppers 6 large sweet peppers Salt and pepper 1 to 2 small hot peppers (optional) 2 tbsp vegetable oil 1 1/2 cups chopped onions 1 1/2 cup chopped sweet peppers 1 to 2 tsp chopped garlic 1 lb (500 g) ground beef 1 1/2 to 2 cups seeded and chopped tomatoes 1 tbsp chili powder 1 tsp granulated sugar 2 cups cooked kidney beans

1 cup grated Cheddar cheese (optional)

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Cut tops off peppers and set aside. Part of them may be chopped and used in the filling. (If peppers are irregularly shaped and might topple, halve them lengthwise). Scoop out insides with a sharp-edged spoon. Blanch in boiling water for 3 to 5 minutes. Remove and chill in cold water. Drain well and pat dry before stuffing. Season cases with pepper and salt before filling.

Clean and finely chop hot pepper. In a large frying pan, heat oil and add onions, chopped sweet and hot pepper. Cook until wilted and softened. Stir in garlic; cook 30 seconds. Push vegetables to one side and lightly brown beef. Pour fat from pan. Stir in tomatoes, chili powder and sugar. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Cover pan and cook 5 minutes. Add kidney beans; cook slowly 15 to 20 minutes or until thickened. Taste again for seasoning.

Oil baking dish. Fill pepper shells with meat mixture. Top with cheese. Bake 20 minutes or until heated through. (To make a Spanish-style stuffing: omit beans and add 1/2 cup raisins, 1/4 cup chopped stuffed olives and 1/2 cup toasted almonds or pine nuts. Season with cinnamon and cloves. Add cooked rice if desired). Makes 6 servings.

TRENTON - TRENTON (CP) - Stouffer's Food Canada says it will undertake a $13 million expansion of its Trenton frozen food plant, creating 130 new jobs by next summer.

The expansion, aided by an incentive loan of $2.5 million from the provincial government, will also yield benefits to the agriculture industry supplying the plant, the company said yesterday.

Ontario Industry Minister Hugh O'Neil, also the local member of the Legislature, said it is estimated the company "will require 4.3 million pounds (1.95 million kilograms) of Ontario raw products over the next two years to meet projected sales."

The plant, which now has 170 full-time employees, uses cheese, meat and numerous other agricultural commodities to produce the entire line of Stouffer products.

Bob Bishop, president of Stouffer's Food Canada, a division of Nestle Enterprises Ltd., said the company's domestic and export sales are expected to increase significantly as a result of the expansion.

The plant supplies all of the Canadian retail market as well as exporting its products to Britain.

The Penelope enjoys a glittering location across the street from the O'Keefe Centre, on Front Street's new restaurant row. It's decorated in the Greek Island style - white stucco, arches, hanging rustic tapestries and wooden beams. Outside the spacious restaurant there are plenty of tables for those inclined to watch the strolling theatre-goers.

The basic Greek fare is good but with some odd flaws. The cold appetizers plate ($5.95) is enough for two or three. It includes zadziki (a yogurt dip with shreds of garlic), taramasalata (a smooth fish roe dip), succulent marinated octopus and feta cheese. It also includes an eggplant dip (melizanasalata) creamed beyond recognition, and gray hard tomatoes. Why? The St. Lawrence Market, now bursting with summer vegetables, is just down the street.

Delicately fried zucchini accompanied by a potato-based garlic dip (kolokithia me skordalia) is common in Greece but rare in Toronto. Penelope's version is worth trying, especially if you're a brazen garlic lover ($4.95).

As an entree, my companion tried the garithes gouvetsi ($11.95) and found the baked shrimp tender and the tomato sauce light. The crust of feta cheese was an appealing touch. Biftekia ($8.95) is basically chopped meat. Grilled and enhanced by parsley, basil and onion, it can be mouthwatering. The Penelope's biftekia, however, is marred by the mealy presence of too many bread crumbs. (Fortunately, in Greece they still haven't heard of hamburger helper.) It was served with boiled potatoes, rice and eggplant.

For dessert my companion chose a nut-filled baklava ($2.25). My galaktabouriko ($1.95) was a refreshing lemon scented custard, covered by thin filo pastry. With a litre of Greek wine ($12.50), tax and tip, our bill came to $55.90. - Jacqueline Swartz 33 Yonge St.

Front and Scott Street, 947-1159. Seats 100 inside, 80 outside. Full licence, major credit cards, wheelchair access, no smoking section, reservations necessary. Open Monday through Friday noon to midnight, Saturday 5 p.m. to midnight, closed Sunday. Appetizers $3.50-$5.00, Entrees $10-$15.

The Star's daily restaurant review

TABLE FOR TWO Penelope 33 Yonge St. (entrance on Front St.) 947-1159 Greek cuisine; seats 100 inside, 80 outside; entrees $10 to $15; fully licensed; open noon to midnight Monday to Friday, 5 p.m. to midnight Saturday, closed Sunday; wheelchair access to washrooms; non-smoking section; reservations recommended; takes major credit cards.

Retailer Shelagh Vansittart has simplified her approach to fashion and furniture. The tall, lightly tanned owner of Shelagh's Homefurnishings on Hazelton Ave. used to try out unusual hair trends, ethnic jewelry and clothing she discovered on furniture buying trips around the world. "Now I only follow styles if I think they suit me."

Winnipeg-born Vansittart modelled for department stores in the '50s to earn money to travel on buying trips. She opened her store, Shelagh's Homefurnishings, in 1954. Vansittart stocks little merchandise now. She works with furniture and upholstery companies that provide custom service.

Here are her fashion and beauty philosophies:

Skin care: Cold water in the morning, Nivea cream at night and 10 minutes of facial exercises help Vansittart maintain her healthy complexion. She used to have facial massages when she travelled to the Orient on buying trips.

Vansittart is fortunate she never believed in sun worshipping. "I never thought it was a good idea to get a tan. It's very leathery looking." She always wears sunscreen when riding or skiing.

Makeup: "I wear tan makeup now instead of having a tan," says Vansittart, who sponges on Shiseido moisture mist streak foundation.

Her five-minute morning makeup routine includes accenting her hazel eyes with blue/green eye shadow and Revlon's black mascara. "Even when I don't wear anything on my face, I always wear eye makeup."

For a satisfactory scent, she mixes Bill Blass perfume with Diorissimo.

Hair: Ten years ago, Vinsittart switched from smooth hair to her current curly look. She washes her fine hair once a week with Breck shampoo for dry hair and sometimes uses L'Oreal's conditioner. She colors her own hair with L'Oreal's medium hair color product.

Hairdresser William Saab gives Vansittart a manageable hair cut. She styles it at home with a hair dryer and Braun's butane curling wand. "I use hot hair appliances as little as possible. My hair stays in place unless it rains."

She thinks her wavy hairstyle is better suited to the bold-shouldered look in fashion.

Fashion: "I don't believe in dressing to age," says Vansittart, who declined to give her own age. Since she has maintained her slim figure through exercise, she enjoys wearing stylish clothes.

Her wardrobe includes a Bedouin dress, a Japanese wedding kimono and three embroidered pyjama sets from China.

She wears classic clothes for formal occasions. A favorite outfit features white slacks, a bold-shouldered jacket and diamante earrings.

In the '60s, her interest in foreign fashions was displayed at her own dress store, Shelagh's in Lothian Mews. The store carried international styles including Indonesian sarongs, Mexican bridal dresses sold as party wear and ponchos from Guatemala.

Vansittart was critical of last year's art-inspired sweaters fad. "I prefer elegance. Art sweaters aren't elegant. When I buy a sweater, I look for texture and color."

She does find elegance in her Pucci silk blouses from the '50s that she wears over T-shirts. "They're works of art. I find them more classic than most clothes."

Fitness: "I do most of my exercises while I'm doing something else like watching television," says Vansittart, whose international athletic activities include climbing the Matterhorn and a week-long trek in Nepal.

Her 10-minute daily workout routine includes arms circles, leg lifts and 20 situps to strengthen her abdominal muscles. When she has to shape up for skiing, she does 100 deep knee bends while brushing her teeth.

Diet: "I think that the older you get, the less you have to eat. I'm not burning many calories in my job." Vansittart, who is 5 feet, 8 inches and weighs 130 pounds, doesn't always follow regular meal patterns. "I only eat when I'm hungry."

She was a vegetarian for three years during her 20s but has switched back to meat and poultry. "It was too hard to raise my family as a vegetarian. My husband thought I was crazy."

When she gets an occasional craving for sweets, she snacks on Dare cookies or Laura Secord's pecan roll.

ESKIMO POINT, N.W.T. - ESKIMO POINT, N.W.T. - Dressing up in caribou-skin hunting clothing and camping in an igloo may not be everyone's dream vacation, but tourism outfitters here are banking on the adventurism of a few.

Three outfitters are offering packages which promise to give the uninitiated a taste of traditional Inuit life and a glimpse of the tundra's spectacular beauty.

The taste includes food: arctic char, caribou stew and muktuk, which is whale blubber. Regular southern Canadian fare, such as roast beef, is available for the timid. The packages range from one-day excursions to several nights of camping. The outfitters will adapt the packages to suit different tastes and pocketbooks.

The day trips are popular with tourists spending a few days in nearby Churchill, Man. More than 700 are expected to fly to Eskimo Point, a thriving Inuit community of about 1,000 on the west coast of Hudson Bay, for the day tour offered by Don Baker.

The tour, which usually costs about $65 a person depending on the size of the group, includes a traditional meal and a chance to try Inuit drum dancing.

Visitors are taken to the Inuit Cultural Institute, where they see a slide show and learn of Inuit customs, culture and language. Each person is taught how to write his name in Inuktitut syllabics.

"In Churchill they call this a side trip, but in Eskimo Point we say this is the highlight of the trip," Baker said.

Eskimo Point is an intriguing place. A visitor walking through the community might stop and chat with a woman scraping a sealskin on her porch or an artist carving from a block of soapstone.

The hamlet also has the distinction of having more independent businesses than any other community in the Keewatin region and people in Eskimo Point are known for their business acumen.

Besides its rich culture the area is teeming with wildlife. Not surprisingly, nature and the Inuit way of life are selling points for tourism operators.

Depending on the season visitors may see caribou, polar bear, beluga whales, seals, arctic fox or wolves.

Canada geese and snow geese nest every spring on the tundra about 20 kilometres from the community. For about six weeks each summer a few of the 260,000 geese walk into the hamlet, where they remain for the molting season.

The packages offered by Baker and local Inuit outfitters Mark Kalluak and Guy Alikut vary in price and length.

Baker and Kallauk, who work together, offer four different camping packages. On one fishing excursion, guests fish for lake trout after chopping a hole through about two metres of ice using an Inuit snow-knife and spoon. If snow conditions are correct they are shown how to build an igloo, which they may sleep in if they wish.

The most arduous trip takes in three nights of camping along the Maguse River by freighter canoe. Two guides, one stationed at the front of the boat to help navigate the rapids, take visitors through some of the most beautiful scenery in the region.

"This trip is for the hardier, more adventurous kind of person," Baker said. "There's a lot more work involved."

The Maguse River trip is also the most expensive. The six-day package costs $1,995 a person, not including airfare. The other packages cost $1,395.

All three outfitters offer strips to Sentry Island, a historic site which has tent rings, kayak rests and meat caches used by ancient Inuit. Other historic sites visited are an old Anglican mission and an abandoned trading post.

Alikut, who charges a flat rate of $175 a day, will provide hunting clothing made of caribou fur or modern down-filled clothes.

"I provide everything," Alikut said. "All the guest has to bring is a camera, lots of film and a toothbrush."

YELLOWKNIFE, N.W.T. - YELLOWKNIFE, N.W.T. (CP) - Archeology sites along the Mackenzie River are being steadily washed away, taking with them the only evidence of a unique Inuit culture, says archeologist Chuck Arnold.

Ten years from now 98 per cent of the sites will have disappeared, Arnold, senior archeologist with the Prince of Wales Heritage Centre, said.

"We can't excavate them all, but we hope to excavate a large number to find out what is being lost," he said.

There are no written or anthropological records of the Siglit people, an inland group whose way of life differed significantly from that of other Inuit. Between 2,000 and 4,000 Siglit lived along the Mackenzie River before they were wiped out by disease in the 1800s, Arnold said.

"Virtually nothing is known about pre-history in the area," he said.

Arnold has worked in the area around Tuktoyaktuk - in Canada's far northwest corner - and Fort Norman, a community about 650 kilometres to the south, for the last three summers.

His crew has found remains of a city called Gupuk, in which the houses were made of driftwood and covered with sod.

The houses show that unlike other Inuit, who lived in snow houses on the sea to hunt seals, the Siglit lived on land. Siglit villages also were considerably larger. A community of 100 would be considered large for other Inuit, but small for the Siglit, whose villages usually numbered between 400 and 600.

The Siglit were a whaling people who made a base at the mouth of the river to hunt the rich beluga population. As the whales made their way into shallow water up to 300 kayaks of hunters would spear them.

After the hunt people would stay in the area long enough to dry the meat and store it in caches before roaming elsewhere to hunt and fish for the rest of the summer. In the winter they would return to the driftwood houses and live off the larder built up during the summer.

Arnold guesses that Gupuk, about 45 kilometres upstream from Tuktoyaktuk, was occupied as early as the 1600s. The inhabitants of the city and others further downstream were all but exterminated by a series of diseases in the 1800s.

Inuit from Alaska and other parts of the Canadian Arctic moved into the area and their culture swamped that of the Siglit, he said.

Gupuk was one of the latest settlements and most of the remains of the city already have been washed away.

Seven other sites along the Mackenzie River have disappeared, as well as several more in the Tuktoyaktuk area. A few smaller sites also have been lost, he said.

NEW YORK - NEW YORK - Fear of AIDS is spreading more rapidly than the disease itself, as headlines in a hundred languages around the world warn of a new "Black Death."

Acquired immune deficiency syndrome - for which there is no known cure - has us running scared.

Nations are coping with the disease in various ways: Some, like China, have banned blood imports as a precautionary measure; others, like Zaire, have simply closed their eyes, refusing to admit the disease exists.

Reasons for the latter range from ideology, as in Iran and the Soviet Union, to fear of harming tourism, as in Kenya.

Students barred Nowhere is fear of the deadly viral disease more rampant than in the United States, which has most of the world's 14,000 known cases. Expressions of that fear are reported daily: * Children with AIDS are barred from classes in several states; * A Manhattan priest scolds his parish for lacking Christian charity in refusing to approve an AIDS hospice; * Sheriffs' deputies in Stamford, Conn., don rubber gloves to escort a murder suspect with AIDS into court and 14 jurors ask to be excused from hearing the case.

Health workers talk of a panic that has isolated victims and broken up families, creating fears not only in the groups at greatest risk of contracting the disease - homosexuals and intravenous drug users - but in the population at large.

Canada is not removed from the hysteria.

This country has recorded 299 cases of AIDS - 264 men, 17 women, 10 boys and 8 girls. So far, eight of the children and 140 of the adults have died.

Ontario has registered 121 cases of Canada's total; of these 50 have died and 71 remain alive.

Medical experts call AIDS the "Black Death" of the 20th century, even though, unlike the bubonic plague, it is not an airborne disease but one relatively difficult to transmit.

The bubonic plague killed only 40 per cent of its victims; AIDS, given time, claims 100 per cent.

"It is already as serious and devastating a scourge as I can name in memory," says Dr. Anthony Fauci, head of the U.S. National Institute of Allergy and Infectious Diseases.

Changing lifestyle

Heterosexuals, who account for only 1 per cent of AIDS victims in the United States, talk of changing their lifestyles and increasingly avoid contact with homosexual men, who make up 73 per cent of all U.S. cases.

Statistics fuel the fear. AIDS has become the biggest single killer of unmarried men aged between 25 and 44 in San Francisco and New York city. Murder is second.

AIDS, which renders the body's immune system powerless to fight infections, is transmitted primarily through sexual contact when semen containing the virus enters the blood stream. It can also be contracted through donated blood or contaminated needles. The ailment may then take two to six years to develop.

In San Francisco, often called "the gay capital of the United States," a survey of 500 homosexual and bisexual men found that fear of the disease had changed their sex lives.

They said their number of sexual contacts fell to 1.2 a month and only one in five said he had sexual contact with a man other than his primary sexual partner in the past 30 days.

Although the disease largely hits homosexuals in the United States and Europe, the major victims in central Africa, where the virus is believed to have started and is rampant, are heterosexuals.

Scientists theorize the disease began in monkeys and spread to humans through bites or consumption of monkey meat.

Meanwhile, fears about the disease grow. In France, doctors say they have isolated a new disease called "AIDS psychosis."

Worried officials in Sweden, which has 27 reported AIDS cases compared to more than 12,000 in the United States, distributed a brochure this summer to overseas-bound tourists. It carried a simple warning: Never Love a Stranger.

Newspapers in Uganda report hundreds of AIDS deaths in the past five years and the largely superstitious rural folk believe AIDS is witchcraft.

Other countries Here is how AIDS is being handled in some other countries: * Soviet Union: The disease is almost ignored by the press and most people are unaware it exists. A July 21 article in the paper Moscow Truth reported the disease had spread to all continents, but made no mention of Soviet cases; * Brazil: With 415 reported cases, Brazil has the largest number of victims of any Latin American country, but its health ministry recently rejected calls for mandatory testing of blood donations for the AIDS virus, saying that existing tests were not accurate enough; * West Germany: With 250 known cases, doctors are recommending monogamy and even chastity as the best protection, an imposed morality that prompted one doctor to call AIDS "a fascist illness;" * East Germany: Although there have been no known cases, East Germany has set up a committee to monitor AIDS, believing it is only a matter of time before the disease appears; * Egypt: The government is considering blood tests for all arrivals from the United States and other countries, and is instructing its embassies to issue visas only to those with certificates proving they do not have the disease; * Australia: Fears have increased in the past two months after three Sydney women developed AIDS antibodies through artificial insemination. Now all blood, sperm and organ donors must sign legally binding declarations that they are not in the high-risk group.

John MacRae, who almost missed kidney transplant surgery last month, is now feeling "sensational, just sensational."

"I just feel so fortunate," MacRae said yesterday, recalling how he was notified in the nick of time that a kidney was finally available.

The 42-year-old Willowdale man was at the Canadian National Exhibition Aug. 29 when 40 Metro police officers, plus dozens of security officers and midway hawkers, mounted a 2 1/2-hour search for him.

If a couple more hours had passed, Toronto General Hospital would have contacted the next recipient on its waiting list. Instead, MacRae was found and received his kidney early the next day.

"No comparison'

"When I was wandering around the Ex, I had no indication I'd get a kidney for another five years," said MacRae, who for five years had to undergo kidney dialysis treatments three times a week.

In a hospital interview yesterday, MacRae counted his blessings and looked forward to enjoying the pleasures most people take for granted.

"There's no comparison between being a dialysis patient and having a kidney that functions," he said.

MacRae has been able to abandon a strict diet, under which "I basically lived on sandwiches, just plain meat sandwiches."

Now, he exulted, "I can eat whatever I want."

But he's waiting to be released before indulging his passion for peanut butter.

MacRae said he wants his first taste of that treat to be just right.

Take it easy

"When I get home, I'm going to get a fresh loaf of bread and some real good peanut butter. This is something I haven't had for five years . . . just like chips and vinegar."

MacRae said he hasn't been told when he'll be released and "I'm not pressing - I've waited a long time for this."

Once back at his Antibes Drive home, MacRae will have to take it easy for a while.

"The first year, I'm on a lot of drugs and I'm wide open to infection," he said. "I don't imagine I'll be out seeking a job for at least eight months. They say you need at least one year before you're sure you're going to keep the kidney for any length of time."

Regular job

A regular job is something MacRae, a former bartender and food and beverage manager, desperately wants.

"I'm jealous of those people who work 9 to 5," MacRae said. He's been living on about $500 a month in government assistance since going on dialysis treatment.

Within a couple of years, when he's "a normal human being and earning a dollar," he wants to wed Heather Peterson, his girlfriend of 13 years.

Although MacRae is feeling fine - "The way they look after you at this hospital you can't go wrong" - he hopes people will remember those still undergoing dialysis.

"I want people to recognize the need to sign those driver's licence (organ donation forms)," he said. "You give a person a second chance at life."

When Sam Hunter eats hot food, he doesn't mess around: "I had eaten a couple of one-pound chile relleno burritos that were so hot they drained my sinuses, scalded my throat, and temporarily turned the tendons in my elbows and knees to water."

This chili recipe from author L.A. Morse is great, but be warned: The version prepared in The Star Test Kitchen was too hot for some of our testers. Sam, on the other hand, would probably have found it mild.

Morse has different types of chilies sent to him from California, Mexico and New York by friends. Most of the chilies are not available here. The recipe he provided called for 2 tablespoons of mild California chili powder, 1 tablespoon of hotter New Mexico chili powder, 1 tablespoon each of ground (dried) ancho, pasilla and mulato peppers, a chili de arbol to taste, and 3 canned chipolte chilies finely chopped. Each chili lends a distinctive taste and aroma to the dish, says Morse. Star home economist Mary McGrath adapted Morse's recipe, however, using chilies available in Toronto, and her version follows. Morse tasted McGrath's version last week, raised his eyebrows, smiled, and pronounced it excellent and very close to his own. Sam Hunter's Killer Chili Preparation time: 40 minutes Cooking time: 90 minutes plus reheating time Chilling time: Overnight 2 lb (1 kg) boneless stewing beef Olive or vegetable oil 2 to 3 cups chopped onions 1 whole head garlic, finely chopped 3 tbsp mild Mexican chili powder 2 tbsp each: ground pasilla and chipolte chilies 1 tbsp ground red chilies Salt and pepper 5 tbsp ground cumin 1 1/2 tsp celery seeds 1 to 2 tbsp all-purpose flour or masa harina 1 28-oz (796-mL) can Italian plum tomatoes Grated Jack or brick cheese

Salsa Cruda (recipe follows) Trim any excess fat from beef, cut in 1-inch cubes. Brown meat in 2 to 3 tablespoons of hot oil. Add onion and garlic, cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add chili powder and ground chilies. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in cumin, celery seeds and flour; cook 5 minutes. Gradually add tomatoes and juice to desired consistency. Simmer covered, 90 minutes or until beef is tender, stirring often. Cool to room temperature and refrigerate overnight.

Serve very hot. Top with cheese and serve with cornbread or garlic bread and Salsa Cruda. Makes 8 servings. Salsa Cruda "The name means "raw sauce' but it is really more like a salad and is the perfect accompaniment for a spicy Latin American stew, tacos, or grilled or barbecued meat," says L. A. Morse." Preparation time: 15 minutes Chilling time: 1 hour 3 to 4 large ripe tomatoes, peeled and coarsely chopped 1 medium onion, chopped

1/2 bunch fresh cilantro, coarsely chopped 3 to 4 pickled serrano or jalapeno peppers, chopped 1 tbsp vinegar

Salt and pepper Mix all ingredients and refrigerate an hour before serving. (Canned jalapenos may be used instead of the pickled kind.) Makes 6 servings. Chile Verde "The classic Mexican Chile Verde uses tomatillos - Mexican green tomatoes," Morse says. "But in Ontario, cans of tomatillos are either impossible to find or outrageously expensive. This variation eliminates the tomatillos but sacrifices none of the flavor. Fresh coriander gives a Chile Verde color and distinctive taste." Coriander can usually be found at Asian grocery stores. It's also known as Chinese parsley and cilantro. "A true green chili uses pork but chicken or lamb will work equally well in this recipe." Preparation time: 25 minutes Cooking time: 40 to 50 minutes 2 lbs (1 kg) boneless pork Olive or vegetable oil 1 large bunch fresh coriander 1 whole head of garlic 2 or 3 hot green chiles, fresh or canned 2 large onions, finely chopped

1/4 cup orange juice

1/4 cup lemon juice Salt and freshly ground pepper

Water

Trim any fat from pork; cut into 1-inch cubes. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a heavy saucepan. Add pork cubes; cook until brown on all sides, about 5 minutes. Remove pork with a slotted spoon. Pure coriander (about 2 cups), sliced garlic cloves and chopped chilis in a food processor. Add more oil to saucepan if necessary. Add coriander mixture and cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Add onions, cook 2 minutes. Stir pork into onion mixture. Add orange juice, lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste and enough water to prevent pork from sticking to the bottom of the saucepan. Simmer until pork is tender, about 30 to 40 minutes. Serve with rice or steamed potatoes. Makes 6 servings. Pozole

"One thing I learned . . being broke," says 78-year-old Jake Spanner in The Old Dick. "I'd . . . learned to cook up a storm using spare parts, the kind of stuff that ordinarily went into pet food." Pozole is one very inexpensive dish using "spare parts" but the taste is hardly pet food. "It's truly a one-dish meal," says Morse, "with soup, meat, beans or corn, and salad all in one bowl. It requires very little preparation time, but like many good stews, quite a lot of cooking time." Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 4 hours 3 lbs (1.36 kg) pork hocks and/or pork necks 2 lbs (1 kg) chicken backs 4 large onions, coarsely chopped 10 peeled garlic cloves 1 tsp salt 25 whole peppercorns Water (about 10 cups) 1 lb (500 g) pork shoulder, cut into one-inch cubes 1 19-oz (540-mL) can hominy or chick peas (garbanzos), drained and rinsed 1 onion coarsely chopped 6 radishes, coarsely chopped

1/2 head iceberg lettuce, coarsely chopped 1 lime, cut into quarters Dried oregano, to taste

Ground chili powder, to taste

Combine the first seven ingredients in a large heavy pot (water should just cover everything), bring to a boil, cover, reduce heat, and simmer three hours, skimming the fat from the stock periodically. Remove pork and chicken, pick meat clean of bones and fat and reserve. To the stock add the pork shoulder cubes, bring back to a boil, reduce heat and simmer 40 minutes or until pork is tender. Add hominy or chick peas and the reserved meats. Simmer 10 minutes longer.

To serve, put generous amounts of the pozole into large bowls. Each diner, to his or her taste, puts in the chopped onion, radishes and lettuce, a squeeze of lime and a sprinkle of oregano and chili powder.

Crisply fried tortilla chips can be eaten with the pozole or dropped into the stew like croutons. Serves four hearty appetites. Quesadillas

"Queso is Spanish for cheese and quesadillas are the Mexican equivalent of a grilled cheese sandwich," says Morse. "Quick and easy to prepare, quesadillas make a great snack or first course with drinks, although Sam Hunter has been known to have them for breakfast." Warning: These are so good they're addictive. Flour tortillas are available frozen in specialty stores, about 12 to a package, and work better than corn tortillas. We found them - and all the chilies we needed - at the House Of Spice in Kensington Market. Morse recommends using canned jalapeno chilies or roasted and peeled fresh jalapeno chilies, but we used 12 pickled jalapenos straight from a jar bought at the supermarket. Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 3 minutes each 12 flour tortillas

1/2 lb Brick cheese (or Monterey Jack), grated 12 jalapeno chilis

Oil for frying

Get enough cheese to cover half a tortilla. Sprinkle 1 chopped jalapeno on the cheese. Fold tortilla over (makes a half moon). Just cover the bottom of a skillet or fry pan with oil and heat. Fry tortilla on one side until golden brown, about 1 1/2 minutes (but be careful; they brown very quickly and burn easily). Turn and brown other side. Remove. Cut into three or four slices for finger food. Makes 12 servings.

All recipes except the pozole and quesadillas were tested in the Star test kitchen by Star home economist Mary McGrath. The pozole and quesadillas were tested by food writer David Kingsmill.

If warm rhubarb squares with ice cream sound good, this recipe is for you. Mrs. V. M. McKinley of Woodbridge sent a copy after she read Mrs. Ardill's request. The recipe is from one of the Mennonite cookbooks in her collection. Rhubarb Squares Crust: 1 cup sifted all-purpose flour

3/4 cup rolled oats 1 cup brown sugar, packed

1/2 cup melted butter 1 tsp ground cinnamon Filling: 4 cups diced rhubarb 1 cup granulated sugar 2 tbsp cornstarch 1 cup water

1 tsp vanilla Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees F. Mix ingredients for crust until crumbly. Press half into a greased 9-inch square baking pan. Top with rhubarb. Combine sugar, cornstarch, water and vanilla. Cook until thick and clear, pour over rhubarb. Sprinkle with remaining crumbs. Bake 35 to 40 minutes. Cut in squares while still warm. Serve plain or with ice cream. Makes 8 servings. Tamale Pie The price of tomatoes and peppers has never been better, so this recipe for Nellie Marshall is well-timed. 3 cups water 3 1/2 tsp salt 1 cup cornmeal 3 tbsp shortening 1 medium onion, chopped 1 small green pepper, chopped 1 lb ground steak

1/2 tsp chili powder

4 medium tomatoes, sliced

Pre-heat oven to 375 degrees F. Add 1 1/2 teaspoons salt to water, bring to a boil. Slowly add cornmeal in a steady stream, stirring constantly. Cook over low heat, stirring often, for 10 minutes. Remove from heat.

Melt shortening in a frying pan, add onion and pepper, cooking until limp but not brown. Add ground meat and cook until brown. Stir in chili powder and remaining salt. Remove from heat. Spread half the cornmeal mixture over the bottom of a medium-sized casserole. Cover with a layer of tomatoes, then add all the meat mixture. Add remaining cornmeal; top with remaining tomatoes. Bake 25 minutes. Makes 4 servings. Brenda Wain's Cheese Bread Cheese bread is a big seller at bakeries these days and if A. Norris wants a recipe that uses yeast, here's one Brenda Wain of Hamilton likes to make. 2 tsp granulated sugar

1/2 cup warm water 2 packages active dry yeast 2 tbsp granulated sugar 1 tbsp soft shortening 2 tsp salt 2 cups scalded milk 2 1/2 cups grated old Cheddar cheese 6 cups all-purpose flour 1 tsp dry mustard

1/2 tsp paprika Melted butter

1/4 cup grated old Cheddar cheese

Dissolve 2 teaspoons sugar in water, then sprinkle yeast over top and let stand 10 minutes. Stir well.

Add 2 tablespoons sugar, shortening and salt to hot milk. Stir to dissolve. Pour into a large bowl, add 2 1/2 cups cheese, stir and cool to lukewarm. Stir in yeast mixture.

Sift about half the flour with mustard and paprika. Blend with cheese and yeast mixture. Beat well with a wooden spoon. Add enough remaining flour to make a soft dough, mixing well with hands. Turn out on to a floured surface. Knead until smooth and small bubbles appear under the surface. Form into a ball, put in a greased bowl and cover with a damp cloth. Let rise until double in volume, about 1 hour.

Punch down, let rise again until double in volume, about 30 minutes.

Punch down; divide into two equal parts. Shape into loaves and put in two greased 9- by 5-inch loaf pans. Brush with melted butter. Let rise until double in volume, about 1 hour. Bake in a pre-heated 375 degree F oven for 40 to 50 minutes or until the loaves sound hollow when tapped. Cover loaves loosely with aluminum foil if they start to brown too much on top. Remove from oven, brush tops with melted butter and sprinkle with 1/4 cup grated cheese. Return to oven just long enough to melt cheese. Turn loaves out on racks to cool.

These recipes are not tested in The Star kitchen. Send requests and recipes to Recipe Exchange, Star Test Kitchen, Toronto Star, One Yonge St., Toronto M5E 1E6. We regret that requests cannot be taken over the phone and that letters cannot receive a personal reply.

PARIS - PARIS (Reuter) - A battle has broken out in the great kitchens of France as traditionalists accuse Nouvelle Cuisine chefs of bastardizing the fine cooking that was once the nation's pride.

For the past 20 years, critics have jeered at the elaborate concoctions dished up by the new school of culinary masters. With statistics showing that more than 100 French eating places go out of business each month, they are also holding the young chefs responsible for the demise of the old-fashioned bistro.

Not so, says the man known to the public as the high priest of La Nouvelle Cuisine, food critic Christian Millau.

"This is just an old-fashioned attitude, typical of people obsessed with the past who refuse to look toward the future," he says.

An economic reporter turned gourmet, Millau brought the Nouvelle Cuisine concept of easily digested food to the public eye in 1969, when he launched the Gault-Millau guide of gastronomy.

The upwardly mobile Frenchman's bible to good living - which also appears as a glossy monthly magazine - the guide directed a steady stream of abuse against the fattening gravies and large portions served by traditional French chefs.

Instead, Millau sang the praises of a new breed of cooks creating light digestible dishes that attempted to bring out an ingredient's natural flavor rather than swamp it in sauce.

But the changing face of the French food landscape recently prompted the press to turn on the man who gave international reputations to chefs such as Michel Guerard and Alain Senderens.

In a cover story titled "The Assassins of French Cuisine," the weekly magazine Le Nouvel Observateur said Millau's infatuation with what it described as a pompous, over-rated and over-priced cuisine was corrupting the art of fine food.

The minute portions of barely baked vegetables dished up with thin slices of meat on king-size plates that described itself as Nouvelle Cuisine were a trickery and a fraud, it said.

The recipes were designed for a new class of young, body-conscious and sharp-toothed executives "who leave the table hungry enough to devour their fellows," it said.

Traditional gourmets sneer at such dishes as carrot and kiwi fruit salad, vanilla-steamed lobster, pike with rhubarb sauce, or crumbed macaroni with cheese and gooseberry jelly.

Says Millau: "They jeer Nouvelle Cuisine chefs for stewing duck in mango sauce. But it's no more outrageous than duck with peach or "a l'orange,', an old recipe that enraged the critics 200 years ago when the orange first came to Europe.

"I didn't invent Nouvelle Cuisine, I simply gave a name to a new style of cooking born in the sixties, the same way someone invented the word "impressionist' for a new school of art.

"The French were recovering from the austerity of the war. They were sick of the heavy traditional foods, the dusty restaurants. They wanted an easily digestible cuisine and cheery restaurants where eating out was like going to the theatre."

This is what traditionalists reject, saying the new chefs put more emphasis on ostentatious crockery and decor than on the quality of their food, where color and presentation are all.

Millau's success in attracting people with money to such restaurants has aggravated the growing financial difficulties faced by the small family bistro, Le Nouvel Observateur said.

But Millau says the death of the bistros is the result of economically hard times, the increasing horde of tax inspectors and the problems of small family businesses in a modern world where children often refuse to take over a struggling enterprise from their parents. "The old breed of restaurant, where the wife did the cooking, the children served table and the buying was done on the sly, may have had its charm but it belongs to another age," he says. "These are times of change. It's no use crying over spilled milk and accusing the Nouvelle Cuisine chefs."

Think of tiny, crisp and mild pearl onions as a labor of love. The labor is in the peeling, and you only bother for people you love. A lot.

All silvery white with papery skins, they make a brief early fall appearance at greengrocers and farmers' markets. They're favorites with picklers, and I presume they're the ones who snap them all up.

In any case, if you like these onions and you're a wise cook, you'll buy your supply now. Otherwise, when the mesh bags of reasonably priced pearl disappear, and you want a pound or two to garnish a roast or add to a beef stew, you'll be out of luck. You may have to resort to the imported boxes of pearl onions, priced just below the jewel that gives them their name.

All gardeners will know how we get these tiny onions, but for the non-gardeners, here's how they come to be.

Growing large onions, the kind we chop up for general cooking, is a two-year proposition. The first year, the seeds are sown and the bulbs harvested when they're about 3/4-inch in diameter. These are the pearls. The onions are dried and stored until the next spring. They go into the ground early, to emerge as the 3- to 4-inch cooking bulbs that last us all winter. These do not make elegant cocktail onions.

There's no reason why all tiny onions have to be the white variety. It's just that the white are popular with pickle manufacturers. Recently yellow and red "pearls" have appeared on the market and they are attractive cooked and in pickles. Here are a few dishes to try with the pearls while they're cheap and abundant.

Peeling small onions

Think about this task as you choose your onions. The tinier the onions, the longer they take to peel. Naturally, the tinier, the better. Boiling water, however, does help. Place onions in a heatproof container - a large metal bowl is ideal - and cover with boiling water. Let stand one minute. Drain and refresh under cold water. With a sharp knife, start to peel off the thin outer skin. It's considered cheating if you cut into the first thick layer to make the job easier, but that's up to your conscience. As with all these time-consuming tasks, it's a good idea to enlist loved ones. How long they'll love you when you ask them to peel a bag of pearl onions is another matter. Pearl Onions And Brussels Sprouts Keep this attractive and tasty duo in mind for your Thanksgiving dinner. 3 cups peeled pearl onions, about 1 lb (450 g) 1 lb (450 g) Brussels sprouts, trimmed

1/4 cup butter 1 cup chicken stock

1/4 tsp salt Pinch each cayenne and freshly ground pepper 1 bay leaf

1/4 cup finely chopped parsley

Cut a shallow "X" in the bottom of the onions and Brussels sprouts. In a medium-sized, heavy-bottomed saucepan melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onions; fry for 5 minutes. Cover and cook gently for 5 minutes longer or until tender crisp.

Add the sprouts, stock, salt, cayenne, pepper and bay leaf. Cover, bring to the boil, reduce heat to simmer until sprouts are tender, about 10 to 15 minutes longer. Remove bay leaf; drain, reserving the stock for a hearty soup. Transfer to a heated serving bowl and sprinkle on parsley. Serves 6 to 8. Sweetly Sour Pearl Onions And Raisins This is a great dish to take to a pot-luck supper. Depending on the other dishes there, you can serve the piquant but mellow onions at room temperature as an appetizer on crisp Melba toast. Or spoon into a bowl to serve with a cheese and cold meat platter. Hot, they're an excellent companion to chicken, duck, game hens or turkey. 6 cups peeled pearl onions, about 2 lb (900 g) 2 tbsp oil 1 large clove garlic, slivered

1/2 cup water

1/4 cup medium sherry

1/4 cup white or red wine vinegar

3/4 cup dark seedless raisins 2 tbsp brown sugar 1 tbsp tomato paste

1/2 tsp salt Pinch each cayenne and freshly ground pepper 1 bay leaf

Cut a shallow "X" in the bottom of each onion.

In a medium-sized, heavy-bottomed saucepan heat oil over medium setting. Add onions and garlic and fry for about 10 minutes or until the onions begin to look translucent. Add all remaining ingredients, cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer until onions are tender and a sauce has formed, about 40 minutes. Uncover and cook over high heat for about 5 minutes to thicken sauce. Remove bay leaf. Makes 6 to 8 servings. Cheese And Pearl Onion Gratin It's hard to beat a cheese and onion combo, especially when it's baked crisp in the oven. Serve for a buffet, or let it come to the table with leftover cold chicken, turkey or ham. 4 cups peeled pearl onions, about 1 1/4 lb (575 g) 2 tbsp butter 2 cloves garlic, slivered

1/2 cup chicken stock

1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg Pinch each salt and freshly ground pepper 1 cup freshly grated firm cheese, such as Parmesan, Cheddar or Emmenthal

1/2 cup fine fresh breadcrumbs, whole wheat suggested

Cut a shallow "X" in the bottom of each onion.

In a wide saucepan with a heavy bottom, melt butter; add the onions and garlic and saut over medium heat for 5 minutes, stirring almost constantly. Pour in stock; sprinkle with nutmeg, salt and pepper. Cover, bring to the boil, reduce heat and simmer until onions are tender and the stock has reduced, about 20 minutes. If you're making the gratin ahead of time, cool onions and refrigerate until needed.

Transfer onions and remaining stock to a broiler-proof dish large enough to accommodate the onions in one layer. Mix cheese and crumbs; sprinkle evenly over onions. Set about 4 inches from the heat and broil until cheese has melted and with the crumbs has formed a crisp crust, about 3 to 4 minutes. Note: If the onions are cold, bake at 350 degrees F for 10 minutes before broiling. Makes 4 to 6 servings. Ginger And Honey Glazed Onions This started out as Honey Glazed Onions, from Rose Murray's Vegetable Cookbook (James Lorimer & Co.), but I couldn't resist the idea of a dash of soy sauce, especially when there was a fine piece of fresh ginger on the counter. With or without my additions, serve with chops or a roast of pork or lamb. 4 cups peeled pearl onions, about 1 1/4 lb (575 g)

1/4 cup butter 2 tbsp mild honey 1 tbsp soy sauce 1 tsp finely chopped fresh ginger

1/4 tsp salt

Cut a shallow "X" in the bottom of each onion so the leaves don't separate. Place onions in a greased shallow baking dish just big enough to accommodate them in a single layer.

In a small saucepan melt together the butter and honey over medium heat. Stir in soy sauce, ginger and salt. Drizzle evenly over onions; cover with foil and bake at 350 degrees F for 30 minutes. Uncover and continue baking for 20 to 30 minutes longer, basting the onions periodically, or until onions are tender and glazed.

Serve immediately, or reheat if desired. There's enough here for 4 to 6 servings.

When it comes to mastering the magic of moosing and capturing the thrilling challenge of the hunt, Joe Sammut reigns supreme.

He swept the grunt, bawl and bellow silverware at the Ontario Hunting Show, winning both the provincial and the Molson World Moose Calling Championship, the first time anybody has taken both titles.

It was no cakewalk for Sammut, who defeated a field of 30 skilled callers that included a number of past winners, most of whom hail from the moose meadows of Northern Ontario and Quebec.

While the 54-year-old 1985 champ is a colorful character who sports a bear claw necklace and appears to come from the boonies, looks can be deceiving. Sammut is a Spar Aerospace engineering technician who lives in Rexdale, which he says "isn't the bush but it's still a jungle".

Grunted challenge

The lifelong hunter has bagged 22 deer, four bears, a small mountain of rabbits, plus the four moose he shot since he first learned to call, six years ago.

A moose hunter's repertoire consists of the sound made by a cow trying to seduce a mate and the bull's grunted challenge.

That's the one to imitate when your cow call has lured a bull that is hesitant to step into the open. When the would-be lothario hears your guttural grunt, he reckons another has beaten him to the punch and he throws caution to the winds.

Horns are as individualistic as the hunters who use them. Not really what their name implies, moose horns are nothing more than cylindrical amplifiers of the sounds that come from within the callers.

Most nimrods use a traditional conical horn of rolled birch bark, although 1984 world titlist Marty Roberts favors a steer horn. A number even do their thing with cupped hands.

Horn of plenty

Rather appropriately, Sammut's trumpet is a horn of plenty, made from wicker and wrapped with birch bark.

North Gower waterfowler Robert Thornton is the 1985 Ontario Duck Calling Champ and Dave Hotchkiss of Osgoode quacked his way to the Molson Canadian Duck Calling crown.

Unlike a moose horn, a duck call is a reeded instrument that must be properly tuned. One sour note will knock a caller out of the running, on the stage or in the marsh.

Competitors are judged on their ability to coax an imaginary flight into the decoys with a sequence of highball, greeting, lonesome hen, comeback and feeding calls.

While winning the prestigious Canadian championship is a paramount thrill for any caller, it's also worth a lot of bucks to Hotchkiss, who manufactures calls under the Chesapeake label.

Respected sportsman

The Molson World Goose Calling Championship was won by Orillia's Earl Newhall, a respected sportsman, active conservationist and one of Ontario's top callers for more than two decades.

Spurred by the successful reintroduction of gobblers to southern Ontario, turkey calling is growing in popularity.

Joe Weaver of London took the Molson Canadian Turkey Calling Championship with the help of a double diaphram call that fits inside the mouth. Dandy, unless you swallow the device, in which case you really will talk gobbledegook.

Talking turkey comes naturally for the University of Western Ontario biologist, who says, "I've been eating and sleeping with turkeys for the past 18 months."

The junior calling contests, sponsored by the Ontario Federation of Anglers and Hunters, were delightful crowd-pleasers.

Nicole Bourgeois, 9, of Mississauga is the junior moose calling champ and her brother Shawn took the teen title.

Another 9-year-old, Tanya King of Ajax, walked off with the duck and goose trophies while Drew Myers of Brooklin is Canada's top teen duck caller.

Demonstrations and competitions staged in the Ralston Purina Sporting Dog Arena were outstanding and, in some cases, astounding. Mel Wolfe of Drumbo, along with his springer spaniel Bimini Dan's Black Spot, was presented with the coveted Sporting Dog and Handler Award.

Countless contributions

Lloyd Libke of Cobourg was honored with the Ontario Out of Doors magazine "Trapper/Hunter of the Year Award" in recognition of his countless contributions to youth outdoors education and conservation.

The record 40,000 visitors who clicked the Ontario Hunting Show turnstiles indicate hunting is a burgeoning pastime.

Conservation was the dominant theme and it was clear that such organizations as the Ontario Federation of Anglers and Hunters, Ducks Unlimited and the Ontario Trappers Association are major contributors to wildlife management programs.

Nevertheless, the International Centre was picketed by a rather pathetic ragtag band of anti-hunting protesters who were more to be pitied than despised.

One placard depicted a tiger and the words "Hunting Must Stop." Another sick sign read: "Burt Myers (Ontario Out of Doors editor), why not turn the gun on yourself?"

Hats off to an 11-year-old kid, who obviously has a far better understanding of conservation than those misguided adult demonstrators.

When a picketer told him, "Killing animals is cruel and meat is poison," he replied: "Then why don't you picket the supermarkets?"

Display artist Sylvia Paterson has refined her style during almost 10 years of working at Sportables, picking up fashion ideas from her long experience in the Toronto clothing business. Before she joined the casually elegant Bloor St. store, she modelled in fashion shows, worked as designer Pat MacDonagh's personal assistant and sold clothes wholesale for Canadian fashion king Alfred Sung.

Since she became a mother of two children, Paterson has given up her position as manager of Sportables. She now works part-time arranging displays, co-ordinating Sportables' occasional fashion shows and selling clothes.

"I like to look relaxed, comfortable and still be sophisticated," says British-born Paterson, 34. Here are her fashion and beauty philosophies.

Skin care: Paterson uses Shiseido products to care for her oily skin. In the morning, she uses the moisturizer and regular soap. At night, she applies Shiseido anti-wrinkle cream.

Makeup: "I experiment with different makeup brands to find the most natural-looking product," says Paterson, who enhances her healthy complexion during the day with Revlon Mulberry blush, Shiseido waterproof black mascara and Moisture Mist lip gloss.

She still wears the subdued natural cosmetics that Sportables used to sell several years ago.

Hair: After spending hours straightening her long hair in the '60s, Paterson switched to her current cropped wash-and-wear style. She began coloring her hair at age 30. "Gray hair comes early in the family."

Her brother, who is a professional hairdresser, sometimes makes house calls to trim her hair.

Fashion: Her working wardrobe consists of comfortable casual separates, including Adrienne Vittadini sweaters, leather pants and oversized shirts. "I find blazers too restricting." Three-quarters of her clothes are from Sportables.

Her casual clothes include Santa stonewashed jeans from Bliss, a colorful sweatshirt from Cotton Ginny and a seven-year-old denim skirt from Rainbow.

She rarely dresses up for formal occasions.

Paterson often wore linen to work during the summer and stayed well-pressed on the job. "I don't sit down much at work, so my clothes don't crease."

Fitness: Before her children were born, she exercised with ballet classes and Dancercize. "Now it's very difficult for me to fit exercise into my schedule. Both my children are too young for school and it's hard to get a babysitter."

She enjoys attending an hour-long aerobics class once a week at the community centre and playing tennis in the summer.

Diet: Paterson, who is 5 feet, 8 inches tall and weighs 120 pounds, controls her weight by avoiding desserts. She enjoys red meat, baked potatoes and fish. "I used to eat a Mars bar a day," says Paterson, who still eats them twice a week.

Being acquitted of crime on the grounds of insanity is worse than being certified insane by civil action, the Ontario Court of Appeal was told yesterday.

Psychiatric patients cannot ordinarily be confined in hospital against their will unless they are shown to be dangerous to themselves and others, lawyer Michael Code said.

But people confined after being acquitted of crime on the grounds of insanity may be held until they are no longer mentally ill - even if they cease to be dangerous long before they are totally recovered, Code said.

Code was appearing on behalf of Owen Swain, 25, who was held in custody after being acquitted of assault even though he had been free on bail for two years before his trial.

Common assault

Swain was charged in October of 1983 with common assault against his wife Sandra and of aggravated (life-endangering) assault against their children, Steven and Samantha, who were 16 months and 2 months old at the time the charges were laid.

If acquittal for insanity is a true acquittal, then people acquitted under this section of the code should be treated the same as if they had never been charged, Code said.

Society can protect itself from such people if necessary by using the procedures set out in the Mental Health Act, he said.

At Swain's trial in the spring, court was told Swain had demolished all the furniture in his apartment in an apparent rage, carved an X in his wife's chest with a meat cleaver and swung his naked children about in his arms.

He believed he was warding off evil spirits, court was told.

Psychiatrist Russell Fleming of the forensic unit at the Ontario Mental Health Centre in Penetanguishene testified that Swain was psychotic when Fleming examined him eight days later.

Responded well

However, evidence also showed that Swain had responded well to therapy and had even babysat his children since then with the approval of the Children's Aid Society and without incident.

In Swain's case the crown, instead of trying as it usually does to prove the accused man guilty, set out to prove he was not guilty by reason of insanity.

An insanity verdict can have the result in practice of incarcerating a person for the rest of his life.

The person must be held in custody until released by the Lieutenant-Governor following a hearing by a review board of psychiatrists and lawyers.

The board must review the case within six months and annually thereafter, but a person confined on a Lieutenant-Governor's warrant cannot demand hearings any sooner or more often.

Swain's counsel argued at his trial that since Swain was no longer dangerous to society he should not be deprived of the right to take his chances of being acquitted or at least of receiving a fixed sentence on conviction.

However, District Court Judge Hugh O'Connell found that the crown had the right under the circumstances to force the insanity defence on the accused.

After acquitting Swain on the grounds of insanity, O'Connell also rejected lawyer Marlys Edwardh's argument that the Lieutenant-Governor's warrants under which such people are held are contrary to the Charter of Rights.

Edwardh, Clayton Ruby and Code are appealing the acquittal on Swain's behalf.

Swain is still being held at the Queen St. Mental Health Centre.

The hearing continues.

SOWETO - SOWETO - The messages are scrawled in angry, red letters across the front of Maponya's Discount Store.

"Freedom" says one.

"Children of the great heroes of Africa, don't allow whites to sit on you," adds another.

The graffiti covering her storefront at one of Soweto's busiest intersections makes Marina Maponya shake her head in sadness.

"If the young people only knew how much we had to sacrifice to get where we are," she sighs. "But nothing is good enough and nothing is fast enough for them."

Deadly effects

For the owners of black businesses in South Africa, the impatience of the young can have deadly effects.

Black traders and businessmen have been among the principal targets of unrest in black townships this year.

Seen as "tools" of the white system and the government of President Pieter Botha, they have had their homes burned and bombed and their businesses destroyed.

"Many have not only lost their livelihoods, but also their lives," says Sam Motsuenyane, president of the National African Federated Chambers of Commerce.

"It is essential to have a firm business base if freedom is to be meaningful to the black community," Motsuenyane says. "But at the moment we know the young perceive capitalism and apartheid as one and the same."

The Maponyas, like hundreds of other black, middle-class South Africans, have been left uncertain and bewildered by the hostility of white competitors and the antagonism of their own people.

Since the latest cycle of unrest began in Soweto, deliveries of food and goods at the Maponyas' family supermarket have fallen off by 20 per cent.

Truck hijacked

"The drivers won't come into Soweto any more because the kids keep stoning them," she says. "We had a meat truck hijacked the other day. Can you imagine people stopping meat coming for their own families?"

As she spoke, her husband Richard was spending most of the night at the family garage to prevent gangs of youths from stealing gasoline.

One prominent black Soweto businessman summed up the dilemma in a sad article this month for the Johannesburg Star.

It was titled, "What it's like to be an Enemy of your own People."

"No matter what you do during the day, regardless of the position you hold, even your ability to own the finest mansion in white suburbia, you must return to the ghetto at night," wrote the businessman who kept his name secret for his own safety.

"(But) you are seen as allies of the system, who are so comfortable and with so much property to defend, that you can never be an enthusiastic and committed participant in the liberation struggle . . . It is now becoming increasingly apparent that your ambition is not being shared by the modern-day flame-throwers."

Best hope for peace

The black middle class, despite being treated as subversive by this country"s warring groups, represents South Africa's best hope for peaceful change along with moderate leaders like Bishop Desmond Tutu.

The buying power of the black majority in South Africa has grown by leaps and bounds in the last decade alone.

Ten years ago, it was rare to see a black man at the wheel of a car unless he was someone"s chauffeur.

Today, rising salaries and living standards have made blacks a powerful consumer force who lead sales of everything from cars to soap in South Africa.

Ken Owen, one of the country's best columnists, was astonished by a recent tour he made of black and colored (mixed race) townships.

He found scenes of violence, but he also came across people whose values were the same as those of white suburban dwellers.

"A housewife polishes her stoop until it sparkles. Laundry whiter and brighter, flaps on a line above the mud," he wrote. "The main impression when you travel from place to place is the massive integration of black people into bourgeois life, the creation of an emergent bourgeoisie that tragically provides the handiest victims for the terror that is taking hold in black residential areas."

"Shock troops'

Owen concluded that whites ignored the phenomenon at their own peril.

"If we whites do not recognize our middle-class allies across the street, and go quickly to their aid, we deserve to fall into the hands of those shock troops of the revolution whose methods are to burn and to break," he wrote.

But only a minority of whites so far have heard the message. White businessmen, anxious to retain control of the black market, have effectively used the system of apartheid to restrict their black competitors.

Until recently, the business districts of South Africa's major cities were off-limits to black businessmen.

And the odds are stacked against the survival of businesses in black areas.

Research by the Small Business Development Corporation shows that over the next five years nearly $5 billion is earmarked for new development in white areas. Less than $500 million is earmarked for black commercial and industrial development.

The system of pass laws and influx control which has made blacks strangers in their own country has led to some bizarre situations. Blacks are obliged to carry pass books, or reference books, which indicate whether they have permission to work in white areas.

One black businessman in Soweto made a fortune out of a garage chain. But because he was born on a farm, and legally obligated to work only as a farm laborer, he has to hide at one of his garages and bribe officials to overlook the fact that he has no pass.

Source of loans

White attempts to undercut black initiative have gone to some extreme lengths.

"When we started our bank, we had to have people on the board from the five major white banks, and they used us as the playground for their own commercial ideas," says Alan Young, an official of the African Bank, now the country"s largest black-controlled banking operation.

Since 1975, the African Bank has become a major source of loan capital to black businessmen.

"Before we came along, it was almost impossible for any black person to make it on his own," said Young. "Until five years ago, blacks couldn't accumulate any assets that would help them get a loan.

"They couldn't buy a house, and they couldn't own shares. There was no security they could offer."

NEW YORK - I was in my tiny city kitchen when I realized it had all gone wrong. It was a night like any other. I was feeding my husband. We were having plain chicken with rice. The cats, however, would be having Savory Stew, ameat and vegetable dish in a wonderful caramel-colored gravy. Our dinner would run 79 cents a pound, the cats' $1.18. What's more, if my husband didn't like his dinner, he'd still love me. But if our cats found something unsavory in their stew. they'd yowl, break things, and maybe pee in my shoe.

It's because of them that I've fallen under what I consider to be "the curse of the little round cans." You know, the cans that take up more shelf space in America's groceries with each passing year, the cans that add 30 per cent to the amount of time it takes to check out and about that much to the bill.

That night in the kitchen I took a hard look at the little round can of Savory Stew in my hand.

Both my cats, cued by my reach for the can opener, struck their preprandial frenzy pose, hind legs dancing on the floor, front feet clawing at the cabinet doors.

Undaunted by this display, I took the time to read the ingredients on the label. They included carrots, bell peppers, peas, potatoes, and a host of strange things like thiamin mononitrate, ethylene-diamine dihydriodide, pyridixone hydrochloride, and biotin, which all turn out to be vitamins or minerals.

What's more, the label assured me, the little round can contained a complete and nutritionally balanced diet as recommended by the NRC. I pondered what role the Nuclear Regulatory Commission played in cat food. As I fed the cats, I resolved that the time had come to get to the bottom of what has swept over the cat food industry.

The first thing I learned was that I've been caught up in a national trend. According to polls that examine such things, the cat is "the pet of the '80s." Some time in the '70s, probably as a result of smaller families, urbanization, or a nationwide madness, people started keeping more and more cats. This sudden infatuation is hard to explain, since it has always seemed to me that cats only occupy space and think about three things: food, sex, and nothing. If they're neutered, that leaves food.

Be that as it may, there are now some 48 million cats living in more than 27 million American households.

The industry is

off and running

This is 10 million more cats and 8 million more households than just five years ago. Tinier households, combined with convenience foods, mean fewer scraps. The cat food industry, which was a rather humble presence on the grocer's shelf, is off and running.

And we're no longer talking about little factories grinding up fish eyeballs and chicken feet and sticking them into cans. We're talking about a big, complicated, and - wary of industrial espionage - security-conscious business.

Every morning dozens of scientists, technicians and computer operators commence another exciting day of tests in the field of feline nutrition. At locations in California, Missouri, Kansas, Illinois and Washington, some 2,700 test-kitchen cats warm up their taste buds for another round of determining what their brethren will eat tomorrow.

Nearly $2 billion worth of cat food will be sold in the U.S. this year, and with that kind of market to be divvied up, it isn't surprising that there's been a boom in an area of science that most of us don't even know exists - the study of feline palatability. Not what cats taste like, but what tastes good to cats.

These scientists and their gourmand cats have conspired to make the hands of cat owners pass over the cheaper, less tasty brands and land as if by magnetism on the more expensive little round cans.

The Big Four cat food makers, like the Big Four auto makers, are corporate giants, each with its own feline research department.

Of the Big Four, only the folks at Ralston Purina are who they appear to be - the old animal chow company at Checkerboard Square in St. Louis. More cats crunch their dry food than any other brand. But 9-Lives, the canned food king, is owned by Star-Kist - making Morris the Cat and Charlie the Tuna distant cousins.

Star-Kist is in turn owned by Heinz, the catsup company. Carnation, the maker of Friskies, is owned by Nestle's the chocolate people. This makes perfect sense when you realize that Mars, the candy company, makes Kal Kan, the other major brand of cat food.

The cat food canners bank on the fact that cats, because of their keen sense of smell, preference for certain flavors, and general pain-in-the-neck attitude will often consider their food at length before eating - and maybe decide not to eat at all, at least while we're looking.

We cat owners, most of us descendants of starving immigrants, can't stand to see something go hungry.

"I just love cats!" Dr. Ed Kane says, cat hair wafting through the air around him. "I have 536 and 8 at home, and I'm allergic to every one of them." Each day, Kane's nose runs and his eyes water as he goes about his quest for the perfect cat food.

He's a man who has dedicated his life to learning about what cats like to eat. Kane, 39, has a PhD. in small-animal nutrition and spent four postdoctoral years studying cat taste preferences and cats' attitudes toward food. Today he oversees Carnation's cats.

Some are exercising, some are napping, some are participating in an "open room test," in which they walk around in a room full of various bowls of cat food formulas. Each bowl is computer-coded, and its contents and weight, down to the last gram, are entered into a Hewlett-Packard 85-A computer in the cattery kitchen.

In another room a group of cats has been empaneled in small cages. Room A's cats are charged with comparing two formulations for a new Friskies canned food. Those in Room B will be comparing similar Friskies and Purina chows. These are just two of the 3,000 tests the cats will perform this year. Among them, they'll accept or reject 250,000 little round cans and 70,000 pounds of dry food.

The cats sniff

back and forth

Each test, each day, is a serious affair. As the stainless steel bowls clatter in the kitchen, a frenzy of excitement builds among the feline jurors in Rooms A and B. White-coated technicians present the food. The cats, knowing full well there's a choice, sniff back and forth and back again before settling down to eat.

For scientific accuracy, the type of food presented on the left side of the cage on one day will be put in on the right side the next. "Some cats are right-side eaters, some are left-side eaters," Kane explains, "and we don't want that to influence the results."

On this morning, the cats in Room A give a new Friskies product an overwhelming nod of approval. I can almost imagine them calling their brokers after hours. Some cats in Room B, however, are diving into the competition's chow.

"It happens," Kane shrugs, good-naturedly. Only in America.

Kane says that not long ago he gave a tour of the cattery to some visiting bureaucrats from the Soviet Union. He explained the whole palatability concept to them as they stared at him.

"They were very polite," Kane says, "and in the end, they had only one question. They asked me what we did with the pelts."

Beyond worrying about how the food tastes, the scientists fuss over how it smells and feels. 9-Lives scientists look at something they call the relish factor - how a cat responds to the sound and smell of the can being opened.

Ralston Purina researches "mouth feel," which is supposed to determine whether cats prefer their food round, square, oval or star-shaped.

Carnation is proud of the way their Fancy Feast product plops out of its pull-tab can without anyone having to dirty a spoon. This makes it the consummate yuppie cat food for the busy one-cat household.

There is, however, one magic sauce used throughout the industry - a substance called "digest." Digest is liquefied, pre-digested meat, added to the yummy gravies on canned foods and baked into the dry chow. In the manufacture of digest, meat is enzymatically broken down - in a tank, not in a cat's stomach - until it reaches the desired consistency. Then it's covered with phosphoric acid to halt the process, after which it's added to the food and cooked with it. Cats just love its tangy taste.

"Most of the research done at major cat food companies is on palatability," says veterinarian Lon Lewis of Topeka, Kans., a leading small-animal clinical nutritionist. "But palatability is a terrible way to judge a food. If I were only concerned about palatability, I have one son I'd feed nothing but chocolate bars."

Those of us who've been feeding our cats the feline equivalent of chocolate bars can either continue to pay top price or prepare to do battle. "Once you move them up the palatability hierarchy, it's almost impossible to move them down," Ed Kane says.

The question remains, of course: Why did our old barn cats, eating Jell-O and Cheerios, live to be 20 years old, reproducing successfully, in fact very successfully, their whole lives? The answer is mice - mice and their nutritionally comparable rodent cousins.

According to Kane, because a mouse's tiny body provides all the necessary amino and fatty acids and its little bones all the right vitamins and minerals, it's "the perfect food for a cat."

So why doesn't some enterprising company cook some mice, grind the little suckers up, and put 'em in a can? Well, for one thing, the human consumer probably wouldn't go for it. And the cat might not be nuts about it, either.

I'm wondering now if by any chance the next time the cat's dinner looks better than ours, maybe if I served it with rice and a nice salad . . . * * *

VANCOUVER - VANCOUVER (CP) - Three people in serious condition in hospital are among eight who have apparently contracted botulism from eating sliced beef sandwiches in a Vancouver restaurant two weeks ago.

Three cases of botulism have been confirmed and the dangerous form of food poisoning is strongly suspected in another five cases, Vancouver's medical health officer Dr. John Blatherwick said yesterday.

All eight - three from Montreal and five from Vancouver - are believed to have eaten the sandwiches at the same Vancouver restaurant Sept. 1, Blatherwick said in a telephone interview.

Botulism is fatal in 50 to 60 per cent of all reported cases. He said that he has been told that two of the three people (a mother and two daughters) ill in Montreal are in very serious condition.

Check symptoms

He is urging anyone who ate sliced beef sandwiches at that restaurant since Sept. 1 and who is experiencing symptoms of dizziness, blurred or double vision, dryness of mouth or difficulty in swallowing or breathing to contact a doctor immediately.

"We were first notified Wednesday of the cases of suspected botulism in Montreal and that the people had been in Vancouver," he said.

One of two people in Vancouver General Hospital is in serious condition, Blatherwick said, and the rest are in stable condition.

Blatherwick has not been able to determine exactly how the botulism bacteria came to be in the sliced beef at the one restaurant but his staff are investigating.

Produces toxin

He said he suspects the botulism bacteria was probably not killed during the processing of the meat and that then the meat may have been improperly stored or handled at the restaurant.

Botulism produces a toxin that destroys acetylcholine, a chemical in the body that permits the transmission of nerve impulses. Cases of botulism should be treated quickly with an anti-toxin drug.

Jersey - "I've always wanted my own zoo, ever since I was a youngster carrying toads around in my pocket," says Gerald Durrell. "Now, it's here. My wife Lee thinks I'm mad and so does my bank manager. It has meant a life of tranquillizers and overdrafts."

The younger brother of novelist Lawrence, and himself the author of close to 30 books, Gerald Durrell does indeed have his own zoo - one devoted exclusively to endangered species: mammals, reptiles and birds threatened with imminent extinction.

He began it a quarter-century ago on a 37-acre estate on tiny Jersey in the Channel Islands, just 15 miles off the coast of Normandy. Since 1963 it has been known as the Jersey Zoological Park and operated by the non-profit Jersey Wild Life Preservation Trust, whose dozen expert board members find that the chief task is keeping honorary director (and amateur naturalist) Durrell from sending the Trust into penury and exhausting Lee's housekeeping money, too, by buying up every threatened animal in sight.

"If animals could talk," says John Hartley, a trust officer, "they would vote Gerry and Lee a pair of Nobel Prizes."

The Durrells' zoo draws about 300,000 visitors a year, although it boasts none of the crowd-pleasers like elephants, seals or giraffes. Not even a gnu. But it does have several hundred rare species, including the orang-utang, the bush baby, the monkey-like potto and the tuatura - a lizard-like reptile virtually unchanged over millions of years. Reptiles are not everyone's delight, though they are Durrell's. "Rather dimwitted, I'll admit, but they give a fascinating glimpse into what pre-history must have been like," he enthuses.

The purpose and spirit of the zoo is dramatized just inside the entrance gates. There stands a huge, three-dimensional figure of the flightless, waddling, pigeon-toed dodo, looking as if it had just stepped out of Alice Through The Looking Glass.

"The dodo is what this zoo is all about," says Durrell. "He used to live on Mauritius in the Indian Ocean. When the Portuguese came they started chopping down the dodo's trees. They brought in cats, dogs, pigs and for some obscure reason, monkeys. The dogs harried the adult dodos, the cats the young, and the pigs ate the eggs.

"By 1693, 186 years after it had been seen for the first time by Europeans, the dodo was extinct. The bird took millions of years to evolve. It was perfectly harmless and wanted nothing more than to live a quiet life in its island home.

"What we want to do in our zoo is to save a modern day dodo or two. If we do, we'll have paid some of the debt we owe for the pleasure of living. After all, once an animal species is exterminated, no amount of effort on the part of man can reproduce it again."

In Golden Bats And Pink Pigeons, Durrell describes being both seasick and having had sunstroke in his efforts to chronicle the rare beasts of Mauritius. Golden fruit bats nipped at him rather than let him spread their legs so he could determine their sex. Most beasts were always found at the end of very fragile palm branches with a long fall the constant risk.

The bearded, graying Durrell cites the list of endangered species put out each year by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature. Currently endangered are 285 mammals, 320 birds, 120 reptiles and 90 fishes which are the reason for risking life and limb.

The Durrells and their staff see themselves in a race against extinction, finding a rare species here, buying a last pair of specimens there, acting as marriage brokers and midwives to enable the animals to mate and recreate. The Durrells are more Mr. and Mrs. Noah than Frank Buck; their animals preferably come to them two by two, and they specialize in breeding them, not teaching them to do tricks for admiring audiences.

"People think that breeding creatures is just a matter of putting opposite sexes in a cage together," he says, "but it isn't. You might as well put me in a cage with one or two ladies in public life I could mention - it just wouldn't work. Animals, birds and reptiles also need things to their liking before they'll breed and raise their young."

Most of their 1,000 and more animals become more like pets than zoo inmates. All get names. There is Trumpy, their gray-winged trumpeter, which Durrell says, "looks like an untidily constructed chicken;" and Binty, the binturong, a civet cat, which he describes as "a badly made hearth-rug." George, the Guiana dragon, is fed an exclusive diet of snails while Topsy, the wooly monkey, is given stuffed Teddy bears, on a rotating basis, to serve as foster-mothers.

The Durrells maintain close links with the International Wildlife Federation and similar ecological groups. The trust's annual report reads like a thesis for a master's degree in zoology; each species is covered by a page or two of scientific text detailing everything from the appearance of baby teeth in the new orang-utang to the vitamin needs of the marmoset, findings supported by charts and tables and bibliography of several dozen articles and books.

The zoo is regularly visited by zookeepers, professors and explorers, some of whom show up with rare animals as gifts for the Durrells to breed. They recognize that while Durrell has no academic background in zoology, he started the zoo long before most of the world found it fashionable to be worried about endangered species.

Durrell sees himself developing a cadre of naturalists who will push public opinion, and the world's position into greater awareness of environmental concerns. "Humans seem to suffer from the extraordinary illusion that we're the only creatures worth bothering about in the world," he says. "But everything on earth depends on everything else in a great network, and you can't go smashing up huge bits of it and expect it to remain a pleasant place to live in. And it's no use expecting politicians to sort it out by themselves. Politicians need pushing - and it's up to all of us to push them."

The Durrells' home, and the zoo headquarters, is Les Augres Manor, a 17th Century granite-walled mansion in north-eastern Jersey, surrounded by lawns, flower-beds, woods and ponds.

The zoo looks more like a country home (which it originally was) than the usual urban animal repository. Less than a quarter of their acreage is used for the animals, so there are plenty of open fields, ponds and groves of trees between the several cage areas and the outdoor runs where leopards lope along or drowse in the Jersey sun. A few of the older buildings still reflect their origins; clearly identifiable are an old stable, carriage house and cider press which now echo to the caw-caw of birds and the gibbering of monkeys.

A major zoo structure is the gorilla complex. At its sides, visitors may peer in through large glass picture windows as the shambling inmates romp in a large, well-lit area.

Sometimes, however, giving the animals brand new quarters is counter-productive. A pair of African civets, housed regally, simply refused to mate so the Durrells put them in a scruffy outdoor hutch.

"Now we can't stop them from mating," he says, with the smile of a delighted grandfather.

Pairs of breeding birds often require separate aviaries, and low-lying quarters have been built for the owls and Congo peacocks. The reptile and amphibian breeding centre was funded by two Canadian members of the trust - plus a new marmoset and tamarin breeding complex. There's a big water meadow; small dams have converted a stream into a series of pretty, plant-ringed ponds, and a graceful collection of flamingoes, cranes and storks has taken possession of the shoreline.

The proximity of their home to the animal cages means that when they are on Jersey, the Durrells never really get very far away from zoo-keeping, even at night. "Sometimes I forget to switch off our intercom, for instance," says Durrell. "Once we were entertaining some people we didn't know very well and in the middle of the affair a voice boomed in, "Mr D - the apes have diarrhea again. Would you like to take a look?' "

Durrell has chronicled some of his adventures living in the middle of a zoo in his books, Menagerie Manor and Two In The Bush.

During most of 1984, Durrell wasn't in Jersey at all. Accompanied by Lee, he was travelling the world filming his new TV series, The Amateur Naturalist. Lee is a quiet-spoken American, and is a qualified zoologist. She is as dedicated as Durrell to the Trust's work. Many years younger than he, she unflinchingly faces the prospect of being his heir and taking over his Trust responsibilities.

"I've simply chosen a good widow," he says. "It's only sensible to plan one's successors - and if one happens to be in love with them, so much the better."

Their latest project is a new book about the things that happened when they were filming The Amateur Naturalist. "Its title," he jokes, "will be How To Shoot An Amateur Naturalist." Like his other books, it is likely to sell well, doing its bit to secure the future of the long list of the zoo's rare creatures. "I hope our student training programme and our links with overseas governments might help lay the foundation for a whole network of conservation schemes," he says.

Books and animals have dominated Durrell's life. One Christmas dinner was disrupted when Chumley and Sheena, two chimps, escaped and clambered into an upstairs staff bedroom.

Locked in, they managed to reduce the bed to a pile of feathers and, by jamming the feathers into a sink, flood the upstairs with water. Too wild to carry, the chimps had to be hosed down the hall and into a waiting cage before all hands could return to a dinner that was five hours later than expected.

Also time-consuming was Gerald's vigil at an impending marmoset birth. "Visitors to the zoo that day," he says, "must have thought me slightly eccentric, sitting there for hours dictating letters while keeping my eyes fixed on a cageful of marmosets. About midday someone came I had to see. I was away from the cage all of 10 minutes. And, you guessed it, she gave birth in precisely the short time I was gone. I could quite cheerfully have strangled her."

Chronically troubled for ready cash, the Durrells have on occasion managed to get dealers to sell them rare animals on the instalment plan. Then they put a collection box by the appropriate cage, requesting coins to meet each month's payments.

Once this plan went awry. Oscar, an instalment-plan orang-utang, managed to pull his collection box into his cage and devour the donations. Only after a good deal of coaxing did he spit out five half-crowns, four sixpences and a penny.

Although they badly need the public's support for the zoo and Trust, Gerald becomes quite discouraged sometimes over visitors' conduct with captive animals.

"We've found people trying to give the chimps lighted cigarettes and razor blades," he sighs. "Monkeys have been given lipsticks which, of course, they thought were some exotic fruit and eaten accordingly, only to develop acute colic. Then someone pushed a packet full of aspirin into the chinchilla cage; the poor animal died the next day. The behavior of some human beigns in a zoo has to be seen to be believed."

What has impressed Durrell most about his years of zoo-keeping on Jersey has been the enormous amount of neighborly enthusiasm displayed for what they are trying to accomplish.

"One would have thought there might have been a great deal of apprehension about a zoo being plunked down in the middle of an island that's only five miles by nine," says Gerald.

"But nothing of the kind. We have farmers who regularly bring us newly-slaughtered bulls to serve as fresh meat for our carnivores. And kids who steadily show up with boxes of snails, woodlice and insects for our reptiles. Really heart-warming."

Locals still talk about the day a staff member, armed with a broom, had to sweep Delilah, an angry escaped porcupine, along the highway and back into her cage. Or the time five staffers in nightclothes had to drag home Claudius, the 400 lb. tapir.

"Ever try to move an unco-operative tapir?", Durrel asks. "They're sleek, and the biggest topside protuberance they have is their ears, and you can't pick one up by them very well. We had to put a leash on Claudius and practically drag him - all 400 lbs. - cross-country. Then the last quarter mile he decided to run, and dragged us."

Then there was Pythagoras the python, who lived in a converted garage: "It was all we could afford for him at the time," explains Durrell. "In order to clean it out, we had to catch Pythagoras and put him in an enormous laundry basket to keep him out of the way. Pythagoras took great exception to this, he was a very powerful snake and nobody was to attempt it on their own.

"Well, I was passing the garage one day when I heard, "help, help!' There was John Hartley with Pythagoras wound round him like a sort of maypole. "You bloody fool!' I said, and took hold of Pythagoras' tail. As I unwound him he dropped and began curling himself round my feet. Before long, both Hartley and I were linked together by Pythagoras, both shouting, "Help, help!' I'm not quite sure how we got free."

Can the trust succeed; will the Durrells win their race against a decimation of species? "Well," Durrell admits, "one might occasionally wonder vaguely if the answer is really to leap into a hot bath and slash one's wrists - but if I wasn't an optimist, I'd have committed suicide at the age of 18.

"You see, conservation isn't about closing everything down and going back to knitting your own socks and sitting over peat fires: It's constructive. It's saying, we won't get anywhere by ignoring nature. People have got to realize this if we're to survive at all. * Arturo and Maureen Gonzalez are free-lance writers based in London.

MOOSONEE - MOOSONEE - Moose, goose and speckled trout will be on the menu when the Archbishop of Canterbury, Robert Runcie, sits down to a traditional native meal today.

There is a possibility that caribou will be added to the menu, but there still is some doubt about beaver meat.

Jim Collins of Schumacher, a prime organizer of the archbishop's visit to this area, says he has yet to hear of anyone contributing beaver meat for the meal.

But over in Moose Factory, Munroe Linklater, 62, the grandson of the first Cree Anglican priest in the district and people's warden of St. Thomas Anglican Church, says you never know what people have in their freezer.

And he says native people flying in from remote districts for the archbishop's visit may bring a chunk or two of beaver as their contribution to the meal.

Brief stop

The meal is one of the highlights of Runcie's brief visit to this small community at the end of the Ontario Northland Railway near James Bay and to the Indian community of Moose Factory, about 15 minutes away by motorized cedar canoes across the Moose River.

About 250 people are expected in Moosonee's still-unfinished sports arena for the buffet lunch. How many will partake of bannock (unleavened bread) and beans outside is anybody's guess.

About 2,000 people were expected at the annual memorial service early today. It has been held each year for the past 60 years at the 120-year-old St. Thomas Anglican Church at Moose Factory. The service, which is usually held in August, was delayed a month this year to coincide with Runcie's visit.

The archbishop will preach the sermon in the old church with its moosehide altar cloth, ancient pews and red roof of shingles made of tin imported from England.

After a tour of Moose Factory, Runcie flies by helicopter to Moosonee for a tour of the community and the buffet lunch. He then leaves for Sudbury in the early afternoon.

Tomorrow, Runcie visits the Chapel of the Mohawks in Brantford and will address a gathering in Grace Church. In the evening he will participate in celebrations marking the 150th anniversary of Christ Church Cathedral in Hamilton.

On Wednesday Runcie will attend Holy Eucharist at St. Paul's Church on Bloor St. in Toronto, address a luncheon gathering at the Sheraton Centre, and hold a closing media conference at the hotel. He flies back to England later in the day.

Moosonee has declared today a municipal holiday to mark the archbishop's visit. Schoolchildren will be let out of school for the day and many people have chartered planes to fly into Moosonee.

The visit also has an ecumenical flavor with local Roman Catholic, Baptist and Pentecostal clergy invited to the memorial service and with local Catholic women helping prepare food for the luncheon.

While visiting Winnipeg yesterday, Runcie said more countries must join together in economic sanctions against South Africa if they want such action to be effective.

Time is running out for South Africa and countries of the world must unite to combat that country's apartheid policies, he said.

Noodle soup is an all-purpose Chinese dish because it can be served any time of the day or night. Varieties abound, and their flavors and ingredients are culinary clues to a Chinese regional cooking as well as a cook's training.

Lily Yuan, a professional Chinese cook in New York, often makes this hot and spicy homestyle beef noodle soup in the middle of the night for the players at her husband's mah-jong game. I was taken to her home late one night especially to learn the recipe.

Yuan begins the soup a day in advance, cooking the beef with the holy trinity of Chinese seasonings - green onions, garlic and ginger - to create a light broth. She cools and chills both the broth and meat overnight.

While the mah-jong tiles are clicking away about an hour before serving time, Yuan slices and stir-fries the strips of beef with garlicky Szechwan hot chili paste. The paste is partially absorbed by the meat, adding a reddish color and hot taste.

After stir-frying, the meat is sliced and simmered in the seasoned broth until completely tender. Noodles are boiled separately and divided between serving bowls.

Meat slices, green onion slivers and fresh coriander leaves finish off this delicious midnight snack. Chinese cooks sliver green onion bottoms by hand with a cleaver. Similar results can be obtained by using the thin (2 mm) food processor slicing disc. Lily Yuan's Spicy Beef Noodle Soup Processing time: 1 minute Preparation time: 20 minutes Chilling time: 12 hours Cooking time: 4 hours 10 minutes Soup broth: 3 lbs (1.3 kg) boneless beef brisket 3 quarts cold water or chicken stock 4 medium green onions, roots removed 1 medium garlic clove, peeled 4 cubes (1-inch each) fresh ginger

1/4 tsp salt Meat and garnish: Beef brisket from soup, chilled and cut in lengths to fit upright in food chute 3 tbsp hot chili paste with garlic 4 tbsp vegetable oil

1/4 cup all-purpose soy sauce 1 medium bunch green onions, roots removed, halved ( 3/4 cup slivered)

1/2 cup loosely packed fresh coriander leaves

1/2 pound fresh thick wheat noodles or fresh fettucine

1 1/2 quarts boiling water

For soup, combine brisket, water or stock, green onions, garlic, ginger and salt in a stockpot. Heat to simmer and skim off foam. Simmer until beef is tender, usually 3 hours. Cool and refrigerate until meat is thoroughly chilled, overnight if desired.

Cut beef into lengths to fit upright in food chute. Insert thick (6 mm) slicing disc in food processor container. Insert pieces of meat to be sliced across the grain and slice with a firm push; set meat aside.

Strain broth and set aside. In a wok, combine chili paste and oil. Heat and add sliced beef. Stir fry. Add 1/4 cup all purpose soy sauce and 1 cup strained broth. Simmer 3 minutes. Transfer meat mixture to stockpot with remaining broth. Partially cover and simmer rapidly for 1 hour.

Insert thin (2 mm) slicing disc in food processor container. Cut green onions in lengths to fit sideways in food chute and insert in chute. Slice to sliver onions with a gentle push. There should be 3/4 cups loosely packed slivered green onions; set aside. To serve, boil noodles separately in 6 cups water. In individual serving bowls, place several slivers of green onions and 2 or 3 coriander leaves. Drain noodles and divide between bowls. Add broth and meat over noodles. Garnish with additional coriander and slivered onions. Makes 8 servings. Copyright by Jane Salzfass Freiman. All rights reserved.

Montreal Mayor Jean Drapeau is invading Toronto early next month to speak to - you guessed it - a bunch of ex-Montrealers.

The 1,500 or 2,000 expatriates from that Other Place should fill up Roy Thomson Hall with smoked meat, awful cigarettes, "steamies" and a lot of jokes about Toronto.

The party on Oct. 4 is for anyone who has spent "a substantial number of years" in Montreal, said organizer Bernard Forster.

And the guest of honor is His Honor himself, Jean Drapeau, mayor of Montreal for the past few decades.

"We've asked him and he's accepted the invitation," said Forster. "He's arriving about 7 o'clock and leaving on the last flight of the night."

Ex-Montrealers can regale themselves on smoked meat from Lester's Foods, pickles from Mrs. Whyte's, crct "steamies" - steamed hot dogs - and drinks from a cash bar.

They'll see the musical Anglo, an adaption of The Anglo Guide To Survival In Quebec, and see singer Louise Forestier, band leader Guido Basso, Montreal Gazette columnist Thomas Schnurmacher, and others.

The organizers are even flying in 2,000 Mae Wests, the little packaged cakes that are a staple to every good Montrealer's diet.

For the later hours the Black Velvet Band will be imported for the occasion from the Hunter's Horn in Montreal.

"There are about 80,000 ex-Montrealers in the greater Metropolitan Toronto area," Forster said. "McGill University's alumni list shows 7,000 here, and Concordia has 2,500. Bishop's University has another 800."

Admission is $25 per person, which covers everything but the drinks. Anyone interested should call 923-0759.

THE GRILL - The Grill - one of the Windsor Arms Hotel's Three Small Rooms - is a classic. It is simple and understated. It radiates good taste. There's no puffery or deception, no attempt to create an illusion or phony experience. There doesn't have to be. The excellent menu, extensive wine list and superb service are enough.

It is a small room, with white stucco walls and tables close together. It is dominated by the large grill in the corner. The menu is written on a board beside the grill. It offers one soup, three appetizers, three salads and seven entrees.

We started with two of the appetizers - a steamed ragout of mussels and clams ($6.75) and fresh oysters ($6.50). Both were good; the ragout, with its rich wine sauce, was especially mouth-watering.

My wife then had a grilled Atlantic salmon ($16.50). It was large, tender and juicy, topped with a wonderful bernaise sauce. I ordered the mixed grill (14.50). It included lamb, veal, beef, sausage, pork, bacon and liver. It was grill heaven; even people who don't like liver would find it hard to resist here.

Corn on the cob and okra, served with both entrees, were also grilled - crisply, not overdone. With both seafood and meat entrees, the big decision was whether to have red or white wine. We opted for a $16 dry red bordeaux. We also had two huge, rich desserts ($3.25 each) - raspberry cheesecake and Black Forest cake. These treasures are best enjoyed by forgetting about how many calories they contain. With two capuccinos, tax and tip, our bill came to $84.31. - David Israelson

The Star's daily restaurant review

TABLE FOR TWO The Grill Windsor Arms 22 St. Thomas St. 979-2341 Grilled meat and seafood dishes; seats 36; entrees $7 to $17.50; full licence; open noon to 2:30 p.m. Monday to Friday, 5 p.m. to 12:30 p.m. Monday to Saturday, 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Sunday; wheelchair access; no-smoking area; takes reservations; takes major credit cards.

One of the things you come to expect when talking to a good chef is that he won't talk much. Good chefs are usually temperamental and their skins are as thin as the onions they slice. Great chefs are usually worse.

But ask Wolfgang Puck a question, any question, and he'll answer it. He has no such aversion to talking to anyone about anything.

For example, ask him where he had dinner the night before.

"A place called Palmerston's," he says right away, without thinking twice about why the question was asked or whether he's being led into a trap. Most chefs think about these things. They become extremely uncomfortable. You can almost see them wishing to be back in their kitchens where no one would dare question the chef.

What did you think of it?

"I had a good meal (but) not too interesting. . . . Maybe they don't have someone to take care of the desserts. . . . I think it needs a little more precision or something, or a little more defined."

This is Wolfgang Puck talking, one of the most celebrated chefs in the United States, the owner of two of Los Angeles' highest flying restaurants, Spago and Chinois.

This is Puck talking about Palmerston's, a restaurant opened by one of Toronto's most celebrated chefs, Jamie Kennedy. Puck, who likes desserts, was served a chocolate waffle at Palmerston's he says he couldn't bite through. He liked the salmon trout with leeks and chanterelles, but the dessert threw him off.

Puck was in Toronto last week for a few days at the Sutton Place Hotel to recreate his Spago menu in the main dining room, Sanssouci. Puck had lunch in the hotel the day before I met him: "You know, they have nothing to eat here, either," he said.

It was billed as "Spago! At Sanssouci!" and the promotion went on all week. Puck, however, was there only the first three nights. He presided over the kitchen Friday through Sunday. On Monday, he went to New York. On Tuesday, he filmed segments for Good Morning America. He lost his immigration papers and flew back to Los Angeles, where, as luck would have it, he was booked for a department store talk. He moves around.

I interviewed him a few days before Spago food was unveiled at Sanssouci. How much was the Sutton Place Hotel paying the "chef to the stars"?

"I don't even know yet, I didn't send them a bill yet," he said. "But it's probably going to be too much."

Puck began cooking in Austria when he was 14 under the influence of his mother, a hotel chef. From there he went to France for eight years and worked at Maxim's in Paris and L'Oustau de Baumaniere in Les Baux-de-Provence until he headed to California in 1973 and wound up working at Ma Maison, the most famous L.A. restaurant at the time.

But "perfection gets boring," he says. But when he says it, it's with this sneaky grin. In fact, almost everything he says is with a sneaky grin. He's mischievous.

Three years ago, at the ripe old age of 33, he opened Spago (with numerous financial partners) and since then has opened its clone in Tokyo and the high-tech Chinese restaurant in L.A., Chinois.

His route to Toronto for one week was a little more difficult. Puck gets his lamb from a California farmer, but he couldn't bring it here. In fact, when he asked a Canadian official about it, "it was almost as if he was going to call up the border patrol and tell them I can't come in because I have no working permit and I'm not this and I'm not that. . . ."

Next he ran afoul of the liquor board. No, he was told, he couldn't bring with him 12 cases of wine including some '79 Chardonnays and 1970 private reserve wines.

"I thought we lived side by side, you know?"

He grows his own herbs and vegetables on a farm in Del Mar - baby vegetables. He wanted to use corn in Sanssouci but found we grow it too big here. We grow all vegetables too big here, he says.

He did, however, manage to find fresh herbs, something else he grows.

Puck's trade mark is pizza, but not what we know as pizza. It's topped with such things as duck sausage or prosciutto and cooked in a wood-burning oven. Sanssouci doesn't have a wood-burning oven.

The only thing Puck managed to bring with him was his goat cheese and three chefs to assist him - one from Dallas, his assistant pastry chef from Spago and another chef from Chinois, who was en route to Europe to work. I didn't have the guts to ask him if it was all legal.

So what was the result last week?

The menu lived up to its billing. The appetizers by themselves were testament to Puck's inventiveness: "California field salad with marinated goat cheese sauteed in olive oil . . . mandarin steak salad with ginger-orange vinaigrette . . . sauteed oysters with spicy salsa . . . sonoma salad with grilled baby lamb, sun dried tomatoes and Parmesan." The prices, $5.50 to $11, were reasonable. Four pastas were on the menu, the cover of which is a hand-drawn Puck original, too: lobster ravioli with Cabernet butter and julienne of vegetables; angel hair noodles with goat cheese, broccoli and thyme; black fettucini with grilled shrimps and herb butter; and pasta with smoked salmon and Sevruga caviar. The elegant black fetuccini, by the way, is created by making the pasta with cuttlefish ink.

His trademark pizza came three ways: with prosciutto, double-blanched garlic, goat cheese and thyme; with duck sausage, sun-dried tomatoes, wild mushrooms and red bell peppers; and with sour cream, smoked salmon and caviar.

Most remarkable on the entree list of eight items was the absence of any beef and the presence of only one meat dish, lamb. That is not unusual for Puck.

He had a steak on his Spago menu for one year. He prepared it simply, as he prepares all his meals, grilled with onions and a light yellow mustard that he makes himself. "Too many people asked for it well done, especially on Saturday night when they come from I don't know where because they made reservations two months ahead," he says. " And they want a steak well done. So finally I decided I'd better take it off (the menu). That way I don't have to fight with them."

Puck stuffed Italian parsley and blanched garlic under chicken breasts skin and grilled it. At Spago he serves the dish with sauteed garlic slivers. As a partial throwback to Ma Maison days, he served baby lamb with a "cream of garlic and basil." Calves liver came with red onion marmalade and mustard seeds, the veal chops with red wine vinegar butter and arugula, and grilled Florida snapper with "eggplant caviar and sweet onion herb vinaigrette."

"Everything we do is really prepared fairly simply," he says. "It's not complicated but, you know, with interesting flavors still, instead of having everything with heavy sauce, puffed pastry, stuffed or whatever. I used to do that 10 years ago and people liked it, too. But I got bored doing the same thing all the time."

What does Puck think of beautifully arranged food in the style of the culinary Olympics?

"I feel almost like 20 people touched my food. And it's never really hot.

"The food, I think, looks pretty when it's really fresh and it's really nice. If you buy really beautiful vegetables or interesting salads, you don't have to fan it out. I don't really like to arrange them. Like if you buy snow peas, one is laid out like that, and then the carrot slices like that . . . ." Puck shakes his head.

"So I think if I have vegetables that are simply sauteed or grilled and they're on the plate, you know, if the vegetables are nice they look so pretty anyway."

Puck was down at the Kensington Market bright and early each morning he was in Toronto to see what he could get fresh and what would achieve the good looks he seeks.

His eating companions have been everyone from U.S. President Ronald Reagan and all the big-name Hollywood stars to other culinary stars such as Paul Prudhomme, Alice Waters, Jacques Pepin (who was also in town last week at Bonnie Stern's School of Cooking). Name a star and Puck knows him. Many more know Puck.

So what exactly does he charge for these short appearances?

"It depends really on the people, you know? Like I did a party in Kentucky for the horse sale and the guy sold I don't know how many horses. The highest one went for $8 million and then he sold another 50 - $16 million worth of horses. So I sent him a bill. I told him, "Listen, I'm worth at least $5,000 a day. You know, if you can sell your horses for that much I charge you $10,000 for my labor.' So he was surprised.

"So it really depends. Many times I did it for free. I mean, I do more charities and other things. So many times I don't charge because it's for battered children and it's for this and it's for that. They always come over and say, "Can you prepare it in Zsa Zsa's house? Maybe we'll do it at Johnny Carson's or someone else's home. So then I cook for 100 people. It takes me two months to get the money back for the food alone and, you know, it's a lot of aggravation to get everything together, to move everything, if you don't do it in your own restaurant. So I think it balances out."

To say Puck's L.A. restaurants have steady clientele is a gross understatement. The majority are regulars eating two or three times a week. And many are the stars we're used to associating with haute Hollywood. Spago doesn't serve potatoes but when Billy Wilder comes in he gets sauteed potatoes because he loves them. Only Billy Wilder, though.

Make no mistake, Puck is a star himself.

"I don't feel any different now than I did 12 years ago. I still like to cook. I'm successful. I think I worked really hard to be successful. And a lot of things passed by which I didn't do. I will probably more regret it when I'm 60 than now - like going to movies or going to theatres or going skiing. I used to love to ski. I was an excellent skier. So far, in the 12 years in the United States, I went once for four days. I used to ski every day in Austria and each day there's something coming up. And the same thing here. I came here and I have to work so we start at 7 in the morning and we finish at midnight. You know, I don't need the money that they pay me here."

At the end of last week, I talked with Puck from Spago in Los Angeles. He'd left behind his assistant to carry on at Sanssouci to full houses every night. "Yeah, I liked it a lot. Next time I should have more time to plan, six months, you know, and then I'll come back." Try his recipes. And hope he'll come back.

Fat is not a four-letter word, but it might as well be. The tendency is to talk about it as if it were dietary pornography, not to be acknowledged in polite culinary company.

This would indicate North Americans are wise to the health hazards of consuming too much fat - particularly of some types of fat that can raise levels of cholesterol, which has been identified as a culprit in the development of cardiovascular diseases.

Yet, probably because fat is a flavor-promoting substance that makes food more satisfying and palatable, many people continue to slather butter and sour cream on baked potatoes, feast on large, well-marbled steaks and gobble tons of grease-soaked french fries, fried fish, fried chicken, doughnuts and assorted other fat-laden dietary disasters.

Fat has favorable attributes other than making food taste better. It's an essential nutrient in the human diet, and is the vehicle for distributing fat-soluble vitamins in the body. It also supplies a concentrated source of calories, and therefore energy. But because fat is more calorie-dense that other foods, it also is more fattening. This and its role in the cholesterol story have earned fat its unsavory reputation.

Heart disease

Both cholesterol, a waxy fat-like material, and triglycerides, a storage form of fat in the body, can be deposited on artery walls, leading to hypertension, heart attacks, strokes and other diseases of the circulatory system.

The fat-cholesterol relationship isn't all bad. Although what are called saturated fats can help increase cholesterol levels in the body, fats that are unsaturated can aid in lowering cholesterol. Unsaturated fats also seem to have an effect on lowering triglyceride levels in the body.

How can you distinguish saturated from unsaturated fats? Saturated fats usually are solid at room temperature and come mainly from animal sources. Unsaturated fats normally are liquid at room temperature. When they are hydrogenated (hardened), they can resemble saturated fats, making it difficult to distinguish them.

The fat in foods usually is a combination of saturated and two unsaturated types (polyunsaturated and monounsatured), but one kind normally is predominant, and fats are identified according to the highest concentration. Polyunsaturated fats are believed to have greater cholesterol-lowering properties than monounsaturated ones.

Among those foods with the highest concentration of saturated fats are meats, butter, lard, most cheeses, cream, chocolate, cocoa butter, coconut oil and palm kernel oil.

Examples of polyunsaturated fats are safflower oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil and sesame oil. Among monounsaturated fats are olive oil, peanut oil and most other oils made from nuts. On the market are a number of cookbooks that include guidelines and recipes for fat- and cholesterol-controlled cooking and eating. Among them is The American Heart Association Cookbook. Some of the book's recipes might not be low-calorie or even low-sodium, but they offer variety to those who are monitoring cholesterol intake and the types of fats they consume. Braised Pork Chops With Tomato and Garlic Sauce 2 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp oil (polyunsaturated) 6 centre-cut very lean pork chops, 1 to 1 1/2 inches thick 1 tsp finely chopped garlic

1/2 tsp crumbled dried oregano

1/4 tsp crumbled dried thyme

1/2 bay leaf

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 cup dry red wine 1 cup canned drained tomatoes, pureed 1 tbsp tomato paste

1/2 lb green peppers, seeded and cut in 2-by- 1/4 inch strips (about 1 1/2 cups)

1/2 lb fresh mushrooms, sliced or quartered

Trim fat from pork chops. In a large heavy skillet, heat olive oil until a light haze forms over it. Brown chops for 2 or 3 minutes on each side, then transfer to plate. Pour off almost all the fat. Cook garlic, herbs and salt in fat that remains for 30 seconds, stirring constantly. Add wine and boil briskly to reduce to about 1/4 cup, scraping in any bits of meat or herbs in pan. Stir in tomatoes and tomato paste.

Return chops to skillet and baste with sauce. Cover and simmer over low heat, basting once or twice, for 40 minutes. Heat unused oil in another large skillet, and saute green peppers for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Add mushrooms and toss with peppers for a minute or two, then transfer to pan with the chops. Cover and simmer 5 minutes. Simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, 10 minutes, or until pork and vegetables are tender and sauce is thick enough to coat a spoon heavily. If sauce is too thin, remove chops and vegetables and boil it down over high heat, stirring constantly. To serve, arrange chops on a platter and spoon vegetables and sauce over them. Makes 6 servings.

No preserving season is complete without a few jars of tangy relish. These sweet and sour blends of chopped vegetables are invaluable for topping burgers and hot dogs, and add a finishing touch to cheese and most cold meats. They're especially good with meat loaf, ham and corned beef.

To prepare jars for relishes, use the same procedure to sterilize jars and warm the lids for pickles. Read your recipe through and, before you start, make sure that you have enough perfect canning jars without nicks or cracks for the chosen recipe. Be sure to include a "taster" jar to store in the fridge. Wash the jars in hot soapy water, rinse and let air dry. Set on a metal tray or baking sheet with a metal canning funnel and a 1/2 cup (125 mL) metal measuring cup. This is used to scoop up the relish neatly. Heat in the oven at 225 degrees F for 15 minutes. Boil the disc part of the lid for five minutes. The disc must be new; make sure that the screw bands are rust free and not bent. Time both the oven sterilization and the disc boiling to coincide with the time the relish is ready to be scooped into the jars. Make sure that the relish is boiling hot when you pour it into the jars. Dorothy Grange's Green Tomato and Red Pepper Relish Dorothy Grange's garden is located by her farmhouse just outside the Huron County village of Auburn. Over the years she has grown just about every vegetable in her garden, and uses up the last of her harvest in relishes like this one. She also serves slices of green tomato, lightly coated with egg and crumbs and fried in butter. Grange grinds her vegetables using the medium or coarse disc; a food processor or hand chopping works just as well. 15 cups coarsely ground green tomatoes 3 cups coarsely ground onions 4 cups coarsely ground sweet red peppers 3 tbsp pickling salt Pickling Liquid: 2 cups cider vinegar 3 cups granulated sugar 2 tsp celery seed

2 tsp curry powder

Combine all vegetables in a large glass, plastic or stainless steel bowl. Sprinkle with salt, mix and let stand overnight in a cool place. Drain, rinse under cold water and drain again thoroughly.

Prepare 6 500 mL/16 oz canning jars and lids.

In a large saucepan combine vinegar, sugar, celery seed and curry powder. Bring to a boil; add drained vegetables and bring back to the boil. Reduce heat slightly and boil until vegetables are tender and the sauce slightly thickened, about 8 minutes. For a thicker sauce blend 2 tablespoons of cornstarch into the sugar before mixing with the vinegar and cook in the same way. Transfer to hot sterilized jars leaving 1/4-inch headspace. Cover with lids and tighten screw bands. Let cool; wipe, label and store away from light, heat and damp. Chunky Green Tomato and Cauliflower Mustard Relish This is an adaptation of the sweet mustard pickle recipe Mrs. J. R. Allan contributed in 1978 to the Church of St. Andrew and St. Paul's Favourite Recipes Old and New. That church is in Montreal, where early frosts leave quite a number of green tomatoes in the garden. Cut all the vegetables into chunks about

1/2-inch square. 16 cups chopped green tomatoes 8 cups chopped cauliflower 3 cups peeled pearl onions 2 1/2 cups peeled, seeded and cubed cucumber 1 3/4 cups chopped sweet red or green pepper cup pickling salt Sauce: 3 cups white distilled vinegar 3 cups firmly packed brown sugar 2 tbsp mustard seed 1 tsp celery seed

1/2 cup all-purpose flour 2 tbsp dry mustard 2 tsp turmeric

Combine all vegetables in a large glass, plastic or stainless steel bowl. Sprinkle on salt, stir gently and let stand overnight in a cool place. Drain, rinse thoroughly under cold water and drain again.

Prepare 7 (500 mL/16 oz) canning jars and lids.

In a large saucepan combine 2 cups of the vinegar, brown sugar, mustard seed and celery seed.

Blend together the remaining vinegar, flour, mustard and turmeric. Stir into the brown sugar mixture. Bring to a boil, stirring frequently. Add the vegetables, return to a simmer and cook, stirring frequently until vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes. Transfer to hot sterilized jars, leaving 1/4-inch headspace. Centre lids on jars and tighten bands. Let cool; wipe. Store away from heat, light and damp. Zucchini Relish Second only to runaway cucumbers that are hidden by leaves are giant zucchini. One day they're finger-sized; the next they rival eggplants. Use some of the larger ones for a handy tangy relish. To cut down on preparation time, chop the vegetables in a food processor. Aim at 1/4-inch pieces. 10 cups chopped zucchini 4 cups chopped onions 1 cup chopped sweet red pepper 1 cup chopped sweet green pepper

1/2 cup chopped hot red pepper cup pickling salt Pickling liquid: 2 1/2 cups white distilled vinegar 3 cups granulated sugar 1 tbsp dry mustard 1 tbsp turmeric 2 tsp celery seed

1/2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg

1/2 tsp freshly ground pepper 1 tbsp cornstarch

Combine all vegetables in a large glass, plastic or stainless steel bowl. Sprinkle salt evenly over top and mix together. Let stand in a cool place overnight; drain, rinse under cold running water and drain thoroughly.

Prepare 5 (500 mL/16 oz) canning jars and lids.

In a large saucepan combine 2 cups of the vinegar with sugar, mustard, turmeric, celery seed, nutmeg and pepper. Mix cornstarch into the remaining vinegar and stir into the spicy sugar and vinegar. Stir well; bring to a boil.

Add the well-drained vegetables to the saucepan; bring back to the boil, reduce heat and simmer until the vegetables are tender and the pickling liquid thickened, about 30 minutes.

Transfer to hot sterilized jars, leaving 1/4-inch headspace. Centre lids on jars and tighten the band. Let cool; wipe and store away from heat, light and damp.

"My sense of style has always been at the maximum," says retailer Catherine Hill, who owns Chez Catherine, Karl Lagerfeld, the new Alma and the soon-to-be opened La Scarpa shoe store in Hazelton Lanes. "It's not just learned. It's intuitive."

A former model and saleswoman at Eaton's in Montreal, Hill opened her first store, Chez Catherine, on Yorkville Ave. in 1972. She moved to Hazelton Lanes nine years ago. In 1978, she opened her second Chez Catherine store in Palm Beach, Florida.

"I wanted to present Toronto women with a total concept in the modern way of dressing," says Hill, who runs her elegant shops with her daughter, Stefanie Hill-Wexler.

Hill is ambiguous about her age. "The moment I reached 39, I started telling people that I was between 40 and 50."

Here are her fashion and beauty philosophies:

Skin care: Shiatsu massages in Milan, annual visits to the Green House spa in Dallas, Texas, and avoiding air conditioners are a few of Hill's secrets for healthy skin. She is strict about using sunscreen. "I never sit in the sun without it. Even when I'm sitting at an outdoor cafe, I dab on sunscreen."

Makeup: "Ever since women were liberated by Chanel, I have felt the pale face look was as dead as the crinoline," says Hill, who usually has a golden tan. "When I have a tan, I have no difficulty wearing clothes of any color."

The only cosmetic she wears to work is eye makeup. "I think that if you have good skin, you look younger without makeup. I think that nature gives you the best colors."

Hair: "I'm very unhandy with hair appliances. I just know how to brush my hair," says Hill, who wears the same hairstyle for every occasion. She gets her hair done once a week at Sula's on Wilson Ave., has it trimmed every two months and re-evaluates her hairstyle once a year. She sometimes changes the style to suit the current trends in fashion.

Hill started dyeing her dark brown hair blonde 19 years ago. "I decided not to tint my hair black. Anything black that envelopes your face gives you a very heavy look." Susan Martin at Scenario salon on Scollard St. tints Hill's hair.

Fashion: "I never owned a sloppy outfit in my life," says Hill, who once bought a pair of $40 jeans but found them too uncomfortable. "I always wear something with a dash of extravagance. I have to wear one focal point to tell people that I'm in fashion." Hill says she "adores" 75 per cent of the designer styles she sells.

Her working wardrobe is replenished with six or seven new designer ensembles every season, including Valentine dresses, Gianfranco Ferre suits and Chloe blouses. On a casual day, Hill might wear an embroidered cashmere sweater and suede pants.

She still wears a 10-year-old beaded taffeta gown by Paul-Louis Orrier to charity balls in Palm Beach.

Her fortunate friends sometimes get her discarded designer dresses after a season of wear.

Hill is enthusiastic about the latest gold rush in fall fashion. She is planning to wear a gold taffeta dress trimmed with sequins to a Vogue party in Milan.

Fitness: "I don't believe in heavy exercises," says Hill, who discovered the benefits of fitness 10 years ago. In Toronto, she swims regularly at the Four Seasons' Yorkville hotel. When she works at her store in Palm Beach, Hill goes swimming daily.

She tones her abdominal muscles at home with the aid of a slant board.

Diet: "My diet is very strict," says Hill, who deplores junk food and red meat. She promptly dieted away seven unwelcome pounds that appeared after she stopped smoking. Hill is 5 feet, 6 inches, and weighs 129 pounds. To maintain her trim physique, her daily diet includes a big breakfast of bran, papaya and Earl Gray tea, a minimal lunch of coffee and tuna fish salad, and a pasta dinner prepared at a Yorkville restaurant.

WARSAW - WARSAW - Ten thousand people were massed in the square and streets outside the large cream-colored concrete church of St. Stanislaw Kostka.

Inside the gates, representatives of a dozen cities held banners imprinted with red Solidarity slogans.

An honor guard of firemen and steelworkers stood at the flower-covered grave of Rev. Jerzy Popieluszko, murdered last year by government security police.

As they sang the patriotic song that has become a Solidarity anthem, 10,000 people - attending the monthly "Mass for the fatherland" - raised their hands in the "V" sign.

But victory is not in sight for these Poles who keep Solidarity - the free trade union formed in August, 1980, and banned in December, 1981 - alive in their hearts.

No victory

Solidarity, according to Western diplomats, may be alive morally but it is finished as an organization.

The Communist government of Gen. Wojciech Jaruzelski refuses any dialogue with the opposition and has put in place a series of laws designed to enhance its powers to clamp down on challenges to its authority.

Unlike the days of Solidarity when people expressed their opposition to government policies with massive strikes or marches, most Poles today respond with inaction. People are tired, afraid, apathetic; they see no prospects for change, only a threat to their personal well-being.

That does not mean support for the government: A recent poll showed support for the opposition and the government about even, with more than 50 per cent polled unwilling to say what side they were on. It's just that everyone is waiting for the next explosion, whether it be in six months, a year or five years.

New unions

As a further indication of continued opposition support, only five million people have joined the new government-sponsored unions compared to 10 million who were members of Solidarity. Seven million workers are outside the unions, thus depriving themselves of benefits such as access to vacation centres and housing.

In addition, the one million Communist party members - a third of the total membership - who quit after martial law was declared in December, 1981, have not returned to the fold.

Finally, in last year's local elections, only 60 per cent to 75 per cent of the voters cast ballots. The numbers are significant because Communist governments generally claim turnouts (and victories) of 98 per cent and more.

The government is hoping for an increase in participation in the Oct. 13 balloting for parliament to show support for its rule against another opposition call for abstention.

There is little hope the government's programs will solve the economic problems that sparked the worker protests leading to Solidarity's founding under Lech Walesa.

Lack of money

The economy is a disaster. The government continues its emphasis on unprofitable heavy industry and goods demanded by the Soviets. The lack of money for investment has led to serious decapitalization, with production halting for lack of machine parts and equipment.

The government talks about the need for high technology to improve low productivity, but without money to buy high-tech it increases work time instead. And some critics think technology can't solve Poland's problems.

"They still think if you add a microchip to the system, it will work," said one Communist who quit the party after martial law was declared in December, 1981. "It won't. It's a matter of people."

Jacek Maziarski, 48, who wrote on domestic affairs for the Communist weekly Polytika until he resigned, said the economy could not change, because "the nomenklatura (Communist jargon for the network of party and government office holders) will not cut off the legs of the stool they sit on."

Meanwhile, workers say life is becoming harder. Average wages are $120 a month, but a rationed pound of meat costs $1.20 to $1.80. Rents are about $20 for two or three rooms if one is lucky enough to have a government apartment and as much as $70 on the private market.

A man's shirt costs $7 and women's shoes $18. There is a second dollar economy for goods people can't get with Polish zlotys; people buy even boxed orange juice at government dollar stores.

Most moonlight

A second capitalist economy also thrives. To survive, people must moonlight, selling goods or doing repairs often with materials they steal from their plants and offices. Labor on the private market costs $12 a day, twice the government rate.

Solidarity sees its task in this period as preparing the population for the next crisis.

Janusz Onyszkiewicz, the national spokesman for Solidarity when it was legal, says the current strategy "is to build up an alternative society based on an independent press and culture, to expand the areas of free activity by organizing outside official structures, semi-officially, unofficially or clandestinely."

About 700 underground newspapers continue to circulate nationally or locally in plants and communities. Hundreds of clandestine books are published each year, with subjects ranging from recent Polish history to literature and philosophy.

Study groups have been established in plants and communities. Often the Roman Catholic Church is the shelter for such activities, with theatre performances and video showings being held in churches.

Sponsor courses

Churches also sponsor workers' "universities," two-year courses on history, ethics, trade unions and East-West relations.

Jozef Cardinal Glemp, at the top of the church hierarchy, is cautious, choosing not to align himself with Solidarity, but some local priests are more radical.

At the weekly Thursday night "Solidarity Mass" in Mistrzejowice, a steelworkers community in Krakow, the church is packed with supporters who have come from around the country. Activists with "Solidarnosc" T-shirts are given a special role in the service, and "Solidarnosc" is stitched in red on the altar cloth. Solidarity Masses are held in about 10 churches in major cities.

"We must fight as we have for 200 years to build up independent thinking," Maziarski says, referring to the fact Poland has not been independent in name or in reality for most of the past two centuries. "The program is not to lose your nerve or let yourself be stultified."

Most of that task is now being carried out by the youth. Even government spokesman Jerzy Urban admits the authorities are concerned about the lack of support among young people. And, Maziarski says, "I don't believe in a revolution, but the new generation is different."

Most free

Poland remains the most free state in the Soviet bloc. The legal independent Catholic press, with a circulation of 1 million, is unheard of elsewhere, and foreign publications arrive in the mail. Most people can get passports to travel to the West. But the rift between government and people has increased, along with the growing distance between peoples' expectations and reality.

Solidarity officially talks about the hope for compromise with authorities, but many people have lost their belief in internal reform or liberalization.

No one attempts to predict the future. Some count on the government's inability to manage the economy and say there will be new protests.

But Jacek Kuron, 51, one of the organizers of Solidarity, who has spent almost nine years in prison for dissident activity since 1965, said any new protests will be met with violence because the government knows it can no longer manipulate the people with promises of a better life.

No strategy

"The opposition can't have a strategy, because the power is not sensitive to the pressure of the society," Kuron said.

"The possibilities of any peaceful movement movement of the opposition are nonexistent. But it doesn't want to and can't use other than peaceful means."

Kuron said the only possibilities for change are war, economic catastrophe throughout the Communist bloc, or an agreement between the Soviets and the West.

He and others in Solidarity suggested that Moscow's need for economic relations with the West would force it to accept a harder bargain on liberalization in Eastern Europe if the West insisted on it.

They want U.S. President Ronald Reagan to raise this in November at the Geneva summit with Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev. * Lucy Komisar is a Star correspondent based in New York. She recently returned from two months in Eastern Europe.

Every few months, my 5-year-old Welsh terrier passes blood in a gelatin-consistency stool. I've taken her to several veterinarians, and the Ampicillin and Neo Diarrhetic they prescribed has helped. But they've been unable to give me an explanation for the problem.

I try to avoid dog food with milk or cheese in it, since I've been told some dogs find it hard to digest milk. Most dog food does contain some cheese by-products or milk.

Do you have any suggestions? My dog does not seem ill, and she gets all her shots and heartworm pills. Please advise. - Irene S.

A mucousy, gelatinous stool indicates that you may be dealing with a colitis problem. Oddly enough, dogs' colons are far more sensitive than ours. Consequently, blood in their stool from colitis is not very unusual. Since your dog has these attacks three or four times a year, I suggest that you put her on a monotonous diet of a well-balanced dog food, with no extra goodies or table scraps.

Another possible reason for your dog's attacks is stress. It could result from the presence of a lot of company, from being left alone for long periods of time, arrival of a new pet, etc.

I have no way of knowing how thoroughly your dog was checked out by the vets you visited. A thorough examination would include multiple stool checks, not just one, because whipworms can be a cause of colitis and do not necessarily show up on the first stool check sample. A thorough blood check must be done to rule out a number of underlying diseases that could be causing the symptoms. In some severe cases, scoping the lower bowel, x-rays or even exploratory surgery and biopsy are indicated! If you find that the cause is emotional stress, and that you cannot avoid its occurrence, put the dog on a very bland diet (such as boiled hamburger meat and rice) and give her a protective kind of diarrhetic medicine when you anticipate the problem. Rodent Ulcer

What is Rodent Virus and what causes it? Does a cat have to take medication for it all its life? Also, can it be passed on to other cats? - Martha C.

First, there is no such disease as Rodent Virus, but there is one called Rodent Ulcer and I assume that's what you are referring to. It is not contagious and is strictly a feline disease, which is fortunate for other species of pets. If not brought under control, Rodent Ulcer erodes a cat's skin surface, particularly in the area of the upper lip. It can result in the entire lip being wasted away right to the nostril openings. Rodent Ulcer is part of an unpleasant group of skin problems about which we have much to learn. We still don't know its actual cause, although there are several theories. One is that it's due to a specific hypersensitivity or allergy; another, that it's hormonal in origin. Fortunately, we do know how to bring it under control. The most common cure involves injections of cortical steroids such as cortisone. Some vets treat the condition with a hormone tablet called Ovaban, which should only be used in severe cases because of the great risks of side effects. Approved by Clayton MacKay, D.V.M., Ontario Veterinary Association.

Family Pet appears Tuesdays and Thursdays. If you have a question, write to Family Pet, Toronto Star Syndicate, One Yonge St., Toronto M5E 1E6. If your pet's problem is urgent or an emergency, consult your vet.

Ah, the restaurant wars! The battle to win over the public palate and purse continues. Casualties depart, reinforcements arrive.

Some, like stealthy guerrillas, launch surprise attacks; we only hear of them by word of mouth. Others, like Jardin des Artistes, enter the fray with fanfares and drums (in this case, a flurry of press releases).

Much money has been spent to convert the building at the corner of King and John Sts. into two restaurants served by a central kitchen. Jardin des Artistes is the formal dining room and the Stage Door Cafe is a bar and bistro that features live jazz in the evenings.

Both rooms are large and airy examples of pleasant post-moderism, with exposed bricks and wood and ductwork, pale walls and an interesting play of textures and details.

But it seems that pleasant rooms and a good kitchen are not considered enough nowadays. You have to have a concept, and so "cuisine moderne" was born.

Cuisine moderne? The chef's idea is to blend elements of haute and nouvelle cooking with his own unbridled creativity.

Blatant attempts at originality, in a world where pink and green Mohawk haircuts are considered somewhat commonplace, worry us. But reviewers are a brave lot, so we went to see what we would see and visited each room twice.

What we saw was a menu that involves such concoctions as smoked eel hollandaise, sweetbreads with papaya and pistachio cream, mint and horseradish creme fraiche, Campari sabayon and more.

Perhaps there are palates so jaded that they require such novelties to tempt them to nibble a small mouthful as they are forced to spend yet another evening in a restaurant. Our reaction was somewhat different.

"You know," I remarked to my friend, "I believe we're about to eat cuisine enceinte, not moderne."

"Pregnant food?"

"Indeed. The combinations seem only one step removed from the pickles and ice cream with sardines that an "infanticipating' Lucy Ricardo might have craved."

But the point is not to compare philosophies. We have few prejudices concerning food. Truth is in the tasting.

Escargot and goat cheese "baked in an herbal pear" ($5.50), with wine butter, is a confusing blend of flavors that is not enhanced by neither the raw nor cooked texture of the fruit, the insignificant amount of cheese or the totally superfluous escargot. A field salad with scallions and grapeseed oil ($3.95) is best described as lettuce.

With many dishes, conception and execution seem to be uneven and often at odds with one another. Asparagus mousse ($6) offers spoonfuls of a bland, slightly bitter substance, set adrift on a sea of creamy, pink crawfish coulis and garnished with a small, disquieting crustacean. Boudin of chicken breast ($4.95) are tiny, dry, grainy sausages the size of ping-pong balls (and just as tasty), served with lovely artichokes on a rich and appetizing red wine sauce.

But a veal chop stuffed with shrimp mousse ($18) was a very appealing entree. The lobster coulis and truffle sabayon translated into a wonderful, many faceted sauce of a delightful, rich and classical sort.

Many things were disconcerting. A salad of marinated escargots and scallops with a coriander champagne dressing ($7.75) was so small a luncheon entree that we assume the appetizer portion ($4.25) must be invisible to the human eye, and therefore a better choice.

Fettucine with shiitake mushrooms, veal dumplings, capers and chives ($7.95) showed off the kitchen's considerable skills. Unfortunately, these skills were devoted to making flavorful, exotic mushrooms taste like salty, canned soup. The veal dumplings, though light, were nothing more than meat balls.

For dessert, there are nice pastries such as a decadent chocolate-almond-pecan tart ($3.95). However, something especially to be avoided is the wild-honey-sweetened avocado mousse with pistachio-apricot sauce ($3.95). This has all the charm of strained baby food, while the sauce tastes like the result of accidentally putting birdseed through a food processor.

Jardin des Artistes may be just what Toronto has needed, if only to show us what can happen if we take "cuisine" so seriously that we forget about the logic of dining. Lunch, with a half litre of wine, tax and tip, cost $58.15. Dinner was considerably more. * The Stage Door Cafe is particularly well designed, with good acoustics and sight-lines. One can either enjoy the music or have a quiet conversation over dinner without disturbing others or being disturbed.

The wonderful sounds of the Fraser McPhearson Trio made the very slow, barely competent service quite bearable.

We will happily return to this room again and again. It's exactly the sort of place for an informal late evening we think the city has needed.

We munched on an excellent burger ($5.95) and a nice sandwich of charred, raw beef ($6.95), graced with a caper mayonnaise and a spicy, fresh chili sauce. With two glasses of wine, and some mineral water, our evening cost $30.15 plus a small tip. There is a $4 ($5 on Fridays and Saturdays) cover charge at the tables, but none at the bar. - Peeter Tammearu

OTTAWA - OTTAWA - An absurd little drama is unfolding 12 kilometres up the Ottawa River from Parliament Hill. In the Quebec bedroom community of Aylmer, they've just torn up a brand new sidewalk. It was one of those fashionable brick walkways, part of a provincially-financed redevelopment project.

Everybody liked it, but the Quebec government said it had to go - because the bricks were made in Ontario.

The provincial transport ministry has a made-in-Quebec regulation covering all construction materials. So now the town of 30,000 sits waiting, with an unsightly gash along its main street, for a new shipment of (more expensive) Quebec bricks. And the company in charge of the project is stuck with 17,000 square feet of unuseable Ontario bricks.

The Aylmer sidewalk controversy broke this month just as the Mulroney government was preparing to announce that it was asking the United States to begin talks on free trade. At first glance, the two events may seem unrelated. But there is a link.

Canada is seeking a new trading relationship with the United States, at least in part, because the government has decided that a country of 25 million is simply not a big enough place to do business. But the truth - as the Aylmer brick squabble demonstrates - is that there has never been a market of 25 million for many products. It is a national myth.

Take the telecommunications industry, for example. In a country the size of Canada, there should be three or four large, national wire and cable-making factories, according to economic experts. There are 16 small ones.

If a manufacturer wants a contract with one of the provincial telephone companies, he must establish a "regional presence," which usually means building a plant in the province. There is no incentive to build a facility which can serve the entire Canadian market, because all the other provinces have their own small, protected suppliers.

Prime Minister Brian Mulroney is right in saying that Canadian products have to be cheaper and better if this country is going to break into foreign markets. But competitive, state-of-the art products aren't likely to come out of inefficient, regional factories.

The brewing industry is another example of what happens when the provinces start carving up and protecting slices of the national market.

No one needs to tell Ontario beer drinkers about it. They found out during the recent brewery workers' strike. Under provincial law, it is illegal to cross over into Quebec or Manitoba to pick up Canadian beer. So Ontarians had to drink imported brands.

But even without labor difficulties, the market is riddled with restrictions. One province can keep out another's beer by imposing expensive packaging requirements, by taxing it heavily or simply by refusing to sell it. There are Canadian brands - such as New Brunswick's popular Moosehead and British Columbia's Old Fort - that are never seen in Ontario. Yet they can be bought in the United States.

Mulroney is right in saying that Canadian producers need access to new markets. But those new markets are often right at home.

When the Macdonald Commission toured the country, over the past two years, it heard time and again from frustrated producers who couldn't get their goods into neighboring provinces.

The meat packers complained of discriminatory marketing legislation. The electrical equipment companies told how hydro companies would not buy from out-of-province suppliers. The bus and subway makers said it was easier to sell their equipment abroad than to public transit commissions in other provinces.

And the economists told the commission the national market is so badly fragmented that economies of scale are impossible for many industries.

And that is only part of the problem, said Paul Kovacs, chief economist for the Canadian Manufacturers' Association. He recently headed a task force to find out how the association's 3,300 members felt about interprovincial trade barriers.

But the study team quickly got bogged down in the everyday politics of doing business in Canada.

The country's large manufacturers, seeking to develop a national market, complained bitterly about provincial restrictions. But the smaller companies - which make up the bulk of the association's membership - pointed out that preferential treatment from the provinces guaranteed their survival.

In the end, the working group decided that the manufacturing community was so split that it wasn't safe to publish any kind of a report. So it quietly passed its findings over to the Macdonald Commission, in the hope that the federal inquiry might tackle the tricky question of interprovincial trade.

The Macdonald Commission tried, but ended up shaking its head in dismay: "If sellers find that they cannot even count on access to the Canadian market," it asked, "how can we expect them to be aggressive competitors on world markets?"

Unfortunately, that is a question that too few Canadians - inside government or out - are asking as the Mulroney administration prepares to negotiate a new economic partnership with the United States.

The operating assumption seems to be that by combining the markets of 10 fiercely protective Canadian provinces and 50 equally protective U.S. states, you come up with a relatively open market of 262 million people. If only it were so easy.

As Ottawa and Washington prepare to work out their historic free trade pact, it is also time to begin thinking about how to make Canada work better as an economic union.

It is one thing to talk about becoming a competitive, forward-looking, highly skilled trading nation. It's quite another thing to behave like one. Ripping up sidewalks and indulging in interprovincial beer wars is not a great way to start.

* This is a column in which readers exchange useful tips. Readers should be aware, however, that The Star has not tested the ideas and that they may not be applicable for all readers or under all circumstances. * Send your suggestions to: Reader Exchange, The Toronto Star, One Yonge Street, Toronto M5E 1E6. Please write clearly on standard letter-sized paper and on one side of the page only. And please do not send self-addressed, stamped envelopes, as personal requests cannot be answered because of the volume. The most interesting tips will be published and a $10 prize will be awarded for the best of the week.

Last Saturday's Reader Exchange carried an erroneous tip that the life of a flashlight battery could be extended if it was wrapped in foil and stored in a dark place. The foil is a conductor and will drain power from the battery. In extreme situations, the combination could be a fire hazard. A better idea is to store the battery in any cool, dry place.

* * *

A $10 prize goes to Dorothy Claire of Willowdale who writes:

Put a strip of luminous paint around your flashlight handle and you'll be able to see it easily in the dark - which is usually when you need it.

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Don't discard your old rubber bath mats. They are easily made into floor mats for your car.

Don't discard your old nylons. They can be used for knitting booties, rugs, for tying your garbage papers and holding small pieces of soap at bathtime. They can also be used for straining paint and stuffing animal toys.

Pine cones and evergreen cones can be chopped down and put in your soil to keep weeds down. Dolly Houle, Midland

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If you have a dehumidifier, take advantage of the "free" water it gives you. Don't dump it down the sink. Water your plants (indoor and outdoor) with it. It is free of additives, plus it is room temperature and will not shock your plants.

During the winter, I save margarine and yoghurt containers for summer picnics. Salads, soft fruits, baby foods, finger foods, etc., can be carried in these containers and thrown away at picnic sites. Less to carry home.

I have a ring of an intricate design which tends to get dirty quickly. I have found a quick and effective way to clean it is to place it in a pot of undiluted vinegar and heat on the stove at low heat for about half an hour. The vinegar acts as a room deodorizer as well.

I store my dirty gardening gloves on my clothes line, hanging by the fingers. The dust and dirt gets blown out of them and when it rains, the dirt gets washed out, and I always know where they are.

Travelling and vacationing with young children? Use your empty disposable diaper container for a laundry hamper to bring home dirty clothes. Mrs. J. Alanko, Richmond Hill

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Use a vegetable scrubber to clean your metal grater, or anything that has grooves in it.

Use pinking shears to cut out patterns when sewing. That way, your seams will be finished as soon as they are sewn L. Cox, Mississauga

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To remove fresh blood stains from clothing, simply dampen a cloth in cold water, sprinkle with salt and gently rub stained area. In seconds, stains disappear leaving no discoloration. Mrs. J. Leach, Wilberforce

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When taking motor trips, I find it very useful to have a supply of towel wipes or "Wet Ones" as they are some times called, to remove stains and spills from clothing. I had a raspberry stain on my clothes while travelling in the car and found that one of the towel wipes completely removed the stain. Jean Milos, Toronto

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When preparing meals there are many times when it is necessary to wait for something to happen - or something that needs intermittent watching. At those times, I often do little chores that could become big ones if left for another time. For example, I polish silver - usually it's only the forks that require polish. Sometimes I clean out one shelf, or one drawer. It's not a good time to take on too much or the job is left half finished. It's also a good time to look through recipes to get ideas for another meal. Irene Gibson, Toronto

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Your budget can be stretched by buying powdered skim milk to use in sauces, puddings, hot chocolate or cream sauces. Try mixing it with whole milk for drinking. You'll love the savings.

A really handy kitchen gadget is an "oil pump" fashioned from a pump type, hand lotion bottle. Fill it with cooking oil and use whenever you need a small amount of oil. It is great for stir-frying.

Pain and stiffness in joints are improved by cooling with ice. A pack of frozen peas wrapped in a damp cloth is ideal.

Don't throw out baking soda that no longer effectively deodorizes your refrigerator. Even months old baking soda can be used to extinguish all types of fires (wood, grease, etc.). Simply stir up the old soda, pour it into a coffee can or similar container with a lid and place the can in a handy spot. If a fire breaks out, a few handfuls of baking soda tossed at the base of the flames will quickly cool things down. This is especially appropriate for use on cast-iron stoves or pans where the sudden cooling effect of water could crack or warp the metal.

To protect tomatoes from frost, place four water-filled milk jugs around each plant. At night, the plants are protected from frost by the heat stored in the water during the day. The plants don't overheat during the day as they usually do with other methods.

A two litre plastic soda bottle can be used to provide drip irrigation. Punch two small holes into the metal screw on top. Remove the hard plastic base, cut off the rounded bottom of the bottle and put the base back on to act as a cap. Sink the bottle upside down and firm the soil around it to hold the bottle in place. Remove the base to fill the bottle with water or fertilizer solution, then replace the base to retard evaporation. Eva Edmonds, Lindsay

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A handy tip when storing anything in the fridge that may drip, such as milk cartons, thawing meat, etc., is to wrap in a plastic bag before storing. This can save a lot of cleaning up. Mrs. T. Evans, Toronto

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I am a long time stamp collector and I must reply to the person who suggested peeling stamps from the paper "dry". Please do not do this as you will ruin collectables.

Always leave half inch of paper (envelope) around the stamp and soak them in the sink in water. Place the loosened stamps on newspaper face down. It only takes 15 minutes to dry. Then you can put them in the used envelopes until sorted. Paul Leach, Malton

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Can anyone tell me how to clean a needlepoint picture? It has quite a lot of white and has become slightly grey over the years. Ruby Weldow, Bobcaygeon

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Use tuna fish cans, opened at both ends for cutting biscuits and egg poachers. Cans with one end opened can be used for candles when camping, nailed through the bottom and attached to a dowel to hold glasses when picnicing or used as ashtrays. Lynne Harper, Welland

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Does anyone have a recipe for shake and bake for chicken? I used to have a recipe a few years ago but something is missing in the ingredients. Can anyone help? Aileen Simpson, Brampton

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If you forget your potatoes, carrots, stews, whatever, while cooking and they boil dry and burn on the saucepan, do not throw away. Lift pot off the stove and set in a sink of cold water. Lift out the ingredients. They will not have a burnt taste and can still be eaten. The pot will also clean easily after soaking in cold water. Eileen Barry, Peterborough

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To keep jam jars from getting a musty smell, wash and dry thoroughly and put a piece of newspaper in jars before putting the tops on. When ready to use, rinse with boiling water. Put newspaper in anything that is going to be closed for awhile like cookie tins, gallon jugs, crocks, even your dishwasher. Change newspapers often.

If there is a musty smell that you can't get rid of wash with soda and dry thoroughly. Mrs. R. Greco, Collingwood

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Use toothpaste and a cloth to clean white vinyl. Great for shoes and handbags. Inez Latimer, Mississauga

A Toronto woman admitted yesterday in an Ontario Supreme Court trial that she told a lie during a 1983 legal proceeding about where her husband kept a lottery ticket before winning the $600,000 jackpot.

Edna Ali testified yesterday she didn't tell the truth in October, 1983, when she told a court her husband Shariff kept the ticket with him until the draw.

The 46-year-old woman said her husband actually put the ticket on a dinette table in the kitchen and it remained there all week. The draw was held Aug. 15, 1981.

Milica Skarec is suing the couple and their two children, Joan, 23, and Dexter, 20, for half of the $600,000 Lottario jackpot, as well as interest.

Skarec claims Shariff was her lover for 16 months beginning in April, 1980, and the winning ticket was composed of numbers she selected. Shariff says the numbers on the winning ticket were chosen by his family.

When Skarec's counsel, J. David Sloan, asked whether she told a lie when she testified in 1983, she replied: "I would say so." When he asked her whether she was under oath, she said "yes."

In conflicting testimony yesterday, she told the court each member of the family had written on the form their three-digit choices for the ticket. But in 1983 she testified her husband had marked down all the numbers.

In other testimony yesterday, Edna told the court that Shariff was a Moslem and prayed every day in a standing position with his hands together in front of his chest. Shariff has also testified he is Moslem and eats only "halal" meat prepared in accordance with his religion. His son Dexter has said the family, including Shariff, is Presbyterian.

Edna, who prepares the family's food, said yesterday she makes separate meals for Shariff. But she was unable to explain to the court the dietary laws of Moslems.

"I don't know about the Moslem laws, sir. (Shariff) Ali would know that," she said.

Number 100 A and B Cowan Ave. in Parkdale is down the street from chic, renovated three-storey Victorian houses. But this boarding house might as well be worlds away - dilapidated, with paint peeling, porch sagging, old, torn furniture in disarray outside.

Inside, the grime, roaches, rats, debris, urine in open potties, and utter despair of its 16 roomers caused a health ministry official who visited months back to throw up on the front lawn.

There are rooms with no windows, no closets, no dressers, no sheets on torn mattresses. Piles of rags, books, broken glass, open food tins are everywhere. Roaches run rampant on kitchen walls and across the stove while an open pot cooks beans. The freezer is locked. Within, ham and bacon are the only meat ever cooked for tenants.

Worst victims

Roomers and boarding house tenants are the worst victims of Metro's critical housing shortage.

Tens of thousands of people live in cramped shabby rooms, pay high rent and have no protection from evictions or demands for more money.

"There's no doubt roomers are the most abused group of clients we see," says Joanna Kuras, a lawyer with Neighborhood Legal Services.

John Trainor, in charge of referral homes for Queen St. Mental Health Centre, says of discharged patients: "In a tight housing market, we have the group that goes from the bottom rung right off the ladder."

The Cowan Ave. building I visited is a tragic example of the problems facing transients, former psychiatric patients and the chronically unemployed. Last July 10, Amiti Mizrahi, a 28-year-old former psychiatric patient, died here. An inquest has been called into his death and the circumstances of where

it happened, says Metro's head coroner, Dr. Jim Young.

"The coroner who investigated, Dr. Margaret Milton, felt the circumstances need to be explored publicly, as does the question of where psychiatric patients are discharged and whether this is adequate," Young said.

Work orders

Last April, there were 21 work orders against the building. They are noted as "all completed, with the exception of the removal of debris," according to one city official. On Aug. 21, the premises were referred for public health inspection.

Yet I saw plaster fallen from the ceiling, holes in walls, broken toilets and debris that made walking in the hallways dangerous. Hydro is turned off and tenants some days live in semi-darkness.

Lester Heward lives here. He is crippled and walks with difficulty but he is so weak he rarely leaves his bed. "I've lived here 10,000 years," he sighs.

"The place is unfit for human habitation," says Trainor. The Cowan Ave. house is not on his referral list for patients, though some end up living there. "There's so little housing in Metro that you can't close that place down. These are helpless, sick people that live there."

The boarding house had its licence renewed last June 18 until June, 1986. It is owned by Mohammad "Mike" Akram. It was bought for $99,000 in December, 1983, with $57,726.58 cash and a mortgage of $41,273.42.

"Active file'

Akram is owner or part-owner of three other buildings in Metro - this one is on the "active file" with city building and public health departments.

The Parkdale area alone has some 200 boarding houses, licensed and unlicensed, with 15 to 40 people in each. Trainor says "600 to 700 people live in homes run poorly."

Landlords charge according to the amount of public assistance cheques - about $245 monthly for welfare people (from their $295); $335 monthly for family benefits recipients (from $419) - a difference of $90 for two people in the same room.

Landlords insist the cheques go to them first (they get tenants to sign that agreement). So people are handed back only a meagre amount to live on for the month ahead, and some even lose that sum if the landlord decides to take extra.

Marion Merritt, 52, for one, gets $69 a month back from her $419 cheque. "I won't have enough money to get my winter clothes back from the cleaners."

Richard Marlett, 40, gets $16 a week to spend on cigarettes, coffee and car fare with nothing left over.

Scams rampant

Other scams are rampant. Pat Capponi, a Parkdale Activity and Recreation Centre community worker, tells of one landlord "selling" her tenants to another, moving people out, then converting her place to a "rooming house." She charges the same rent now but without food.

Boarding house tenants told me of sexual assaults by landlords; of medications handed out excessively to keep people docile; of showers capped so they can't be used. One woman said her landlord helped make out her income tax form, then kept her rent rebate.

Yet the homes are so full, Dabid Blank, 49, can't find a room. He's an ex-psychiatric patient and calls himself a transvestite. Community workers say he's harmless and just wants a place to live. This summer, High Park was his home until police found he carried a knife - "for my food and if anyone threatens me." He was arrested on a weapons charge and went to jail.

Younger people are joining the boarding house ranks. Says Kevin Gagnier, 22, who has shared a room with two other men for three years. "I can't take uprooting. Even a place like this becomes home."

Capponi, an ex-psychiatric patient, calls young roomers "the new crazies - hospitals don't keep them, their parents aren't talking to them, they have no jobs, nothing to do."

Few solutions

David Littman of Parkdale Activity and Recreation Centre, a drop-in centre for ex-psychiatric patients, says the numbers of visitors from nearby boarding homes grew from 30 a day in previous summers to 100 a day this year.

There are few solutions so far. One is Supportive Housing Coalition for people recovering from mental health problems. So far there are eight group homes in Metro that house some 350 people, with varied staff services depending on need.

Last year, psychologist Reva Gerstein documented an immediate need for an estimated 1,800 discharged psychiatric patients, a figure experts now estimate at more than 2,000.

The rooming house scene is a similar shambles, affecting tens of thousands of tenants. (Gerstein's report noted 698 licensed and 330 unlicensed rooming and boarding houses in Toronto alone in 1983.)

They pay $60 to $70 a week, mostly out of welfare and disability pension cheques, for rooms with a bed, barely enough space to walk in, maybe a fridge and hotplate tucked into a closet-like area.

United Rooms on Shuter at Jarvis Sts. is a dreary warehouse for men down on their luck.

Visibly dejected

John Collard, 53, lives here. He says he was a truck driver for 30 years, then a serviceman, and lived with his family in North York. Now he's unemployed, divorced, visibly dejected and can find only temporary work, by the day.

He pays $250 a month for his room - without hotplate, bedsheets or window covering. He has a bed and a fridge. Tinned food and crackers stand on his one dresser top.

Collard receives $387 on medical welfare, an amount intended to boost his diet. At $137 left for a month, it isn't easy. "You can't buy too much after you pay for car tickets to look for a job. I eat at the free food places when I can. It's hard for me to live here because of what I had before."

Collard shares two bathrooms with some 15 men who live off the dark hallway on his floor. Upstairs there are as many more. The only bath on his floor was broken for a week, and fixed the day before the welfare cheques arrived.

"Because of the tight economy, the rooming house market now has more competition from single working people," says Carmel Hili, a community worker at the Christian Resource Centre. "Landlords can afford to be choosier. These people - the unemployed, transients, winos - have nowhere else to go."

Some brutality

Hili, who visits people in 25 rooming houses in the Parliament-Dundas Sts. district, says, "There is brutality in some" from tough superintendents. Hili tells of a man thrown outside in the snow from his rooming house, because he was drinking, and locked out four hours. He lost his fingers.

Yet demand is so high even for bug-infested, crowded places, landlords can neglect both premises and tenants, and still turn a profit.

In one Sackville St. rooming house live an elderly couple so disabled - he's spastic, can barely walk or talk; she has heart and lung problems - their room is a chaotic litter of clothing and an overpowering urine stench. Their bathroom is in the basement and shared with other roomers.

Hili says they need subsidized housing with support staff. Instead, the only home they can get into and afford is known on the street as a place that will take anyone. "There's always drinking and thieving and police there."

Next door, Ralph and Marion Shea live in a more stable house where rent is cheap but they get little for it. Together, their disability cheques come to $667 monthly. They pay $180 a month for a single room with bed and fridge and a table top to store food.

One chair

They invite a visitor to sit on the bed. Marion peels vegetables bent over a pot on the floor, sitting on the only chair. Their stove is in a cupboard space with clothes hanging overhead. Dishes are washed in the bathtub. The Sheas have lived here for seven years.

"I put in for Ontario Housing six months ago. We need more room and would like a cheaper rent. We're on the waiting list," Shea says.

Frederick Freedstone, 65, and his common-law wife Luba have lived here seven years, sharing a bathroom with another man. Their walls were painted when they moved into the room, and never since. Their window opens on to a porch filled with old, broken furniture so that daylight barely seeps inside.

"There's no economic reason for the rooming house situation to be so bad," says Michael Meron, a former real estate investor who had financial losses and now lives in a room. "The rate of return per square foot is higher than that which prevails in all areas of real estate except, perhaps, the Eaton Centre."

Meron explains that a typical room is smaller than 10 by 10 feet but rents for more than $200 a month. That's $2,400 a year for 100 square feet, or $24 a square foot. "You can rent prime office space downtown for far less," he notes.

No rights

The problem is roomers have no rights to complain. They are not specifically listed in landlord-tenant laws - leaving them powerless to go after their rights.

Clinic lawyer Joanna Kuras deals with roomers' problems. "They are missing all protections," says Kuras - a fact noted by Gerstein in her report, which called for the inclusion of rooming and boarding house tenants in provincial legislation.

Meanwhile, some landlords exploit tenants, evict them without notice or threaten evictions, raise rents suddenly, and use strong-arm tactics with people who argue or refuse to pay.

Roomers live with the fear that, if they lose their address, they also lose their welfare cheque until they relocate.

"We've seen rent increases as high as $50 a week; landlords who won't let people have their welfare cheques if they won't pay higher rent; rooms rented out that belong to someone who's away for four days. They can't even get their belongings when they return," Kuras says.

"Goon squads'

Rooms are rented with a month's deposit up front; a person evicted within days and their money not rebated. There is talk of "goon squads" who enforce evictions.

Rooming and boarding houses are not all licensed. No one knows of them if no complaints are lodged, Kuras says. Those that have no licence often don't meet building, fire and public health standards, so people live in squalor and dangerous conditions.

"These people are on limited incomes. They're vulnerable to any threat and easily coerced. They're too frightened to take anyone to court and charge them with illegal acts."

Not Eleanor Foland. She has charged Pembroke St. landlord Zane Sexsmith with illegal eviction. Sexsmith owns a number of rooming houses in the Pembroke-Gerrard Sts. tenderloin district.

She claims that, after she lived there four years on a medical disability allowance, her rent was suddenly raised last March 27 from $190 to $285 and she was moved out forcibly a few days later. A trial in Provincial Court was put over until November.

TOMORROW: Housing crunch batters seniors and middle-class.

The beef industry - from producers to packers to retailers - must start listening to what consumers really want, say two University of Michigan researchers studying the meat industry.

"You're merchandising meals, not pieces of anatomy," professor John Allen told a seminar in Toronto, sponsored by the Beef Information Centre of the Canadian Cattlemen's Association, the Canadian Meat Council and the Retail Council of Canada.

About 170 participants representing all levels of the beef industry from across Canada attended the conference, Strategies for Success, held to find innovative ways to bolster beef sales.

Allen, along with professor Thomas Pierson of the food systems economics and management program at the university in East Lansing, Mich., presented some findings of their ongoing study initiated in 1984 for the Beef Industry Council of the U.S. National Live Stock cct and Meat Board.

They cautioned that determining what consumers want is not as easy as it sounds.

"There is no such thing as "the consumer,' " Pierson said. "Think in terms of consuming segments."

Several studies indicate one-third of all shoppers have health-related concerns about beef, especially in regard to fat and cholesterol, they said.

Solutions range from changing breeding and feeding programs, to packaging beef in new ways at the packer and retail levels to providing objective nutritional information directly to shoppers, they said.

For instance, one U.S. retailer combined a government-sponsored meat nutrition program, which provided information on calories and nutrition in various cuts of meat, with a new Lean'N'Trim meat counter featuring meat trimmed of all visible fat, and saw beef sales increase by 30 per cent at a time when they were dropping elsewhere.

It is a common mistake in the beef industry, however, to think health issues are the only problem, Allen said. Work must be done on many fronts, including quality standards, packaging, in-store service, taste and variety, price and value and convenience for the customer in purchasing, storing and cooking.

The Star's all-seeing culinary sage, Professor F. D. Processor, called yesterday. In a voice that could only be described as hysterical, this is what he said:

"Within two weeks, companies will record the lowest productivity levels ever and absenteeism will have hit an all-time high - because they'll all be over at my place watching the Blue Jays! My doctor has cancelled surgery, the judge next door has adjourned court, and my bank manager has been walking around for weeks mumbling things like "chuck her in there, you fireball kid!' Oh, why did I buy that big screen TV?"

I could heard the professor blowing his nose into a handkerchief: "It's Jay Fever! Arrrrg! I won't be able to buy a potato chip or pretzel at the corner store. A run on my favorite beer is a certainty. It's Jay Fever! It's going to overwhelm us all. And it will last weeks. Weeks! How can I feed people for weeks! You have to help me prepare for the manic onslaught!" The phone went click.

Since the professor has never been wrong, his words were frightening. But too late. Jay Fever had already struck by the time he called. Sorry. There is no cure. The only thing to do is suggest ways of getting through it all as comfortably as possible. As the American League playoffs progress, the strain will become almost unbearable. If any one of the Jays drops a fly ball, it could be fatal to anyone watching the game in your living room. The only prevention is to keep up your guests' strength.

Normally, we would suggest four, five or six recipes that are simply made and simply served so you won't have to drag yourself away from the new wide-screen TV in the living room. But Jay Fever is the most serious affliction that has ever swept the city. And, as the professor said, it could last weeks. So we have a mini cookbook today of baseball-watching snacks, and serious feeds. You'll never have to wonder where your next meal is coming from. It's coming from The Star. It's the least we could do.

You're welcome, professor. This recipe comes from Cooking Texas Style, by Candy Wagner and Sandra Marquez, a new paperback cookbook just released by Random House ($4.95). The recipe has been tested by Star home economist Mary McGrath. Chili Nuts Preparation time: 10 minutes Baking time: 1 hour 4 tbsp peanut oil or butter 1 lb (500 g) raw shelled peanuts 4 tsp chili powder

3/4 tsp paprika 2 tsp salt

1/2 to 1 tsp cayenne pepper

Place oil or butter in a large, shallow baking dish. Add peanuts and toss to coat evenly. Spread in single layer and bake in a preheated 300 degree F oven 30 minutes. Stir occasionally. Combine remaining ingredients. After nuts have baked 30 minutes, remove from the oven, sprinkle with seasoning mixture, and toss well. Return to oven, bake 30 additional minutes. Allow to cool and drain on paper towels. Makes 16 servings, about 147 calories each. Cheddar Bacon Popcorn The Star suggested this popcorn recipe for Great Grey Cup Grub last year. It comes from Gourmet magazine. 4 slices of bacon, chopped 1 tbsp vegetable oil

1/2 cup popcorn kernels

1/4 lb sharp Cheddar cheese, finely grated

Salt and pepper to taste In a heavy skillet, cook bacon over moderate heat, stirring until crisp. Transfer it to paper towels and drain. Pour 3 tablespoons of bacon fat into a stove top popcorn popper or a deep, heavy saucepan fitted with a loose lid. Add vegetable oil and heat the mixture over moderately high heat until it begins to smoke. Add popcorn kernels and shake the pan, covered with a lid, until the sound of popping diminishes. Pour the popcorn immediately into a large baking pan and toss it with the cheddar and crushed bacon. Salt and pepper to taste. Heat popcorn in a preheated 250 degree F oven for three to five minutes or until the cheddar has melted. Makes 2 1/2 quarts, about 61 calories per 1/2 cup. Sassy Chicken Fingers This recipe is from Kay Spicer's Light And Easy Cooking (Grosvenor House, $12.95) and was introduced by Star home economist Mary McGrath for the April 10, 1985, Food section. Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 25 minutes 3 boneless chicken breasts, about 375 grams ( 3/4 lb) 2 tbsp 2 per cent yogurt 12 soda crackers, crushed 1 tsp dried thyme

1/2 tsp dried marjoram

1/4 tsp curry powder Salt and pepper to taste Sauce:

1/2 cup 2 per cent yogurt 2 tbsp ketchup 2 tbsp finely chopped celery 2 tsp soy sauce

1/2 tsp finely chopped garlic, optional

Freshly ground pepper and salt to taste Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Trim chicken breasts of any visible fat. Cut each breast into eight even strips. In a bowl combine chicken strips and yogurt. Stir gently to coat each piece of chicken. In a shallow plate or dish, combine cracker crumbs, thyme, marjoram and curry. With a fork, place each chicken strip in crumbs. Place on a cake rack set in a baking pan or dish. Repeat with each chicken strip until all are coated and lined up on the rack in a single layer. Bake 25 minutes or until crumbs are lightly browned and crisp. Remove from oven and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. To make sauce, combine yogurt, ketchup, celery, soy sauce and garlic. Salt and pepper to taste. Serve as a dip for the chicken fingers. Makes 24 chicken fingers. Tourtiere tarts Star food columnist Elizabeth Baird came up with another winner for the Oct. 31, 1984, Food section from her cookbook Elizabeth Baird's Favorites (Lorimer, $12.95). Tested by Mary McGrath in the Star's kitchen, these tarts are small renditions of the famous French-Canadian meat pie and can be made ahead and frozen until the World Series demands a more substantial munch. Preparation time: 55 minutes Baking time: 20 to 25 minutes 1 kg (2.2 lbs) ground lean pork 1 1/2 cups finely chopped onion (2 medium) 1 large clove garlic finely chopped 4 tsp chopped fresh sage or 4 tsp crumbled dried 2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp celery seed

1/2 tsp freshly ground pepper

1/4 tsp cloves

1/2 cup water 2 cups finely diced or mashed potatoes (3 medium, boiled)

Pastry for 26 double crust tarts (equivalent of 4 single-crust pies)

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. In a large saucepan combine pork, onions, garlic, sage, salt, celery seed, pepper, cloves and water. Bring to a boil and cook, uncovered, stirring to break up meat, until half the moisture has evaporated and the meat has lost its red color. Cover, reduce heat and simmer 45 minutes. Cool to room temperature, then tip pan and skim off excess fat. Blend in potatoes. Adjust seasoning.

Line 26 3-inch tart tins with pastry. Fill with pork mixture, mounding it if necessary, and cover with a small round pastry cut to fit just inside tart top. Prick a small steam hole in top pastry. (Freeze at this point if making ahead.) Bake 20 to 25 minutes or until pastry has browned and the filling is bubbly. Serve hot. Surprise Burgers On Garlic Rolls This recipe for a surprising burger comes from Easy Cooking Step By Step (Barron's, $29.95). Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 10 to 12 minutes 2 lbs (1 kg) ground chuck 2 tsp salt

1/4 tsp pepper

1/4 tsp each: dried marjoram and sage 4 Kaiser rolls

1/4 cup butter or margarine 1 clove garlic, finely chopped

1/2 tsp onion salt cup ketchup 1 tbsp prepared horseradish Fillings: (one of the following): 4 thin slices of onion 4 slices of cheese (Cheddar, Swiss or blue) 8 green or black olives, sliced

1/2 cup well-drained sauerkraut

Mix beef, salt, pepper, marjoram and sage. Divide meat into 8 portions. Shape into patties about 1/2 inch thick. Top 4 patties with desired fillings. Cover with remaining patties, pinch edges together. Place burgers 6 inches above gray coals; grill for 5 to 6 minutes on each side. Split rolls and place cut side down on grill rack; grill 2 minutes. Melt butter; stir in garlic and onion salt. Brush rolls with garlic butter. Place burgers on bottom of roll. Mix ketchup and horseradish; spoon on burgers. Replace top of roll. Serve at once. Makes 4 servings, about 445 calories each with cheese filling. The beauty of stews and casseroles is that they can be made ahead and frozen until 20 of your most intimate Blue Jay friends arrive on your doorstep. Pork And Apple Stew With Rosemary The recipe first appeared in The Star in Elizabeth Baird's column last Jan. 9.

1/4 cup oil 1 chopped onion 5 garlic cloves cup all-purpose flour 1 1/4 tsp salt

1/4 tsp freshly ground pepper 1.4 kg (3 lbs) lean pork cut into 1-inch cubes 2 cups apple juice 2 tsp dried crumbled rosemary 1 tbsp Dijon mustard 1 tbsp cider vinegar 3 cups apples in thick slices

2 cups rutabaga in 1/2-inch cubes (half a medium/large rutabaga)

In a large frying pan or heavy-bottomed casserole, heat 1 tablespoon of oil over medium setting. Add onion and garlic and fry until tender, about 5 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and reserve. In a sturdy bag combine flour, salt and pepper. Shake the pork, about a quarter of the cubes at a time, in the flour. Add another tablespoon of oil to the pan and brown pork, a layer at a time, over medium-high heat, adding more oil if necessary. Add browned pork to onions.

Pour apple juice into pan, increase heat to high and, using a wooden spoon, work brown bits off the bottom of the pan. Return meat and vegetables to the pan and add rosemary, mustard and vinegar. Add apples and rutabaga to the stew, mix well, cover and bring to a boil. Transfer to oven preheated to 350 degrees F and bake until meat is fork tender, about 1 1/2 hours, stirring periodically. Taste and adjust seasoning. Makes 6 to 8 servings. Moussaka This recipe, complete with a different spelling - they spell it mousaska - comes from the San Francisco restaurant Xenios, owned by Peter Stavros. His parents, Jim and Stella, opened the first Greek restaurant in California, The Golden Peacock. Preparation time: 45 minutes Cooking time: 35 to 50 minutes 4 large eggplants Olive oil 2 large onions, diced 2 lbs (1 kg) ground lamb

1/2 bunch parsley, chopped 2 large tomatoes or 2 tbsp tomato paste 1 to 1 1/2 tbsp salt 1 tbsp black pepper 1 tbsp chopped fresh mint or 1 tsp dried mint 6 eggs, beaten 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese 4 cups milk 4 tbsp butter

2 tbsp cornstarch

Slice each eggplant lengthwise into 4 slices. Remove skin if desired. Fry or bake in oil until browned. Place cooked eggplant on paper towels to absorb excess oil. Set aside.

In a deep frying pan, heat 3 tablespoons of oil. Fry onions until limp and brown. Add lamb, parsley, chopped tomatoes or paste, salt, pepper and mint. Simmer uncovered for 20 minutes; remove pan from heat. Add 3 eggs and 1/4 cup cheese; blend well together.

In a separate pan, bring 3 cups milk and the butter to a boil. Dissolve cornstarch in remaining cup of cold milk. Stir into heated milk. Stir well and remove from heat when mixture begins to thicken. Add 1/4 cup of cheese and remaining eggs to milk mixture. Stir well. Line the bottom of a 14-by-10-by-4-inch pan with half of the eggplant slices. Spread evenly with lamb mixture. Cover with layer of eggplant slices. Pour milk mixture evenly over entire surface of eggplant. Sprinkle with remaining cheese. Cover with foil and bake in a preheated 350 degree F oven 15 to 20 minutes. Remove foil, cook until top is golden, about 20 to 30 minutes. Makes 12 servings, about 520 calories each.

Some people complain about the taste of leaner meat.

Because fat is a primary carrier of flavor and juiciness, leaner meats often seem drier, tougher and bland. Steaks, particularly, can be a disappointment when they come sizzling from the grill but are too tough to chew.

As beef cooks, water and fat leave the meat, says the California Beef Council in its nutrition and recipe booklet, Light Cooking with Beef.

It suggests that if you are using meat that is low in fat, such as a well-trimmed piece of top round, you should watch cooking times carefully to avoid losing the juiciness that makes beef delicious. It also suggests cooking beef to rare or medium rare, and never more than medium, to prevent a dry texture. Here are more tips that will help keep lean beef juicy: * Steaks should be placed in a preheated broiler or over hot coals, so the exterior browns quickly and holds in the juices; * They should not be salted until the surfaces have been browned. Salt tends to delay browning and draws out moisture. Less tender cuts of beef, such as round steak, benefit from a fat-free tenderizing marinade.

The new leaner pork should be cooked at lower temperatures for a shorter amount of time, says Alethea Sparks of the National Pork Producers Council.

"We used to say to cook pork for 40 minutes a pound," she says. "Now we say to cook it at 325 (degrees F) for 30 to 35 minutes per pound. The meat is less fatty than it used to be, but it tastes just as good."

Lamb also can be low in fat.

As with other animals, lamb has become leaner in recent years. It has very little internal fat; nearly all its fat is outside and can be trimmed. And because the meat comes from a young animal, it's naturally tender.

It can simply be roasted, broiled or grilled for a low-fat entree.

Mustard pickle makers such as Margaret Kennedy of Islington will be happy to see this recipe. As you can see from the method, it's an old-fashioned recipe and June Fines of Newmarket says her family has been making it for years. June Fines' Prize-Winning Mustard Pickles 1 sweet green pepper 1 sweet red pepper 3 pints silverskin onions (1 1/2 lbs) 2 quarts small firm gherkins 2 small heads cauliflower

1/2 cup salt Water

3/4 cup all-purpose flour cup dry mustard 7 cups cider vinegar 2 3/4 cups brown sugar 1 1/2 tsp turmeric

2 1/2 tsp mustard seed

Remove seeds from peppers, cut in strips. Peel onions, wash gherkins (small cucumbers). Break cauliflower into small flowerets. Sprinkle with salt. Cover with cold water. Let stand overnight. In the morning drain vegetables thoroughly and place in a scalded crock or other earthenware container. Blend flour, mustard and 1 cup vinegar to make a paste. Heat remaining 6 cups vinegar; add brown sugar and turmeric. Add mustard paste. Cook in a double boiler until thick and smooth, about 20 minutes. Add mustard seed; pour sauce over vegetables. Let stand 3 months before using. Tamale Pie Tomatoes and peppers are still a good price, so this recipe for Nellie Marshall is well-timed. 3 cups water 3 1/2 tsp salt 1 cup cornmeal 3 tbsp shortening 1 medium onion, chopped 1 small green pepper, chopped 1 lb ground steak

1/2 tsp chili powder

4 medium tomatoes, sliced

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Add 1 1/2 teaspoons salt to water and bring to a boil. Slowly add cornmeal in a steady stream, stirring constantly. Cook over low heat, stirring often, for 10 minutes. Remove from heat.

Melt shortening in a frying pan. Add onion and pepper, cooking until limp but not brown. Add ground meat and cook until brown. Stir in chili powder and remaining salt. Remove from heat. Spread half the cornmeal mixture over the bottom of a medium-sized casserole. Cover with a layer of tomatoes, then add all the meat mixture. Add remaining cornmeal. Top with remaining tomatoes. Bake 25 minutes. Makes 4 servings. E. Craig's Vegetable Marrow Conserve Reader E. Craig of Toronto likes to use ginger, lemon and a healthy pinch of hot pepper when making Marrow Conserve and offers the recipe to Mrs. Fraser. 6 lbs marrow 6 lbs granulated sugar 8 oz preserved ginger, chopped Juice and chopped rind of 3 lemons

1/4 tsp cayenne pepper Peel and cut marrow in cubes. Cover with sugar and let stand overnight. (Less sugar may be used). Put in a saucepan with remaining ingredients. Cook gently until clear, about 1 1/2 hours. Stir often. Spoon into hot, sterilized jars. Seal with melted paraffin wax. Turkish Delight

Lynne Harper sent this recipe from Welland after she noticed Jenny Gervais' request for Turkish Delight recipes. 3 tbsp unflavored gelatin 1/2 cup cold water 2 cups granulated sugar 1/2 cup hot water Grated rind and juice of 1 orange Grated rind and juice of 1 lemon Food coloring

Soften gelatin in cold water. Combine sugar and hot water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil; stir in softened gelatin. Boil gently 20 minutes. Remove from heat, add rind, strained juices and coloring. Pour into a pan that has been rinsed with cold water. When firm cut in squares, using a knife dipped in hot water. Poll in icing or fruit sugar. (From Five Roses Guide To Good Cooking, 1938). * Thelma Hanlon writes from Azilda to say she's interested in recipes for cakes, cookies and muffins made with zucchini. Any recipes that use apples or pumpkin would also be appreciated. Mrs. E. Lee of Toronto also says she could use a recipe for zucchini muffins. * Frances Perry of Willowdale would like to know if anyone has a recipe for mushroom pie.

These recipes are not tested in The Star kitchen. Send requests and recipes to Recipe Exchange, Star Test Kitchen, Toronto Star, One Yonge St., Toronto M5E 1E6. We regret that requests cannot be taken over the phone and that letters cannot receive a personal reply.

LONDON, ONT. - LONDON, Ont. - A special team of provincial and federal health experts is to investigate a deadly diarrhea epidemic at a London nursing home, Health Minister Murray Elston says.

The outbreak at Extendicare London has claimed the lives of 12 elderly female residents in the past 10 days.

The latest victim died in hospital yesterday morning. Her name and age were not released by Extendicare or the Middlesex-London district health unit in order to protect the family's privacy, Elston said at a news conference.

Four new cases

The health minister told reporters that four new cases of the infection were diagnosed over the weekend but no new cases have been reported in the past two days.

Although the new cases may be the result of an unusually long incubation period, the health ministry is taking no chances with the disease, which health authorities thought they had under control last week, Elston said.

An isolation unit has been set up in a wing of the 170-bed home. Additional staff members, hired for the isolation unit, are working separately from other staff members and residents, and public health officials are supervising kitchen operations.

Grave condition

Of Extendicare's original 169 residents, 15 remain in isolation at the home and 15 are in hospital, two in grave condition.

Some of the residents still in hospital may be released over the next few days, Elston said.

Since the initial outbreak Sept. 8, 51 residents and 13 staff members have been affected by severe gastro-intestinal symptoms and bloody diarrhea triggered by what health investigators think might have been contaminated ground meat.

Dr. David Korn, chief medical officer of health for Ontario, said health authorities are now fairly certain that residents and staff were infected about Sept. 6 by a virulent form of E. coli bacteria, a common bowel organism that secretes toxins that destroy live cells.

Improper handling

A rare form of E. coli discovered in humans only three years ago is characterized by bloody diarrhea and is thought to be transmitted by improper handling of food.

Korn said it is the worst outbreak on record in Ontario and has led to the deaths of 25 per cent of those infected in the initial outbreak.

"This is an exceptionally unusual situation," Korn said. "It's the first outbreak of gastro-intestinal illness to result in deaths of such magnitude."

Elston said health authorities are only slightly consoled by the fact that no relatives of the staff members have contracted the infection - an indication that it is not spreading.

Autopsies performed

Elston called the probe "an inquiry already going on" but could not say whether an inquest will be ordered. That decision must be left to the coroner, he said.

The corner building is just another sterile, faceless apartment - but inside it is turning people's lives around.

Fred Gale, 53, used to room with "mice, roaches and the wrong type of people" for $285 a month in an east-end rooming house.

Now he shares a kitchen, living room and airy spaces with three other people, each with their own bedroom, for $60 a month in a co-op unit in the new Jarvis-Shuter Sts. apartment project called Homes First.

Ada Shields, 21, and her daughter Ashley, almost 2, share a unit here with another mother and child.

Her last home was a damp basement apartment with an open door to the rest of the house and a tiny living area and bedroom with no space between her bed and the crib - for $300 a month.

Went without

"I had to crawl on to my bed. But the rent was so high on mother's allowance ($532) that I had to go without meals at the end of the month to make sure Ashley had her meat and vegetables. She used to be very nervous and wouldn't do much when we lived there."

Homes First on Shuter St. provides affordable housing for 77 needy people, with Canada Mortgage and Housing Corp. funding and provincial rent subsidies. Its units filled within one week of opening last November.

Now its waiting list is only one of many desperate lineups for affordable housing in Metro.

Cityhome, Toronto's non-profit housing units, has a list of 5,000 families who wait up to two years for an apartment to become available.

Metro's critical housing shortage has politicians, planners and social agencies seeking a variety of solutions.

Toronto Mayor Art Eggleton, for one, decries "an incredible contradiction."

"In Toronto we have developed a quality of life that is the envy of North America. Yet more people are going hungry, more people need food from food banks and more people are without housing.

"As mayor, my priority must be to make sure the good quality of life is shared by more people, or we risk losing it for everyone," Eggleton says.

Railway lands

Mayoral candidate Anne Johnston argues that Eggleton should be seeking more housing space from the proposed development of railway lands. Current projections are for three towers of housing and 12 of commercial space, she says.

Johnston, too, calls for more money at every level of government to expand non-profit housing.

"The provincial government could allocate 2,000 more units in Cityhome projects and the federal government could allocate more co-op housing," she says.

"They've been very chintzy, with only 250 allocations last year. But it's a good solution, with ownership at a level people can afford."

Ontario's new Liberal housing minister, Alvin Curling, is also looking for answers.

The government has promised 10,000 new non-profit and co-op housing units across the province over three years. The number set for Metro has not yet been determined.

Subsidized units

Forty per cent of the units are slated for "deep subsidies" for people on social assistance; 20 per cent for "shallow subsidies" for the working poor; and another 40 per cent for low-rent-paying tenants, he says.

"Sure, this will ease the housing pressure. But the really different thing we're doing is looking at over-all policy. That's not been done in a long time," Curling says.

The housing crunch started in the '70s with middle-class purchasers and speculators white-painting former rooming houses to trendy single-family units. It toughened as governments tightened their belts on housing, developers stopped building new apartments, and landlords turned to demolitions of buildings, conversion to luxury condos and scams to evade the limitations of rent controls.

A Toronto Star investigation found that the people hardest hit by the crush are former psychiatric patients discharged from hospitals to find their own way, transients and people chronically unemployed.

Task force

Concerned about their plight, Eggleton set up a task force headed by psychologist Reva Gerstein in February, 1983. A year later in her 209-page report, she recommended a government cleanup of rundown rooming houses in the Parkdale area, like the filthy, squalid house with 16 roomers at 100 A and B Cowan Ave., described by The Star in this series.

She estimated some 1,800 "chronically mentally ill" people live in Toronto. But today, experts say at least 2,000 need supportive housing with differing levels of care.

Gerstein estimated a minimum of $1.5 million a year for five to 10 years would be needed for adequate housing.

Last December, then health minister Keith Norton promised money for two group homes for former psychiatric patients in Metro Toronto. They are expected to open for roomers next spring.

He also gave the go-ahead to fund a crisis centre with 15 beds, planned for next year.

A voluntary program to bring boarding homes up to city standards, also recommended by Gerstein, currently has only three owners with a total of four boarding houses involved in a pilot project.

Unfit for habitation

Johnston says both city and province could put more money into renovating sub-standard Parkdale homes.

"There are places there that nobody should live in. Anything the city can do would help," she says.

Eggleton says the housing crisis needs attacking on two fronts - by creating more affordable housing and hanging on to existing stock.

As for the controversial subject of rent controls, Eggleton notes that the current situation requires looking at all possibilities, even easing off controls over time.

"The difficulty is that the private sector is building only luxury condominiums, and none in the city. They say as long as there are rent controls, there will be no change," Eggleton says.

"It would hurt a lot of people to remove rent controls. But if that is being considered, it should be over at least five years and with a massive increase in the supply of housing and a lot of money up front.

"It might be cheaper, instead, for the government to put money into non-profit and co-op housing."

Experimental projects

Meantime, the city has experimental projects like developing housing in downtown industrial buildings, adding second-storey units to retail store strips, and creating basement apartments.

"We've got to look at re-use and renovation of existing housing," Eggleton says.

But demolitions and other schemes to avoid rent controls are causing concern.

The latest scam, Eggleton says, is landlords with buildings in downtown commercial areas "placing a TV and a Gideon Bible in a vacated room and calling it a hotel unit.

"When enough rooms get converted, voila: it's a hotel instead of an apartment.

I'm trying to get the province to put a stop to it. We're fighting a rearguard action here to maintain our housing stock."

The city can delay demolitions for one year, but has no control over luxury renovations or conversions to co-op units.

In North York, where many 25-year-old low-rise buildings are ripe for luxury renovations, demolition permits are easily obtained.

Demolition controls

"We need to have control over demolitions," says Eggleton. "The current Liberal government called for that when in opposition. Now they have the opportunity to do that."

Johnston calls for a three-year control of demolitions: "That shakes out the speculators who purchase only to convert to luxury condos," she says. "City council can still give permission for demolition in buildings that are in unsafe condition."

As for three much-publicized Bathurst-Eglinton apartments headed for demolition unless the city negotiates a deal, Johnston, longtime alderman for the area, says, "If those go, it's a signal to developers that it's worth persisting. Lots more are on the waiting list for demolition permits."

She'll fight to save at least some of the 324 apartment units, she says.

Housing activist Kay Gardner says landlords can renovate their buildings and earn back their costs without driving out tenants and raising rents.

"They can go to rent review board and get their costs amortized over a number of years. And if they borrow money to refurbish, the interest is deductible."

"Crunch worse'

George Cook, commissioner of Toronto's Cityhome, says a higher percentage of housing should be allotted to subsidized rents.

Some 2,000 of the original Cityhome units have 40 per cent of rents geared to income, but the newer units set only 30 per cent for needier tenants.

"We're housing a wider band in our units than we should. We met the targets of our initial plans. But the housing crunch is much worse today," Cook says.

Experts agree there are no easy solutions. But Fred Gale and Ada Shields are hopeful examples that decent, affordable housing can spur people to seek jobs, better health, and revived dignity.

Of her new home with daughter Ashley, Shields says, "Now I have room to walk, we have money left over to go to Centre Island and the zoo, and I'm taking upgrading classes in a home course so I can get out to work."

OTTAWA (CP) - Skipping breakfast may be the worst way to start the day, but people who have nothing more than coffee and doughnuts aren't doing much better.

"All they are getting is calories and caffeine," says Colette Dervish, a nutritionist with the Ottawa-Carleton regional health unit who extolls the virtue of a good breakfast with near-religious fervor.

Junk-food breakfasts, the fodder of what Dervish describes as nutritional illiterates, create an artificial high that comes crashing down part way through the morning, creating the need for another hit of quick energy.

Proper breakfast

Those who eat a proper breakfast, she says, tend to be healthier and thinner, and in the case of students, more attentive in school.

Breakfast, according to nutritionists, should provide 25 per cent of daily nutrient requirements and include selections from three of the four food groups in Canada's food guide: fruits and vegetables, breads and cereals, milk and milk products, and meat, fish, poultry or alternates.

"Protein to start off the day keeps your blood sugar level steadier," Dervish says.

One serving of oatmeal, four ounces of apple juice and eight ounces of milk make a perfect breakfast, she says, and only cost about 50 cents.

Cereals are quick and easy, but she warns that only brands with less than five grams of sugar per serving should be considered, not the sugar-coated varieties that predominate in most grocery stores.

For more exotic tastes, alternatives such as soup and even pizza still qualify as good breakfasts.

Some people might be surprised to hear that traditional breakfasts are not necessarily the best selections. Bacon and eggs, for example, should be no more than a once-a-week indulgence because, as a meal, it is high in fat and cholesterol.

Moderation is also required with coffee. Dervish says nutritionists all agree that too much caffeine increases the heart rate and causes insomnia, tremors, nervousness and irritability, as well as promoting the secretion of stomach acids painful to ulcer victims.

There is some debate over these ideas, however, because there is little concrete evidence to back up nutritionists' theories, particularly in the area of mental performance.

British researcher Arnold Bender, in a study published in the British Journal of Nutrition in 1982, said the "evidence that breakfast is the most important meal of the day is far from certain."

Tests performance

Bender tested the mental performance of two groups - school children, including some who ate breakfast regularly and others who did not, as well as a group of adults who regularly ate breakfast but were deprived of it for the purpose of the study.

"Neither study revealed differences attributable to the omission or consumption of breakfast," he concluded.

A team of U.S. researchers argued the opposite in 1981 when they concluded the problem-solving abilities of 9- to 11-year-olds suffered by mid-morning if they were deprived of breakfast.

Even without hard proof of a link between breakfast and mental performance, Dervish says there are other justifications for promoting proper breakfasts.

People who skip breakfast have a much harder time watching their weight.

"By mid-morning they are absolutely starving and they dive for the croissants and danishes and other high-calorie things," she says.

People who skip breakfast also often do not get all the nutrients they need daily, including a balance of proteins, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins and minerals.

"If you really made a conscious effort to make it up (through the rest of the day), you might be able to do it," Dervish says.

Elaine's Grill is your typical brass and fern establishment with exposed brick walls and cute waiters dressed in chinos and polo shirts. Located on the fringe of Forest Hill, it caters to an upscale young crowd.

Advertising that it offers Toronto's best gourmet burgers, the restaurant has a lot to live up to. And it does. Burgers made of ground round steak are cooked on an open grill any way you want them.

These are gourmet burgers, which means you can get a burger any way you like it. There's a choice of 16 toppings - everything from avocado to fried egg - and several specialty burgers with assorted toppings.

Burgers are the main event here and the appetizers rather mediocre. My husband's caesar salad ($3.25) was limp and bland, lacking the necessary garlicky punch. My zucchini sticks ($3.25), though plentiful, were overcooked and too greasy.

All was forgiven when the burgers arrived. I had chosen the basic four-ounce burger ($2.95) topped with sauteed onions, mushrooms and green peppers (85 cents.) Served on a fresh sesame seed bun, with shoe-string fries and a choice of three mustards, this juicy, hot-on the outside, pink-on-the-inside burger deserved its billing as the city's best.

My partner chose the pizza burger ($5.95) - six ounces of meat topped with tomato sauce, mushrooms, onions, green peppers, mozzarella cheese and pepperoni. It tasted like a meatball submarine sandwich.

Desserts were delicious. My apple cheese flan ($3.25) was a heavenly blend of buttery pastry, creamy cheese and cinnamon-spiced apples drizzled with apricot preserves. The pecan pie ($3.25) was chock full of pecans and laced with chocolate liqueur. Our bill, including tax, was $40. - Kathy English.

The Star's daily restaurant review

TABLE FOR TWO Elaine's Grill 488 Eglinton Ave. W. 481-6171 Gourmet burgers and hotdogs; seats 140; entrees $2.95 to $6.95; open 11.30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 11.30 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 11.30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. to midnight Friday, 11.30 a.m. to 1 a.m. Saturday and 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday; full licence, no-smoking area, easy access for handicapped, reservations not required; major cards accepted.

The Clarkson area in Mississauga has developed a cluster of nice eating spots along Lakeshore Rd. We've enjoyed the sprightly Babsi's and the formal Michael's Back Door but La Gondolier, while less elegant, has something extra going for it - the little prices that go with its big servings of good food.

Two people can have complete meals here for under $15. Well, that would not include dessert, but the odds are you wouldn't have room for it anyway. And for those prices you eat in a pleasant room with solid wood furniture and tables set with linen, candles and flowers.

Appetizers and coffee are included in all entree prices, so for $6.75, my wife got not only the roast half-chicken plate, but a bowl of thick minestrone that tasted as rich as it looked. Her chicken, tender inside and crisp outside, was so ample she had the entire breast and wing wrapped to take home. Spaghetti, ordered in place of vegetables, was good, too.

I splurged on the veal house special (all of $9.75) - two pieces of veal wrapped around ham and cheese and smothered in a tomato and green-pepper sauce. This was pleasant, but the half-order of canneloni that I had on the plate instead of vegetables was better, with the meat in it ground coarsely, giving a nice body.

The French onion soup starter was excellent, the broth being so strong they could have got away with watering it down a little.

For desserts, we picked cassata and chocolate tartuffo ($1.50 and $1.60) and both were better than we've had at rooms that charged twice as much for them. The bill, including the quarter-chicken my wife took home and tax, was $23. A half-litre of house white wine would have added $6.75, plus tax. - Jack Miller

The Star's daily restaurant review

TABLE FOR TWO La Gondolier 1852 Lakeshore W., Mississauga 822-6460 Italian cuisine; seats 75 in two rooms; pasta dishes $7 to $7.75; other entrees $6.75 to $14.75; full licence; open seven days - Monday to Friday 11 a.m. to 1 a.m., Saturday 5 p.m. to 1 a.m., Sunday 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.; access for handicapped; no no-smoking area; reservations needed only for large groups (20-30 people); takes major cards.

It used to take Duke Marine 90 minutes to get to work by bus before the Mississauga Transit shutdown.

Now that the city has locked the drivers out, he takes his bike - and makes the 25-kilometre (15-mile) trip in just half the time.

"I'm in good physical condition, so I just put it in tenth gear and push it all the way," said Marine, 26, of Fieldgate Drive, who works as a butcher at a meat-packing plant in the Keele St.-St. Clair Ave. area of Toronto.

"It saves me a lot of time, but at the end of the day I'm worn out. And if the weather looks bad I have to hitch a ride or take a cab. If this was winter, I'd be out of a job."

Marine is one of about 50,000 regular Mississauga Transit users who have had to scramble to find other ways to get to work, school or other important destinations since the buses stopped rolling on Sept. 18.

That's when the 370 members of Local 1572, Amalgamated Transit Union, walked off the job for a 24-hour study session to back contract demands. When they reported back for work, they were locked out by the city - and will continue to be until a collective agreement is reached, the city says. Their contract expired June 30.

More talks

Both sides expect a provincial mediator will bring them together soon for more talks. But neither side would budge from their positions during the last negotiations, held on Monday.

Karen Saunders, 21, of Fieldgate Drive is another resident who has taken to her bike to get to her secretarial job five kilometres (three miles) away on Dixie Rd.

"I don't find riding that distance to be too tiring; at least it's good exercise," she said. "But I hate arriving at work all hot and sweaty. I look forward to the buses running again, especially on days when they're forecasting rain. I already got soaked once."

But Jesse Hawley, 83, who lives in a senior citizens apartment on Stavebank Rd., and relies on public transit for shopping and outings, refused to complain about the situation.

"I had a dental appointment today, but my teeth don't hurt so I'll just take them out," she said.

"Pretty good'

"The bus drivers have been pretty good to us, even helping us carry our groceries inside, so I'm not going to say anything unkind about them. Besides, they offered to give rides to people like me at their own expense (during the lockout)."

Liana Suryou-Atmojo, 27, has been hitchhiking the 10 kilometres (6 miles) to her temporary job as a researcher for the Peel Multicultural Council from her home in southwest Mississauga.

"It makes me feel uneasy, but it's the only practical way for me to get to work," she said. "Motorists have been very understanding, but I hope this whole problem ends soon."

Joan McCubbin, 35, had to walk for 40 minutes to get from her home on Flagship Drive, to her job as a customer sales representative the first four days of the strike.

"Fortunately, my boss has been able to find someone to give me a lift since then. I greatly depend on public transit for work and shopping, so for me this strike has been a big headache."

Fred Mizal, 18, a Grade 13 student at T. L. Kennedy Secondary School, said the transit shutdown has forced him to cut back on his activities "because the bus is the only way I have of getting around."

Dispatchers at Mississauga's taxi companies said their phones have been ringing constantly since the buses stopped, reporting between 50 and 100 per cent increases in fares.

HONOLULU, HAWAII - HONOLULU, Hawaii - The bad news about spending a winter or part of one in this sunny capital is that it takes U.S. dollars. The good news is that with a little care you can cut costs to a reasonable minimum.

That's something my wife, Evelyn, and I have learned over the past dozen years as winter residents of the island of Oahu. We've learned where to shop for best values; where to get good restaurant meals at reasonable prices; where to get entertainment free, or at little cost; and how to sightsee for at most, the price of a bus fare.

The first place you can save is on the cost of getting here - transportation and accommodation. If you reserve hotel space in Hawaii on your own, you pay top rack rate in U.S. funds. You can save by having a travel agent arrange a package, including airfare, transfers and hotel room. Payable up-front in Canadian dollars, the amount represents by far the biggest portion of your Hawaii vacation cost.

Thus, you'll spend U.S. dollars only upon arrival in Hawaii for food, entertainment and sightseeing.

Tip: Upon arrival in Honolulu, you'll probably be invited to a "free" breakfast, or briefing meeting. You may end up buying tour and entertainment packages you could possibly get cheaper elsewhere. In fact, some inclusive attractions are available free. Compare prices, check around.

For example, we have heard numerous complaints from people who have paid $18 each for a commercial bus tour to Pearl Harbor, only to discover they could have seen this free attraction by using the local bus. (More on this later.)

Tip: Pick up give-away newspapers and booklets such as This Week Oahu. Available in hotels and street boxes throughout Waikiki, these publications contain a myriad of information about freebies, low-cost meals, discounts, shopping specials and much more.

At some winter resort destinations, it costs $40, $50 or more daily for meals. Not so in Hawaii. Spencecliff Restaurant chain advertises "How to dine well in Waikiki for under $10 a day.' Many readers advise me they eat well for under $15 a day, much less if their room contains kitchen equipment where snacks and some meals can be prepared.

With hundreds of eateries in Waikiki or nearby, every fast-food chain is represented. In almost every block, you'll find restaurants offering specials and catering to every whim, fancy, ethnic and price category. Pick up a 75-cent hamburger or blow $50 for a deluxe table d'hote dinner.

That popular old song The Best Things in Life are Free could well have been written about Honolulu and the island of Oahu. A to Z, there are countless free or low-cost things to see or do, from the Arizona Memorial to Honolulu Zoo.

But if you're flush, there are plenty of ways to spend those costly U.S. dollars on package tours, dinner shows, cruises, night clubs and exotic drinks at $4.50 a shot. The key to free or low-cost sightseeing is TheBus, Honolulu's excellent public transportation system. For 60 cents exact change (coins only), you can go almost anywhere on Oahu and that includes a four-hour circle island trip of 160 kilometres (100 miles.) Use your first trip around to make notes on the points of interest you might want to visit another day, as a sort of See OAHU/page G13 Continued from page G1

guided tour. Of course, the driver won't give you a run-down on what you're seeing, but then you're not paying $30 or $35 either!

Here, then, is what you'll see on this do-it-yourself tour, with notes, too, on what you'll find on later visits.

Board a No. 8 or No. 20 bus to Ala Moana Center, obtaining a transfer. You pass Fort Derussy Beach on Kalia Road, less crowded than Waikiki Beach. Free exercise classes are conducted there at 9 a.m. There's also a free military museum. Open 10 a.m. to 4.30 p.m., closed Monday.

Tip: Ala Moana Center, Hawaii's largest, is where many "locals' shop because it offers best buys. With 155 stores and 30 restaurants, competition is keen and prices usually lower than in Waikiki.

At Ala Moana Center transfer to a No. 52 bus (half-hourly service), which travels in either direction around the island. We'll take No. 52 Circle Island - Wahiawa, travelling clockwise around Oahu. (Best view from driver's side.)

On the makai (ocean) side, those dozens of boats and yachts are docked at Kewalo Basin, sometimes called Fisherman's Wharf, from where fishing charters and sightseeing cruises depart.

That unusual looking structure on the mauka (inland) side is Ward Warehouse, which together with newer Ward Center contains dozens of specialty boutiques and restaurants.

Soon you arrive at Honolulu Harbor and Aloha Tower, where the harbormaster directs navigation. Free admission allows a view from the observation deck of this historic structure. Queen Elizabeth II and other ocean liners dock here. A payment of $1.50 puts you on board the four-masted Falls of Clyde, an historic last-of-its-kind vessel.

(If you want to come back to any place mentioned so far, you can stick with the No 8 Airport or a No. 20 bus instead of transferring to the No. 52 at Alo Moana Center.)

Around the corner, downtown Honolulu is a mixture of modern 40-storey skyscrapers, shopping areas, parks, a street mall, then Chinatown, a hodgepodge of newer and decrepit-looking slum buildings, small oriental businesses, restaurants, bars, X-rated movie houses, adult entertainment joints - and more.

Pearl Harbor

Mingling with respectable business people, you'll see the other side of society - drunks, bag ladies, transvestites, hookers, their bookers and other types of street people.

On your circle tour aboard No. 52 bus, you'll soon pass Pearl Harbor, where the Arizona Memorial is dedicated to the men who lost their lives during the Japanese attack, Dec. 7, 1941.

On a visit here, you'll see a narrated film of that event and then a U.S. Navy launch will transport you out to the Memorial. The tour is free and the Memorial - which can be reached directly from Waikiki on a No. 20 bus - is open 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Closed Monday.

Coming up on the right on your tour is Aloha Stadium, home of the annual Aloha Bowl football game, which you've probably seen on television. A unique feature of this 50,000-seat stadium is that it can be changed to a football or baseball seating configuration by a slick hydraulic engineering process.

Driving through sugar cane and pineapple fields, you pass old plantation town Wahiawa, then the Dole pineapple pavilion, where you can view a demonstration pineapple plot or purchase fresh pineapple fruit or juice.

The Waianae mountain range on the makai side protects the leeward coast from windward storms. (No. 51 bus travels there.)

Soon the north shore and Pacific Ocean loom into view. With luck, there'll be high surf because you parallel the ocean for several miles. We've seen surf breaking at 30 feet or more. Keep a lookout for surfers.

Tip: A surf prediction report is published in daily newspapers, or can be obtained by phoning 836-1952.

The old village of Haleiwa (Holly-eeva) was at one time a swish resort area, reached by a long-defunct railway. The beach park is popular.

Travelling now through farm and ranchland, you pass numerous beaches. In earlier days, this was paniolo (cowboy) country.

Tip: Hawaii's parks and beaches are all free but, unless lifeguard-protected, use caution. Some waters are extremely dangerous. Look for the orange-colored lifeguard towers.

On the right, Waimea Falls Park, a quiet sanctuary, once home to thousands of stone-age Hawaiians, has been preserved to a large extent in its natural state. A shuttle bus takes you to the falls, where daredevil divers perform. Swimming permitted.

The woods are laced with nature trails. You'll see exotic flowers and birds, including colorful peacocks, which ham it up for camera buffs.

You may wish to return and spend a full day in this relaxing spot. Snacks or meals are available. Admission $6.95.

Now you pass several surfing areas, including Sunset Beach and the formidably dangerous Banzai Pipeline - for experts only! Championship surfing meets are televised from here.

Soon, the bus pulls off the highway into the beautifully landscaped grounds of Turtle Bay Hilton Resort Hotel, one of our favorite places. This halfway point is two hours out - two to go. And a great place to break your trip.

Surrounded by a golf course, riding trails and the ocean, you'll be thrilled by the surf breaking on both sides of the rugged point, offering marvellous photo opportunities.

We always plan this trip with lunch in mind. When we've had our feast of the magnificent scenery, we enjoy an excellent all-you-can-eat buffet, served until 2 p.m.

Considering you won't likely be able to eat much more that day, $9.50 is not too bad a price. But lighter and cheaper fare is available in the sandwich bar, or at the poolside snack bar.

It's easy to while away two or three hours in this quiet place. Just 64 kilometres (40 miles) from Waikiki, it seems as if you're on a different island.

Continuing your tour, obtain a transfer when paying the fare. Make certain you board a bus heading in the same direction (toward Kaneohe) to complete your circle island trip.

Just past old Kahuku Sugar Mill, which failed in an attempted comeback as a tourist attraction, you'll see dozens of man-made aquaculture ponds, where prawns are raised.

Next point of interest is the Mormon Temple and its extremely popular Polynesian Cultural Center.

This 42-acre site is one of the most visited entertainment spots on the islands. The site and its exhibits are manned mostly by students from nearby Brigham Young University, who hail from such Pacific islands as Samoa, Fiji, Tonga, the Marquesas, New Zealand (Maoris), and of course, Hawaii.

By tram, canoe or on foot, you tour reproductions of the various native villages, while learning about their culture, crafts, habits, music and dance.

An afternoon highlight, Voyage of the Pacific Pageant, is performed by gaily costumed islanders aboard double-hulled canoes.

Snacks are available, or an all-you-can-eat buffet dinner is followed by the highlight - a 90-minute show extravaganza. This is Polynesia. (Advance reservations usually a must.)

Tip: TheBus is O.K. for a daytime visit but may be chancy after an evening show. Last bus leaves at 9.57 p.m. Package prices for this attraction vary - shop around. Polynesian Cultural Centre maintains a ticket reservation office in Royal Hawaiian Center, Kalakaua Ave.

Beyond here, alternate mea'ai (food) stops could be Crouching Lion Inn, Pats at Punaluu or, and this may make you squirm, Texas Paniolo Restaurant where the specialty is rattlesnake meat.

You're travelling south along the windward coast. The Koolau Mountains on the right protect Honolulu (Waikiki) from storms swept in by prevailing trade winds.

You haven't seen a billboard? They're illegal in Hawaii. Do watch for groves of coconut, banana and papaya trees.

You'll recognize the island known as Chinaman's Hat - it sure looks like one. That's Kaneohe Marine Base located across Kaneohe Bay.

Now you head inland through the Koolau Mountains and Pali tunnel. Many larger homes, including several foreign consulates line this highway. Queen Emma's summer palace, on the left, charges $3 admission.

Then it's downtown Honolulu, then Ala Moana Center, where you use that free transfer on a No. 8 or No. 20 bus for Waikiki.

Friends rave about this outing. Many say it's the highlight of their Hawaii vacation. And the price is right!

TheBus travels to most other Oahu points of interest: Hanauma Bay, Sea Life Park ($7.25 admission), No. 57 bus; Paradise Park ($7), No. 5 bus from Ala Moana Center; Honolulu Academy of Arts (free) or Bishop Museum ($4), No. 2 (School St.) bus; Kodak Hula Show (free), No. 8 or No. 20 bus into Kapiolani Park; Honolulu Zoo ($1) or Aquarium ($1.50), No. 2 Kapiolani Park bus.

For the State Capital building or Iolani Palace (only palace in the U.S.), take any No. 2 bus.

For $15, an unlimited use monthly pass is available. If you're 65, with proof, you can get a free annual pass. But processing takes about four weeks and it will be mailed only to an Oahu address.

For more information or directions, phone TheBus 531-1611.

Of course, rental cars are available at competitive prices, or you can buy various commercial tour packages.

But if you go this do-it-yourself route, you'll not only have a great time but also take home fond memories and maybe some of those costly U.S. bucks.

LONDON, ONT. - LONDON, Ont. - Another nursing home resident has died of diarrhea, and health officials say the disease may have spread to two other area homes.

Dr. David Korn, Ontario's chief medical officer of health, said a woman died in hospital yesterday, raising the death toll at London's Extendicare home to 15.

And he told a news conference later in the day that the Meadow Park Retirement Home in south London and Extendicare Sun Haven in nearby Lambeth have recorded several cases of diarrhea.

But it may be up to a week before investigators determine whether the cause is the same bacteria that raced through Extendicare in London, Korn said.

The bacterium is a virulent strain of a common bowel organism, which secretes deadly toxins that destroy cells.

Tainted meat

Of the 70 cases reported at that London home, officials said about 53 can be traced to tainted ground meat sandwiches served at lunch Sept. 5.

The rest of the cases at the home are believed to be the result of cross-contaminination.

Korn said this may occur when nurses, who sometimes work at the other homes, handle an infected patient and spread it to others or themselves. Contamination may also occur when handling patients' food or stool.

Korn said the deadly diarrhea outbreak, caused by a rare type of bacteria, is the worst of its type ever recorded in North America; there are only three documented cases in Canada and the U.S. involving this strain of the E.coli bacteria.

Resident admitted

He also reported that one resident from Sun Haven was admitted to St. Joseph's Hospital yesterday with symptoms of bloody diarrhea, similar to the cases at Extendicare in London.

That patient is in isolation along with the 12 residents from Extendicare in London. Of those, three are in very poor condition, health authorities say.

Korn said investigators are searching for a common source among the three nursing homes, such as a food supplier, a staff member or similar methods of food preparation.

In the Sun Haven case, Korn reported "two very suggestive leads" - two registered nurses "who worked with patients at Extendicare London and subsequently in charge of a unit at Sun Haven."

No new cases of the infection have been reported at Extendicare in London since Wednesday.

All recovered

Meanwhile, 14 Meadow Park residents came down diarrhea within a 15-hour period Friday, but all appear to have recovered, and none have been admitted to hospital, he said.

All the affected residents at Meadow Park are in strict isolation, Korn said.

And a preliminary investigation indicates that the cause may be a virus and not the strain of E.coli bacteria now confirmed to be the origin of the epidemic.

THIS disturbing and distinguished novel demands one's full attention. Anything less will be unequal to the authority of its narrative voice and to the insistency of its deep-cutting theme. Although Margaret Atwood has herself described the book as "futuristic" fiction, it is a fiction that reads like fact, for The Handmaid's Tale can be said to be recognizable from the start as our own world, our own degenerate time extrapolated not very far into the future.

Certainly, it's the most audacious book that Atwood so far has attempted. It knits together and becomes a logical extension of the scarifying theme of sexual politics and warfare that she has explored in her poetry collections (True Stories, Interlunar), the novels (Life Before Man, Bodily Harm) and the books of stories (Dancing Girls, Bluebird's Egg).

But it's really quite different from anything she has written previously. Here she takes us into another time and another country, one beyond Canada and into an imagined state. It is quiet, intense, low-key but hypnotic in its gripping accumulation of detail, its gradual unwrapping of human reality amid what at first seems a barbarian and unknowable environment. Once started, the novel is one of those compelling books that is impossible to lay aside.

The narrator, who is called Offred, is the handmaid of the title, the class of women in a totalitarian society who have been reduced to the simple role of bearing children for the male Commanders and their barren wives. She is completely powerless, has no access to books or writing materials, is isolated from any knowledge of what is happening around her and cannot talk freely to anyone.

Offred remembers with some nostalgia the "time before," the freedoms and the choices that had been hers to enjoy, her domestic life with husband and child. Now, however, her life is spotlit in a baleful, spectral glow, as if against some existential sunset of civilization, manipulated by a patriarchy. There has been a momentous change in historical fact, the president shot, Congress overwhelmed, the army declaring a state of emergency.

It is now a society in which men and women are tortured and summarily executed for petty misdemeanors, particularly for infringing on sexual taboos, and left hanging on The Wall which encircles the city (which is probably Boston, a place which evokes memories of another puritan society). Orgasms are outdated, so are love and other humane gestures.

"What I need is perspective," she thinks. "The illusion of depth, created by a frame, the arrangement of shapes on a flat surface. Perspective is necessary. Otherwise there are only two dimensions. Otherwise you live with your face squashed against a wall, everything a huge foreground, of details, close-ups, hairs, the weave of the bedsheet, the molecules of the face. Your own skin like a map, a diagram of futility, crisscrossed with tiny roads that lead nowhere. Otherwise you live in the moment."

She is trapped. Her fertility is the only thing that saves her from being, say, an inmate of a secret brothel called Jezebel's or being shipped off to The Colonies where discarded, sterile women and incorrigibles are forced to clean up toxic wastes and radiation spills from the wars which apparently are still being waged.

Atwood's narrator argues with the voices in her head; one emanates from her young womanhood and lures her back into a mindless kind of infantile helplessness. More powerful are the male figures who have the authority and magic words to keep her abjectly dependent on their approval and whims.

"We've given them more than we've taken away," says the Commander, explaining why women now should be content with their way of life, with the way they can fulfill their biological destinies in peace. "Think of the trouble they had before. Don't you remember the singles bars, the indignity of high-school blind dates? The meat market. Don't you remember the terrible gap between the ones who could get a man easily and the ones who couldn't? Some of them were desperate, they starved themselves thin or pumped their breasts full of silicone, had their noses cut off. Think of the human misery."

Such irony. But if an aura of despair, death, madness and futility hangs over this narrative, Atwood's handling of suspense is as splendidly well-crafted as it is mesmeric. Her phrases flow effortlessly as they add color to the bleak background. Technically, Atwood never falters; she springs surprises but they are never melodramatic.

What will happen to Offred? This question pulls the reader along; we feel a shiver deep down as she becomes inextricably entangled in the callously self-centred machinations of her Commander and his wife. The blows of fate are cruelly random and they carry her, perhaps dubiously, to an ambiguous conclusion - though obviously, she survives to tell this tale.

But no summary can easily distill the flavor of this novel. One might call this a feminist theological novel; certainly it is didactic, densely infiltrated by myth, metaphor and history. Swift's A Modest Proposal, the biblical Genesis, Orwell's Nineteen Eighty-four and other dystopias float in the mind; so, in a way, do Doris Lessing's energetic satires of the totalitarian state as viewed from outer space.

But unlike Lessing, Atwood never forgets she is writing a novel. Belief in Atwood's theories about what men do to women is not required to find her novel pleasurably, even furiously engaging, on every page. She does not forget the here and now. She will pause for moments of liquid beauty, stop to portray the shimmer of flowers, even if it is ironically played out against the grim violence. The wry Historical Notes at the end of the book may suggest that the nightmare depicted in the novel is a thing of the past, but in no way does it lessen the thrust of The Handmaid's Tale as prophecy and warning.

VANCOUVER - VANCOUVER (CP) - A phantom hunter is littering east Vancouver with headless moose, creating havoc for sanitation squads.

"It's a mess - it really stinks," says city animal-pound worker Lee Chapelle.

The remains of three moose have been found around the east end in the past week, two along roads and the third in a garbage bin. Only the heads and meat had been removed.

Chapelle says he hopes the moose-dumper is caught soon. "We don't like being up to our knees in moose."

Crime Stoppers is repeating an appeal for information on two men who robbed Kellen's Meats and Delicatessan last July 20.

At about 5.30 p.m., two men walked into the store in the Don Mills Centre at Don Mills Rd. and Lawrence Ave. They approached the owner and manager, who were in the rear preparing the cash for the night deposit.

One man produced a badge, stated they were police officers and told the owner they had received information a robbery was to take place when the cash was being carried to the bank.

The man told the owner they'd be escorted to the bank, but advised them to take a different route.

Pulled handguns

The owner agreed and the four men left through the rear door and walked into a corridor at the back of the mall.

Suddenly, the men pulled out handguns, ordered the two men on to the floor and grabbed the money bag.

The bandits fled in an unknown direction, while the owner and manager went back to the store to alert police.

Canada-wide warrants have been issued for Joseph Edward McCormick and Roy Wilson Stairs.

Armed and dangerous

A re-enactment of the crime will be shown on CITY-TV newscasts tomorrow along with a police appeal for help in arresting the suspects.

McCormick, 40, is 5 feet 10 inches, 200 pounds, and has gray hair and blue eyes. Stairs, 38, is 6 feet 2 inches, 150 pounds, and has brown thinning hair and a moustache.

Both men are also wanted for several other robberies in Metro Toronto and other parts of Ontario. They should be considered armed and dangerous.

Crime Stoppers will pay $1,000 for information leading to the arrest of the men. Callers do not have to give their names or testify in court.

Other amounts up to $1,000 will be paid for information in other serious cases.

The special Crime Stoppers number is 222-8477.

* * *

Constable Mike Dabarno of Metro's Crime Stoppers wrote this column to help combat crime. A citizen board administers the local program, one of more than 600 Crime Stoppers in North America. Reward money is raised from tax-deductible donations which may be sent to Crime Stoppers, 1300 Yonge St. Toronto M4T 1X3.

The biggest mammal that ever walked the earth - the greatest land animal to give birth to its babies as humans do - was a rhinoceros.

It was as long as a school bus and its shoulders were as high as two school buses stacked one on top of the other and it may have roamed where Toronto is now.

This was not like any rhinoceros we can find in the world today. But then, hundreds of kinds of rhinos were like nothing we can find today. They started 60 million years ago in North America, roamed from Alaska down to Mexico, from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific and all around the Great Lakes. And they spread in time (probably by way of the ancient Bering Strait ice bridge) to almost all of Asia, Europe and Africa. But now they've all vanished from the scene except for five fading varieties on a few pinpoint ranges in Africa and south-central Asia.

Yet even what little is left of this once-magnificent family of creatures is second in size, among land animals, only to the elephant, which its long-ago cousin could dwarf.

The great Indian rhinoceros stands 6 feet, 6 inches tall (almost 2 metres) and, like all rhinos, it's much longer than it is high. It weighs a massive 3,130 kilograms (6,900 pounds). It's the tallest surviving cousin, but the white rhino of Africa, which stands 1.8 metres (6 feet), is even heavier at 3,600 kg (8,000 pounds).

Incredibly, for all this bulk, for all their ungainly look, stumpy legs and oversized heads, these beasts walk almost delicately on their toes (three on each foot) and can run as fast (though not as long) as a racehorse. They can chase down anything that annoys them at a terrifying 60 kilometres an hour (40 miles per hour).

It's no surprise that most things try not to annoy them. Even giant Bengal tigers have been gored on the long, rock-hard horns of mother Indian rhinos, then tossed aside like rag dolls, when the rhinos thought their babies were threatened.

Unless they feel threatened, though, the rhinos don't go picking fights. They're not man-eaters, or even meat-eaters. They just like to browse, eating grass and leaves. The females are among the animal world's best mothers - they keep their babies with them for years, sometimes until they're almost as big as themselves, teaching the kids everything they'll need to know to survive.

Great Indian rhino babies are born 2 feet tall and up to 125 pounds. Considering the ordeal such a delivery must be, the mothers could not be blamed for turning on the kids - but they don't.

The two-horned black rhinoceros of Africa is the most plentiful variety left, which hardly seems fair, since it's the meanest of them all: It hates every other living creature so much that it even shuns its brothers and sisters and roams alone.

The white rhino, which used to be found in a few spots in north and south Africa, has not been seen lately in the north, and may be on the way to joining its hundreds of old-time cousin species as a memory.

The little Sumatran rhino (the only one with hair) is rare now and the small Javan variety has almost disappeared.

And far to the east, in a few tiny enclaves squeezed up against the Himalayas in Nepal and in the Assam region on India's far northeast frontier, somewhere around 1,000 great Indian rhinos are fighting to keep alive the most distinctive branch of this once-huge family tree.

Most rhinos have smooth skins, but the great Indian looks like what humanity has come to expect a rhinoceros to be - a living tank, built for battle, almost a visual relic of the dinosaur age.

Massively thick skin covers its sides and shoulders and haunches, looking like overlapping plates of heavy armor, with bumps along the "seams" that look like rivets. Its eyes are shielded behind folds of that skin. Its legs look too strong and thick to be deflected in their charge. And the great spear-like horn projecting from the top of its long snout may be the most unstoppable weapon in all the arsenals of the animal kingdom - a blow from it, with a charging rhino behind it, can bowl over a car or small truck.

Rhinos have the hardest horns anywhere. Other animals' horns have a hard outer shell of a substance called keratin (like fingernail tissue), with a core of softer material. But rhino horn is all keratin - the tight-packed fibres as hard as stone and a lot tougher.

Roaring into battle, the great Indian rhinoceros looks invincible.

But it's not. The skin may be thick but it's soft enough to be scratched easily. The eyes see so poorly through their armored slits that an adversary can get within a few metres of it unseen (provided he stays downwind, so the sensitive nose doesn't catch his scent).

Maybe least known of all the rhino's weaknesses, that giant horn is attached almost loosely to the big hump on the snout end of the skull - a hard enough blow has been known to knock it off. If this happens, the rhino can grow a new one.

But the poachers who ignore conservation laws to hunt the great animals never seem to think of somehow drugging the animal and stealing this weapon and leaving it to grow another. Instead, they kill for rhinoceros horn, which can be ground up and sold for twice the price of gold per ounce, because it's supposed to be a magic cure for almost every malady, including sexual failings. (It's not, but the buyers go on believing and paying and encoraging the hunters.)

Stiff laws in India and Nepal now are silencing most of the poachers' guns, but farms and their grazing cattle keep cutting into the Great Indians' feeding lands. Now and then, when one of the animals wanders hungry into a farmer's greenery for a snack, the people can get excited and shout and startle it. Occasionally a frightened animal has killed one of these human tormentors, making it all the harder for conservationists to win sympathy for the rhinos.

Things used to be so different. Sixty million years ago, the first rhinos were the size and shape of deer, with thin graceful legs and no horns. Lots of their descendants had no horns, either, including the long-necked giant giraffe Rhinoceros - that biggest of all history's land mammals - which was 28 feet long and 18 feet high at the shoulders.

The question now is whether eight sanctuaries set up in India and a big 900-square-kilometre one in Nepal can keep the Indian breed from vanishing like the others. The two governments are trying to make it work and at last word, the numbers at least had stopped shrinking. Tomorrow: The bowhead whale

Thyme, garlic and colorful vegetables turn your supermarket special on lamb shoulder into a tempting supper dish. Pot Roast Of Lamb 2 to 3 lb (1 to 1.36 kg) boneless shoulder of lamb 2 tbsp vegetable oil

1/2 lb (250g) small pearl onions, peeled

1/2 lb (250g) mini carrots, washed and left whole

1/2 lb (250g) mushrooms, halved 12 tiny potatoes 3 stalks celery, sliced 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 cups beef or lamb stock 1 tbsp tomato paste 1 tbsp finely chopped fresh thyme or 1 tsp dried thyme leaves Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 tbsp all-purpose flour 1 tbsp butter, softened

Sprigs of fresh thyme or parsley (garnish)

Roll boneless shoulder of lamb lengthwise and tie to form an even, compact roast. In a small roasting pan or heavy casserole that can be used on top of stove, heat oil over medium heat. Brown meat on all sides, turning with two wooden spoons. Remove to heated plate.

Toss vegetables and garlic into pan; brown lightly. Stir in stock, tomato paste and thyme. (Use canned beef broth if stock isn't available). Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil; place meat in pan. Cover tightly and place in a preheated 325 degree F oven for 1 1/2 hours, or until meat and vegetables are tender. Remove meat and vegetables to a warm platter and keep warm. Skim off any excess grease from cooking liquid and bring to a boil on top of stove. Blend flour and butter to a very smooth paste. Whisk or stir into pan, cook for 2 minutes, whisking or stirring constantly, until sauce is smooth and thickened. Adjust seasoning. Spoon some sauce over meat and serve remainder in a heated sauce boat. Garnish meat platter with thyme or parsley sprigs. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

LONDON, ONT. - LONDON, Ont. - Nursing home officials and doctors were unable to put the minds of many grieving relatives at ease as they tried to explain how a deadly diarrhea outbreak could ravage a local nursing home in the past three weeks.

After announcing that the 16th victim, a 93-year-old woman, had died over the weekend, Extendicare London officials met about 110 anxious relatives last night.

The meeting had been closed to the press - the officials said this was to respect the privacy of the relatives - and after it was over, the relatives appeared to fall into two distinct categories: Those whose relatives were unaffected by the epidemic voiced praise for nursing home administrators, while those whose loved ones died feel they have not been told the whole story.

Many insisted on being told the exact source of the diarrhea epidemic, even though health investigators say they may never pinpoint the precise cause.

"Nothing answered'

"Nothing was solved, nothing was answered," said Bonnie Marceaux whose grandmother, Iva Loosemore, 88, died Sept. 24.

"I thought I might get some response but I don't know anymore than I did before. We were just told turkey or ham sandwiches," she said.

"Nothing about how it became contaminated or when it became contaminated."

The suspected source of the outbreak by health officials is a deadly E. coli bacteria which tainted ham sandwiches served at lunch time on Sept. 5.

Health officials have emphasized that E. coli contamination is routinely destroyed when properly cooked.

William and Bertha Stratton said they were "very disappointed" because none of their questions were answered at the meeting.

Bertha Stratton's sister, Lillian Rumball, 92, died Friday and the Strattons flew in from Vista, Calif., for her funeral yesterday.

"My husband had a list of questions about their freezing methods, but they just wouldn't answer though," said Bertha Stratton.

Man frustrated

"They say we should stay (in London) here for the inquest to get all our questions answered," Stratton said. "But we just can't stay that long."

One man, who refused to give his name, said his wife had become mildly ill with the infection but had recovered.

The man said that he was frustrated because none of his questions were answered.

"If this E. Coli is in all meats as (Ontario medical health officer) Dr. (David) Korn says, then why did it show up in just one meat and why did so many get sick?" he asked.

Bill Heine, former editor and chief of the London Free Press, whose mother is a resident of the home and was unaffected by the infection, said he was assured that the home did everything it could under the circumstances.

He said he thought that the "hard questions" posed by relatives to the health officials were answered answered "fully" and "very intelligently."

Meanwhile, other relatives praised Extendicare, but attacked the news media.

"I think it was most unfair of the press to zero in on just one side of the question," said Shirley Reese, a former registered nurse whose mother is a resident and was unaffected by the outbreak.

The media, she says, has "just painted the negative part of the story."

We expected from The Groaning Board restaurant - its name derived from the medieval term for a banquet table so heavily laden with food that it groans beneath the weight - a feast of plenty. Plenty of roasted meats, mounds of decadent potatoes and other gluttonous fare.

What we got, however, was a choice of dishes prepared with yogurt, alfalfa sprouts and granola - as much an anachronism to the Middle Ages as the young urban professional.

We helped ourselves to soup from the cauldrons. The split pea and ham ($1.95, refills $1), with seed-like lentils, beans and shredded carrot and onion in a tomato broth, was not what I expect from a soup with that name, but it was satisfying nonetheless. My companion's choice of lamb and vegetable was not so hot - in taste or temperature; its almost creamy texture belied its bland flavor.

The rice pilaf ($4.85), a daily special that included soup, was a casserole of brown rice studded with chick peas, red onion, apple pieces and broccoli - a melange (unique to say the least) that wasn't enhanced by its lukewarm temperature.

The meat wasn't missed in the vegetarian lasagna ($5.95). My taste buds were kept busy with the tomatoes, cottage cheese, eggplant, spinach, onions and zucchini tucked under cheddar and mozzarella cheese. Unfortunately, it was cold in the centre and only warm around the edges.

The desserts held the health food line - neither was sweet enough to evoke guilt. Carrot cake ($2.75) was topped with cream cheese and yogurt icing; apple crisp ($2.50) was made up of apple quarters, peels intact, and granola topped with the deviant ice cream. Late lunch with a bottle of Mommessin ($11.50) and tip was $36.91. - Susie Lazaruk

The Star's daily restaurant review

TABLE FOR TWO The Groaning Board 131 Jarvis St. 363-0265 Varied menu; seats 220; entrees $3.95 to $7.95; full licence; open 11 a.m. to 11.30 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday; accessible to handicapped; no-smoking area; reservations accepted; all major cards.

CALGARY - CALGARY (CP) - It was bound to happen sooner or later, what with everything going upscale here and upscale there.

Now it's official: Chuckwagon stew, perhaps the last frontier in cooking, has gone uptown.

Now it's haute stew, easily spotted by a few tell-tale changes.

For one thing, there's not a speck of the moose meat or rabbit that would have graced grandma's cast-iron pot.

For another, the flavor is decidedly more exotic, with spices like ginger and cumin.

Parsley is old news. Now coriander, alias Chinese parsley, alias cilantro, is sprouting everywhere - especially on new stews.

Even dumplings are being dumped.

As good as they might have been in the olden days, dumplings don't jibe with modern chefs who have little time to cook.

Dumplings just don't ride the fast track. They must be prepared on hot stews and eaten without delay.

In reheated stew, and most modern stews are reheated, dumplings come out sinkers.

Gone, too, is flour for the gravy. Uptown stew calls for cooking the "jus," never juice, as the French do, by evaporating a lot of the moisture until the flavor is concentrated and the consistency is semi-thick yet transparent.

That way you can see the meat, which is what stew is all about.

Unlike the side of moose that was stewed in pioneer recipes, meat for a modern stew is bought specifically for the recipe.

Although any meat can be used, beef still seems to be the favorite and the variety of lean and small cuts make it well-suited to the cook in a small-scale stew.

Better quality stewing cuts like beef cross-rib roast can be cut into meaty chunks rather than using the skimpy slivers that are sold as stewing beef. But for economy, a cut-up blade roast is better.

Shoppers in St. John's, Nfld., can pop into Captain Quick, a 24-hour convenience store, for a six-pack of beer, a litre of milk and a loaf of bread.

In Quebec city, a customer in La Ferme Carnaval Inc., can check out the in-store deli, bakery or large produce, meat and fish departments, then speed out the doors thanks to high-tech cash registers that scan prices.

Across Canada, shoppers now have choices about where to spend their food dollars besides the traditional supermarket, which often anchors the corner of a shopping mall.

In Toronto, a shopper can find on one short block of Yonge St. a Japanese food store called Iwaki; Country Boy, a Korean produce store; and Pastissima, featuring fresh pasta and imported Italian canned goods.

Winnipeg newspapers feature full-page advertisements in which Canada Safeway and Super Valu fight a price war. Super Valu's motto is "permanent discount" while Safeway counters with "lower over-all prices."

In Vancouver, Safeway offers shoppers one-stop shopping with full-service meat departments, garden centres featuring everything from barbecues to lawn chairs, pharmacies, delis and bulk-food sections.

Specialty and convenience stores have been growing in number for about a decade. Meanwhile, the concept of gigantic superstores on their own locations started in Western Canada about two years ago and is gradually moving east. Supermarkets have had to change to keep pace, adding new services and technology.

It's all part of a growing trend towards segmentation in the food retailing business, says Tim Carter, food division general manager of The Retail Council of Canada.

This segmentation is a good thing for consumers, he says. "It delivers the product and services consumers want without paying for things that don't suit their needs."

For instance, someone wanting a pack of cigarettes at 11.30 p.m. doesn't need the full services of a supermarket, but the speed and efficiency of a convenience store, he says. Similarly, someone concerned mainly with price would shop at a discount store.

Carter says segmentation has come about for many reasons, including a growing number of working women, smaller households, more men shopping and a greater number of ethnic groups, many of which follow the European style of shopping more frequently and closer to mealtimes.

Segmentation doesn't occur only among competitors but within chains as well as stores trying to serve the different needs of customers in each location.

Don Bell, public affairs manager for Safeway B.C., says the company's stores vary even within Vancouver. For example, in western Vancouver, there are many single and elderly people so stores package many single-sized portions. In the Italian district, cooking oil is bought so frequently it comes in bulk.

David Williams, executive vice-president of Loblaws Ltd., in Toronto, says the trend towards locating grocery stores in freestanding buildings away from malls began when research indicated shoppers seldom did grocery buying and other shopping on the same trip.

Consumers will go to the supermarket or through the department store and mall, but not at the same time, he says.

As a result, food retailers began questioning the economics of locating in high-rent malls with joint costs for common areas and promotions, hours set by mall management and parking lots full of shoppers going to other stores, Williams says.

Now, supermarkets try to provide one-stop shopping by including everything from pharmacies and florists to hardware sections along with traditional food items.

Such combo stores, as they're known in the trade, began in the United States, and if Canada follows suit, consumers can expect to see more and larger stores, Carter says.

Sure enough, Super Carnaval Stores plans to open its largest outlet yet in Montreal in November. Marc Blouin, director of merchandising, says the store will cover 38,000 square metres.

And there has been a dramatic shift in dollars spent on meals eaten outside the home from those eaten at home, says Louise Hunt, an economist with the food markets anaylsis division of Agriculture Canada in Ottawa.

"In 1982, an average Canadian family spent 31 per cent of its total food dollar on food eaten away from home, compared with 22 per cent in 1969," she says.

CHICAGO - CHICAGO - Valerie Birk of suburban Flossmoor, Ill., loves zucchini bread, so she and her husband Tom planted zucchini in their garden without having any idea how much it would yield.

If Birk had told this to an audience of gardeners, her naivete might have elicited a great guffaw. Gardeners know only too well the perils of growing too much zucchini and the humiliation of trying to get rid of it.

In fact, they've been known to crack a few jokes of their own. "Take my zucchini, please," and "nuke the zuke," have crossed the lips of more than a few panic-stricken zucchini growers.

Stuck with the usual bumper crops, they have been known to leave bags of the stuff on friends' doorsteps or on the desks of unsuspecting co-workers.

But a "too much can't hurt" attitude does, says Hal Sanger Jr. of suburban Maywood, Ill. "You lose all your friends, neighbors and relatives."

Still, there must be some reason zucchini, a bland summer squash that sprouts with the ease of fast-food restaurants, is so popular. "It's easy to grow," said Laura Bartoszek, horticulturist with the University of Illinois Cooperative Extension Service of Du Page County.

Despite their moans and groans, many gardeners have a not-so-secret zest for zucchini. Its versatility, and the fact that it contains only 74 calories per pound, being about 95 per cent water, account for its popularity. On the negative side, it's no great shakes nutritionally, with only a dash of vitamin A.

Zucchini, which means "little squash" in Italian, has been pured, sauted, stuffed, fried, frittered, chopped, diced, sliced, minced and mashed, then cooked and baked into breads, cakes, pies, soups, stews, salads, casseroles and meat and poultry dishes.

In Italy, the zucchini's flowers and seeds are considered a delicacy, says Nona Koivula, executive director of the National Garden Bureau. The blooms are coated in batter and sauted. The seeds are baked like pumpkin seeds.

Donna Stronk of New Lenox, Ill., whose zucchini won first place for best edible quality at last year's Will County Fair, sticks with the fruit of the plant and considers it a cook's delight. Zucchini overload is no burden to her and her family, although, she admitted, "we have to eat at least a couple a day to keep up with our crop."

Today's inventive cooks sometimes draw inspiration for new dishes from those of other countries.

For example, one dish that has gained popularity under several names is the Brazilian national dish called Feijoada. In its most complex form, Feijoada calls for 16 to 20 ingredients - all kinds of meat, black beans, fresh vegetables, onion, garlic and other seasonings. It is always served with rice and often has a garnish of sliced oranges. In comparison, the following recipe is simple. As a main dish, all it needs is a salad to accompany it. Brazilian-Style Beans and Rice 2 cups water 1 cup converted-type rice 1 large onion, coarsely chopped

1/2 pound (250 g) sweet Italian sausage, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1/4 pound (125 g) cooked ham, cut into 1/2-inch cubes 1 large clove garlic, minced

1/4 tsp dried red pepper flakes

1/4 tsp pepper 3 tbsp dark rum 1 medium tomato, seeded and diced 1 15-ounce can black beans 2 tbsp finely chopped parsley or fresh cilantro

Grated orange rind, if desired

In a large skillet, bring water to a boil. Stir in rice, onion, sausage, ham, garlic, red pepper flakes and pepper. Cover and simmer 20 minutes. (Just before simmering time is up, drain beans, rinse in very hot tap water and drain again.) Remove rice mixture from heat. Stir in rum. Spoon tomato and beans on top. Let stand covered until all liquid is absorbed - about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley and orange rind. Makes 6 servings.

OTTAWA - OTTAWA (CP) - There was good news for grocery shoppers this week from the Agriculture Department, which said food price increases will stay close to 3 per cent this year.

But the news for farmers at a quarterly agriculture outlook briefing was far from rosy.

Net farm income for 1985 is expected to remain in the $3.6-billion range, down 15 per cent from last year. Net farm income in 1986 may fall below $3 billion.

Healthy supplies of pork and chicken will keep meat prices down and there will be plenty of big turkeys for Thanksgiving and Christmas, the department said.

Apples will be abundant, as will storable vegetables like carrots, potatoes, tomatoes and onions. There will be small increases in dairy product prices.

Agriculture Department officials said farmers' cash receipts were down by 2 per cent this year while their operating costs were still rising.

While federal and provincial relief programs will take some of the sting out of losses caused by this summer's Prairie drought, the shortages of grain will cut into farm income more sharply next year.

The drought is expected to cut $1.1 billion from the value of the Prairie grain crop while damp weather, which has delayed harvesting in northern Saskatchewan and Manitoba, could further reduce farm income.

The drought, plus lower world grain prices, will shave Canada's agricultural trade surplus to $2.2 billion in 1985 from $4 billion for the past three years.

OTTAWA - OTTAWA (CP) - Liberal Leader John Turner, Prime Minister Brian Mulroney and former prime minister Pierre Trudeau are all Mamma's boys.

They're just three of the high-profile types who love the lasagna and rave over the ravioli at Mamma Teresa's restaurant.

Clippings, signed photos of prime ministers and testimonials from Mamma Teresa's celebrity clients paper the front hallway.

"Your cannelloni is good for my constitution," reads the message from former Saskatchewan premier Allan Blakeney.

Turner is a weekly regular at the restaurant and a favorite with the staff.

Its status as an Ottawa institution has survived since Mamma Teresa's moved seven months ago from its home of 14 years on Kent St. to a mellow brick Victorian house at Somerset and O'Connor streets a few downtown blocks away.

A larger-than-life portrait of Mamma Teresa herself hangs over the doorway. The real Mamma Teresa, a tiny white-haired woman with bright hazel eyes, prefers to stay in the kitchen.

"She's shy," explains her son Juliano, as expansive as his mother is retiring.

At 71, Teresa still comes to the restaurant every morning with husband Riccardo to help with the previous night's bills and supervise the savory dishes.

"Food like mama used to make" is no culinary cliche. The recipes for gnocchi, ravioli and lasagna - all specialties - are North American adaptations of Parma region cuisine in Italy.

"You just don't cook the way you do at home," says Juliano, as his mother sits nearby nodding in agreement.

"In Italy, you don't use too much sauce. For lasagna we use a bechamel (white) sauce. These days, no way; the customers want a meat sauce and they want more sauce."

When Mamma Teresa's first opened 15 years ago, Juliano - who also owns Juliano's on Rideau St. - and his mother put in 18-hour days doing all the cooking themselves. All pasta was made by hand. Teresa rubs her shoulder remembering the ache of hand-forming pasta.

Now there are eight cooks stirring and chopping in the white-tiled kitchen. Miles of golden pasta, made of durum flour, regular flour and eggs, flow from the restaurant-volume pasta-making machine Juliano brought from Italy about 12 years ago.

Teresa returns to Italy for regular visits with her two sisters and two brothers. The Bosellis immigrated to Canada 25 years ago from the village of Borgotara in the Parma region, where Juliano's father was a bricklayer. Juliano's career in the restaurant industry began when he was a schoolboy, serving espresso in a restaurant.

"In the early days (of Mamma Teresa's), I worked from five in the morning til one in the morning and I asked my accountant how long before we saw the light at the end of the tunnel. He said it would take five years of hard work - "go the way you're going and you'll succeed.' We really did work hard and now I think we have the best clientele in Ottawa."

OXNARD, CALIF. - OXNARD, Calif. - "I eat what I feel like," boomed the resonant bass voice of Henry Lawrence, the Los Angeles Raiders' giant offensive lineman. "And I do eat a big meal - once in a while."

The 6-foot 4-inch 270-pound tackle, a 12-year veteran of the National Football League, spoke about food while rambling off the team's practice field during the team's recent training camp.

Although food seemed to be an enjoyable subject, Lawrence was somewhat reluctant to confirm the myth that football players have notoriously large appetites.

Known to be the first to arrive and the last to leave the players' dining room, Lawrence said he occasionally piles his plate with much more food than he actually eats.

"Sometimes my eyes are just bigger than my stomach," he said, after denying he was the team chow hound. Instead, Lawrence nominated 170-pound wide receiver Cliff Branch as a human garbage disposal unit, saying he "ate like he had tapeworms, but slowed down in recent years."

Many of the Raiders say they have moderated their eating habits in the past few years, cutting down or eliminating red meats from their diets.

However, someone weighing close to 300 pounds builds an appetite during the course of an average practice day that includes about five hours of strenuous activity.

So when the Raiders are ready for lunch, lunch had better be ready for the Raiders.

Unmistakably, the sight of several dozen players descending upon a buffet line is impressive. But the scene is not one of frenzy; the atmosphere in the dining room is subdued.

Employees at the Oxnard Hilton, where the players stay, say the only incidents approaching unruliness were occasional outbursts of good-natured yelling and the few times Lawrence entered the room singing a few bars from his nightclub repertoire.

A typical afternoon or evening menu will feature two entrees, two hot vegetables, tossed greens, whole and chopped fruit, soup, rolls, dessert and beverages.

The quantities for a single meal feeding the 60 to 70 players, coaches and support personnel might include 100 steaks, 200 chickens, 50 pounds of potatoes, 70 pounds of fruit, 15 gallons of cola, 20 gallons of punch, 5 gallons of soup, 24 heads of lettuce and 15 gallons of ice cream, according to members of the Hilton's kitchen staff.

"This is the most unusual group we've ever had," said Sarah Wasylewski, the Hilton banquet room manager in charge of the Raiders' training table. Wasylewski said the amounts of food consumed by some players are amazing.

"They're big people and giants in the regular world," said Larry Kennan, an assistant coach. "They eat more than me, and I consider myself an average guy. There are some people who might be in awe of their consumption, but the players burn off a lot of energy."

The Hilton would have been the place for any player who wanted to overindulge. Most of the Raiders surveyed found the meals at this year's camp far superior to the fare at their previous summer training site. In fact, the food was so much to their liking that some avoided it.

"This is the Beverly Hills of training tables," said Raiders defensive back Lester Hayes. "If I ate in there I'd weigh 250 pounds."

Hayes, known for his sharp wit and sinister appearance on the field and in Nike shoe billboards, hoped to begin this season at 200 pounds - the lowest playing weight of his professional career. He is cutting his food intake by the heavy use of vitamin and nutritional supplements, coupled with meals consisting mostly of seafood and salad.

Hayes said his approach to eating has evolved throughout his nine years of pro football.

"When a player first comes into the NFL and has money for the first time, after never having any in college, then they eat a lot of garbage food . . . I believe that's genetic for professional football players.

"A salad bar is my destiny," he said, acknowledging that his weakness is oysters on the half shell.

"I tend to eat a lot of seafood and probably about 12 dozen oysters a week - and that's an off week. I love those," he said.

Another Raider shunning the table was defensive lineman Lyle Alzado, notorious for on-the-field toughness.

"I eat a varied diet, and the foods here are not what I like to eat. I'm very health-conscious," he said after surveying the buffet line and finding only melon to his liking.

Alzado, who is 6-feet 3-inches and weighs 260 pounds, avoids greasy or fat-laden foods, preferring dishes such as pasta and high-fibre items.

"Today, players have a better understanding of foods and diet. And they're a lot more careful about what they eat. When I first started playing in the NFL (15 years ago) the guys ate everything. There were guys who would eat 10 chocolate cream pies or 39 eggs - all kinds of stuff," he said.

Providing a long-range perspective on football players' attitudes toward food is Raiders head coach Tom Flores, who was also the team's quarterback in the 1960s.

"When I played in the '60s, meat was the big thing, and the pre-game meal was always steak and eggs. Now, we need a quick energy boost before a game and a meal full of starches is offered, with things like pasta," he said. "So, we've gone from all protein meals to much more vegetables and variety - a more balanced approach."

LONDON, ONT. - LONDON, Ont. - Health officials declared the diarrhea epidemic that claimed the lives of 16 nursing home residents over yesterday. But a resident of a second nursing home was confirmed to be infected with the same deadly bacteria that ravaged Extendicare London during the past three weeks.

Dr. David Korn, Ontario's chief medical officer of health, told reporters, "we are very, very confident that there has been no further transmission and no more spread of the infection (at Extendicare London)." The London nursing home passed its eighth day with no new cases, the maximum incubation period for potential new cases.

Korn said that a resident from Sun Haven in nearby Lambeth was admitted to hospital last Saturday and is now confirmed to be infected with the rare E.coli bacteria that spread through the London nursing home, infecting 71 people - 53 residents and 18 staff. The woman is in fair but stable condition, Korn said.

"Sporadic case'

"There have been no further cases of bloody diarrhea (at Sun Haven)," Korn said. "And it is our considered opinon that this is a sporadic case."

Korn had reported an additional 11 cases of mild diarrhea at Sun Haven but he said that tests for E.coli on stool samples had all come back negative.

Korn said investigators discovered after the Sun Haven resident was admitted to hospital that the woman was "a food hoarder" and sandwiches were found in her room. The sandwiches were "very suspicious," Korn said, and may be the source of the E.coli bacteria.

"We're dealing really with a puzzle and we don't have all the clues," Korn said.

Health officials have said the source of contamination at Extendicare London was ground meat, eaten by staff and residents on Sept. 5, the day temporary kitchen facilities were moved back into the permanent kitchen. The sandwiches prepared that morning, Korn said, may not have been refrigerated.

Two theories

Korn said his team has two theories for the contaminating incident and he will file a full report on the outbreak with Health Minister Murray Elston.

Korn said an inquest, as yet unscheduled, will shed more light on what happened.

Meanwhile, 11 residents remain in hospital and three are in "very poor" condition, with a "guarded" prognosis. Of the 14 residents still in isolation at the nursing home, 11 are about to be released and only one still shows mild diarrhea symptoms, Korn said.

Elston told reporters in Toronto yesterday he was concerned that health ministry officials, including Korn, were not informed for several days about the outbreak.

Ministry officials weren't alerted about the outbreak for five days, he said, and it took another four days before the government's chief medical officer of health in Toronto was notified, he said before a cabinet meeting.

"It raises concerns in my mind about the reporting mechanisms," Elston said. "We didn't know about it for some time afterwards."

Because the victims became sick so rapidly, he said, government officials may not have been able to prevent any of the deaths.

"A short-coming'

But "in a case where there are two or three people starting to come down with the same problem, I think we're going to have to be a little bit tighter in making sure the medical officer of health locally knows about it.

Korn said he agreed "thoroughly" with Elston's comments.

"I acknowledge that it's definitely a shortcoming," Korn said.

Korn also said he wanted to ease public anxiety about the potential spread of the bacteria and to appeal to the public to be careful with their cooking methods.

Trattoria Bucci is a sparkling little North York gem (just south of Steeles Ave.) for lovers of great Italian food and carefree Italian atmosphere. It is a tiny room where the waiters seem so much in the mood that they go around quietly singing along with the Italian tenors on the records that are used for background music.

The printed menu is fairly short, with each dish well explained, which minimizes confusion. But there's a list of daily specials on blackboards that offers almost as many extra choices.

These specials are listed only in Italian, so we found it a challenge to remember how each was prepared, as our waiter rhymed off the ingredients for us. Because of that, we played safe and ordered from the regular menu. All our food, however, turned out to be so remarkably good that we would feel confident now just to let the chef choose for us, which is something we don't say about many places.

For starters, my wife gave high marks to the minestrone ($2.25), and I enjoyed a half-order of a very rich manicotti ($4), made of soft green pasta stuffed with chopped spinach and ricotta cheese.

My wife's main dish was chicken breast ($8.95) done with brandy, hazelnuts and fine herbs in a sweet, rich, cream sauce. She said she had never tasted better. My entree was equally great - veal scallopini pizzaiola ($11.25). The meat was tender without sacrificing its delicate flavor, under a lively sauce of parsley, oregano and tomato, with just a hint of garlic.

Both plates had potatoes done the house way - baked, scooped out and mashed with cream and cheese, then put back in the skin and browned. Fabulous.

Desserts were a chocolate mousse ($3.50) whose flavor was dominated by mint, and a good creme caramel ($2.95).

The bill, including a $7 half-litre of house white wine and tax, was $45.31. - Jack Miller

The Star's daily restaurant review

TABLE FOR TWO Trattoria Bucci 6309 Yonge St. 223-5505 Italian cuisine; seats 55; pasta dishes $6.95 to $7.95, other entrees $8.95 to $15.75; full licence; open for lunch Tuesday to Friday noon to 3 p.m., for dinner Monday to Saturday 5 p.m. to 10.30 p.m., closed Sundays and holidays; easy wheelchair access; no no-smoking area; reservations available; takes major cards.

Squash is something that a lot of cooks overlook when they shop for vegetables. And that's too bad, because this vegetable is versatile and well-priced right now. It can be made into casseroles, mashed for pie fillings and soups or just served steamed with butter. So, if squash baked with sausage and apple stuffing sounds like something your family would enjoy, try this recipe from Rose Murray's Vegetables Cookbook (Lorimer, $12.95). Acorn Squash With Sausage Stuffing 2 medium acorn squash 1 lb (500g) bulk sausage 1 medium onion, chopped 1 clove garlic, finely chopped 3 tbsp chopped fresh parsley 1 1/2 tsp finely chopped fresh thyme or 1/2 tps dried thyme leaves Salt 1 tsp finely chopped fresh sage or 1/4 tsp dried sage Freshly ground black pepper

1 large apple, peeled and finely chopped

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Split squash from end to end, seed and place cut side down, in a baking dish just large enough to hold halves. Add 1 1/2 inches hot water. Bake 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a large heavy frying pan, brown sausage meat, breaking up with a wooden spoon. Add onion and garlic. Cook, stirring, until translucent. Pour off excess fat. Stir in parsley, thyme, salt to taste, sage, 1/4 teaspoon black pepper and apple.

Drain squash. Turn squash halves, sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Fill with stuffing. Bake another 30 minutes or until squash is tender. Makes 4 servings.

DETROIT - DETROIT - Dave Stieb tossed a complete-game, five-hitter at Tiger Stadium last night but - wouldn't you know it? - the gods weren't with him on this night, either.

The bottom of the Tiger order had led off with three straight singles to arrange for two runs in the third. The meat of the Tiger order - Darrell Evans and Kirk Gibson - had opened the sixth with back-to-back homers.

Those were the Tiger hits. The Blue Jays lost, 4-2, and Stieb's oft-rough campaign probably was finished at 14-13 - five wins for his final 13 decisions.

If Stieb were required to make another start this season, it would be either on three days' rest against the Yankees on Sunday or (perish the thought) a possible Monday make-up game against the Orioles.

Open playoffs

"I could go on three days but I'd rather open up the playoffs," he said.

Thankfully, Jays also had rookie Teddy Higuera throwing for them last night. He pitches for Milwaukee, which beat New York at Yankee Stadium last night, 1-0, to reduce Toronto's magic number to two.

Stieb showed little emotion when he heard the news - news that had brightened most other areas of a quiet Toronto clubhouse.

"Yeah, well it's not my idea - probably nobody's idea on this team - of the way to go about doing this," he said. "We'll take it, though; we've given enough away this year."

Stieb walked only one on the night, an indication that the mechanical problems he was dealing with a week or so ago were close to being remedied.

"Good fastball, good slider," Stieb said. "The one Gibson hit (an inside-the-park job to the base off the wall in straightaway centre) . . . well, if he hits it that hard, he deserves it.

"Evans (who dinged his 40th, third in two nights against the Jays)? I mean, what else has the guy got going for him? He's just swinging for homers. What's he got to lose?

"The other two runs were pretty weak. Lemon hits a jam single, Trammell hits a jam single, Brookens just throws his bat out at the ball and singles. A sac fly and there's two runs. If they don't get 'em, we'd still be playing."

Lost in the shuffle - and Stieb can probably find some cheer in this - was the fact that, should he not have to pitch again until the playoffs, he'll bag his first ERA championship.

It was 2.42 going in, 2.46 coming out. Runner-up is Charlie Leibrandt of the Royals at 2.69. Congrats, Dave.

We buy their pineapples; they buy our pork.

In some ways, the $5.8 billion-a-year flow of agricultural products between Canada and the U.S. seems a natural for free trade; and, in fact, much of it does cross the border duty-free.

Yet even the Macdonald royal commission into Canada's economic future, which endorsed the idea of Canada-U.S. free trade in ringing tones, urged caution about acting too quickly on free trade in foodstuffs.

There are, when it comes down to it, a host of reasons why Canada's agricultural industry is leery of opening the borders completely with the U.S.

There's a clash of economic cultures, for one thing, as governments on both sides of the border give farmers substantial aid, but in starkly different ways.

There's sharp division of opinion among Canadian farm groups about the value of free trade, with the big beef and pork industries generally in favor, and many other sectors opposed.

There's the sheer size of the U.S. farm economy, which has the power to roll over some sectors of Canadian farming like a juggernaut.

There's even a gut uneasiness, among city and country dwellers alike, about tampering with the system that supplies us with something so basic as our three meals a day.

And on the U.S. side there are equally strong factors working against freer trade - not the least of which is a decided indifference on the part of the U.S. farming sector.

"Nobody's pushing for it," says John Schnittker, a Washington lobbyist and former deputy secretary of agriculture. "I don't have a single client who is concerned at the moment about (promoting) trade issues with Canada."

In fact, the hottest agricultural trade issue during the past year resulted in the U.S. erecting a new tariff against Canadian hogs.

Although U.S. Commerce Secretary Malcolm Baldrige recently told a Toronto audience that there's a lot of "latent support" for free trade in the farm sector, advocacy on both sides of the border for freer trade is patchy at best.

At the root of the problem is the kind of support both governments offer their farm industries.

Two areas are big flashpoints.

One is the dairy, egg and poultry business, where Canada has national marketing agencies that tell farmers how much they can produce, and that set prices according to the farmers' production costs.

Because Canadian farmers have production limits, the marketing boards also set strict limits on imports.

That kind of formal "supply management" system doesn't exist in the U.S. Free trade between the two countries would either mean that the system would have to be extended to the U.S. - which is extremely unlikely - or scrapped in Canada.

The Macdonald commission did say these national agencies should be phased out, arguing that they boost consumer prices by restricting supplies.

But Canadian politicians from Agriculture Minister John Wise on down firmly support supply management as it currently exists, and so do the main farm lobby groups.

If it were ever threatened, the battle would be fought on a highly emotional level.

Brigid Pyke, vice-president of the Ontario Federation of Agriculture and an eastern Ontario dairy farmer, put the case most forcefully before a Legislature committee last month.

"Supply management protects the family farm" she said. "That system is keeping them in business."

Ontario's 750 or more commercial egg producers could well be cut to three or four giant farms if supply management were scrapped, Pyke said. In fact, half a dozen or fewer "monster" farms centrally located in Manitoba might supply all of Canada.

"You have to look at the social cost of replacing the family farm structure," she argued, adding that there's no guarantee of cheaper average food costs for consumers.

No politician would want to be protrayed as the destroyer of the honest, homespun rural way of life.

Farm groups aren't unanimous, however. Beef and pork producers acknowledge that they've done well by the relatively open border that has generally existed in the trade of live animals and meats.

Both countries have import quotas, but until this year there were almost no tariffs.

Beef and pork producers like to see the border remain open, with farm policies in the two countries harmonized to make trade even easier.

But they're at odds with some meat packers who worry that they might be badly mauled by bigger U.S. meat packers with lower labor costs.

And there's opposition south of the border, too. This year, U.S. pork interests launched a trade action against Canada after watching Canadian hog imports soar. In August,the U.S. slapped a tariff on Canadian hogs.

It was sparked by a the second big bone of contention between the countries.

Canada's federal government had given hog farmers a "stabilization" payment last year, because the price of hogs had fallen below the average of the previous five years. Some provinces - notably Quebec - had provincial subsidies or price supports on top of that.

The U.S. decided that the Canadian hogs were benefiting unfairly from subsidies, and a countervailing duty was levied.

A new national stabilization plan has been proposed, but there's no certainty that it will silence U.S. complaints or end some of the provincial subsidies that have angered American farmers.

U.S. grain growers also accuse Canadians of having an unfair advantage because of the the Canadian Wheat Board, the government agency that markets the major grain crops for western growers, and guarantees farmers payment. And there are complaints about the hundreds of milions of dollars Ottawa pays in grain transportation subsidies.

But U.S. farmers have their own special forms of help.

The U.S. government gives grain farmers special loans, and guaranteed minimum prices. These programs are being hotly debated in Congress right now. No one knows how rich they'll remain, or how a revised U.S. farm policy will affect U.S. attitudes toward Canadian agriculture.

The U.S. has also launched its own heavy subsidy programs in special cases. In 1983, for example, it spent almost $10 billion on a special program to soak up surplus production and reduce planted acreage. This year, it has also started a $2 billion export subsidy program to help recapture world markets that have slipped away during the past decade.

There's a tangle of other subsidy, price support and assistance programs on both sides of the border.

Farmers and politicians in both countries tend to defend their own programs as necessary, while voicing suspicions that the other country's supports are unfair subsidies.

It has resulted in a climate of uneasiness that doesn't lend itself to easy negotiations.

Canadian farm groups aren't just uneasy about the U.S. They don't like their own government's track record on bargaining with Canada's trading partners.

Cattle producers think the government caved in to European blackmail in permitting a flood of subsidized European beef into Canada this year; grape growers complain they're being killed by European wines.

And they're fearful that agricultural policies might be used as bargaining chips, in return for concessions in industrial areas.

"In a free trade negotiation, farmers have little to gain, but far too much to be traded away," says Canadian Federation of Agriculture president Don Knoerr.

The uneasiness isn't helped by the general lack of interest in a free trade pact shown by the U.S. farming industry.

Lobbyist John Schnittker says he simply hasn't detected much interest in the matter - except from groups who stand to lose from it. They, naturally, are opposed.

The few groups who do favor it aren't backed by real political clout in the form of big memberships or big money, he says.

The cause is mainly advanced on a theoretical plane by think tanks and non-profit research bodies, he says.

Paul Drazek of the American Farm Bureau Federation agrees. The federation is the biggest U.S. farmers' lobby group.

U.S. agriculture is preoccupied with drafting the 1985 Farm Bill, which will set domestic farm policy for the next four years, says Drazek.

"There hasn't been a whole lot of attention directed at" free trade with Canada, he says.

Indifference in the U.S., combined with outright hostility from some interest groups won't make the path an easy one.

In the words of a paper from Ontario's ministry of agriculture: "Agriculture will represent a major stumbling block in negotiating a trade enhancement agreement with the United States."

It's common knowledge that acid rain takes a terrible toll on our fish and forests. Now we learn it may be killing our wildlife, too.

Scientists have concluded the rain of death is at least indirectly responsible for making certain portions of game unsafe for human consumption.

The Ministry of Natural Resources warns hunters not to eat moose liver or kidney because of potential hazard to health posed by extremely high levels of cadmium found in those organs. Cadmium is a metallic chemical element occurring in zinc ores.

Granted, there are a lot of nimrods who won't touch liver with a 10-foot pole, probably because their mothers didn't insist they try it when they were kids.

But for many others, moose liver is a traditional feast to celebrate a successful hunt.

Can't be seen

Providing, of course, it doesn't host horribles in the shape of liver fluke and larval tapeworm cysts. Both are common and highly transmittable parasites.

While they're pretty unappetizing, at least what you see is what you get. Unlike those loathsome looking infestations, cadmium can't be seen.

It can be detected through laboratory tests, which so far are conducted only in the Scandinavian countries.

Our natural resources ministry sent Swedish scientists 56 moose kidneys from the Algonquin region, that portion of the province hard hit by acid rain.

The Swedes found cadmium in all of them, at levels as high as 99 milligrams per kilogram. The highest readings were in the kidneys of the older animals, indicating the element is cumulative.

It should be noted that levels of 50-70 mg. per kg. in horses is associated with kidney damage.

Where is the cadmium coming from and what role does acid rain play?

It is being released from bedrock in inordinately large quantities, with acidic precipitation the suspected trigger, just as it's responsible for the leaching of mercury and its subsequent polluting of our waters.

Canadian Coalition on Acid Rain spokesman Michael Perley says: "We have every reason to believe there's a strong possibility that acidic precipitation and the cadmium contamination of moose kidneys are closely related.

"Freed from the bedrock, it may concentrate in the vegetation the animals eat."

While whetails haven't been tested, most likely they are similarly affected. To be on the safe side, deer hunters are well advised to forego a feed of venison liver.

Loony tales Pot shots: Musky men can tell some loony tales. Lunge addict John McFadden of Scarborough says he was angling in Round Lake when he hooked a 32-inch muskellunge, which he revived and released. "When the fish swam off, I stared in disbelief as a loon attacked and killed it." * Because pinks are included in the Pacific salmon creel count, they aren't always welcomed by anglers after coho and chinook. The Ontario Federation of Anglers and Hunters fish committee, which adamantly opposes the dastardly dipnetting of pink salmon, wisely recommends a separate limit for the species. In a classic example of overkill, the Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources has licensed some eight million yards of gill net along Lake Erie's north shore. That's more than enough to stretch from Newfoundland to Vancouver Island! * Deer hunters, same as fishermen, tend to overestimate the weight of their quarry. A basic rule-of-thumb is to add one pound of live weight for each three pounds of dressed weight. In other words, an eviscerated whitetail that tips the scales at 150 pounds, probably went 200 pounds on the hoof. To arrive at a ball park edible meat figure, knock off another 30 per cent. * In southern Ontario, where the ruffed grouse "cyclic low" seems to be on hold year after year, the population stays stuck at rock bottom. Better news from the north, where spruce grouse and their ruffed cousins are both on the rise. When it comes to the pot, the spruce is this writer's choice, its meat being the darkest and moistest.

They are character actors, which is to say they do not get the girl at fadeout. They do not get the $3 million salaries. Their faces look familiar, but you are never sure who they are. Often, though, they get, if not the glory, the best roles.

There is no better demonstration of the possibilities for a character actor than Jagged Edge, the excellent new courtroom thriller written by Joe Eszterhas and directed by Richard Marquand opening in Toronto this weekend. The movie stars Glenn Close as a lawyer reluctantly defending a San Francisco newspaper publisher, played by Jeff Bridges, accused of the brutal murder of his socialite wife. But the movie constantly is stolen out from under the well-shaped noses of the stars by two veteran performers, Robert Loggia, as a profane private investigator, and Peter Coyote, as the smooth, arrogant district attorney. They have the best roles in the film, and they make the most of them in the way that the finest character actors have always made the most with the least. They are two guys who still have to fight hard for the good roles.

1. The Swashbuckler Who Never Was. Years ago, when Robert Loggia was acting in The Nine Lives Of Elfredo Baca for Walt Disney (he accurately refers to the mini-series as a trivia question), a veteran stunt man took him to one side. The stunt man was full of praise. Not since the days of Douglas Fairbanks had he seen an actor with such natural grace and ability for action work. It is, Loggia said not long ago, one of his enduring disappointments that he missed the age of the great swashbluckler movies when he could have put his dexterity to good use.

He got an opportunity of sorts in T.H.E. Cat, the TV series for which he is probably best rememembered. But these days, his swinging from yardarms is restricted, not by age, but by roles that require richly drawn acting moments from him rather than beautifully choreographed action.

He has, he said, been exceedingly lucky in the last few years. He played the Miami mob boss who lost his drug empire and his wife to Al Pacino in Scarface. He was one of the Prizzi gangsters in Prizzi's Honor, which was released this summer. And now he is Sam Ransom, in Jagged Edge. It is one of the best roles he has ever played.

"It's a real gas to play a guy like that," Loggia said, "to get it on with an actress like Glenn Close, and stay away, with all due respect, from television. I've been able to keep going, working with top people in carefully structured and rehearsed films. I'm sort of enjoying this phase of my career."

He attributed his recent successes not to any great talent, but to "holding the fort." He was concerned last fall that with no movies on the horizon, he would have to go back to episodic televison, the spectre hanging just over his shoulder. He had been set to do the Broadway musical version of the hit comedy film Victor/Victoria. It was to be directed by his old friend Blake Edwards, with whom he had done a number of the Pink Panther pictures. Loggia was to play the role of the gangster portrayed by James Garner in the movie. Then Edwards became ill, and the show was cancelled. But then in a single week, he won juicy roles in not only Prizzi's Honor but in Jagged Edge. He was immensely relieved. Those two movies would take care of the next year. He would not have to do television, after all. In his hotel suite, Loggia stretched out contentedly. "I'm not in demand like a Burt Reynolds or a Paul Newman where I have a stack of scripts," he said. "But even those guys . . . Paul Newman was lamenting the fact that he hasn't done a picture in a long time, nothing in the offing, projects are hard to come by." He smiled wearily. "Everyone has his own problem."

2. The Rent Payer. In the 1960s, Peter Coyote was a bona fide hippie. "I was way, way out on the edge of the radical movement," he recalled. "I was part of a family called The Diggers. We were robbing meat trucks at a certain point to feed people." In the '70s he was chairman of Governor Jerry Brown's Council For the Arts. In the '80s, he was the featured player in E.T., the most popular movie ever made.

As an actor, he has his wins. And his losses. He beat out James Woods for the role of the district attorney in Jagged Edge. In turn, Woods was chosen over Coyote for the lead in Joshua Then And Now. "That's just an actor's life," he said with a shrug. "And strangely enough, we both said the same thing: At least we lost it to a good actor. I don't know why that helps, but strangely enough, it does."

Coyote is tall, lanky New York born - "I'm Jewish by birth and Jewish culturally," he said. "My uncle was a gangster, a kind of arbitrator for New York gangs. My dad was also a very tough street fighter." None of the foregoing is suggested in his face. Instead, its benignly reassuring structure somehow bespeaks Americana, and puts everyone in mind of Henry Fonda. With his flat, laconic drawl, he even sounds like Fonda. Most people, if they know him at all know him as the Government Man with the jangling keys in E.T. - The Extraterrestrial. The fact that he appeared in the most popular film ever made, though, did not make him a star. He joked that he was the only actor whose career actually foundered after E.T. He said he did not work for a year.

Even now, Coyote continues to have to scramble for roles. He was eloquent about the parts he loves, the one in E.T., the attorney in Jagged Edge ("It's one of those films Hollywood does impeccably"). The others he disdained as mere "rent." "You find yourself making those choices all the time," he said. "I was 38 before I began acting (in movies). I'm 44 now. I've got a 16-year-old daughter who is in school, a house to pay off. I don't live fat at all.

"But by the time you are in your 40s, you have a developed life. I just am not going to go to my daughter and say, "hon, you're going to have to drop out of your school this year because I don't want to do a Walt Disney movie. That's a little too precious for me. I believe in the English tradition that you take the best work you can find, and you do your best at it."

They say true baseball fans sit in the bleachers.

Blue Jay fans sure proved that last night at Exibition Stadium as the Bleacher Bums were ready for what they hoped was a pennant-clinching party.

At 5.30 p.m., two hours before game time against the New York Yankees, they began moving into the first-come-first-served seats until the entire north grandstand was filled.

At the time, the Blue Jays were taking batting and fielding practice.

Cheers rose after each Jay hit a ball over the left-field fence. The cheering didn't stop.

"Man, they are nuts," joked third baseman Garth Iorg, getting ready to take his whacks in BP.

Players help

Some of the Blue Jay players out shagging fly balls left field added to the fans' hysteria.

They would periodically toss baseballs over the fence like a zookeeper throwing meat to the lions.

Later, when the Yankees were out warming up, one of their players tossed a ball over the fence.

"Give it back, give it back," chanted the crowd.

The fan who got the ball hung on to it in spite of peer pressure. No Yankees tossed them balls.

"Taunting the Yankees is so much fun," said Jeremy Logan, 16, of Willowdale hurling insults over the fence at the men in the black warmup uniforms. "I hate all those Yankees and we're going to have no problem beating them."

The fans didn't boo the American national anthem as some expected. Yankee fans booed O Canada when the Jays were in New York last month.

"We're not going to sink to their level," said Logan, already sporting a Blue Jay "American League Champions" button.

Iorg said the bleacher noise wouldn't pump the team up "because we don't need anymore pumping up." But the players sure noticed the folks in the cheap seats last night.

Praise from Stieb

"They're awesome," said Dave Stieb before the game. "I wouldn't have them over for dinner, but they are great."

This was the first series that all tickets, including general admission, were sold out beforehand.

Pat Salmon brought his family to the game with tickets he bought a month ago.

They got to the park around 6:15 p.m. and the best seats they could find were in Section 48, about 500 feet beyond the fence in right centre.

The fence is another 400 or so feet from homeplate.

"We got here too late for any better, but it doesn't really matter," said Salmon.

His 13-year-old daughter, Kristin, sat beside him with crutches at her feet. She has a spranged ankle.

"But I'm still going to get up and do the wave," said Kristin, enjoying her second-ever Blue Jay game.

Steve Pike and a couple friends sure had huts last night.

The college students from Buffalo are devout Yankee fans and they wore Yankee hats in the bleachers to prove it.

"I was born a Yankee fan," said Pike, 22, as Jay supporters began booing him for wearing the Yankee helmet.

"We don't figure we'll get hassled by Toronto fans," he said.

But he hadn't heard about Yankee fans throwing beer and food at Jay fans in New York last month.

NEW YORK - NEW YORK - The meat industry is finally recognizing the needs of baby-boomers and their preoccupations with health and good-eating.

That was the message from a consortium of Hereford, Tex., breeders who introduced a new brand of beef here recently with a pitch as familiar as those for low-cal soda or diet margarine: It has, they claim, fewer calories, less fat and cholesterol, but the same taste.

"We have a growing group of consumers who want it all, and the beef industry has to address that," says Gordon Davis of Texas Tech University, a technical adviser to Chianina Lite Beef Inc. The product of that group's cross-bred cattle will be sold under the Key-Lite brand name and could be available in selected restaurants and by mail order later this year.

Commissioned by 31 breeders, Davis's tests revealed that a pure-bred Chianina - the first syllable is pronounced "key" - and those cross-bred with Angus produce meat comparable in flavor, juiciness and tenderness to the usual North American beef cattle.

The new samples boasted 25 per cent less total fat content and as much as 36 per cent fewer calories than other typical cattle breeds, the studies showed. And, the Chianina cuts contained 40 per cent less intramuscular fat, or marbling - the kind that cannot simply be trimmed with a knife.

This low-cal beef comes at a time when consumption of the meat is plummeting, cattle herds are at a quarter-century low and producers are hurting.

Canadian beef consumption peaked in 1976 at 51 kilograms (carcass weight) annually per capita and now is down to 38 kilograms.

This new breed of beef "could lead millions of Americans to reconsider beef as a basic component of their diets," said Davis.

"I'm not sure if there's any such thing as a yuppie," adds Chianina Lite spokesman Robert Finklea before a meal of standing rib roast that was 7/16 Chianina and 9/16 Angus. "But there's a generation of people from the '50s and '60s that changed their value system and how they take care of themselves."

The new firm has made deals with feedyards and meat packers in Texas and midwestern states, and hopes to begin direct-marketing the product later this year. Breeders in the close-knit Chianina network hope to have sizable herds developed by 1987 although, as Davis admitted, quick response from the beef industry could accelerate the growth of other types of low-fat breeds and other methods of producing them.

The Chianina line dates back to the Roman Empire but was not brought to North America until the '70s, when it was bred with Angus and other domestic strains. The breed was brought through Canada first, in 1972, because the United States did not at that time have off-shore quarantine facilities such as those used by Agriculture Canada in the St. Lawrence River. Chianina cattle entered the United States the following year.

They are long-legged and vigorous, not as stocky as North American cattle, and are well-suited to grazing in wide-open spaces.

Perry Wilkes, who is director of beef programs for Western Breeders Service Ltd., in Balzac, Alta., north of Calgary, recently bought a half-interest in a 7/8 Chianina bull for his firm.

"Everything's lite beer and low-cal today, and there's quite a bit of negative pressure from the younger generation on cholesterol. They think they're gonna die tomorrow," Wilkes explains with a chuckle. But he acknowledges that the industry is responding by seeking lean and tender cross-breeds, with Chianina being one accepted route.

"If that's what the people want," he concludes, "we've got to have it."

In August, the "lite" label was approved by the United States Department of Agriculture, requiring that the grade contain 25 per cent less calories or fat than typical beef (or be used on any package that contains less than 10 per cent fat, the latter a tall order in the best of circumstances). Prices have not yet been set, but they are expected to lean toward the premium side.

"If the USDA has created a grade for this," Wilkes maintains, "it's pretty well researched. They wouldn't do it just to please the beef industry."

Now, even fast-food advertising stresses quality rather than simply convenience, and the latest meat propaganda drives home the point that beef gives strength - and with fewer calories and less cholesterol than consumers might think.

Meanwhile, the emergence of this new cross-breed puts some Chianina breeders at the cutting edge of a trend they hope will revolutionize the meat industry.

"It's where applied animal science and your imagination work together," says breeder Douglas Cooper, who sold Wilkes his Chianina bull, "and the limiting factor is your imagination."

Eunice Murray would say later that she was not sure what prompted her to awaken that night, step from her bedroom and notice a telephone cord leading under Marilyn Monroe's bedroom door.

The housekeeper, who said Monroe was a light sleeper who always kept her phones under a pillow outside the room at night, found the door locked. She grabbed a fireplace poker, walked outside and pushed back the drapes on an open bedroom window that was protected by security bars. From there, she could see the blonde actress lying undressed on the bed with her hand on the phone.

Murray went back into the house and telephoned Monroe's psychiatrist, Dr. Ralph Greenson, who had hired Murray to care for Monroe. Then Murray telephoned the actress' personal physician, Dr. Hyman Engelberg, and asked him to come over.

When Greenson arrived at 3:40 a.m. on Aug. 5, 1962, he took the poker from Murray and broke open a bedroom window not protected by bars and climbed through. Murray waited for nearly two minutes by the bedroom door until the psychiatrist emerged saying: "We've lost her."

At 3:50 a.m., Engelberg arrived and pronounced the 36-year-old screen legend dead.

It would be another 35 minutes before Engelberg notified police.

Twenty-three years later, Marilyn Monroe's death continues to generate controversy and focus new attention on the events surrounding her death by drug overdose and on the thoroughness of the investigations that followed.

Through the years, questions have been raised about whether she was murdered because of her association with John and Robert Kennedy; the exact time the actress' body was discovered; where she got the pills that killed her, and why an ambulance was dispatched to the scene when official reports indicate that she was lifeless when found.

Today, however, new questions are being raised about the conduct of the late actor Peter Lawford and whether he, in an effort to protect the Kennedys, participated in a cover-up after Monroe's death. Lawford was married to Patricia Kennedy at the time.

The allegations come from Deborah Gould, the third of Lawford's four wives, and from Fred Otash, once known as Mr. O, the king of Hollywood private eyes, whose clients included Frank Sinatra, Errol Flynn, Lana Turner, Howard Hughes and Judy Garland.

Gould was married to the actor for only a few weeks in 1976. She said it was then that Lawford told her details about Monroe's death and her alleged romantic flings with John and Robert Kennedy.

Gould said Lawford broke down and told her that Monroe had been distraught over a love affair with Robert Kennedy. She said Lawford recalled telling Monroe on the phone on the night of her death: "My God, Marilyn, don't leave any note behind!"

She said Lawford went to Monroe's house that night and destroyed a note he had found. She said Lawford was to "cover up all the dirty work and take care of everything."

Gould's account is contained in a new book, Goddess: The Secret Lives Of Marilyn Monroe by Anthony Summers, who spent several years investigating the case with members of an independent television documentary team. The documentary, produced by the British Broadcasting Corp., is to be released worldwide this month. Gould was paid for her interview. She refused to be interviewed by The Times.

Asked by BBC interviewers why she was coming forward at this time, she replied, "I'm only doing it because I feel something good perhaps can come out of this."

In an emotional interview with The Times from his hospital bed months before his death last Christmas Eve, Lawford tearfully denied Gould's assertion, which appeared before his death in a German magazine.

"It's all a fabrication. You can put me on a lie detector right now and tell me about that and the needle won't move." The Times offered to provide a lie detector test for Lawford but later, on the advice of his attorney, he retracted the offer.

"It didn't happen the way she's talking," Lawford said. "Even if those things were true, I wouldn't talk about them.... That's just the way I am. Plus the fact, I have four children. I'm not going to embarrass them. I'm not going to embarrass the rest of the family."

Lawford's last wife, Patricia Seaton Lawford, said of Gould's assertion: "I think Deborah Gould is fantasizing about a lot of stuff. Her only credibility is that she was married to him a short time."

Recently, Gould's story has been buttressed by Fred Otash, who decided to break 23 years of silence on the case.

Otash said that shortly after midnight on Aug. 5, 1962 - hours before police were notified of Monroe's death - Lawford called him to say something traumatic had happened. Lawford and Otash agreed to meet at the private eye's Laurel Avenue office. Otash said Lawford arrived about 2 a.m. looking "half crocked and half nervous."

Interviewed last week by telephone from his home in Cannes, France, Otash told The Times:

"He (Lawford) said he had just left Monroe and she was dead and that Bobby had been there earlier. He said they got Bobby out of the city and back to Northern California and would I go on out there and arrange to do anything to remove anything incriminating from the house.

"He said, "I took what I could find and I destroyed it - period.' But he said, "I'm so out of it, I would feel better if you went there.' I said, "I'm not going out there. First, I'm too well-known.' "

Otash said he called a man skilled in installing listening devices whom he had worked with over the years and sent him to Monroe's house, along with an off-duty Los Angeles police officer.

"When they got there, from what they tell me, the place was swarming with people. They were incapable of sweeping the place or anything."

Otash said Lawford told him that Monroe and Robert Kennedy had had a fight over their relationship - whether he was going to marry her - and he left the Brentwood house.

"He (Kennedy) went over to Lawford's and said: "She's ranting and raving. I'm concerned about her and what may come out of this,' " Otash said, quoting the actor. "According to Lawford, he had called her and she had said to him that she was passed around like a piece of meat. She had had it. She didn't want Bobby to use her anymore. She called the White House and there was no response from the president. She was told he (John Kennedy) was in Hyannisport and she didn't connect with him. She kept trying to get him.

"He (Lawford) had tried to reason with her to quiet down and come to the (Lawford's) beach house and relax. She said, "No, I'm tired. There is nothing more for me to respond to. Just do me a favor. Tell the president I tried to get him. Tell him goodby for me. I think my purpose has been served.' "

Otash said Lawford tried to call Monroe back but the phone was off the hook.

"(He said) Bobby got panicky," Otash recalled. "Bobby asked, "What's going on?' He (Lawford) said: "Nothing. That's the way she is.' "

Otash, the quintessential private eye of the 1950s - tough, hard-drinking and street smart - admitted having had run-ins with the Kennedys over the years, saying he investigated them from time to time. Otash, former manager of the Hollywood Palladium who is now retired from private investigating, said he had performed work for the late Teamsters President Jimmy Hoffa and some famous mob figures.

Otash, 63, said he had remained silent over the years about the Monroe case because "I didn't see any purpose of getting involved.... I'm not being paid. I'm not writing a book. I'm not making a point. If I wanted to capitalize on my relationship in this matter, I would have written my own book."

Lawford did not live to reply to Otash's remarks.

His widow, however, confirmed that Lawford had sought out the private investigator on various occasions, including the day of Marilyn Monroe's death.

"Peter told me he had used Otash for different situations at different times," Patricia Seaton Lawford told The Times. "I had heard he (Otash) had worked for Sinatra and different people throughout that period."

She said her husband told her that he had gone to Otash for assistance sometime after Monroe's body was discovered.

"He approached Otash afterward," she said. "I think what was a concern was the girl had committed suicide. Peter never discussed when or at what point in time Otash's services were rendered, but he did mention his name to me on many occasions.

"I don't know exactly what it was about," she said, referring to Lawford's visit to Otash. "But I think it was to make sure that nothing would harm Peter's family."

She said Lawford had told her that the week before Monroe's death, he and others had helped the actress get through a suicidal period at the Cal-Neva Lodge in Lake Tahoe.

"He mentioned to me she had taken a lot of sleeping pills and had been drinking a lot (at the Cal-Neva) and she was in really bad shape," Mrs. Lawford said. She did not know what triggered Monroe's anguish.

But she dismissed as "total nonsense" assertions by Otash and Gould that Lawford had gone to Monroe's residence and destroyed a suicide note.

"Peter is hardly the type to sneak through a house," she said. "The picture Deborah painted of him was that he was a second-storey man. To me it was hysterical."

Mrs. Lawford, 27, had lived with the actor since she was 17. She married him five months before his death and is currently writing his biography. Deputy District Attorney Ronald H. Carroll, who headed a 1982 reinvestigation of the Marilyn Monroe case for the

district attorney's office, said had he known of Otash's statements at that time, Lawford's actions would have been scrutinized more closely.

"It would have been pursued," Carroll said. "However, whether it would have been included in our report would depend on whether it had relationship to circumstances of her death. If it had to do with conduct after her death that was not criminal, such as a delay in calling police, it would not have had an impact on our report.

"If there had been a crime to begin with and there was a cover-up, clearly that would have been criminal," Carroll continued. "If she was despondent and wrote a note saying "Bobby Kennedy drove me to suicide,' it is not clear that the taking of that note would have been a crime."

Carroll, whose investigation took 3 1/2 months, concluded that there were insufficient facts to warrant opening of a criminal investigation into Monroe's death.

But the prosecutor said he and his investigator found discrepancies that were historically interesting.

"There is a discrepancy in the initial (police) reports," Carroll said. "They report she was found around 3:40 a.m. and police don't get called until 4:25. Why the hell the delay? Why do you wait that long in the interim?

"There were two areas that caused us some concern," Carroll said "One was the source of medication. We could account for some of it, but not all of it. The other was the delay (in notifying police)."

Monroe's physician, Hyman Engelberg, told the district attorney's office that after finding her dead, he was stunned and remained in the bedroom with psychiatrist Greenson for about half an hour discussing her death.

"Dr. Engelberg explained he didn't usually notify police on this type of case, but due to Marilyn's notoriety, decided to call," the district attorney's file states.

Prosecutors said 15 various bottles of pills were found at the scene of Monroe's death. Eight vials were supplied to the coroner's office, including an empty container labeled Nembutal and another labeled chloral hydrate. Carroll said reports did not contain the name of the prescribing physicians, nor were the vials preserved.

He estimated, however, that she would have had to take in excess of 25 pills - and possibly as many as 40 or more - to commit suicide.

As for Lawford, there is no indication that he was interviewed by authorities immediately after the death, although an attempt was made by Los Angeles police.

In his 1962 follow-up report, Detective R.E. Byron said that officers tried to interview Lawford but that they were told by his secretary that Lawford had taken a plane trip and that the secretary did not expect to hear from him.

Police did not interview Lawford until 1975, when he talked officially of his phone calls with her on the final night. That confidential police file was made public last week by Police Chief Daryl F. Gates.

In 1982, Lawford told the district attorney that he learned of Monroe's death at 1:30 a.m. and was positive about the time because he looked at a bedside clock after receiving the phone call from his manager.

In his 1984 interview with The Times, Lawford recounted again what happened that night.

Lawford said he told Monroe that night that "five or six" people were coming over to play poker at his beach house.

"It was about 6 or half-past 6 and she said to me, "Peter, I don't think I'm going to make it tonight because I just don't feel well.'

"I said, "Oh, Marilyn, come on.' It was starting to rain. I said, "Come on down, you can go home early. Call me back. Dinner won't be until 8 or 8:30.' She said, "OK, I'll call you back.' So she rang back. I could hear the depression really moving in on her. She said, "I really don't think I can come down tonight.' "

Lawford said she replied: "Will you say goodby to Pat, and to Jack and to yourself, because you're a nice guy."

Lawford said he tried to verbally slap Monroe, saying, "Hey, Marilyn, what is that... ? Come on now!" She said, "You've all been so nice to me.' He said, "Marilyn!'

"I started to really get angry and frightened," he recalled. "She said: "I'll see. I'll see.' And she hung up.... I tried to ring her back and it was busy. It was busy, busy, busy for an hour and a half. Now, to this day, I've lived with this. I should have got into my car and gone straight to her house. I didn't do it."

At this point in the interview, Lawford broke down and cried.

He said he telephoned his manager, Milton Ebbins, and asked Ebbins to contact psychiatrist Greenson and Milton (Mickey) Rudin, Monroe's attorney, and have them check on her because he had a "bad feeling."

"I went to dinner," he continued. "My head wasn't there. I was worrying about it. Don't ask me why I didn't get up and go. I kept rationalizing, "No, she's not going to do that,' so I called Ebbins back about 9:30 and he was out. He rang me between 11 and 12 (midnight). He said, "I finally got hold of Rudin, who was getting hold of Greenson.' He said, "They're on their way over there.' "

Ebbins told The Times that "Rudin called me from the house and told me they'd just broken in and found the body."

Rudin was interviewed briefly in 1962 by Detective Byron but said only that he telephoned housekeeper Murray at 9 p.m. and asked her if Monroe was all right. Told that she was, Rudin said he dismissed the possibility of anything further being wrong. Rudin, who was Greenson's brother-in-law, has remained silent on the case ever since.

There was no formal coroner's inquest into Monroe's death in 1962. Because the death appeared to be a suicide, the main investigative agency handling the case was the Los Angeles County coroner's office, then run by Dr. Theodore J. Curphey.

Rather than conduct a public inquest, Curphey decided to appoint a three-member team of mental-health professionals to probe into Monroe's background. Their report, which concluded that her death was a probable suicide, was issued in 11 days.

Psychologist Norman Farberow, who was a member of the team, said he was not aware in 1962 that Lawford had talked on the phone to the despondent actress shortly before her death, although Los Angeles newspapers carried front-page stories on Lawford's reported final conversation at the time.

"Nobody mentioned, at least to me, that she had made a call to Lawford," Farberow recalled. "So that his involvement was something that was not pursued and was not known at that time." Farberow also said he was never told of Rudin.

Still unresolved is whether Robert Kennedy was in Los Angeles at the time of Monroe's death.

Kennedy had attended a meeting of the American Bar Association in San Francisco that weekend and then, according to official reports, went with his wife and children to the home of friends on a farm in Gilroy.

Carroll and his investigator, Alan Tomich, found no evidence in 1982 that Kennedy was in Los Angeles that day.

Carroll, however, did reveal to The Times that, in 1982, Los Angeles Superior Court Commissioner John Dickie told him that he (Dickie) conducted a secret investigation in 1962 of Monroe's death for then-Chief Deputy District Attorney Manley J. Bowler. Carroll said Dickie apparently found that Kennedy had been at the Beverly Hilton Hotel the day of her death. Dickie's report, if it exists, has not been found. Dickie refused to be interviewed, and Bowler is dead.

Former Mayor Sam Yorty recalled being told by then-Police Chief William Parker that Kennedy was in town that weekend.

"Chief Parker told me that he knew Bobby Kennedy was at the Hilton Hotel the night she died and he (Kennedy) was supposed to be in Fresno," Yorty recalled. "I just remember we talked about it. I don't think there is any police department file on that. I think the chief kept the file separately. As mayor, I sent for it later when the chief died, and they didn't have it."

A few weeks ago there was nothing to watch on TV. Now there's too much.

Hard choices will have to be made tonight as CBC-TV premieres a delightful three-hour TV movie, Love And Larceny starring Jennifer Dale and Kenneth Welsh. It's based on the true-life exploits of a Canadian con artist, Betsy Bigley, who fooled them all from Woodstock to New York city.

Over on CTV and NBC there's yet another version of William Faulkner's The Long Hot Summer. This adaptation is very long - two two-hour episodes complete with numerous shots of Don Johnson's crotch and Cybill Shepherd's plunging neckline.

Love And Larceny starts first, on Channels 3 and 5 at 8 while Part One of The Long Hot Summer is on Channels 2, 9 and 13 at 9.

Both productions are far superior to most TV fare but both suffer from creeping TV elephantitis. Love And Larceny was originally written as a three-part mini-series and would certainly play better in episodes. Watching it all at once left me a bit fatigued.

The Long Hot Summer would have made a dandy two-hour TV movie. At four hours it's terribly padded. It reeks of steamy Southern sex, women in halter tops panting after a bronzed Don Johnson in his torn T-shirt.

But of the two projects Love And Larceny is the more successful. It's an original work, directed with a sharp sense of the period by Rob Iscove (Chatauqua Girl). The photography is strikingly evocative and the film seems far more expensively made than the American one.

For once Dale does not coast by on her extraordinary beauty. She makes you root for this Betsy although most of Miss Bigley's activities were criminal. She bilked banks on both sides of the border, always relying on the expertise of the stronger sex to get her out of the slammer.

Her reasons for doing so were mixed. She had a small son to support but so did other single women. She needed money to buy back the family farm. Betsy thumbed her nose at conventions and went her merry way. Her prestidigitations kept rich suitors fascinated for 20 years.

Betsy was dazzled by her own audacity but so were a string of suitors. Brent Carver plays the first, a baby-faced con artist all his own. Douglas Rain shines as the older lawyer in love with her; on their wedding night he passes away from sheer excitement. The supporting cast is a veritable who's who of scene stealing characters: Chris Wiggins, Kenneth Pogue, Ross Petty and the late Steve Weston. Betsy was something of a Victorian Moll Flanders caught in her own conception of The Sting.

We're far more familiar with the outlines of the Faulkner story which made a memorable 1958 film (running a mere 117 minutes). Most of the story is taken from Faulkner's novella, "The Hamlet" but it has been updated to the contemporary South. Even swamp bottom Southerners don't speak this way any more and women certainly educated schoolmarms don't spend all their time searching for a husband, any husband. The loud rock music over the opening credits is completely wrong, as if Miami Vice had moved over to the Deep South.

Jason Robards is the perfect little Big Daddy, the kind of actor who can drawl convincingly, "The world belongs to the meat eaters."

Johnson comes off adequately as the enigmatic stud, Ben Quick. For one thing he's far too handsome. Didn't Faulkner say Quick sported "a broad, cold, wind-gnawed face and bleak, cold eyes"? Johnson is cuddly and cute rather than savage and threatening.

Cybill Shepherd is, well, Cybill Shepherd. Her accent comes and goes as a fly on flypaper (to use a Faulknerism). Ava Gardner has a tiny part as Robards' aging mistress but she's hardly as memorable as 1958's Angela Lansbury.

KANSAS CITY, MO. - KANSAS CITY, Mo. (Staff) - The mayor of this city, Richard Berkley, the man who calls himself Dick B, has issued a challenge to Toronto Mayor Art Eggleton.

Berkley is putting the city's best barbecue, a generic term here for their specialty, any type of barbecued meat, on his city's Royals against whatever Eggleton will wager on the Blue Jays as the two teams square off in the American League playoffs.

How much, Dick?

"That depends what your guy puts up," he said. "Two ounces of our barbecue is comparable to great quantities of many other things."

It was cool and windy, downright uncomfortable when it drizzled and the rain gusted right into the faces of the fans at Exhibition Stadium.

But on this gray October afternoon, it didn't matter to the 44,608 live audience because the Blue Jays finally locked up the American League East Division title, beating New York Yankees, 5-1, in the clincher.

The Jays got a classic pitching performance from the old master, 35-year-old Doyle Alexander, who tossed a five-hit masterpiece for his 17th win of the campaign.

Jays 5, Yankees 1

That was probably the bitterest pill of all for owner George Steinbrenner of the Yankees to swallow, because he is paying the bulk of Alexander's salary from his four-year guaranteed contract that still has a year to go.

That's sort of like hiring a hit-man for your own execution.

And for the first time since last Sunday, the Blue Jays swung the bats. Everybody in the lineup had a hit, drove in a run or scored one, although it was a home run by Ernie Whitt and back-to-back blasts by Lloyd Moseby and Willie Upshaw that highlighted the Jays' outburst.

As third baseman Rance Mulliniks was saying during batting practice, "we didn't lose last night because of the home run, or the dropped ball, we lost because we were not scoring any runs."

He referred to Friday's horror, when the Jays blew a 3-2 lead with two out in the ninth on a Yankee home run and an error by centre-fielder Lloyd Moseby, losing 4-3.

Alexander's 99-pitch, no-walk performance yesterday was a textbook on how to handle the Yankees.

"I don't drink that stuff," the usually dour Doyle said as he sipped on a beer, and declined a sip of the champagne offered by teammate George Bell.

"I love you, buddy," said Bell as he embraced Alexander in a bear hug.

"I feel just great," said Alexander, who was working with three days rest, one less than his normal routine. "It's something we've been working on all year long, and it finally happened.

"No," he said, "it didn't make any difference that we beat the Yankees. I don't care as long as we win.

"It's the first time for a lot of guys on this team. A lot of great players never even had a chance to go to the World Series. Sometimes it is a one-time opportunity.

"If you can't get excited about something like this, there is something wrong.

"But don't forget, the pressure was on them (the Yankees). They had to beat us."

A couple of lockers away, Moseby and Upshaw were dousing each other with champagne.

"I didn't sleep at all last night," said Moseby, whose error had permitted the winning run to score Friday night. "There was not one doubt in this clubhouse. There were a lot of smiles and gestures today, and I knew somehow, we would pull it out.

"Hey, we've done it, we've done it.

"Hey, Willie, you're a champ."

Great defence

While Upshaw's homer helped, he also deserved a big assist for a defensive play in the fourth inning that helped ease Alexander through a potential trouble spot when the Yankees scored their lone run.

After Ken Griffey doubled to lead off the inning, Don Mattingly smashed a sharp grounder to Upshaw's glove side. The first baseman made a diving stop, then flipped to Alexander, who was there to cover the bag in plenty of time.

"It was simply reaction," said Upshaw. "Doyle had kept the ball away from him so well, but he pulled it. The turf was wet, and the ball scooted. I just came up with it and Doyle was there.

"It saved a run, maybe a rally by the Yankees. He's a money pitcher," praised Upshaw. "And Lloyd and I were hitting back to back for the first time in a long time. I was really happy about that."

Moseby and Upshaw, the former three and four hitters in Jay batting order, were hitting second and third yesterday. Moseby had also adjusted his batting stance, moving back off the plate more than usual.

"We just went out and hit a little extra," said batting coach Cito Gaston. "and Lloyd and I talked about making his bottom hand a little quicker. I'm so happy, I could cry."

"I think Lloyd was really patient, he waited until he got something he could hit," noted Rance Mulliniks.

Career mark

Whitt's homer was his 19th, a career high for the catcher, and the blow that got the Jays started. It was his third in the last six games, and he was the only Jay to hit one in that span. Moseby and Upshaw followed suit an inning later.

"Every one chipped in and got it going," said Whitt. "Doyle threw super. He kept the ball consistently away, and with his type of control, he was very effective."

There was a gale blowing to right field, but it didn't bother Alexander.

"Their lefties (lefthanded hitters) never got close to the fence," pointed out general manager Pat Gillick.

"He's the King of the Hill," said pitcher Tom Filer. "He's really something."

In the ninth inning, facing the meat of the Yankee lineup, Mattingly, Winfield and Ron Hassey, Alexander set them down in order on six pitches - all strikes.

"I can't believe it. He's always on top of the hitter," said shortstop Tony Fernandez. "I was laughing, just watching him work."

Most of the countries of western Europe have space ministers in their cabinets, which shows they treat the idea of living and working in orbit someday as a prime goal.

Those countries are also trying to scrape up enough money to build a space station of their own, although they admit they won't be able to swing this big a deal until long after the U.S. space station goes up (perhaps in 1993). So they have signed on as junior partners in that U.S. station - to keep their hand in, so to speak.

But while the enormity of the cost of a space station challenges the combined wealth of a whole subcontinent, France alone, with its usual flair, has taken on the more glamorous and almost as expensive job of creating the world's second flyable manned spaceship.

"Sports-car' shuttle

This will be a smaller, more streamlined, sports-car of a chariot, compared to the truck-like space shuttles that have made the U.S. the leader in the game. The crafty French, knowing their financial limits, realize also that smaller is cheaper. And on top of that, they have said any other European country is welcome to join in the glamor (and the cost).

If this sounds glib, don't misunderstand. They all laughed when France said it would develop its own big rocket for space business, but the Ariane exists and has been accepted as the launcher for many of Europe's present-day satellites and for the eventual European space station.

Planning is under way already for Ariane-5, a beefed up version of the rocket looking a lot like the three-part launch vehicles that boost the American shuttles into orbit.

The French "spaceplane," as they're calling it, is named the Hermes. There are preliminary drawings of it and dimensions. The sporty little Hermes is to be 16 metres (52 feet) long with a 10-metre (33-foot) wingspan, having room for four to six astronauts and 4,500 kilograms (9,921 pounds) of freight in a cargo bay three metres (10 feet) across and five metres (16 feet) long. (The U.S. shuttles are about 37 metres (121 feet) long with a 23.6-metre (77.4-foot) wingspan.)

1995 launch There's a schedule, too - they propose to send Hermes on its first flight in 1995, riding up on what is booked as the final test flight of the bigger-and-better Ariane launcher. If France does gets its act together that quickly, Hermes would be able to go zinging up regularly, looking like a free-fall motorcycle scout, to service the European modules that are to be part of the American space station. And that would give the European space effort a lot of great publicity from working on a facility built mainly with U.S. money.

* * *

Protein extracted from soybeans has been used as the base of a drink that replaced milk in a University of Guelph experiment. Researcher Maggie Laidlaw fed the drink to a group of milk drinkers aged 29 to 67 who started out with one thing in common - the cholesterol level in their blood was high. They wound up with something else in common: After the six-month project, their cholesterol levels were a lot lower.

The test is not considered the last word on the subject, but it's promising, since cholesterol is considered one of the biggest factors in blocking arteries and causing heart attacks.

The theory behind all this is that cholesterol comes from eating fat and when people eat most meats to get protein, they eat fat at the same time. And of course, milk has fat in it, too.

Guelph professor Nina Mercer suggests that it would be best if people got about half of the supply of protein they need from animal sources (like meat and milk) and half from plant sources (like soybeans). Most North Americans choose foods that give them twice as much animal protein as the plant variety.

The soybean protein is what's left after the husk and oil and most of the carbohydrates in the original beans are taken away. Apparently most of the bean flavor is wiped out in the process as well, so when the protein is mixed into a drink, it does not contribute any taste that would put people off. Laidlaw was careful not to say the drink was delicious, saying only that the people "didn't mind" the flavor.

* * *

There was a layer of soot over almost the whole world 65 million years ago, according to new findings by University of Chicago researchers. They figure it had to be from a smoke cloud that covered most of the planet, and they figure further that this could only have come from continent-sized fires that they believe likely could have been started only by something as catastrophic as a big meteor ramming us.

Wendy Wolbach, Roy Lewis and Edward Anders are the researchers and they deduce much more from their findings. The smoke cloud, they conclude, blocked the sun's light and heat from getting to the ground for a long time, which let almost everything on the surface freeze in the dark - especially the dinosaurs.

This basic idea is not that new, but they feel their readings from the soot samples, found deep underground at several spots around the planet, tell them what a smoke cloud could do far more accurately than any other evidence available. And from this, they compute that the smoke cloud we could expect from a nuclear war would in fact produce a world-wide "nuclear winter" as other scientists have predicted, except that it would be far worse than they have predicted up to now.

Moral: Don't use the bombs.

LONDON, ONT. - LONDON, Ont. (CP) - The diarrhea outbreak at the Extendicare nursing home in London has claimed its 17th victim, but no new cases have been reported, the Middlesex-London medical officer of health says.

Dr. Douglas Pudden said that while the outbreak appears to have been contained, as medical authorities reported last Wednesday, two other Extendicare residents remain in hospital in poor condition.

The 17 victims, all women in their 80s and 90s, died after being infected with a type of bacteria known as E. coli that apparently contaminated meat sandwiches served at the nursing home on Sept. 5. The 17th victim died on the weekend.

Seventy-one staff and residents at the nursing home became ill.

No new cases have been reported at the Extendicare home or two other homes under surveillance by the local health unit.

All residents and staff at the Sunhaven nursing home west of London are reported well, Pudden said. One resident had been admitted to hospital after she developed diarrhea, but it is not believed her illness is connected with the Extendicare situation.

LONDON, ONT. - LONDON, Ont. - Relatives of victims of a deadly diarrhea that swept through a nursing home here fear they will have to wait for months to discover what caused the epidemic.

Four weeks have passed since the first case of the bloody diarrhea was discovered at the Extendicare nursing home in London.

Now 17 elderly women are dead.

And authorities have yet to announce how the epidemic began.

Speculation centres on sandwiches prepared at the home, but relatives continue to complain that they have been left in the dark without an explanation.

"I want to know just what my mother died of," said Gary Mann. His 92-year-old mother, May Mann, died Sept. 22 after a 10-day stay in hospital. "If I knew what she actually died of, I think I could sleep.

"I think it's a damn shame. Up until this happened, I can't say a thing against Extendicare; they treated my mother very well.

"But now the bottom's fallen out of everything. We weren't told anything and we still know nothing as far as I'm concerned."

Painful death

Mann's wife, Theresa, said her mother-in-law died a painful death.

"She swelled up until she was unrecognizable," she said. "She just had slits for eyes. It was awful to watch because every day she just got worse.

"Ma was just a little lady, just 107 pounds, and at the end she was just so frightened by what was happening to her."

Some relatives hope a coroner's inquest will provide details on how the epidemic - the worst of its kind in North America - started. But that's little consolation for people who must live with the memory of their relatives' ordeals.

"My mother had a horrible death," said June Clubb. Her mother, 85-year-old Ethel Newton, died Sept. 23, nine days after she was admitted to hospital.

"I just couldn't stand to watch her," Cubb said. "It was like something was just eating her from the inside. It keeps hitting me that my mother was poisoned."

Another victim's relative, Grace Morris, agrees the deaths were painful.

"I never anticipated Elsie would die like this," she said of the Sept. 20 death of her cousin, Elsie Lucas, 85.

The disease was diagnosed by Ontario's Chief Medical officer of Health, Dr. David Korn, and his team of investigators as a rare type of E.coli bacteria known as 0157:H7. That strain of the bacteria is a bowel organism which, when ingested, secretes toxins that destroy cells and cause severe abdominal cramps and bloody diarrhea.

Not sure of source

Korn and his investigative team say they are not sure of the source of the bacteria. They speculate that unrefrigerated ham or turkey sandwiches prepared at the home on the morning of Sept. 5 are at the root of the epidemic. But because all the food has been disposed of, investigators say they cannot be certain of the cause.

Korn has described Sept. 5 as "a difficult day" for the 170-bed nursing home because temporary kitchen facilities, which had been set up in the dining room, were moved back into the permanent kitchen.

The refrigerator was thought to be "full" at the time, Korn said, and the sandwiches were left in the open for several hours. In such circumstances the bacteria can double every 20 minutes, Korn said.

The kitchen was closed Aug. 19 so workers could replace a floor to comply with orders by health inspectors after an annual inspection of the home last December.

The kitchen opened again Sept. 5, a warm day that could have furthered deterioration of contaminated food. Korn speculated that the sandwiches became tainted "by cross-contamination with a raw meat byproduct" or by a food handler working in the kitchen.

Although his team has contacted food suppliers, Korn said he believes the contamination occurred in the kitchen. Under normal circumstances, proper cooking and refrigeration methods routinely kill E.coli bacteria, but improper handling could allow it to survive.

It is not unusual for raw foods "to be contaminated with E.coli," Korn said.

"Any breakdown in food preparation could result in this (diarrhea)."

Korn is to file a full report on the epidemic Oct. 12 with Ontario Health Minister Murray Elston, but it is not known whether the report's contents will be made public.

Meanwhile, London police are collecting evidence and statements for an inquest ordered Sept. 25 by Regional Coroner Douglas MacKinlay. The date of the inquest has not been announced, but it is unlikely to begin until late December or early January.

This prolongs the wait for those who demand an explanation of the events related to the deaths.

Some are upset that they didn't find out more at an "information session" held for 150 relatives at the Extendicare home.

"We were disappointed by that meeting," said Bertha Stratton, of Vista, California, who travelled to London for the funeral of her sister, Lillian Rumball.

"My husband had a list of questions for the head cook, but we were told to keep them for the inquest. But we can't stay here that long."

The inquest could come as much as four months after the first case of the illness was contracted by a staff member Sept. 8 - three days after the sandwiches in question were eaten.

By Sept. 10, the home had 16 cases, and five of those affected had been sent to hospital. On the same day, a local health inspector peformed a routine inspection of the home but indicated little concern over the cases of diarrhea.

Culprit identified

On Sept. 11, public health authorities were called in. By that time, 25 cases of the illness had been diagnosed and eight Extendicare residents were in hospital.

By Sept. 13, two residents had died, and on Sept. 20, microbiologists identified the culprit as E.coli 0157:H7.

But it wasn't until Sept. 24 that the health minister ordered the special team of provincial and federal medical investigators to probe the outbreak. Strict control measures were imposed.

The next day an inquest was ordered.

When Korn declared the crisis officially over last Wednesday - one week after the last case at the nursing home had been reported - 16 residents, all elderly women between the ages of 81 and 99, had died.

A total of 71 had been affected by the outbreak - 53 residents and 18 staff.

Two Extendicare residents remain in hospital in poor condition.

The 17th victim died this past weekend.

The Canadian Egg Marketing Agency says eggs lend themselves well to microwave cooking and it has created a few recipes to help children cope in the kitchen. Its 28-page booklet MicroEgg Meets The Munch Bunch has easy-to-follow recipes with imperial and metric measures. Step-by-step instructions will help beginner cooks get good results when they cook eggs in a microwave oven. Here is a sample recipe. If you want more, free copies of the booklet can be ordered from The Canadian Egg Marketing Agency, P.O. Box 86, Unionville, Ont. L3R 2L8. Ham N' Egg Basket 1 slice whole wheat bread, crusts removed Butter 1 slice of ham or bologna 1 egg 2 (25mL) tbsp shredded cheese Butter bread. Place bread, buttered side down, in a small custard cup and press gently to form a shell. Line bread with a slice of ham about 4 inches in diameter. Microwave on HIGH (100 per cent power) for 30 seconds. Break egg into meat shell and gently pierce yolk and white with a toothpick. Sprinkle with cheese. Cover loosely with plastic wrap. Microwave on MEDIUM-HIGH (70 per cent power) for 1 minute and 15 seconds or until egg is almost set. Remove from oven with oven mitts. Let stand, still covered, 1 minute. Serve with a salad or vegetables sticks, milk or juice and an apple for dessert. Makes 1 serving.

TAOS, MO. - Here, inside Doug's Service Station and Bar, some of the local good ol' boys are propped on their bar stools, elbows on the countertop, swiggin' 50 draft and talkin' baseball.

They're clad in denim and overalls, wearing workshirts with their names sewn over the breast pocket, sweat-soiled caps pushed back from their foreheads.

There's a jukebox in one corner, a pool table in another, a couple of pinball machines in the back. But right now all attention is focused on the TV set over the bar, and the game between the St. Louis Cardinals and the Montreal Expos.

Taos, nestled in the Ozarks about a two-hour over-the-speed-limit drive down the blacktop from St. Louis, is Cards' country. It's been that way as long as anybody can remember. But now, well, now local baseball loyalty is divided. Because Taos, a mere slip of a town with about 700 inhabitants, a town that boasts just one bar, one hamburger joint, one church and one general store, is also the home of Toronto Blue Jays ace reliever Tom Henke.

12.4"We're real proud'

"We're all real proud of that boy," says Jerry Lootens, as he licks the beer foam from his lips. "He's the town hero now, he's put this place on the map. But he was always a good boy, and a gentleman."

They love Henke down here, love him in a pure and proprietary sort of way. He is, after all, one of them. Most of these townfolks knew Henke when he was a tall and lanky youngster, part of that boisterous but always well-mannered Henke clan that still lives in the century-old loghouse about a mile up the road. The man who's now a major league Tommy-come-lately star, the fellow who's even been annointed with that most coveted insignia of celebrity - a nickname of his very own, The Terminator - used to pack them in at the sandlot ballpark when he was pitching for Blair Oaks Cole R2 High School.

"I think he was born with a baseball in his hand," says Lootens. "And boy! Could he throw hard!"

Missourians, who come from a state where the motto is "Show Me!", are not easily impressed. But 27-year-old Henke, besides being one of their own, has shown 'em good. And it's not always been a smooth ride, like last year when he bounced back and forth between the Texas Rangers and their minor league club, "up and down like a pumphandle" by his own description.

Carol Pleus, chain-smoking proprietor of this bar and wife of one of Henke's early days coaches, explains that Henke is still just one of the boys around these parts. "We're all very proud of him," she says, as she rings up a customer's six-pack and chewing tobacco purchase.

"And all this success hasn't turned his head at all. He's still the same old Tom. When he comes back home, he still likes to come in here and play some cards with the boys or shoot some pool. He's, I don't know, humble I guess you'd say. He's from the old school, you know? Still polite to the ladies and all."

Steve Borgmeyer, a 30-year-old truckdriver, used to rent his basement apartment to Henke in the off-season. "I've known his family for as long as I can remember," he says, polishing off his can of beer in two long gulps.

One of the problems about living in Taos, though, is that Henke's friends rarely get to see their boy play. While a couple of local residents have satellite dishes which bring in Blue Jay games, everyone else has to settle for those occasions when Toronto games are broadcast on the national television network.

12.0News blackout

And the local gang can only recall one of those games when Henke actually got a chance to take the mound.

The people of Taos are also bitterly angry that their hometown hero gets so little coverage in the only area newspaper, published in Jefferson City, the Missouri capital 16 kilometres (10 miles) away. "He's had better write-ups in Kansas City then he's had around here," says Loomis, with a puzzled shake of his heaad. "They just don't care about the local boys. All they really seem interested in is football."

And, to add insult to injury, when they do mention Henke, they refer to him as a Jeff City boy! "Disgusting."

Taos' answer to the Henke news blackout is a special bulletin board at Eiken's Food Store and Hardware, directly across the street from the bar, a sort of backwoods version of Peking's Democracy Wall.

The board is plastered with Toronto newspaper clippings, some sent by Henke himself, others donated by out-of-town friends. Store owner Ed Eiken, whose son subscribes to The Sporting News, keeps a running tally of Henke's (and the Jays') performances. A large sign reads "Tom's Record", and lists his games played, wins and losses.

"It's just something I decided to do on my own," says Eiken. "I thought the people here would like to know how Tom's doing." And interested they are, many dropping by daily to scan the stories and game results.

The people come to Eiken's board not just because they're proud, but because they care. "I've loved Tom since he was 10 years old," says an unabashed Bob Cassmeyer, a 56-year-old dairy farmer. "He's so easy-going, he takes life as it comes. I coached him when he was just a boy. He was big and strong but I never thought this would happen."

Although Henke was actually born in Kansas City where his father was working at the time, Taos is where his family has lived for generations, part of the wave of Roman Catholic immigrants from Germany who settled in this area in the late 1800s. Tom Henke, along with his eight brothers and sisters, grew up in the cramped logcabin that has been reinforced over the years with stone and mortar. The Henke children were country kids, athletic and adventurous and big - the boys strapping male specimens (even at 6 feet 5 inches, Tom is not the tallest) the girls sturdy and statuesque.

12.0"Just like Popeye'

Mary Jane Henke, tall and slim at 57, raised her children on Missourian common sense and one-pot dinners, Tom's favorite being a spinach-and-noodle concoction. "He always loved his spinach," recalls his mother, laughing. "Just like Popeye." Organist for the church choir these past 45 years, she also instilled in all her offspring a deep love of music. "Tom sure loved to sing," she says.

Meanwhile, her sports-loving husband Fred taught the kids how to play ball in the yard out back. Tom Henke may have been born with an athletic gift but it was his dad who taught him pitching control during those warm summer evenings. "I guess I did spend more time with him than the others," says Fred Henke, an aw-shucks kind of guy, bespectacled and balding. "I used to catch him a lot, spotting the ball with the glove, telling him just where to throw it."

According to those who were there, the future Blue Jay had an ideal rustic childhood, hunting for deer, squirrel (he's the only one who likes squirrel meat," says one sister) and wild turkey in the nearby woods, or fishing for catfish and carp on Twehouse Lake down the hill, rarely turning his mind to other adolescent pursuits - like dating the local girls.

The livin' is still not all that easy in the Henke home and Tom occasionally sends money to his family. Fred Henke, laid off all summer from his job as a supervisor at a toolmaking company, has just started a new job as a guard at a correctional institute.

Mary Jane works part of the week at a daycare centre and the rest at an egg ranch, washing eggs and loading them onto a crating machine.

Though Tom is making good money, he hasn't splurged on either himself or his family. There is talk, however, of him buying his folks a satellite dish and a video recorder so they can watch all his games and tape them for his later viewing. Not that his parents have ever missed any of the games. A family friend who does have a satellite dish always tunes into the Jays and whenever Henke is called in to pitch, a telephone call is immediately put through to the Henke household.

12.0Staunchly Catholic

Mary Jane Henke is not too interested in ostentatious gifts from her son (though she would love to come to Toronto if the Jays get into the World Series). She knows her son is guarding his money so that he and wife Kathy - along with son Ryan, 5, and daughter Kimberley, almost 2, can buy a house of their own in or near Taos.

Mary Jane is much more attached to the sentimental gestures. One of her dearest possessions, which she eagerly whips out of her billfold, is a Henke baseball card that her son has signed: "To the greatest mom in the world."

The entire Henke clan is also staunchly Catholic. (Fred Henke is a lay minister.) Though there are a few photographs of Tom placed around the house, the main decorating motif (apart from the dozens of salt and pepper shaker sets that Mary Jane collects) is a religious one, with statues of saints, Biblical pictures and crucifixes hung on the walls.

Tom Henke, who regularly attends mass at Toronto's St. Michael's Cathedral as well as dropping in on services when the Jays are on the road, served as an altar boy for many years at Taos' St. Francis Xavier Catholic Church. "He's very religious," says Mary Jane. "He always liked to pray. And I always thought he was going to become a priest." A priest? The Terminator?

Maybe it's too early to tell - Henke has only been wowing them in a Jay uniform since late July - but all the Henkes insist that their Tom "is not going to get a big head" because of his success. He still looks forward to hunting and fishing around Taos, often with his wife tramping alongside. And he still bunks in at his parents' house most of the time that he's in town.

Tom's wife Kathy, who first laid eyes on Tom 6 1/2 years ago when she was a cashier at a McDonald's restaurant not far from Taos, dated Henke at college when they were both students interested in sports. She says it took a long time for Henke to screw up the courage to ask her out. "I remember going home and telling my mom that I'd met this guy and he was so cute, tall and athletic. I was just wishing so hard that he'd ask me out out."

Kathy, who describes her husband as "a country boy at heart", said Tom would ask her during the lean years whether she wanted him to quit baseball, move home to Taos and get a real job. "He always said his family came first. He'd do what I wanted. But I didn't want him to quit. I always knew he was good and would make it some day."

This is the second of six excerpts from Cynthia Wine's new book, Across The Table - An Indulgent Look At Food In Canada (Prentice-Hall, $29.95). The book examines the country as six culinary regions - the Atlantic Provinces, Quebec, Ontario, the Prairies, British Columbia and the North. Today, the Atlantic Provinces. By Cynthia Wine Special to The Star

The real culinary wealth of Atlantic Canada exists on platters heaped in home kitchens and served at private dining tables. It exists at tiny taverns, church bake sales and roadside eateries that are few and far between and known best by local residents. Before I visited Atlantic Canada, I met its food in the reminiscences of people who had grown up there. They had left for better jobs and worse dinners in other parts of their country and now seemed condemned to spend their leisure time waxing rhapsodic about the scrunchions and grape-nuts ice cream they left behind. Seafood Chowder

A traditional Atlantic chowder is made with fish or shellfish, canned milk, potatoes, onions and is served with a dollop of butter. This version, which comes from a Nova Scotia fisherman and uses sour cream, fresh cream and thyme, is quite different and very good. When reheating leftover chowder, it may be necessary to add a little more milk or cream because the fish and potatoes will have absorbed some of the liquid. 1 medium onion, minced 1 tbsp butter 1 1/2 tsp thyme 1 1/4 tsp celery salt 2 cups whipping cream 8 oz haddock or halibut fillets 6 oz scallops, chopped 3 oz lobster meat, cooked and chopped

3/4 cup sour cream 3 medium potatoes, peeled, cooked and diced 1 1/4 cups milk 1 tsp salt

1/2 tsp freshly ground pepper

Paprika for garnish

Cook the onion in the butter until transparent. Add the thyme and celery salt. Remove from heat.

In a saucepan, pour the whipping cream over the fish fillets. Cover, bring to a boil and simmer slowly for 10 minutes, or until the fish flakes easily. Remove the fish with a slotted spoon, then break into small pieces and remove any bones.

Add the onion mixture and the scallops to the poaching liquid. Bring barely to a boil, then simmer for about one minute, or until the scallops are opaque. If the chowder is not to be eaten immediately, refrigerate everything at this stage.

Just before serving, add the fish, lobster, sour cream, potatoes and milk. Heat through, but do not allow to boil. Season with salt and pepper. Ladle into soup bowls. Sprinkle with paprika. Serve immediately. Serves four to six. Lobster With Tomatoes The freshest of lobster makes this dish special. Cooking with lobster that has not been pre-cooked makes an astounding difference. Also, the shells lend flavor. If you buy the live lobsters in a city market, don't try to preserve them in the bathtub - they need seawater, not fluoride. They should survive overnight in a cool place, but once they have been killed, they must be used immediately. 1 2-lb (1-kg) lobster, freshly killed but not cooked 1 large onion, finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 tbsp olive oil

1/4 cup brandy 2 tomatoes, peeled and quartered 1 tsp tomato paste 1 tsp granulated sugar

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp freshly ground pepper

Kill the lobster by inserting a knife at the base of the head. The butcher may do this for you if you prefer, but the lobster must be used immediately.

Cook the onion and garlic in the olive oil until soft.

With a sharp knife or cleaver, chop the lobster in the shell crosswise in 1-inch (2.5-centimetre) chunks along the length of the tail and body. Remove the green sac at the base of the brain and discard. Reserve the red coral (roe) if there is any and the greenish tomalley (liver).

Cook the lobster pieces with the onion and garlic until the lobster shell turns red. It is important that the shell be a definite red, or the meat will be hard to remove. Still, be careful not to overcook. Once the shell is red, reduce the heat immediately.

When the heat has been reduced, pour in the brandy. Let it heat for a moment, then ignite it with a match. The flame will go out as soon as the alcohol has been burned off.

Remove the lobster from the pan. Remove the meat from the shell and reserve both.

Return the shell to the pan. Add the tomatoes, tomato paste, sugar, salt and pepper. Boil the mixture gently until it becomes quite thick. Remove all the shell pieces from the pan and discard. Return the meat, including the coral and tomalley, to the pan and simmer in the sauce for 5 minutes. Serve immediately with buttered rice. Serves two.

Apple Cake With Cider Glaze The Annapolis Valley in Nova Scotia is well known for its apples, and in the fall you can find varieties that are no longer commercially available. Nova Scotia apple cider is very good, too, especially if you can find your way past the commercial bottled stuff and into the barns where it is fermented slow and strong. 1 1/2 cups vegetable oil 2 cups granulated sugar 3 eggs 2 tsp vanilla 3 cups all-purpose flour 1 tsp baking soda 2 tsp cinnamon 1 tsp freshly grated nutmeg

1/2 tsp salt 3 cups unpeeled and diced tart apples (such as Cortland or Northern Spy) 1 cup walnut pieces Glaze:

1/4 cup butter

1/4 cup brown sugar

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup apple cider

Preheat oven to 325 F. Combine the oil and sugar. Beat in the eggs, one at a time. Stir in the vanilla. Sift together the flour, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt. Add to the oil mixture and combine thoroughly. Add the diced apples and walnuts and mix well.

Pour the batter into a buttered and floured Bundt pan. Bake for 1 1/4 hours or until a skewer inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean. Remove the cake from the oven and let it sit for 10 minutes. Invert on to a platter.

To prepare the glaze, combine the butter, sugars and cider in a saucepan. Boil for 1 or 2 minutes. Remove from heat and brush over warm cake. Serves 10 to 12. Next week: The Prairies.

The preserving season officially ends when all those green tomatoes from the garden have been bottled. The reader who sent this recipe for green tomato pickles for Mrs. S. Timmins writes that it's a 19th-century recipe created by nuns at a Quebec convent, and is very good with beef. Green Tomato Pickles 30 green tomatoes 6 large onions

1/2 cup pickling salt 16 apples 4 cups brown sugar

1/4 cup mixed pickling spices

White or cider vinegar Slice and salt tomatoes and onions. Let stand overnight. Drain. Place in a preserving kettle; add peeled and sliced apples, sugar (to taste) and spices tied in a cloth bag. Add vinegar to cover up to three-quarters of the ingredients. Simmer 1 1/2 hours. Pour into hot sterilized jars; seal. Kay Bushell's Tomato Soy Kay Bushell of Belleville responded to Mrs. Timmins' request with a recipe that she says is much nicer than chili sauce. If you have some end-of-season tomatoes around, give it a try. 11 quarts ripe tomatoes 8 onions

3/4 cup coarse salt 3 cups cider vinegar

1/4 to 1/2 tsp cayenne pepper 3 to 4 tbsp mixed pickling spices

2 lbs brown sugar Peel and slice tomatoes; finely chop onions. Sprinkle with salt and let stand overnight. Drain well next day and combine in a preserving kettle or large saucepan with vinegar, cayenne pepper and pickling spices tied in a cloth bag. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer 2 hours or until thick. Stir often. Remove from heat, stir in sugar and mix well. Ladle into hot sterilized jars. Seal.

Karen Lechner's Raisin Squares Karen Lechner of Scarborough writes that a recent request for raisin square recipes jogged her memory. She went through her mother's handwritten recipe collection and came up with this one. The recipe came from the Maritimes and is quite old - the baking directions were written for a wood stove. She suggests baking the squares in a 400 degree F gas or electric oven for about 40 minutes. 1 lb raisins 1 cup water

3/4 cup sugar 1 cup shortening 1 cup granulated sugar 2 eggs

1/2 tsp vanilla or 1/2 tsp grated nutmeg 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour 1 tsp baking soda 2 tsp cream of tartar

1 tsp salt Preheat oven to 375 to 400 degrees F. Chop raisins. Mix with water and sugar. Simmer over low heat until thick, set aside. Mix shortening, sugar, eggs and flavoring; beat thoroughly. Sift dry ingredients together. Combine with egg mixture to form a dough; divide in half. Roll half the dough to fit a 10-inch by 15-inch pan. Spread raisin filling over dough. Roll second half of dough to the same measurement; cover filling. Bake about 35 to 40 minutes or until dough is golden brown. Sweet And Sour Leftover Pork A few weeks ago we mentioned that Pat Hartt was interested in recipes for Sweet and Sour Pork. This tasty solution for leftover pork comes from M.J. Woods of Port Sydney. 2 or 3 lb leftover pork roast Salt and freshly ground black pepper

3/4 cup tomato ketchup

1/2 cup cider vinegar 1 tbsp soy sauce

1/4 to 1/2 cup brown sugar Preheat oven to 325 degrees F. Cut meat into serving-size pieces and arrange in a casserole. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Combine ketchup, vinegar and soy sauce. Pour over meat. Sprinkle with sugar. Bake until heated through, about 30 minutes. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Alice Ridgway of Toronto is looking for a recipe for Old-Fashioned Lemon Puff Cookies made with pure lemon oil and hopes that someone reading this column has one to share.

If you have recipes for Hot Milk Sponge Cake and Mocha Cake, Mrs. E. Bedard would appreciate copies.

These recipes are not tested in The Star kitchen. Send requests and recipes to Recipe Exchange, Star Test Kitchen, Toronto Star, One Yonge St.,

I thought I'd try a little something different for Thanksgiving this year. I thought I'd write a poem to wax eloquent about the bounties of the occasion. An hour later, I had the first two lines: Thank you for the champagne punch,

I'm sorry I spilled it on your lunch.

Well, I should have known that wasn't going to work. Name one poet who has written something meaningful about a turkey.

So I thought I'd write something straight about the turkey itself. I was thinking along the lines of what a proud bird it was, how the Indians offered it to the white man in the wilderness one day and it's been with us ever since as a symbol of sharing, friendship, warmth and love. Then I remembered the Indians offered us tobacco for the same reasons. Kinda took the steam out of my idea.

Then I thought, of course, this is the Food section. So I did what any smart person would do to find great new cooking ideas and went directly to the classic French texts, including Escoffier and Larousse. Stuff the turkey with a duck, stuff the duck with a pigeon, then stuff the pigeon with an ortolan. Roast. It would be a turkey dinner to remember. Except you can't buy ortolans in Canada and, even if you could, the only person giving thanks would be the loans officer at the bank.

I had a feeling, however, that I was on the right track. What we need is a new variation on the old Thanksgiving theme. Find a new way of stuffing and roasting the turkey. Find some interesting vegetable ideas to go along with it, and a dessert to top the whole meal off. A complete Thanksgiving dinner. Nothing difficult, perhaps a touch special. And that way you could make a great Thanksgiving dinner and still have enough time to remember what it is that you're giving thanks for in the first place. So that's what you're getting today. To make your Thanksgiving dinner special, try these old favorite recipes with a new twist. Madame Benoit's Champagne Roasted Turkey The champagne called for in this family favorite can be replaced by a good white muscadet wine or a dry sparkling ros, but Madame Benoit cautions that the finesse given by the champagne would be missing. Any one of the wines, plus the flaming brandy finish, could do a lot for that special on frozen utility turkey from the supermarket. The recipe is from Madame Benoit Cooks At Home (McGraw-Hill Ryerson, out of print). Preparation time: 55 minutes Cooking time: 3 1/2 to 4 hours 1 10 lb (4.5kg) turkey Salt and pepper 1 large onion cut in half 1 tsp dried tarragon leaves 1 large bunch fresh parsley

1/2 cup butter 3 tbsp all-purpose flour

1/2 cup dry champagne 1 tbsp salad oil or melted butter Gravy: cup dry Madeira wine 3 tbsp butter 2 tbsp all-purpose flour 1 1/2 cups dry champagne

1/4 cup hot brandy

Wash, dry and blot any excess water in turkey cavity with absorbent paper towel. Generously sprinkle cavity with salt and pepper. Place onion, tarragon and parsley in cavity. Close opening. Fasten skin of neck down over the back and tie legs and wings with kitchen cord.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Cream together 1/2 cup butter and 3 tablespoons flour. Spread all over the top of turkey. Set turkey on one side, on the rack of a roasting pan. Do not cover. Roast 20 minutes, then reduce heat to 375 degrees F and continue to roast, allowing 20 minutes cooking time to the pound.

When the heat is lowered, dip a large single layer of cheesecloth in 1/2 cup champagne blended with 1 tablespoon of salad oil or melted butter. Turn turkey on its back and cover top or breast with cheesecloth. Baste once or twice as needed during cooking with additional champagne. When cooked, place on a platter; let rest at least 20 minutes. (This increases the smooth texture of the white meat and

makes the carving of thin slices much easier.) Meanwhile, make the gravy: Skim as much fat as possible from the liquid remaining in the roaster. Pour liquid into a 2-cup measure. There should be 2 cups but, if not, add extra champagne to make up the quantity. Return to roaster. Pour Madeira into the roaster. Scrape brown bits from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Make a ball of the 3 tablespoons of butter and 2 tablespoons of flour. Add 1 1/2 cups champagne to roasting pan, bring to a boil while stirring and scraping. Gradually add butter and flour mixture, stirring with a whisk, until it has a creamy texture. Taste for seasoning. Strain and serve in a gravy boat with the turkey. To serve, pour hot brandy over the uncarved turkey and flame. Makes 9 servings. Oyster Stuffing For Turkey A few oysters tossed into plain bread stuffing make it irresistible. Preparation time: 1 hour 1 1/2 cups finely chopped onion

1/2 cup butter 1 cup finely chopped celery

1/4 cup chopped parsley 6 cups fresh bread crumbs, lightly toasted 2 cups shucked oysters 1 tsp dried thyme leaves

Salt and pepper Cook onion in butter until tender but not brown. Add celery and parsley; cook a few minutes longer. Celery should still be crisp. Let cool, then transfer to a bowl. Combine with bread crumbs, oysters and thyme. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon into the body and neck cavity of a turkey. Makes 10 cups of stuffing. Grand Marnier Apricot Stuffing For Turkey Here's how dried apricots, almonds and Grand Marnier can add a touch of elegance to ready-made stuffing mixes. Preparation time: 45 minutes 1 cup diced dried apricots 1 1/2 cups Grand Marnier Turkey liver and heart 1 cup unsalted butter 2 cups coarsley chopped celery 1 large yellow onion, chopped 1 lb (500g) bulk pork sausage 1 lb stuffing mix 1 cup slivered almonds 2 cups chicken stock

1/2 tsp dried thyme leaves

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Place apricots and 1 cup Grand Marnier in a small saucepan. (If you don't want to use liqueur, replace it with orange juice.) Heat to boiling. Remove from heat and set aside. Simmer turkey liver and heart in water to cover in a small saucepan for 5 minutes; set aside to cool. Melt 1/2 cup butter in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add celery and onion; cook 10 minutes. Transfer to a mixing bowl. Cook sausage in same pan, crumbling with a fork, until no longer pink. Remove from heat and add to celery mixture. Add stuffing mix, apricots with liquid and almonds. Finely dice turkey liver and heart; add to stuffing mix. Stir to combine. Heat remaining 1/2 cup butter and the stock in a saucepan just until butter melts. Pour over stuffing mixture. Add remaining 1/2 cup Grand Marnier. Stir well to moisten stuffing. Add thyme and season to taste with salt and pepper. Makes 12 cups. Harvest Pumpkin Soup It wouldn't be Thanksgiving dinner without something made with pumpkin. This year, instead of a pumpkin dessert, try this recipe. Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 25 to 30 minutes 3 cups cooked mashed pumpkin 1 large onion, finely chopped 3 tbsp butter Salt and freshly ground pepper

6/8 tsp grated nutmeg or mace

6/8 tsp turmeric 6 cups chicken stock or broth 1 cup whipping cream

Chopped parsley or cilantro Cook onion in butter until tender and transparent but not browned. Place onion and pumpkin pure in a soup kettle or large saucepan. Add seasonings and chicken stock, stirring until the mixture is smooth. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer 15 minutes. Add cream and stir to blend. Taste to correct seasonings. Simmer another 5 minutes or until piping hot. Sprinkle with chopped parsley or cilantro. Serve in heated bowls. Makes 10 1-cup servings. Thanksgiving Potatoes Mashed potatoes can end up being almost as popular as the turkey at your Thanksgiving feast when you blend them with butter, cream cheese and sour cream. This smooth, rich recipe comes from The Silver Palate Good Times Cookbook (Saunders, $14.95). Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 20 to 25 minutes 9 large baking potatoes, peeled and diced

1/2 cup unsalted butter, room temperature 12 oz cream cheese, room temperature

3/4 cup dairy sour cream

1/2 tsp grated nutmeg

Salt and freshly ground pepper Place diced potatoes in a large saucepan and add water to cover. Heat to boiling. Reduce heat and simmer until very tender, about 15 to 20 minutes. Drain. Place potatoes in a mixing bowl. Cut butter and cream cheese into small pieces and add to potatoes. Beat with an electric mixer until light and fluffy. Beat in sour cream. Season with nutmeg. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately or reheat in a buttered casserole at 300 degrees F for 20 minutes, if you want to prepare them in advance. Makes 9 servings. Brussels Sprouts With Maple And Walnut Vinaigrette Even something as plain as Brussels sprouts can be an attention getter at dinner. Walnuts, and a maple syrup vinaigrette to make them glisten are the secret. Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 15 to 20 minutes 4 to 6 cups Brussels sprouts 2 tbsp sherry vinegar 2 tbsp maple syrup

1/2 tbsp Dijon-style mustard

1/4 cup walnut oil Pinch freshly grated nutmeg Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts Cut an x in the bottom of each sprout. Steam until tender but firm. Meanwhile whisk vinegar, maple syrup and mustard together. Gradually whisk in oil. Season with nutmeg. Add salt and pepper to taste. Toss hot Brussel sprouts with walnuts and vinaigrette. Serve immediately. Makes 8 servings. Apple Mousse With Raspberry Sauce Something made with apples is a perfect ending to dinner on Thanksgiving Day. In this dessert, you'll find the balance of fruits to cream sweetened with Grand Marnier very pleasing. It's lovely as is or served with a very small portion of raspberry sauce. The recipe for the mousse is from The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook (Fitzhenry & Whiteside, $21.95). Preparation time: 40 minutes Chilling time: 2 1/2 to 4 hours 8 apples, peeled and cored 1 cup granulated sugar 1 cup water Zest and juice of 1 lemon 3 tbsp gelatin cup cold water 1 1/2 cups whipped cream 3 tbsp Grand Marnier liqueur Raspberry Sauce: (optional) 1 300g package frozen raspberries, thawed

Granulated sugar

Cut apples into eighths, put in a saucepan over medium heat with 1 cup sugar, 1 cup water and lemon zest. Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer until mixture is quite thick. Before removing from heat, add gelatin that has been softened in cup water. Stir until dissolved and add the lemon juice. Strain and beat with an electric beater or egg whip until apple sauce is very frothy. Refrigerate until thick, about 30 to 60 minutes.

Fold in 1 1/2 cups of unsweetened whipped cream flavored with Grand Marnier liqueur. Spoon into a large glass bowl or individual dessert dishes. Chill 2 to 3 hours or until firm. Serve with raspberry sauce. To make sauce, pure berries and juice in a food processor or blender. Strain to remove seeds and sweeten to taste. Makes 12 servings. Maple Glazed Carrots Carrots are often overlooked at Thanksgiving and it's too bad, because they lend lovely color to a meal and most people like them. This recipe and the one that follows are from Rose Murray's Vegetable Cookbook (Lorimer, $12.95). Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 12 to 15 minutes 1 1/2 lbs (750g) whole baby carrots, or large carrots cut into matchstick pieces 3 tbsp butter

1/4 cup reserved cooking liquid

1/2 cup maple syrup

1/2 tsp salt

2 tbsp finely chopped parsley or mint Cook carrots in boiling, salted water until almost tender, about 5 minutes. Drain and reserve 1/4 cup cooking liquid. Melt butter and roll carrots in it. Add reserved liquid, maple syrup and salt. Cook, uncovered, until liquid is thickened and carrots are tender, about 10 minutes if whole, or less if cut. Sprinkle with parsley or mint; serve. Makes 6 servings. Honey Glazed Onions Onions are fit for the feast when they're baked in butter and honey. Preparation time: 25 minutes Cooking time: 45 minutes 20 firm onions

1/4 cup butter 2 tbsp honey

Salt

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Blanch onions in boiling water for 1 minute. Drain and cool under cold running water. Peel and cut an x in the bottom of each onion. Place in a greased, shallow baking dish just big enough to accommodate them in a single layer. In a small saucepan, melt butter over moderate heat. Add honey and salt to taste. Stir until honey has melted. Pour over onions; stir to coat. Bake until tender and brown, about 45 minutes. Baste occasionally. Makes 4 servings. These recipes have been adapted and tested by Star home economist Mary McGrath.

We immediately ordered a litre of the house red wine, Castelli Romani ($12), to drown the sounds of Csarda's resident musical trio playing its favorite rendition of an old Hungarian hit. Not ideal dinner music, but once we were tucked away in the back corner with a glass in hand, we were all right. Our waitress said the singers were real Hungarian gypsies. We still weren't impressed.

But Csarda has been at its Bay St. location (just south of Charles St.) for 20 years, says chef and owner Tibor Ferentzy, because the food is better than you can get in Budapest. Ferentzy says he knows because he goes back to Hungary every year.

We started our meal with an order of cabbage rolls ($3.25) and one plate of hearts of celery and olives ($1.50). The latter was just that, a plate of small celery stalks and regular green olives. Uninteresting. The cabbage roll was generously filled with delicious spiced meat.

We also ordered ujhazi ($3), which is a flavorful, not-too-greasy chicken soup with dumplings and chunks of chicken. Very good and filling.

For an entree, I ordered chicken paprikash ($8.75) and my friend, wiener schnitzel ($8.95). The veal was thin and tender in a lightly spiced breading. My friend gave it top honors.

My chicken paprikash had lots of chicken and tiny herbed dumplings (which were delicious), in a thick, rich sauce. At a restaurant like this one, you can be sure the dishes from the homeland are reliably good and served with every consideration for the hearty appetite.

Take for example the Transylvanian wooden platter for two, three or four, for $13.75 per person. You get filet mignon, veal and pork, Hungarian sausages, bacon, cabbage rolls, vegetables, fried potatoes and some tangy Hungarian salads.

Feeling full but vigilant, we forged ahead with two orders of palacsinta ($2.50); two delicious thin crepes filled with an apricot-nut mixture, served flaming in brandy. The coffee was good, too. Our bill, including tax and tip, was $55. - By Trish Irvin

The Star's daily restaurant review

TABLE FOR TWO Csarda Hungarian Inn 1115 Bay St. 923-7021 Hungarian and continental; entrees $8.75 to $10.75; seats 100; lunch Monday to Friday from noon to 2.30 p.m., dinner Sunday, Monday and Tuesday, 5 p.m. to 11 p.m., Wednesday to Saturday until midnight; all major credit cards; fully licensed; no-smoking section; no access for handicapped.

TORONTO - I was, and continue to be outraged, with an advertisement carried in your paper on Sept. 28. The ad featured a woman, clad in a red bathing suit, floating on a mat in water with the words "Canadian Bakin" at the top.

I realize that, as winter approaches, the thoughts of many turn to an escape in the sunny south, and I have no quarrel with that. However, what is offensive about this particular ad summoning us to the southern sun is the phonetic and visual association of the woman with what can only be named as a purchasable commodity - bluntly put - as meat.

Surely it is not too much to expect Canadian publications such as The Star to refrain from so demeaning women - indeed Canadians in general. SHEILA KAPPLER Toronto

"Potatoes again, mom?"

That may sound familiar, because most of us give little thought to serving potatoes - the second-class citizens of the vegetable family that frequently take a subordinate role to meat, fish or poultry in a main course.

What can be done to make potatoes special? Cottage fries, for example, are thin, crispy potato discs fried with their skins on, and definitely more than an accompaniment.

Line a basket with a bandana, add the warm fries and use them as cocktail fare. Pile them up on a plate of grilled fish, chicken or turkey. Or pass them around a party accompanied by a spicy chili salsa dip.

The thin (2 mm) slicing disc drastically reduces preparation time and produces perfectly even slices that would take far longer to produce by hand.

Since potatoes need not be peeled, it is only necessary to remove a small piece from each end (to be assured of even processing) and pass them through the disc with a moderate push. California Hash Browns, which are prepared very quickly with the food processor shredding disc, are like a luscious potato sandwich with a sour cream filling. They certainly dress up a casual dinner of burgers or steak and are equally good with chicken. Or use them as positively celestial breakfast fare with a topping of poached eggs, a big spoonful of guacamole and a few sprigs of fresh coriander. Cottage Fries Makes 4 to 6 servings Processing time: About 1 minute Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 10 minutes 1 1/2 pounds Idaho potatoes, scrubbed clean 2 quarts vegetable oil

Salt to taste

Insert thin (2 mm) slicing disc in food processor container. Cut potatoes as necessary to fit food chute and insert upright. Slice with a moderate push. Pat potatoes dry with cloth towels.

Heat oil in a 6-quart soup kettle or skillet deep enough to hold 2 inches of oil. Heat to 375 degrees F on a deep-fry thermometer. Fry potatoes a handful at a time for 1 minute, or until golden brown. Drain on paper towels for 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to cake rack and put in hot oven to keep hot and crisp until ready to serve. Lightly salt before serving. California Hash Browns Makes 2 to 4 servings Processing time: About 1 minute Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: less than 30 minutes 1 1/2 pounds Idaho potatoes, peeled 4 tbsp vegetable oil Salt to taste

cup sour cream

Insert medium shredding disc in food processor container. Cut potatoes as necessary to fit sideways in food chute. Shred with a moderate push. Transfer to a bowl of cold water and let stand 10 minutes. Drain well and pat dry in cloth towels.

Heat half the oil in a 9-inch skillet or on griddle. Saut on medium heat until golden brown, usually 6 to 7 minutes. Loosen from skillet and slide on to a dinner plate. Return to skillet, raw side down, and saut on medium-low heat until golden, usually 6 to 8 minutes. To serve, sprinkle potatoes lightly with salt. Cut in half. Put one half on a heated serving dish. Spread with sour cream and top with remaining hash browns. Serve immediately. * Reminder: The cookie exchange deadline is Oct. 15. Send your cookie recipes to Jane Freiman, Box 286, Gracie Station, New York, N.Y., U.S.A., 10028. Put your name, address, city, province and telephone number on the recipe and indicate its origin. Copyright by Jane Salzfass Freiman. All rights reserved.

WEST BERLIN - WEST BERLIN (Reuter) - The roast lamb was tender and the claret just a little dry as the British Berlin military train cut across Communist East Germany, its doors chained from the inside and guards armed to stop anyone from boarding.

As the six carriages stopped at the border, Soviet and British officers exchanged salutes - as they did on the first run in 1945. Travel orders were signed "in connection with the occupation of Berlin."

This ritual, enacted daily in the heart of Europe, is a stark reminder that former allies of World War II retain occupation rights long after Nazi Germany's defeat.

The train, linking a small British Berlin garrison with West Germany, blends military qualities of security with gourmet wining and dining.

Uniformed guards still carry live ammunition, a reminder of the more hazardous days of Germany's post-1945 occupation. But fear of attack has receded with the passage of years.

"The food is one of the most important duties here on the train," said Staff Sgt. Peter Bates. "If the china's chipped or the meat overdone, I get it in the neck."

The train runs from Charlottenburg station in West Berlin to the West German city of Brunswick and back, daily except Christmas Day. The journey begins with checks for any possible listening devices or bombs.

But the true work begins with the serving of breakfast as the train rumbles across the heavily fortified border. Bacon and eggs are accompanied by toast and marmalade as the waiters cater to the demands of some 80 soldiers and their families.

Lunch of poached fish follows swiftly as the train races towards Brunswick. There, passengers disembark, some rejoining units in West Germany and others out for a stroll around the centre of Brunswick with their children.

Three hours later, the culinary odyssey begins anew as the Berliner pulls away.

Soldiers sip tea and eat custard cream biscuits as the train roars past a repair yard full of Soviet tanks. Unseen eyes outside check that no one raises a camera in their direction.

Dinner is served at 7 p.m. by waiters who offer wines bearing the crest of the Royal Corps of Transport.

Even U.S. and French soldiers, who have their own military trains, credit the British with superior service.